1973 C10 Rear Disk Brake Conversion Proportioning Valve

[c10rick]

I fitted my 73 C10 with after market rear disks and an adjustable proportioning valve?  I gutted the existing proportioning valve and will continue to use it for a brake line distribution manifold.  The driver side end needs to be plugged after the valve is gutted.  This can be accomplished with an 18.5mm drill bit and a 20mm tap and plug, easily available on the internet.

[Irish_Alley]

what are you talking about?

[hdaniels]

I understand what you are talking about. I am thinking of doing the same thing. I plan on installing hydro boost with an adjustable proportion valve at the master cylinder. Can you go into more detail on how you gutted the proportioning valve and made it a manifold?

[VileZambonie]

Why?

[macr0w]

I can say on my 84 the proportioning valve is down at the front of the frame on the passenger side under the radiator.
If I get a new master cylinder with a p valve up at the mc then the old p valve would be redundant and to remove it would require you to bend new lines out to your wheels.
It's probably easier to just gut it and leave it in place.
I'm just trying to think this process through because I am preparing for a brake system upgrade on my truck.
 

[VileZambonie]

This makes zero sense. To get at it in order to gut it you'd have remove it and then reinstall, so what exactly are you gaining? Just replace it while it's out if you need to. Next, if you were to gut it, what now isolates the two channels? You essentially give yourself a single channel braking system by tying all channels back together. I can see if you are replacing all of your lines and say to yourself, boy I'd really like to look at my combination valve rather than it be out of site.