1980 K20 4x4

[1980K20]

Working on electrical now. It's straightforward and confusing at the same time. I've got oldair ac, Dakota digital, Flaming river steering column and fob push button start. The safety switch mounting on the column wasn't right, but I plan to put in the position sensor and can use their setup instead.

I've got the harness on the bench, putting all the wires together in the right spots and holding with tape. Then I'll cut wires shorter for length to fit. Will post when I've got it mocked up and then put together.

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[1980K20]

Making progress, but slowly. Working over one week on the dash harness. A bunch of new tools and supplies, so maybe the exterior harness will be faster.

I have a temporary work bench, my cuz built an extra shelf, we put up extra lighting and it rocks now!

Discovered the butt-end connectors with low temperature solder; they rock! See the wiring harness connection picture.

My cuz tried to put in the radio, discovered that the PO had cut the dash to install their radio. Sigh. Some sheet metal will fix it, but need the new bezel to align, which is back ordered and shipped out last night.

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[carmen77]

You are making excellent progress! Good for you!


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[1980K20]

Thanks Carmen!

More good progress the past few days.

Instrument panel and radio are in and verified working. I'll make one small change, the accessory is only on when ignition is on, don't know what I was thinking.

Rfid push button start verified operation. Radio not turning on with accessory threw me off. It's a bit quirky operation, just requires a learning curve.

Ran engine harness, I don't like the corrugated look, so got some other look stuff, but don't like that either, so the harness is just put in place. Will order a weaved loom.

Taking my time with the philosophy that everything I put together will be removed and made better the second time. External connectors get both crimp and solder.

I also decided not to rely on chassis ground. In addition to the chassis grounding strap, I've run a 10 guage grounding wire to a grounded stud  where I also connected everything that needs a ground under the dash. I plan to do something similar for lights.

I'm the pictures, you'll see the dakota digital gear sending unit just hanging from below the dash.

Tomorrow is the day I start her up. Cross your fingers.

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[JohnnyPopper]

Nice work man!

Did you powder coat your frame? Looks like it where you have your grounding post.

If so, I don't know if the finish will insulate the frame from the post...

[1980K20]

Nice work man!

Did you powder coat your frame? Looks like it where you have your grounding post.

If so, I don't know if the finish will insulate the frame from the post...

Thanks Johnny!

Yes, the frame is powder coated. I thought about sanding a little bit off, but the ohm meter reads 0.3 ohms to the transmission, which is multiple hops. Almost everything except directly touching the leads together measure 0.3 ohms. I suppose if the connection is really little, then it couldn't handle larger currents and will get bad. I might have put the dreaded star washer on the other side of the stud. The hole is threaded, I put a nut on the other side with washer before the connectors. I'll definitely sand the frame down where I have the stud at the gas tank. I'll run a clean line there too. Thanks for pointing it out!

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[Shifty]

Nice work man!

[1980K20]

Thanks Shifty!

Today I celebrated the new stereo by playing "Smoke on the Water", made in Japan version, a favorite of mine back in the eta of this truck. Woohoo, it's getting real!

Installed oil sending unit. Rube Goldberg style because things don't fit well.

Ran a stainless vent line from the gas tank to the engine compartment. I don't like gas smell, but sticking with the Holley vent. Will probably put a carbon canister in.

Verified the fuel pump operates like before.

Finished the day with a run to the auto parts store for hose clamps. Tomorrow is the day for a drive down to the dead end and back. A few odds and ends to finish first.

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[1980K20]

Got the truck running in the yard!

Lots of odds and ends.

Questions for you all!

1) my door light switches are too long. Any leads on finding ones with a shorter shank? It binds on the doors (aftermarket).

2) I put the gas vent up in the engine compartment. Seems risky. What do you think? Do I need to put a charcoal canister on it right away before driving for safety? I now have plugs on the unused firewall holes.

I used old boards for my seat. It was said to be something somebody's 7 year old would have built. Lol.

Here's the video.

https://youtu.be/U-HqOu3zwM0

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[Shifty]

Holy cow!  That's more brass than a field of generals!   

As far as the janb switch? I have not a clue, all squares use that same one....maybe move up to 88+, but it'll be metric, as well as a different connector.

At the very least, I'd move the fuel vent to behind the radiator core support, but yeah, I'd do a charcoal cannister, maybe hide it a bit since they are ugly as heck.

[carmen77]

I don’t see anything wrong with the seat….I like it




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[JohnnyPopper]

Looks more stable than a milk crate for sure 

[bd]

The annular sleeve labeled "Too long" in the image is designed to slide through the threaded nut when the door first closes, adjusting the switch plunger to the proper height.

Dependent on ambient temperature, ventilation, and sources of ignition (e.g., water heater, electric motors, open flames, sparks, etc.) when a carbon canister is absent, fuel odor can be obnoxious while flammable vapor accumulation within an enclosed garage can become hazardous.  Each situation is somewhat unique.

All you need to accompany that wood bench is a campfire and flask of Jack...   

[bd]

I should add, make sure the doors are installed and adjusted correctly before installing the new door jamb switches.

[Captkaos]

Are you putting the tank vent under the hood for "water crossing"?