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Transmission upgrade and Drive line Advice

Today at 08:47:58 AM by Jeff86inMS
Views: 7 | Comments: 0

Good morning all,
I have a 1986 stepside custom deluxe C/10 that needs some transmission work done:

I need to chose an option:

Option 1
Rebuild the one we have (TH350)

Option 2
Buy a new one ( same style) that has a longer warranty.

Option 3
Step up to a 4 speed with overdrive (700r4) to get more power out of the new crate 350 engine and provide better gas mileage on both city/highway.

If option 3, I would also need to shorten drive shaft as the transmission is longer, and regear the rear axle to match transmission.
This option would obviously be the most money, but better off in the long run from a drivability and mileage standpoint in my opinion.

Any thoughts? Also what gearing would I need to go to in the rearend? Thanks to any and all the reply/respond! Thanks!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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15s to 18/20s

October 08, 2024, 07:13:36 PM by Warlock13 | Views: 61 | Comments: 0

I just wanted to post because I spent a ton of time looking for information about swapping to 18/20s and I wasn't finding tons of information, so I Hope this helps someone.

I had the 235 75/R15s on my truck which by my old (wrong) excel spread sheet calculated out to 30". I now realize they are 29", but I will get to that.
With the 5/7 drop the fronts would rub at almost full lock and bigger bumps.

I wanted to go to 18/20s because I saw Harrison Customs Trucks, and I really like the rake of them.

So I ordered Riddler 650 18x8 w 4.5 Backspacing, and 20x10 with 5" Backspacing.
My problem was the tires. I was having issues finding tires in the same model that I could get the sizes I wanted.
I ended up on Priority Tires website and founds some Atturo AZ850 that I could get both.
I wanted 245 50/R18 for the front to get me at 28" diameter, and 285 45/R20s for the back. That got me the 30" diameter (wrong) that I wanted, but still had a bigger sidewall than the 50 Aspect Ratio in the front. I was worried a slightly smaller Aspect Ratio in the back with the rake would look dumb.

So as I was mounting them tonight, just got the tires mounted today, I noticed that the backs were indeed taller, but they fill the wheel wells just about the same.
They do make 285 40/R20s, but I don't think it looks bad, it is still a huge improvement over the Stock GMC Rims.

It also got rid of the rub at full lock, and I haven't noticed any rubbing over bumps, but I haven't hit many bigger bumps yet.

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Oil Pressure In A 383 Stroker

September 29, 2024, 08:44:33 PM by Mike81K10
Views: 589 | Comments: 6

What should the oil pressure be in my 383 Stroker? It has a High-volume oil pump installed in it.

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Tuning Help - Running Rich

September 29, 2024, 07:06:39 AM by clutchfoot
Views: 410 | Comments: 4

Hi All,

Long time lurker, first time poster. Love the forum and has helped answer tons of questions I’ve the years. Got my truck about 10 years ago and have worked on/off since

Most recent upgrade was dual Spal fans thanks to help from the forum, I’ll have more questions on finding an ignition source to cut them off (current go off with temp switch) but that’s a topic for another day

I’ve always seemed to run really rich and I’m finally getting around to addressing it.

Detail:
‘85 C-10
Block: 350 SBC bored .060” over
Heads: 487s with 1.60/2.02 Valves
Intake: Holley Street Dominator Dual Plane Intake Manifold
Carb: New Holley Street Avenger 670 CFM 4150 Vacuum Secondaries
Cam: Duration 288/298, Lift .444/.466
Distributor: Street Fire 8362 Vacuum Advance HEI
Spark plugs: R45TS @.035 gap
Timing: Been a while but I recall landing at 14 initial and 36 total
Headers: Flowtech long tubes w/1.5” primaries

Given that info, and that’s it’s running really rich, where is the first place you check?

I was thinking jets but before I mess with the factory carb setup I thought I’d ask, current jets are 65 Primary and 68 Secondary which doesn’t seem wild from what I’ve read.
Floats are set correctly.

Choke has always seemed to work well but might revisit that after some reading

It’s runs pretty well aside from being burn your eyes rich. If I punch it I do get a slight hesitation, my assumption is too much fuel but I really don’t know.

My plugs have about 200 miles on them and are already black and likely fouled.

Appreciate any guidance the group has. Thanks!

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Power/Charging Port Issue:

September 24, 2024, 02:03:03 PM by Walstw01
Views: 912 | Comments: 4

When my boys built my truck, they added an under-dash phone charging port, wired through a switch to the accessory pin in the fuse block. When I plug in my charger and connect it to my phone, it does not charge it. It will charge their phones just fine, but my phone is one of the newer ones that requires the 3-amp charger. I also have an ”Otto the Automatic Wireless Phone Charging Holder” (has sensors to automatically open and close the arms that grip the phone, along with built-in wireless charging). The charging port doesn’t supply enough power to operated the wireless charging phone holder either. I thought there was a possibility of the port they installed being the limiting factor, so I bought one that was rated to 7-amps and replaced the ~~cigarette lighter~~ power port in the ~~ashtray~~ spare change storage bin. Still no luck. Any ideas on what I should look for? Possibility of corrosion in fuse block limiting power? I’m at a loss …

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