73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: 1967KaiserM715 on August 10, 2015, 07:04:11 PM
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Hi all,
Starting work on my newly acquired(2 months) 1985 GMC K10, not quite sure how the build will go, pretty much stock, maybe a mild 2-3 inch lift(maybe install 3/4 ton suspension), definitely a manual trans, not sure on engine yet, leaning towards a 6.2 diesel, brother has 292 though , but I may stay with stock 305 for now.(yes 305 not 350)
as it sits now, need a little floor work, mainly drivers, but a small patch over body mount on passenger side, clean the frame and paint-will be pulling bed for that, probably front end, but not the cab, more work than I would like at the moment.
I did pick up an SM465 with NP208, and all the manual stuff-my truck currently has/had the 700r4, which doesn't work., plus my brother has an '86 in rough shape that will have anything else I will need for the swap
anyways, I'll try and get pics posted in the next day or so, along with more details on the truck
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Welcome from California
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Thanks!
Some pics
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and some more
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the original color, should be the same as the fcab-Midnight Blue if I remember the code right, I will probably repaint with a dark grey/maroon two tone theme
Gearing is 3.43, has 31 inch tires on it currently. losing overdrive isn't a big deal for me, and is pretty low on the want list(thinking NV4500 at some point, I like the early gearing; better then the NV3500 from the research I have done); this should put me right at 2000RPM for driving at 55MPH with the SM465. One option to lower the RPMs a bit more(especially with a diesel) is some larger tires-no more then 33's, which may require a small lift(no more then the 2-3 previously mentioned)
so right now I will be working on installing the Manual components, and from reading, my current driveshaft should remain the same? coming from a 700R4/NP208 combo to the SM465/NP208 combo.
I'll also pull the motor at some point, I will need to get a flywheel-if I keep the motor-, but I do also need to do manifold gaskets, and possibly the rear main seal while I'm at it - it is leaking just a tiny bit
the bed(the whole thing) appears to have been aftermarket, pretty thin, some of the lines don't match right-very noticeable with an original GMC tailgate I bought after I got the truck. the Tailgate that came with the truck is in the bed, half the weight, and was probably folded in half at some point, it was pretty flimsy, and had some pretty good creases- so I may look for one, but it does function fine for right now
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well, I picked up a 1997 Chevy 6.5 turbo diesel truck. engine runs nice so once I convert it to MFI(mechanical fuel injection) and get a flywheel for it, that will go in the truck.
I have been working on pulling the current engine, grille/radiator support is out. Fenders and hood will be next. will clean frame rails and fix any fuel/brake lines that need attention.
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well been working slowly on it, I'm just gonna get it down to a rolling chassis, blast and paint it, fix the cab floor off the truck(non-structural welding repair)
just need to pull cab bolts, then cab can be pulled off, then the bed will come off. getting all new fuel and brake lines, replacing whatever is necessary in the suspension, rebuild wheel bearings, etc.
this turned more into a project then I wanted, but I'll get what I want in the end. I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow.
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had a nice time with bed bolts, PO used regular carriage bolts, so they spun
welded a nut on top, and used my dad to help get them removed
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/0830151223_zps7q4newik.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/0830151223_zps7q4newik.jpg.html)
and a pic of the front, almost ready for cab removal, only issue is where to put the cab
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/0830151222a_zps9ayj8j8f.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/0830151222a_zps9ayj8j8f.jpg.html)
plastic bag hanging from booster is holding all the wiring, I was going to remove the cab first, but needed to move the truck closer to the welder for the bed bolts
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got bed off, I think my plan is to clean the rear half of the frame, then slide cab back, do bottom of cab and front of frame. this means I won't need to find a spot to put the cab.
Frame is a little flakier then I first thought, but much better then most I have seen
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/0830151616_zpscznhwuzd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/0830151616_zpscznhwuzd.jpg.html)
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rear bumper removed, hitch removed, passenger fuel tank removed, broke straps on drivers, still need to drop it-gets dark too quick now
tomorrow, finish gas tank removal, brake lines removed, fuel lines, finish removing the wire harness. and if I have time, prep cab floor to put new floor in, and too patch the passenger side.
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both tanks removed, wiring removed, working on removing the brake and fuel lines next. found a little bit of rot on the previously replaced inner rocker on the drivers side. but I at least managed to get the next three days off, so I should be able to at least fix the cab floor and blast the frame, paint it in a product called Zero-Rust(like POR-15), my dad has found it to be easier to work with then POR-15, and it lasts pretty good.
more later
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all brake lines and master cylinder out, booster off, power steering pump and box out, all 4 shocks removed(will re-use these, still good, and were purchased in 2012 according to one of the receipts in the truck)
if tomorrow goes well, patch the floor, blast and paint rear of frame. my brother should be dropping of a 1986 GMC C30 I will be scrounging some parts from(hydro-boost, some manual tranny stuff, would like to use that hood rather then mine(dented and poorly welded when the reinforcement plate separated from the top.
as for the front of the frame is the only place to get the steering box reinforcement plates? Would like to do that for peace of mind(4 out of the 6 trucks I looked at had stress cracks or had been previously welded around the steering box)
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done some more work, and also discovered more work.
this is what the floor looks like after pulling the two patch pieces that were riveted in
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/inside%20cab%20floor_zpskyv7ktya.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/inside%20cab%20floor_zpskyv7ktya.jpg.html)
realized that I would need to fix the inner rocker too, so flipped the cab on its back
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20flip_zpseffhjho8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20flip_zpseffhjho8.jpg.html)
pic of the inner rocker
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20blast%205_zpsin4gnpyz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20blast%205_zpsin4gnpyz.jpg.html)
was going to sand blast, but guess the roof was leaking, so luckily no sand in the blaster, just a little water. used the little siphon gun to see just what I was up against though
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20blast%201_zps5xvrkqsl.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20blast%201_zps5xvrkqsl.jpg.html)
this is the drivers cab corner
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20blast%202_zpslpd4fpog.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20blast%202_zpslpd4fpog.jpg.html)
passenger side (side of seat hump)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20blast%203_zpsqid9ybao.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20blast%203_zpsqid9ybao.jpg.html)
passenger inner rocker
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20blast%204_zpscmvhm7ht.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20blast%204_zpscmvhm7ht.jpg.html)
so need new cab corner, inner rocker(outer floor panel) for drivers side, passenger side can just get some patches
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took out floor, combination of plasma torch and air chisel
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/0920151048_zpsnvwkk713.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/0920151048_zpsnvwkk713.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/0920151408_zpspxbccwnd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/0920151408_zpspxbccwnd.jpg.html)
I was planning on just patching the footwell, but the replacement panel looks to replace the whole thing, to out with the plastic to analyze that situation.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/0920151408a_zpst1ovjq9m.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/0920151408a_zpst1ovjq9m.jpg.html)
whats everyone's opinion of putting a hole and using a plug above the cab mounts? so I could periodically oil them real good. yay or nay?
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for the cab mount? I guess if you are so inclined that would be fine but how long was it together prior to now?
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for the cab mount? I guess if you are so inclined that would be fine but how long was it together prior to now?
it could have been original for all I know, but with the lack of rust, I would say this wasn't a northeast truck,-or at least not winter driven- and everything that is rusty now was probably the 5 years the PO drove it. the rears are so far inside the frame rails, I'm not worried about those, but I broke front one, and the other was very difficult to remove. this will be a daily driver, so anything I can address now and modify, hopefully to benefit me at any point down the road, is a plus
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Had to drop cab back down, ended up being way to unsteady to work on.
drilled out kickpanel, test fitted floor and inner rocker.
I had to remove the cab mount brace, I couldn't fit the inner rocker after I put the kick panel in, the way the flange works, It wouldn't go past the brace correctly to sit right.
I also removed the dash, cluster and steering wheel, found a fair bit of sand coming down, so figure better safe then sorry
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Dash%20and%20steering%20removal_zpstwsnagu4.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Dash%20and%20steering%20removal_zpstwsnagu4.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Kick%20Panel_zpsaamsnvnd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Kick%20Panel_zpsaamsnvnd.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Kick%20panel%20compare_zps2tz0f8ln.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Kick%20panel%20compare_zps2tz0f8ln.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Floor%20fitting_zps1msggt8p.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Floor%20fitting_zps1msggt8p.jpg.html)
how important is that extra piece of metal under the floor? the rectangular piece that sits above the cab mount. leaning towards making one, but??maybe not. I assume it helps spread stress from sitting on the mount, which is why I am thinking I should just make one
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They make oem style ones, I want to say there in the 14 to 20 dollar range. The flange on mine had to be reworked a bit but they look factory, a small investment if you plan on keeping it any length of time. Just my opinion, I'm redoing my truck 12 year's later for this very reason I wasn't happy with the work I initially did. Not to say you can't fab them and look ok.
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Re read your post. If you're talking about the flat part that sits on top of both braces just make one. I'm using 16 gauge.
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yeah was talking about that flat plate, was just trying to see if I really needed it so I didn't need to cut into my stock pile of steel, but I'll probably make one anyways, it should put less stress on the floor(which is a little thinner then I like)
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Added structure holds the cab support to the floor support running lengthways together. Helps prevent flex and oil canning.
I did and would use it. It's there for a reason.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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made that(well two) reinforcement plate, 14 gauge, 8x6 inches
used my dad's plasma cutter for the rough shape, grinder to smooth it up, and my home brewed Metal Brake
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Cab%20floor%20plate_zps4sqnvjiv.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Cab%20floor%20plate_zps4sqnvjiv.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20flor%20plate%202_zpssjivlprg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20flor%20plate%202_zpssjivlprg.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20floor%20plate%20preview_zpsouo7cqrl.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20floor%20plate%20preview_zpsouo7cqrl.jpg.html)
the Sheet metal brake, can bend a full 38 inches of 18 gauge, haven't pushed it for anything else yet
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Metal%20Brake_zpszppdqqif.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Metal%20Brake_zpszppdqqif.jpg.html)
if tomorrow is nice, I'll hopefully get floors and cab all welded up
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got plate welded in, should be able to fit cab support in after, seemed like it would work(tried it when it was just clamped.)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1003151535_zpsxtjkj72x.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1003151535_zpsxtjkj72x.jpg.html)
and kick panel 75% in, got a few spot welds to finish up, got cold and windy fast. plus a little darker too.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1003151536a_zpsu8mfefun.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1003151536a_zpsu8mfefun.jpg.html)
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How do you plan to get everything squared up correctly with your sheet metal removed to such extent.?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I took a bunch of measurements before cutting, and everything is still within spec or close enough I can tweak it just a little. You can see a jack under the rocker, had to lift just a little for floor under seat to drop the proper 1/4 inch, of course only thing would be if it was already out of spec from the rust
The outer rocker was solid enough that it helped keep everything square.
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I approve of this build.
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floor partially in, the section under the gas pedal needed some help, so I did what I normally do when I can't form metal close enough to use screws or clamps, start on one end and work my way around, that normally gives me the best fitment as I rework the metal, so far its worked out pretty good, well all except for a section above the reinforcement plate, the curve in the floor wouldn't line up, so I had to majorly rework it, something I didn't see until I drilled out panel for spot welds(about 3/4 of the plate sat flat with the floor, the floor ended up leaving 1/2 inch gap in the upper right, because of were the floor was curved wrong)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1004151237_zps3ijqgk6v.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1004151237_zps3ijqgk6v.jpg.html)
more to come
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Got inner rocker/outer floor section in last night, still need to make a small section to close up the floor-I cut out the minimum amount of rust, and horrible welding I dared, but needless to say need to work some metal.
rocker, and the start of a spacer piece
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Inner%20Rocker_zpsiry23fft.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Inner%20Rocker_zpsiry23fft.jpg.html)
underside view
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/inside%20rocker_zpsqjwyokh4.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/inside%20rocker_zpsqjwyokh4.jpg.html)
Today I took the day off, got cab off frame to start blasting frame
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20off_zpsgtikgsfg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20off_zpsgtikgsfg.jpg.html)
pretty easy with a small loader tractor, picked up rear of cab by hand, stuck a long board under, then lifted the front with the small tractor, set another board under, then rolled frame out
frame 1/2 done, need to do front, and under side-gonna put one side up on blocks to make it easier to get to the under side
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Frame%20blast_zpstbeqklov.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Frame%20blast_zpstbeqklov.jpg.html)
Also playing with color ideas, really like the two tone burgundy/maroon and grey, but the hunter green looks like a good backup color, although maybe just a tad darker green.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Burgandy%20and%20Grey_zpsrktc3byn.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Burgandy%20and%20Grey_zpsrktc3byn.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Green_zpsc7fswwpe.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Green_zpsc7fswwpe.jpg.html)
Ok, look more red on the computer, but it is probably close to the burgundy/maroon interior colors one would see in these trucks
I am going something called Zero-Rust on the frame, it is like POR-15, but I have had loads better results over POR-15. After blasting all I do is spray something called Metal Prep and it prevents flash rust for up to 30 days, it also cleans the metal for paint, so no extra steps for cleaning, just blast a majority of the sand away with air, final vacuum to get remainder, then wash down with Metal Prep solution, wait till it dries, then paint. Easiest way to do a frame ever IMO.
More Later
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There is a bracket/piece of a cross member behind the rear cab mount cross member, does anyone know what it is or for? Mine looks cut, and I would post a pic right now, but my phone can't take small enough photos to upload.
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Kaiser, that plate looks pretty stout it outta help for the thinner China man floor pans you dislike. Are you using the floor brace that ties the inner rocker too the longitudinal brace that runs the length of the floor? Most guys plug weld that plate you made to that along with this brace before they fit/weld in there floor pan.
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Yes using that floor brace, I couldn't get the inner rocker in with it in, so I removed it,
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here is a pic of that unknown bracket, like I said, looks cut, but cleanly. this is right behind the cross member for the rear cab mounts
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1010151425_zpsuisz8r3z.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1010151425_zpsuisz8r3z.jpg.html)
haven't done all that much, media blasting is taking a lot longer with all the nooks and cranny's. I have to look into getting the cross-member between the forward rear spring hangers fixed, rotted through on one side...guess I didn't take any pics of that, have to remember to do that
also picked up a parts 6.2 short block(seized now) and pump and lines, pump is going to be a core, lines if they clean up alright will be used for converting the 6.5 I got to mechanical injection
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I wouldn't weld the rockers and corners in until you the doors or they aren't going to be right.
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I wouldn't weld the rockers and corners in until you the doors or they aren't going to be right.
I didn't remove the outer rocker and based on my measurements hasn't changed any dimension(loss of ...squareness) I also don't think I need to do the whole cab corner, just patch the upper section that was not replaced when someone else did cab corners
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Good. I just spent the day fixing someone else's mistake on a set of cab corners and rockers that didn't line up right.
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haven't touched truck, too much at work, and too wet to media blast. but figured I would post that bad cross memeber.
any ideas on a fix? place to get a good one? thinking of trying to get a hat channel made, then cut and re bend/weld the ends to kind of match the crossmember, but don't know yet
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1012151705a_zpstdzx0dlo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1012151705a_zpstdzx0dlo.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1012151705_zpsbygx3cx9.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1012151705_zpsbygx3cx9.jpg.html)
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so my brothers 86 1 ton may have a good cross member, surprising because the whole truck is a rot box on wheels, I'll be getting that to the house soon to tear into that and pull more manual tranny stuff for the upcoming swap
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pulled the cross-member out of the other truck, some rot, but much better then my current one, so I'll patch it with my original member
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1025151544_zps6jgfagda.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1025151544_zps6jgfagda.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1025151544a_zpsdn4escs6.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1025151544a_zpsdn4escs6.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1025151711_zps7zogmu0u.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1025151711_zps7zogmu0u.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/1025151713_zpszcpvu5tg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/1025151713_zpszcpvu5tg.jpg.html)
its only that one spot, so that marked out section is what I'll cut and patch, overlapping, and plating as needed.
I was very surprised at how good that member was consider the frame had fist sized holes behind the spring hangers, and the under supports were pretty much none existent, and it was still riveted in(which are not fun to remove)
I'll be getting the frame into the garage at some point so I can get it heated, then to paint I will roll outside, then roll back inside, done that plenty of times in the colder weather
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Wow
Makes me glad we paid extra to get a rust free truck from Arizona !
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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got that crossmember patched, and didn't take a picture though. used the blasting cabinet to blast a few of the frame braces, and motor mounts.
got warm enough and sunny enough, so I rolled the frame out and blasted down a coat of Zero-Rust, I'll lay down another coat in a couple days
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/frame%20paint%202_zps2qaz4lli.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/frame%20paint%202_zps2qaz4lli.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/frame%20paint%201_zpsftq2qvxw.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/frame%20paint%201_zpsftq2qvxw.jpg.html)
I used a pressure pot sprayer, works well when trying to get under the frame and all without worrying about the location of the paint container on some of the more conventional guns, paint will dry to a semi gloss black color when dry
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put a second coat on yesterday, took a half-day at work to do that.
tonight was just general wander around, started to look at the trans cross-member, blasted small sections that I felt would be more prone to rust through.
also mocked out a rear shock hanger brace
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/7b997a41-36b3-48a7-a093-a26f83e9342f_zpswyncmker.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/7b997a41-36b3-48a7-a093-a26f83e9342f_zpswyncmker.jpg.html)
thoughts? at least 12 guage to 1/8" steel will be used-about the same thickness as the one at the front. it at least should be better then nothing.
I also plan on fabbing my own steering box brace, can't see spending $150 on that brace(the brace not weld on one), I actually am thinking for of doing more like a bent steel plate and spacers attached to the frame, that doesn't attach to the crossmember, but likely to change as I review my options
waiting on more Zero-Rust to paint crossmembers and any other frame braces. Cab should be getting work done to it soon enough, still need to finish floor side under seat, and patch a small section on the backside of the cab... oh and the passenger floor, can't forget that.
one more thing as I move along, is the brakes, I was planning on getting the Cunifer brake line, 25' of both 1/4" and 3/16", I figured that would be plenty to do the whole truck-it will cost me around $150 for the two rolls. but the stainless pre-bent line is like $225 shipped. is stainless pre-bent really worth the extra $75? I think I will have extra line over to do some fuel lines as well so maybe it would be more like $100 more
I really do like the Cunifer, because it is so easy to work with. either way, I guess they will both probably outlast the truck.
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(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/november%202015%20139_zpserxtvgfd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/november%202015%20139_zpserxtvgfd.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/november%202015%20140_zps1j0f0jj9.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/november%202015%20140_zps1j0f0jj9.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/november%202015%20141_zps49oavd6n.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/november%202015%20141_zps49oavd6n.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/november%202015%20142_zpssw6ps7n4.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/november%202015%20142_zpssw6ps7n4.jpg.html)
doing some small cab finishing work, working around, small patch pieces where the PO didn't cut far enough to get out all the rust, two small patches for the drivers side. one right in the upper door jamb, and one on the floor by the tunnel, where the replacement floor didn't cover it all the way. then two patches on the passenger floor, one over the cab mount, and one on the side of the seat hump, where there are a couple pinholes
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haven't done all that much, slow going, but welded the floor brace/plate for passenger floor in, cut out the rot in the floor(about a 8x10 section above cab mount) patch piece will go in tomorrow. then it should be two more small patches and I will flip the cab on its back to blast the bottom and paint
I'll have to remember to get some pics, been slacking in that department lately
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some pics, had to shorten the cab stand to roll it in the garage-initial height was perfect to get it off the saw horses, but I forgot where I had wanted to move it. so used the cherry picker to pick up the cab, worked OK in the dirt
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Cab%20lift_zpsduj25fvl.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Cab%20lift_zpsduj25fvl.jpg.html)
some pics of the floor brace and patches, the patches will be welded tomorrow, got late and cold, need some oil for the garage furnace
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Floor%20brace_zpse8jrqwkp.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Floor%20brace_zpse8jrqwkp.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/weld%20patch_zpskpgqoiti.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/weld%20patch_zpskpgqoiti.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/bad%20spot_zpsvclonxlq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/bad%20spot_zpsvclonxlq.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/floor%20patch_zpsaq73uqet.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/floor%20patch_zpsaq73uqet.jpg.html)
and bent up a quick shock brace, got to drill a hole and test fit, but I like it so far, much better then nothing
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/shock%20brace%20prototype_zpsptgc9abp.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/shock%20brace%20prototype_zpsptgc9abp.jpg.html)
here is a pic from last week working on the cab corner, used just a patch from the replacement panel, as the only rusted section was from above the previous replacement, I did weld up a couple holes the PO missed welding and just used Filler. I cut it large to make sure I got good metal and the rust hadn't spread
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20corner%20patch_zpstxzekbfu.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20corner%20patch_zpstxzekbfu.jpg.html)
it's not perfect, the PO either used to much heat, or something, the weld line isn't flat but curved in a little. for a daily driver it is acceptable for now, will be trying to use minimal filler so someone may notice if they really look
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Takes a lot of time and patience. Looks really good so far!
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Takes a lot of time and patience. Looks really good so far!
Thanks, you and your daughter are doing great work too. Ill post up an update later. Been doing some engine work, painting a little bit here and there. I am hoping to have the cab done with all patches finished so I can blast and paint the bottom this weekend. I got my engine build going on at dieselplace.com, but I'll make sure to post some pics here too
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
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some pics
small patch to passenger seat hump
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0042_zpsxha50ypc.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0042_zpsxha50ypc.jpg.html)
patch to floor almost all welded-needed more wire, so just have to finish up the inner side
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0045_zpsbgwojvmg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0045_zpsbgwojvmg.jpg.html)
my little paint stand
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0049_zpscdjwgrp4.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0049_zpscdjwgrp4.jpg.html)
but I have to strip and redo all of those pieces. reason being, I was using a difference paint gun, one where I need to thin the Zero-Rust, well, I managed to lay it down too heavy, and because of the nature of the product, it will literally take years to cure right-even with heat applied. it will just be faster to re-strip and paint again-this time taking much longer times between coats and much lighter coats
here is what a light drag of my knife does, pretty much like what happens to normal paint at the tacky stage, but with a hard outer layer
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0050_zpsjmj11q60.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0050_zpsjmj11q60.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0052_zps5l1t1zyx.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0052_zps5l1t1zyx.jpg.html)
I am right to the metal in those pics, I could leave fingernail prints in it after 2 days(sprayed Saturday morning)
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I don't know anything about that product. Is it supposed to get hard? Some of those products stay flexible.
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yeah supposed to get hard, it is a really high solids paint(like 54% or something) and what happens is when one either sprays too thick, or thins too much(I probably did a little of both) is it makes an impermeable layer, that doesn't allow the paint to cure and traps whatever thinner is used underneath. now it will eventually cure, but not for a really long time(some people say as long as six months. it is also really perceptible to lifting when top-coating(within 2-3 hours) with an acetone thinned paint.
i don't think perceptible is the right word...
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susceptible
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susceptible
Thank you. I could not think of it- long day of work
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Are you sure it doesn't require a hardener? I would avoid using that product
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Are you sure it doesn't require a hardener? I would avoid using that product
No hardener, it is really a good product-It was just user error and using new tools. I normally spray with a pressure pot gun, but I didn't want to pull that out for the little bit of spraying I needed to do. And I keep thinking about it-I think I screwed up with the mixture control on the gun I was using-allowing me to spray heavier then I should have.
This is the first time it has happened to me- I used it my VW beetle chassis fine, this frame-my dad uses it at work all the time- and he agrees, that I put it on a little too heavy-probably because I wasn't use too the gun and how it flows with thinner
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Not much done
New Poly motor mounts-used Energy Suspension 1152 big block mounts(much more material for the heavier 6.5 then the small block mounts)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0079_zpsiw8gepao.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0079_zpsiw8gepao.jpg.html)
a new trans mount will be ordered after Christmas-or really after I re strip and repaint the cross-member
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windshield out-
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0088_zpsgwf8ge9i.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0088_zpsgwf8ge9i.jpg.html)
and more rust
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0089_zpszqzz7ndm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0089_zpszqzz7ndm.jpg.html)
drain holes were fine though(I had checked before buying truck-I know what happens when they get plugged) PO used a lot of sealant on both sides of gasket
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0090_zpszspfo9pd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0090_zpszspfo9pd.jpg.html)
tore out rest of wiring harness. cold weather is finally closing in-late, but not too early for me(yet-miss the snowmobiling)
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not much done, rear cross-member in, trans cross-member ready to go in(need more hardware)
used 3/8" bolts in a few of the holes for the rear member(bolts fit snug), but had to ream out a majority for 7/16" bolts. which of course used up the ones I had reserved for the trans member, Oh well.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0096_zpsflqb8qbm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0096_zpsflqb8qbm.jpg.html)
been working a little on the engine, documenting that better at Dieselplace.com. I'll get some pics of that up as I get the exhaust and intake back on.
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Looks good! Sure sucks about the cab rust though.
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yeah, more rust then I thought, but at least going through it now will be better then finding it later
transmission cross-member in, energy suspension mount ordered and on its way
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0099_zpspy9dbow8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0099_zpspy9dbow8.jpg.html)
some more patch work, I had to cut out all the rust, and because the replacement panels weren't big enough I had to fill it in.
this is the rear of the door jam, rear of the seat hump
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0098_zpsy0gbl1xb.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0098_zpsy0gbl1xb.jpg.html)
and this is center hump small section that was left uncovered, for same reason-had to get all of cancer out.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0097_zpskhf9a1ml.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0097_zpskhf9a1ml.jpg.html)
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small update; been doing a little of everything, some work to engine, some to cab.
patch for rear window, didn't finish nor take a pic of the front patch yet,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0117_zpsmwqdkhbu.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0117_zpsmwqdkhbu.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0118_zpsawi1o68y.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0118_zpsawi1o68y.jpg.html)
my horn button had a broken emblem, so I popped the one out of my parts truck, course it separated(plus I was surprised it wasn't all plastic like mine)
but gave it new paint, letting paint dry, going to sand it down for the metal boss around the letters and outer edge, then glue it tomorrow
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0119_zpsju6aojx7.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0119_zpsju6aojx7.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0120_zpslkdnw2ac.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0120_zpslkdnw2ac.jpg.html)
I have also modded the dash for a Boost gauge,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0110_zps5g2nigzw.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0110_zps5g2nigzw.jpg.html)
I also have an EGT gauge, that will go under the boost, next to the light switch
and a pic of the engine...guess I don't have a recent one, but this should do for now
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0103_zpsxmqjokbu.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0103_zpsxmqjokbu.jpg.html)
also mocking up an exhaust, not going to completely weld until it is in the truck, to double check front driveshaft clearance, but that stand gives me better room, plus I don't need to worry about weld splatter getting on the frame
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well that was a failed attempt at fixing that badge, the glue caused the paint to peel, lift and bleed. luckily, it wasn't fully cured yet, and I was able to pull it apart and will retry.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0122_zpskbwv0orx.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0122_zpskbwv0orx.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0123_zpsw3ftp4fz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0123_zpsw3ftp4fz.jpg.html)
the paint was definitely dry, and wasn't lifting before, I tested by scraping my fingernail along the edge, I'll try and find the bottle, but it was some 3-m clear glue, I've used it before when building models; for clear plastic, never really noticed it did this, but then again, never did plastic to metal, nor did I ever have to worry about two different colors.
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haven't done much, but am trying something with the horn badge,
here it is painted(again)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0133_zpsiwp5fful.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0133_zpsiwp5fful.jpg.html)
and here is a test sheet, trying some thick epoxy coating, enviro poxy, pour on.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0134_zps81zn0hbi.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0134_zps81zn0hbi.jpg.html)
it takes 72 hours to dry, this was after a few minutes, I checked on it a few hours later, and it spread a good amount, but remained at least 1/16" thick, so two coats may work for the actual emblem, remains pretty clear, I'm gonna give it a few more days and see how it looks, maybe set it outside in the sun and see what that does.
also made a tube straightener for my brake and fuel lines, works pretty good, just some spare angle iron, and some patio door rollers, 5/16" wide, spaced 1-1/4" apart, and 1/2" from edge, a couple washers and bolts help space it and keep everything in line, I used the vice to maintain pressure, but am thinking maybe longer bolts and some heavy springs
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Tube%20Straightener_zpsbbsfnnhx.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Tube%20Straightener_zpsbbsfnnhx.jpg.html)
Before
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/tube%20before_zpsenasmnqo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/tube%20before_zpsenasmnqo.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Tube%20Staighter_zps5seqvl6g.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Tube%20Staighter_zps5seqvl6g.jpg.html)
After
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/tube%20after_zpsukskiv1l.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/tube%20after_zpsukskiv1l.jpg.html)
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Well for wanting to get the truck on the road by end of March, I certainly haven't been moving too fast. Anyways, pushing forward slowly, got a little more cab work done, two more patches, and then I have some dent pulling I need to do...hate bondo men, backside of the cab, along the back pillar, around the drivers door frame and rear window, looked a little funny, turns out there was at least a 1/4 inch bondo feathered out, covering a few small dents, plus on passenger side, and one major dent on the roof.
I will pull the dents as best as I can, then maybe a skim of bondo, although I will likely not, as the truck will be used so it will get a few dents over the rest of its life, so the less bondo the better, my dad used to lead fill, and he still has most of the supplies, so I may try that is a few locations, lead fill is a much better adhesive then the plastic filler, although it certainly takes a bit of practice to work it.
here is the patch for the front windshield all in, filled in hole as well(wasn't rusted through and rusted from the side I was welding so figured it wouldn't need an actual patch.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20camera%20028_zpshp9zvju7.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20camera%20028_zpshp9zvju7.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20camera%20031_zpst5syosgy.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20camera%20031_zpst5syosgy.jpg.html)
I am also having my brother get a quote for new front springs, 2 inch lift. They are supposed to come with poly bushings, so a big plus. I was just going to do AAL's but given the extra weight of the 6.5 Turbo, and that it sagged a decent amount with just the 305, I figured new springs would be a better solution to the most likely 30 year old springs on it. I will also be getting all new front end parts, alot of the hardware is rusty, at least 1 wheel joint is bad, and there was an alignment issue, slight cupping of the inside of the tires, so figure it had a little too much toe in, although camber could have had an effect, camber normally gives a smoother wear, toe in gives a cupping wear, based on my previous experience.
and some more recent pictures of the engine, I have mostly got the exhaust routed, it will be tack welded, then finalized after I plant it in the truck and make sure the clearances work out. I also made part of the Glow plug harness, working on the drivers side now, looking over all the wiring diagrams I can to get the truck wired as simply as possible, while maintaining a stock appearing system.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0155_zpsacu18zaz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0155_zpsacu18zaz.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0144_zpsdannfn81.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0144_zpsdannfn81.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0145_zpsfsjiuc0n.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0145_zpsfsjiuc0n.jpg.html)
and the Turbo master I made, I do plan on upgrading to a boost referenced wastgate actuator later, but this will get me on the road, and it only cost me less then $5, about $105 cheaper then the mechanical ones that the 6.5 specialists sell
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0142_zpsawpbkurm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0142_zpsawpbkurm.jpg.html)
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Working slowly, lots of examining wiring diagrams, pricing out front end parts, still waiting on a quote for front springs.
done more cab work, removed some more bondo, made a patch for the footwell on passenger side. also took some pics of the doors and fenders I picked up a while back, they are all rust free, although they do have some dents(I can deal with dents, just not the rust on the drivers door I had). the dent that was around the drivers rear pillar was not bad at all, once the 1/4" of bondo was removed, it proved to be rather shallow, much less so then the dents on the roof and passenger side. I will look into fixing it a little farther, but I think a minor skim of bondo will be fine here, just enough to make it look a little smoother if needed
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20079_zpsann8mc5f.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20079_zpsann8mc5f.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20078_zpshrtl3blo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20078_zpshrtl3blo.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20077_zpsn11nwsii.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20077_zpsn11nwsii.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20076_zpskh5qgte8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20076_zpskh5qgte8.jpg.html)
(This is the top of the roof, and will be tricky, looks like something with an edge hit it pretty good)
Guess I didn't get a full shot of the fender, but got the dents I need to work on, I think the dents came from a chain, similiar marks are on the passenger fender, and when I went to pick them up the bet also had similar marks
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20081_zpsodcn6emr.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20081_zpsodcn6emr.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20083_zpstu5uafde.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20083_zpstu5uafde.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20084_zpsjyozloz7.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20084_zpsjyozloz7.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20085_zpsbqlo3hte.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20085_zpsbqlo3hte.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/levi%20iphone%202%20086_zpsjkfng11s.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/levi%20iphone%202%20086_zpsjkfng11s.jpg.html)
I will most likely use the passenger door and fender that were originally on the truck, and keep the others as a spare. the drivers door was pretty much beyond repair, and the drivers fender had some issues(although workable, I just grabbed all the doors and fenders when I went to primarily grab the drivers door.)
I'll keep chugging along, slowly.
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managed to find a glow plug lens, so I cut my bezel and inserted it. I do need to find the light plugs, but this and the oil gauge seem to be the hard things to find.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0171_zpsgb0yjn25.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0171_zpsgb0yjn25.jpg.html)
I can't do much today, the severe swing in temperature caused a lot of condensation, so most everything in the garage has a light coating of "mist", for lack of a better term. I should be hearing from my brother tonight about my quote for the front springs.
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pulled front end, and springs. New springs, 4 leaf, were quoted at $175 a side. so I am leaning towards add a leafs/overload springs, enough to add about 500 lb capacity to the front, which should hold the weight of the diesel better, I'll proceed with pulling the packs apart and inspecting the leafs for any cracks.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20002_zps9sst072w.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20002_zps9sst072w.jpg.html)
I will also commence with pulling the axle apart and getting new parts put on that, definitely new wheel joints, tie rod, drag-link ends, maybe ball joints-see how they feel and look outside of the axle(most likely will replace anyways) also inspect the bearings and maybe(very big maybe) spring for locking hubs and get rid of the auto locs
I will also need to see what i can do about the backing plates, my set have some sheet metal shield attached to caliper bracket, rather then being one thickness all the way around(like every other axle I've seen), and they are pretty rusted(I'll take some better pics later)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20003_zpsol9x7oad.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20003_zpsol9x7oad.jpg.html)
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Got a new power steering pump, engine is about done.
Started tearing into the front axle, needs everything, bearings are shot, pretty sure the auto locks are shot(the outer bearing in the hub was in pieces), upper balljoint is bad, lower seems fine but why risk it. wheel joints shot, and of course the tie rod end is shot(already knew this)
as soon as photo bucket accepts my uploads(it is currently "uploading" my pictures as a lost image) I'll get pics up.
I'll post this pic, maybe it will show up, but my computer ain't showing it to me
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20004_zps6975b5ki.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20004_zps6975b5ki.jpg.html)
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well, lets see if this works, I can see the pictures on Photobucket now
besides being rusty the calipers are in really nice shape, I think the guy had put all new brakes in it, the rears were all new(shoes hardware and drums), but then again as we tear into it I don't know
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20001_zpsbq1hbk4x.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20001_zpsbq1hbk4x.jpg.html)
cap off
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20002_zps3nrulhd0.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20002_zps3nrulhd0.jpg.html)
Hub bearing-no good, race is all busted and is missing 2 balls, outside of the two that were loose
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20004_zpss3ehlvaf.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20004_zpss3ehlvaf.jpg.html)
then here is the auto lock hub assembly. I didn't see how to take it apart at first,, so I then removed the spring. finally figured it out so I put the spring and clip back on
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20003_zpsvr6cmnip.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20003_zpsvr6cmnip.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20005_zps80u8dnvs.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20005_zps80u8dnvs.jpg.html)
this is the clip that hides the wire clip that you need to hold when pulling on the assembly
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20006_zps5uzgopyz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20006_zps5uzgopyz.jpg.html)
here is the clip and the hub partially removed, it is just shitting there,nothing holding it in now
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20007_zps9elo9moe.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20007_zps9elo9moe.jpg.html)
disc/hub is off, this is the outer bearing, inner looks just as bad, mix of fresh and dirty grease,(clean streaks of blue in a mash of dark grease, so I guess it wasn't as clean as it should have been, which probably led to this...that and the nuts were barely hand tight(as in I reached in after removing the circlip and washer and managed to spin it off by hand :o
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20010_zpsbel1w6l7.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20010_zpsbel1w6l7.jpg.html)
small ding on spindle, nowhere near the bearing, so should be fine, little scoring where the bearing sits, hopefully it is fine, I'll get it all cleaned up and make my decision from there
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20012_zps6uhik3vi.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20012_zps6uhik3vi.jpg.html)
next removed the six nuts holding the backing plate one, and in the process managed to completely knock off that guard portion in the front
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20013_zpsiic78i9t.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20013_zpsiic78i9t.jpg.html)
this was the hard part, but I got it off, sprayed it with WD, little heat from propane torch, and using a chisel around the edge. start at about the 7 o'clock position, there is a notch cut out you can start there and give a couple good wacks out, then it started to separate, so I worked my way around with a sharp chisel slowly breaking it apart, adding WD to keep everything wet.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20014_zpssjyzasss.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20014_zpssjyzasss.jpg.html)
knuckle and axle off, ball joints weren't too bad, needed a 6 ft breaker on my dads 3/4 inch drive socket to break nut loos on bottom, used the impact on top. Turn the castle nut upside down and bang away with sledge, popped out with a couple good hits. top joint had wet grease, but had this weird "wear" spot, you could feel it when spinning, and rotating it, it also felt loose when hitting that spot.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20015_zpsb1kisbko.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20axle%20teardown%20015_zpsb1kisbko.jpg.html)
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got front axle all apart, drivers side looked better, bearing stub nuts were definitely torqued(or at least tight), I will be cleaning all the bearings tomorrow make sure there is nothing wrong. Drivers inner bearing may be bad, looks like the outer race got a little hot, and the bearing it self seemed like it had a groove around it, but was hard to tell with the grease.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20003_zpsxoiawj1c.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20003_zpsxoiawj1c.jpg.html)
also got the power steering pump and pulley on. I used the Harbor Freight(think it was the Pittsburgh brand) pulley installer, much better design and quality over the OEM Autozone brand-which I had broke trying to install the old pulley on the old pump, which led to me getting a new pump and pulley
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20002_zpsjgkz9mmk.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20002_zpsjgkz9mmk.jpg.html)
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sand blasted one set of springs and one caliper backing plate, painted them. Using a SEM rust preventive paint, seems alright, couple local guys swear by it.
started cleaning up the axle and knuckles, will finish tomorrow and hopefully paint those as well, as well as the other spring set. Got most of my front suspension stuff in, waiting on a few final packages.
I'll get a few pictures tomorrow, forgot to take a few earlier.
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guess I missed a post about popping the ball joints out, have pictures of one of the and joints, and the knuckles after pressing them out
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20002_zpsajrypx5m.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20002_zpsajrypx5m.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20001_zps50lqd1ri.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20001_zps50lqd1ri.jpg.html)
two joints were dry like above, one was tight, the other getting loose, one was really loose and full of grease(only joint that still had a grease fitting ::) ) last one was fine, but got this far gonna go all the way
forgot to grab a few pics before getting all dressed up to finish sand blasting, and since I went straight to paint, never got any pisc of the sandblasted parts.
but here they are with a few coats of that SEM rust sheild stuff, part number 28104 Black,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20005_zpsga5q9kfj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20005_zpsga5q9kfj.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20006_zpsgkyofq5o.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20006_zpsgkyofq5o.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20007_zpszncqopcz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20007_zpszncqopcz.jpg.html)
I ended up doing a light mist at the end to make it look flat, it is a semi gloss paint, and they do carry a full gloss one(think the part number for that is 28064)
also leaking some oil out of the ends of the axles, when I flipped it to do the bottom, forgot the oil would fill the cavities, I plug it with a large round magnet and o-ring, but I knew that would only be enough to limit the sand getting down the tube,so odd are, I will likely need to strip the ends and repaint, not a huge problem
and here is the Warns and wheel joints the Post Office delivered earlier(at least one auto hub was getting to be toast, plus I guess they unlock in reverse!! :o)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20003_zps3nov0ft3.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20003_zps3nov0ft3.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20004_zpsuef7pigt.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20004_zpsuef7pigt.jpg.html)
my overloads sound like they just showed up, should have my energy suspension bushing as well,
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got a little farther, new ball joints are pressed in, still need to torque to axle, but I kind of want it on the truck before torquing everything down, figured the frame should keep it more stable.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20002_zpsuttrx1lg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20002_zpsuttrx1lg.jpg.html)
and got one spring set done, haven't cleaned up the other side yet(it got dark, and the next few days were windy), hopefully by end of the week the other pack will be done, I should be finally getting the inner bearing race for the passenger hub, so that should pretty much conclude the front end, minus tie rods and draglink
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20001_zpso7mrxhc8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20001_zpso7mrxhc8.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20003_zpst0a0e6gj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20003_zpst0a0e6gj.jpg.html)
I used Rancho's add-a-leaf, gave the spring pack an extra 3/4 to a full inch more free arch over stock, so hopefully with the heavy diesel it won't bottom out all the time, and ride more level
There is a military swap meet over in Milford I will be hitting in the morning, so like today and probably for the rest of the month, most of my time on this truck will only be spent in the afternoon and weekends-this also depends on how fast work picks up, nice weather like this could mean full hours by next week.
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found a few goodies at the swap meet, like new, if not a completely rebuilt waterproof distributor for my M35 gasser, new cargo cover end curtains for same truck, and a few other small items for my M715
anyways, got the other springs, top u-bolt/swaybar plates, and the gas tank supports for the drivers side sandblasted and Partially painted. I have no good way to hold the gas tank supports or springs, so I need to wait for the paint to dry, then flip and do the other side.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/military%20parts%20and%20gmc%20springs%20002_zpswlw5yzsn.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/military%20parts%20and%20gmc%20springs%20002_zpswlw5yzsn.jpg.html)
that's it for today
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passenger spring pack all finished painted and assembled, leaf shackles, and gas tank supports are all painted now as well, waiting for some dry time to install on the frame, then I can mount the axle and start reassembly...forgot, still need to clean and give a quick coat of paint on the axle shafts, but want to pull the u-joints first.
some pics, more updates later
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20007_zpsgnum0xrv.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20007_zpsgnum0xrv.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20006_zpsp2ps8ssp.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20006_zpsp2ps8ssp.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20005_zpsyovj9fua.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20005_zpsyovj9fua.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20004_zps35hnxazh.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/m35%20seat%20and%20GMC%20truck%20004_zps35hnxazh.jpg.html)
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wheel joints removed, pretty bad, this was the best cap-kind of like damp dirt, the rest were more like dry rust colored sand, they look like Duralast bearings-with the red seal, and no other identification marks, I've only gotten like 2 years at best from Duralast/Autozone front end parts, although one of the receipts from this truck I have is an alignment/inspection slip from 2011, so I assume that is when these got put on.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%203_zpsrnkgtup3.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%203_zpsrnkgtup3.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%206_zpsxguclzxa.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%206_zpsxguclzxa.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%208_zpsmab22ftu.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%208_zpsmab22ftu.jpg.html)
passenger side is the red rag, drivers is blue, although I ended up stripping, cleaning, and painting only the drivers for right now.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%202_zpsq0sqdkyi.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%202_zpsq0sqdkyi.jpg.html)
drivers axle-shaft cleaned up and painted,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%205_zpsoq7aihig.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%205_zpsoq7aihig.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%207_zpsfnwtnuwi.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%207_zpsfnwtnuwi.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%209_zpslhevymc6.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%209_zpslhevymc6.jpg.html)
And got the other leaf pack on, everything is about ready to get the axle up and mounted, waiting for a really good day, so I can go ahead and do everything on the front end, spindles, bearings, hubs, seals, torque ball-joints.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/U-joints%204_zpsemhpts9y.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/U-joints%204_zpsemhpts9y.jpg.html)
once everything is all mounted on the front, I plan on dropping the engine, and tranny on the frame, start routing brake and fuel lines. saving rear axle/springs clean up and spring bushings for the rear for later, need the truck on the road by end of the month. Kind of a rush job now, but my daily driver is getting to be more of a money pit then I want to deal with.
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one axle shaft all together, drivers is painted, wheel joint will be pressed in later after the paint dries a little more
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20shafts%20and%20mounted%20004_zpsaohowofs.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20shafts%20and%20mounted%20004_zpsaohowofs.jpg.html)
sorry for the horrible pic, haven't got a good shop camera
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20shafts%20and%20mounted%20002_zps1jh7qvta.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20shafts%20and%20mounted%20002_zps1jh7qvta.jpg.html)
Axle is in, waiting on some nuts to replace the stub nuts, had to go online, none of the local places could source a serrated flange grade 5, in a 3/8-24 fine thread. With any luck they will be in tomorrow, and Saturday I can finish up. once the front is done, the engine and tranny goes in.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20shafts%20and%20mounted%20001_zpshj4almal.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20front%20axle%20shafts%20and%20mounted%20001_zpshj4almal.jpg.html)
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front end except for tie-rods and drag link is DONE!
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20007_zps9hcqyvxg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20007_zps9hcqyvxg.jpg.html)
Passenger
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20008_zpsinfrjpu8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20008_zpsinfrjpu8.jpg.html)
Driver
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20009_zpsvmnelmwh.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20009_zpsvmnelmwh.jpg.html)
little tip for torquing ball-joints and the stud keeps spinning, use a pry bar like such
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20005_zpslwy4kfyb.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20005_zpslwy4kfyb.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20006_zpswspvsso9.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20006_zpswspvsso9.jpg.html)
and a Wrench to verify the stud doesn't keep spinning, right around 50ft-lbs is where the stud is tight enough you can torque to the final without worrying about the stud spinning
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20004_zpszljbovgo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20004_zpszljbovgo.jpg.html)
I also pressure washed the tranny and transfer, for whatever reason, the camera ate the one of the tranny(well both, cause I took one with the tranny on its side, then decided that wasn't good enough so I stood it up), I'll take another of the tranny later, planning on trying the Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and then top-coating with Rustoleum Gloss Sunrise Red(I like red, and I figure it will stand out under the truck, debating on doing diff covers red as well)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20001_zpsta52y6jg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20front%20end%20finish%20and%20transfer%20wash%20001_zpsta52y6jg.jpg.html)
and apparently no pictures of tranny before either, got an ok pic of the inside, but doesn't do it any justice; lets just say it looks nicer on the inside then my brothers sm465, which was driven by an old gentleman who bought the truck new and only put 26,000 on it, first and reverse don't look chipped at all.
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Well, 7 hrs later I got the engine on the frame....
the motor did not want to sit right in the motor mounts, so with help from my dad, we removed one mount from the frame, got the engine bolted to the removed mount, and to the other side, but it took a lot to make the bolt holes to line up-the polyurethane mount, I think, was making it more difficult then it should have.
but here it is resting, the tranny has to go in later, my bell-housing has a crack, so we brought it over to a friend, he'll get it all welded, and back to me tomorrow.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/6.5%20diesel%20on%20frame%20001_zpsrldxllrm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/6.5%20diesel%20on%20frame%20001_zpsrldxllrm.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/6.5%20diesel%20on%20frame%20002_zpskdsqujwa.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/6.5%20diesel%20on%20frame%20002_zpskdsqujwa.jpg.html)
I don't have any pics of the crack, it was almost unnoticeable, so of course the camera couldn't pick it up, but I'll make sure to get a pic of the repair. If it doesn't work well, I do have the parts truck I can steal a hydraulic clutch bell housing from
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Following here as well. :)
I too had a lot of issues getting my 6.5 to sit down in the motor mounts properly. I was using regular sbc mounts in stock location. I could get one side perfect but the other was an inch off. I never got it in all the way but I realized I could move the rubber inside the clamshell and get it close enough I figured I could make it work. (these motor mounts were from 1979, I haven't bought new ones yet.) Knowing you got it in without any mods is reassuring.
Are you using the bell housing where the clutch fork exits on the passenger side?
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using the hydraulic bell housing from 85-91 SM465 Square bodies, so fork is on drivers side. I knew with the passenger side fork/clutch slave cylinder it would either make contact with the front driveshaft, or I would have trouble routing the exhaust. the only issue with using the drivers side clutch slave cylinder is I can't use the 6.5 drivers manifold, I had to use the 6.2 style, which is no big deal.
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picked up front brake parts, and hoses, I am making my own lines with the copper-nickel and stainless fittings, decided to paint the calipers
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20gas%20tank%20and%20brakes%20002_zpsr7wjkrea.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20gas%20tank%20and%20brakes%20002_zpsr7wjkrea.jpg.html)
Started cleaning up one gas tank(almost brand new, sender looks brand new, inside spotless, so definitely seems like a replacement from a few years back(plus the Spectra Premium stamped into it),other tank is in same shape, although I may just run one tank to start off with; just getting the paint off, planning on painting it a silver(although I am seriously considering clear-coat),
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20gas%20tank%20and%20brakes%20003_zpsjo4irkpg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20gas%20tank%20and%20brakes%20003_zpsjo4irkpg.jpg.html)
bell housing is ready, I will pick that up tomorrow
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got the bell-housing back, looks good.
inside
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/bellhousing%20002_zpsd7xl1jph.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/bellhousing%20002_zpsd7xl1jph.jpg.html)
outside
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/bellhousing%20003_zpsi2bj3pv2.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/bellhousing%20003_zpsi2bj3pv2.jpg.html)
worked late today, will try to get down the garage later this evening.
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finished stripping the tank, as best as I could, last night. put a coat of primer and topcoat today, trying Krylon Rust Tough, mainly because it was the only local paint I could get that was zinc rich-something I figured would help with rust repellent on the gas tank
only got the bottom half done(can said 25 square feet, primer barely got the bottom half covered, so will get another can tomorrow, still have about a half can left of the silver left.)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gas%20tank%20%20paint%20004_zpsv9it7edq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gas%20tank%20%20paint%20004_zpsv9it7edq.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gas%20tank%20%20paint%20002_zpszuk5upxc.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gas%20tank%20%20paint%20002_zpszuk5upxc.jpg.html)
and another, trying to show the gloss/reflection of the paint, I was really impressed, I thought it would end up like a dull(reflection wise, not really gloss) looking silver(like 90% of the silver paints I have tried), guess closest thing I can compare to is it is more like a chrome, not quite but really close
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gas%20tank%20%20paint%20003_zpsefuvzzt3.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gas%20tank%20%20paint%20003_zpsefuvzzt3.jpg.html)
had a little issue with Rock Auto, so my flywheel and clutch that should have been in tomorrow, will likely not get here until next Wednesday. But the weekend is supposed to be really nice, so will be doing all the brake and fuel lines
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That is a great looking fuel tank
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Finished gas tank, got the correct diesel strainer, the paint has a few spots that dulled out, I think it was from the surface prep, I used a pretty agressive wire wheel and some heavy grit sand paper, so the dull patches might be from that-still really pleased overall.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20gas%20tank%20001_zpsqtlgknqe.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20gas%20tank%20001_zpsqtlgknqe.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20gas%20tank%20002_zpstwutsvgc.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20gas%20tank%20002_zpstwutsvgc.jpg.html)
And spent half the day drilling out and putting in thread-it/helicoil inserts for the bell-housing splash shield, gave that a quick coat of paint as well. PO drilled out the heads to get splash sheild off and completey screwed it up, all the drill marks were off center, and I knew steel in aluminum is not fun, so I drilled as close to center as possible, working way up from 1/16" to I think 17/64" for the inserts. Using Stainless 1/4-20 bolts, should be a bit better.(inserts were stainless as well)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20gas%20tank%20003_zpszjfddfkr.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20gas%20tank%20003_zpszjfddfkr.jpg.html)
Wow, just realized how terrible that picture is, oh well.
I plan on running some of the brake lines, putting front calipers on, and running fuel lines as well tomorrow
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Great work! I love the attention to details like the heli-coil inserts... That fuel tank looks great too.
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Thanks!
After some lengthy discussion with my dad, contemplating and doing some work to the truck, I have decided its probably best to try and get the Cherokee inspected and registered, that will give me time to get the truck all up to par without rushing and worrying about the small odds and ends. would have been nice to not have to go through the hassle of transferring plates and fees, but it is probably for the best.
Anyways, here is another small update:
Got my supply line routed, with the lift pump-much easier to route everything on the drivers side, as that is how the 6.5 was originally fed, and I don't need to worry about getting by the exhaust and turbo on the passenger side.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20and%206.5%20diesel%20002_zpsqffndp41.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20and%206.5%20diesel%20002_zpsqffndp41.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20and%206.5%20diesel%20001_zpswe3zeknf.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20and%206.5%20diesel%20001_zpswe3zeknf.jpg.html)
I also go the intake, and exhaust manifolds all bolted in and torqued, going to do rear main seal tomorrow(if I get rained out of work), my flywheel should be in as well.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20and%206.5%20diesel%20003_zps8dyncrjr.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20and%206.5%20diesel%20003_zps8dyncrjr.jpg.html)
More Later.
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Attempted to make a rear main seal installer, just for kicks and giggles, that and hopefully it will allow a cleaner install over tapping with a hammer
but here it is, now I just need to test it, probably tomorrow, I'll use a soft punch and hammer and calipers to make sure it seats straight.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20007_zpsh8b5rqrt.jpg) (http://"http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20007_zpsh8b5rqrt.jpg.html")
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20008_zpsgabesxrl.jpg) (http://"http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20008_zpsgabesxrl.jpg.html")
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20006_zpswthhrjjz.jpg) (http://"http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20006_zpswthhrjjz.jpg.html")
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20005_zpsiv0unsoq.jpg) (http://"http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20005_zpsiv0unsoq.jpg.html")
So the installer is a piece of 12 gauge steel, plasma cut to fit inside a 4" PVC end cap(which required minor sanding to fit over the end of the crank), then drilled to match the pilot stud and three crank bolt holes, and drilled in the center for a 5/8" 6 inch long bolt, which was then welded to the plate. the rest is pretty self explanatory, but put seal on crank, put PVC cap over stud, thread down nut, and Ta-Da! seal installed(theoretically)
Anyways some pics, and some more parts; Diamond Eye down pipe, cab mounts(red poly), and my brake proportion valve, my dad got me some Mack truck parts too...nothing fancy though, just some silicone hose for the turbo to intake, and for the oil drain and CDR valve.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20003_zpsayfdxhsg.jpg) (http://"http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20003_zpsayfdxhsg.jpg.html")
Painted trans, just Rustoleum primer so far, going to be Rustoleum sunset red
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20004_zps7pjrba23.jpg) (http://"http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20004_zps7pjrba23.jpg.html")
Oh and my flywheel and clutch came in the other day too, Luk brand, which supposedly requires the matching Luk brand clutch as OEM won't work...but I think that is because it is the replacement for the Dual mass flywheels, so an OEM clutch wouldn't work anyways, and later clutch kits use the wrong throw out bearing, No matter as Luk was the cheapest option, while remaining with very high reviews($267 Shipped flywheel and clutch)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20001_zpsi38zfxuy.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20001_zpsi38zfxuy.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20002_zpstryvqrce.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20diesel%20parts%20002_zpstryvqrce.jpg.html)
More later.
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Great stuff, cant wait to see more :) started from the beginning and couldn't stop reading forward on all of your progress!! awesome work!!
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Thanks!
Got rear main seal in, wicked easy with that install tool, was a couple thousandths off, so a little tapping on the PVC pipe, and got it to within .003" all the way around.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20003_zpsajimk6mi.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20003_zpsajimk6mi.jpg.html)
And made a drain pipe(manual transmission 6.5L came with one, but they appear to be hard to find, and after a local guy fried his clutch after a Fuel filter change, I figured cheap insurance to try and route it away from the clutch.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20004_zpsfdibztav.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20004_zpsfdibztav.jpg.html)
And finally flywheel and clutch installed and torqued.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20005_zps6n5snvp5.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20005_zps6n5snvp5.jpg.html)
Oh, almost forgot, got turbo on yesterday evening, fun job getting it all on, and for future reference drain pipe for turbo would be easier to get into place before turbo...and thinking about it, probably before exhaust too
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20002_zpsdw9ainfx.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20002_zpsdw9ainfx.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20001_zpsepkmjatg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/diesel%20and%20flywheel%20001_zpsepkmjatg.jpg.html)
Transmission install next.
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Transmission and transfer case in, made sure I had enough clearance at driveshaft for exhaust crossover, still thinking about how to route the down-pipe, shooting to get it between the small space between frame engine and cab.
There's a little over 3 inches of clearance, the block of wood is 3.5 inches for visual reference.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20transmisson%20install%20002_zpsu5yeddiz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20transmisson%20install%20002_zpsu5yeddiz.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20transmisson%20install%20004_zpsguzrcbuv.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20transmisson%20install%20004_zpsguzrcbuv.jpg.html)
Had to use the spare driveshaft, the one that came with the truck the slip yoke froze up, and after some hammering it was still stuck pretty good(it moved, but had and not far), not that it really matters which one I use, they are both the same size.
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Looks really good!
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pulled rear axle and springs for sandblasting and painting Saturday/Sunday. Only did one spring pack, the other will get done hopefully before the weekend.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20011_zpswzcrjgdk.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20011_zpswzcrjgdk.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20012_zpsngcvg2on.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20012_zpsngcvg2on.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20013_zpsb5ia2jza.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20013_zpsb5ia2jza.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20014_zpsnuw6gmro.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20014_zpsnuw6gmro.jpg.html)
changed the tires to some spares I had lying around, so I didn't paint my good tires, I was originally going to use the ATV tires, and put the drums on them, but decided since I had the other tires I would just mount them, and it would be easier to move
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20015_zpsszjucbzj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20015_zpsszjucbzj.jpg.html)
popped the rear diff cover to pull axles to do wheel seals and found a few disappointing things
two chipped top and bottom spider gears, side spiders were pretty chewed, chipped ring gear, looks like maybe the pinion has a chip as well. Plus I can't pull the drivers axle out, it felt loose on the spider gear, and the end of the splines looked smashed...I haven't changed the front diff oil yet, so I guess I need to take a quick peek, hopefully(fingers crossed) I won't find anything up front
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20016_zpscsyigpiy.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20016_zpscsyigpiy.jpg.html)
(same pic, no flash)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20017_zpszruteoxm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20017_zpszruteoxm.jpg.html)
some of the marks on the side gears,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20019_zpsuyo7cnvt.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20019_zpsuyo7cnvt.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20020_zpsvaz7sezd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20020_zpsvaz7sezd.jpg.html)
and the chipped ring gear
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20018_zpsdug9otrj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20018_zpsdug9otrj.jpg.html)
more later.
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this post will be a accumulation of everything I did during the week, plus the 1-2 hrs I managed to squeeze in today(oil filter adapter in my jeep was leaking pretty bad, took 5 hrs to do)
but got one spring pack all assembled with some add-a-leafs(Rancho) looks to have added an extra 1.5" to the arch.
Comparison shot, not great, but the general idea is there
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/springs%20001_zpsn7viwvc4.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/springs%20001_zpsn7viwvc4.jpg.html)
drivers side brakes all assembled, before and after
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/springs%20002_zpskvg2gcuu.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/springs%20002_zpskvg2gcuu.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rear%20axle%20and%20brakes%20001_zps2zw1dln5.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rear%20axle%20and%20brakes%20001_zps2zw1dln5.jpg.html)
have this extra piece, no clue as to where it goes?? came with all the spring hardware, but nothing like it came off, or was on the other side? it's roughly an inch long
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rear%20axle%20and%20brakes%20002_zps8uwcrcqc.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rear%20axle%20and%20brakes%20002_zps8uwcrcqc.jpg.html)
in other news, I just got the spider/side gear set(Yukon brand) and just ground down/rounded the edges on the chip on the ring gear, pinion looked fine, and the wipe pattern seems to just miss the chip. Hopefully this should net me a few thousand miles; my dad thinks it should be fine-he is a large truck mechanic, and he says they do the same thing if the wipe pattern misses the chip, he says normally when the spiders or side gears chip and get caught in the ring/pinion, if it doesn't crack the tooth, and it on the outside edge, and outside the wipe, it should last a while.
but anyways, hopefully that fix lasts at least a year or a few thousand miles, that will give me time to get money to either get a locker or find a 14 bolt, stronger rear end.
Tomorrow I plan to sandblast and paint the other spring pack, finish up the passenger side brakes, and assemble the axle, and that will be it for this truck for now, I need to go through my deuce-and-a-half, make sure it is road ready, so I can register it.
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The mystery piece fits in the adjustment hole same as the rubber ones.
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The mystery piece fits in the adjustment hole same as the rubber ones.
Thanks, which brings about another point, my backing plates don't have any adjustment holes, is that normal for some years?
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Yes
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They could have knockouts.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/8c55db90bb246df65f10a0852f496ebd.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/75e07f93614e04e74590e858e173f596.jpg)
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Definitely no knockouts, or even indentations for the slots, I looked after cleaning the backing plate, trying to figure out how to adjust the brakes. I plan on drilling and using my Dremel to make a slot. Thanks again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Tighten them until you can just get the drum on.
Use the brake pedal to seat and center the Shoes in the drum.
Make sure both drums are on before you push the pedal
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Tighten them until you can just get the drum on.
Use the brake pedal to seat and center the Shoes in the drum.
Make sure both drums are on before you push the pedal
if you go this way make sure your drums are smooth and theres no lip to them. they will be hard to install but once on there will be too much slop and you wont be able to remove them easy. i put my drums on my 02 on the lathe to smooth them out
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Well, guess it's been a while, but the rear axle is all together, I put new spider and side gears in, and filed the chip tooth, I checked the wear pattern and it wasn't near the chip, my dad thinks it will work fine, and if/when it does break, I'm putting in some sort of locker/posi unit.
I did the pinion seal, which was not fun, the last 3 or 4 threads got all mangled, had to get a die to clean up the threads, looks like the nuts threads start bunching up at the bottom for whatever reason(so the bottom part of the nut and the outer threads of the pinion), so however it happened I fixed it, it's back together( I went with the factory service manual and measured the torque required to spin the pinion, then when I put the new nut on I added 6 in-lbs per the book.
I have also taken the rear driveshaft, cleaned and painted, new u-joints, started working on the brake lines(axle and springs have been installed for a couple weeks now), hoping to have all the lines on frame side in, in the next few days. I've only managed to find a couple hours a week to work on the truck, between work and trying to keep my only working car running, but every little thing I do, will help me later.
I'll try and get some pics up later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I really got to get better at updating and pictures...
got the brakes 90% done, just need to get cab finished and mounted so I can mount master and finish the last two lines.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20005_zpsewxtuny2.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20005_zpsewxtuny2.jpg.html)
Got one side long, the other short...go figure, also made a bracket extension for rubber hose
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20007_zpsygzee4cc.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20007_zpsygzee4cc.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20008_zpsjnvrunm7.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20008_zpsjnvrunm7.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20009_zpsuy4npjvo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20009_zpsuy4npjvo.jpg.html)
thought I had more pics of the front lines, but guess not, all the lines to proportion/combo valve are in, only the ones to the master will need to be done, used the cunifer line, with stainless fittings
picked up a 3.5" exhaust kit, Flowmaster, got it mocked up, but thinking just going straight out the back, father then out the side...haven't decided, got a piece of flex pipe, plan on solid mounting the exhaust from down pipe, all the way to the transfercase(no need for flex anywhere there) then the flex pipe, and three hangers aft of the transfer, should be fine like that, unless I go out the side, then 4 may be better.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20014_zpsa9uxsaus.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20014_zpsa9uxsaus.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20016_zpskexdjffs.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20016_zpskexdjffs.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20015_zpsklq8vyux.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20015_zpsklq8vyux.jpg.html)
Used the stud gun, pulled a majority of the dents, what little is left over can be skimmed with the tiniest bit of filler. still need to finish foot-well patch on passenger side, finish welding passenger floor, and put the drivers side brace back in(need to flip cab on back to do that)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20023_zpsgijtpwn9.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20023_zpsgijtpwn9.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20024_zpsaxzelbit.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20024_zpsaxzelbit.jpg.html)
(this one is really fuzzy 'cause of the lights, wouldn't focus on the cab corner no matter where I stood)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20025_zpskc2rdwm0.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/rendom%20everything%20truck%20pics%20025_zpskc2rdwm0.jpg.html)
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Got a little more done, I plan on seam sealing the bottom and doing another coat of paint tomorrow.
but last of the repairs,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0384_zpstlfhxqlm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0384_zpstlfhxqlm.jpg.html)
Cut out for the Shifter
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0385_zpswmacl4ti.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0385_zpswmacl4ti.jpg.html)
Outside ready to be sandblasted; only doing the bottom, I will do the topside next weekend, by doing it this way I can pretty much section it off, and overlap as needed with primer. the bottom is getting an ample coat of SEM Rust Sheild Black.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0387_zpsznnpe9ly.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0387_zpsznnpe9ly.jpg.html)
After Blast-I got a majority of the material, wire wheeled a little bit more I couldn't quite get due to the angles, the SEM is supposed to be applicable over any rust, but much of what was left was just factory paint, or the e-coating on the patch panels, both of which got additional sanding and cleaning.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0388_zps3cjpmimh.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0388_zps3cjpmimh.jpg.html)
And a couple coats of SEM, I need to take a paint brush to ensure full coverage in some spots, like in the back of the cab and under the cab supports that are running up and down in the pics. I plan on taking a spray wand(Eastwood internal frame paint comes to mind, but I know there are others) and coating all the internal cavities as well.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0389_zpswdksvxsn.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0389_zpswdksvxsn.jpg.html)
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Seam sealer was applied, and another coat applied-via both air gun and by brush to reach the harder areas the gun couldn't get around, like back of cab, front cab firewall lip and under the floor supports. I'll drop cab back down and do the firewall and interior, then I can put it on the truck to finish, along with doors and fenders.
I don't have the means to lie everything out to paint, so doing it on the truck will get me the best even spray I can do, without laying extra coats down on one panel and making it look different.
I also tore into my front driveshaft, completely rebuilding it, wasn't originally, but then discovered one u-joint on the Cv side was a little loose, and figured everything else was getting done now, why wait. I mean it's only money, so I guess I'll keep working the long hours.
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Done a little work, I have painted the front driveshaft but have yet to throw it together, as I decided to take it easy and do body work over the past few days.
so pics of all the body work, one rust free multiple dents CUCV fender, and the stock passenger side(possible replacement, had a CAPA sticker on it.) the passenger fender had multiple dents in the front, one set would technically be hidden behind the front bumper, but the few others would be noticable.
as for the CUCV military truck fender, several dents, creases, and on the top of the fender some pretty good deformations-(Which are still noticeable, I plan on trying do more later), I also plan on using a CUCV door as well for the drivers side, the original is majorly rusted along the bottom, and also severely dented. and same thing with the fender, it is rust free but has more then its fair share of dents. I plan to completely blast the outside of the door, to get a better idea of the work needed.
Some pics
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20011_zpsccimikyo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20011_zpsccimikyo.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20012_zpsaqv0nrrc.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20012_zpsaqv0nrrc.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20013_zpsr2ox3uaz.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20013_zpsr2ox3uaz.jpg.html)
this is the passenger fender, had a small outward pucker in the metal, so a little heat and a dolly, nice and flat.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20010_zpsz7xusy7a.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20010_zpsz7xusy7a.jpg.html)
most of the before pics of the drivers CUCV fender is hard to see the dents, same with door, all because of the flat CARC paint it has. so I'll try to describe some of the harder to see damage.
forst pic here is of the top side fender, I feel like they strapped the truck down over the fender, the same marks are on the passenger fender, but there is a pretty good pair of dents along the top(over a 1/4" when laying a flat edge across front to back of fender(which is supposed to be slighlty curved as well.) and as a result it bulges out the side as well.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20014_zpsm88nbwq0.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20014_zpsm88nbwq0.jpg.html)
pretty good crease, unfortunately I tried as best I could, but couldn't fully remove.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20015_zpspwnvby1k.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20015_zpspwnvby1k.jpg.html)
this pic has three areas, as shown by the sharpie lines,(FYI it looks like a big crease in the middle, but it is a grey camo paint going across) the one up by the body line is a two part dent, bulged out on the upper side, dented below. and one dent along the wheel well crease(really easy to pull out)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20016_zpso1ntrll1.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20016_zpso1ntrll1.jpg.html)
and finally some work done
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20017_zpsigdf8et5.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20017_zpsigdf8et5.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20018_zpszjbuocw7.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20018_zpszjbuocw7.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20019_zpsrbelbeef.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20019_zpsrbelbeef.jpg.html)
hard to see because of the light, but the wheel well line came out good
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20020_zpspi6ypria.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20020_zpspi6ypria.jpg.html)
best I could do, it almost looked like someone hit it with a axe, it was dented so far in
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20021_zps3jpxjnrs.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20021_zps3jpxjnrs.jpg.html)
little bit done here, most of the bulge is out, next stepp was to try and pull the upper part, and then attack some more of the lower bulge
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20022_zpskjsmmcib.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20022_zpskjsmmcib.jpg.html)
here you can see I pulled the dents a little more, and pounded the bulge in a little more, still not great, the "smiley faces" indicate where I need to try pulling a little more.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20023_zpsblvkqvag.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20023_zpsblvkqvag.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20024_zpshvddadgd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20024_zpshvddadgd.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20025_zpslcr4q7n1.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20025_zpslcr4q7n1.jpg.html)
and the door, lots of dents, along both sides up and down, one long crease across under the body line, and several dents under the window, two are where the handle and mirror mount.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20027_zpsotglywet.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20027_zpsotglywet.jpg.html)
and does anyone know what went here? looks all torn up.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20026_zpspuuhewg6.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20rebuild%20body%20work%20026_zpspuuhewg6.jpg.html)
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whats the technique with the heat and dolly? looks good.
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so heat expands metal, also makes it soft, so any dents that are formed convex(bend outwards) with a little heat, will expand, and as it cools will actually pull the dent flat, a dolly makes it easier for the stubborn ones to go flat. I also use a combination of heat, hammer, and ice water to make the metal do work, essentially the cold water will make the metal contract faster and also makes for a stronger surface(can use to fix oil canning, or even prevent it) which I did on the roof of the cab, it had a major dent, I managed to pull, put it oil canned pretty bad(popped in and out relatively easy) so a little localized heat and a cold rag cause the metal to shrink and regain its structure it lost when it was dented.
body shops will use dry ice to pop hail dents in newer cars(really thin metal) not sure how well that would work on the thicker metal of older cars, but the principle and concept are pretty close to the same.
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ive seen heat used on hail dents just never on actual "dents" i might try it next time im fixing one of those door skins that should really be replaced. stretched metal on these newer cars loves to oil can
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Slow progress, still working the dents out of the door, will probably have to skim coat the whole door to make it smooth.
Got a few other odds and ends buttoned up, front driveshaft, working on finalizing my paint color(s) undecided if I want two tone or solid.
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Thinking solid color, some sort of a deep red-backup color will be a sort of dark hunter green if the red is too expensive(out of budget...of which I have already passed...twice)
Saw a real nice truck in town the other day in the exact color I want-I'll see if I can post it through Tapatalk-otherwise I'll try later to post it.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160810/f0486af4e464dc1b767aa0c127a69037.jpg)
I have tried to remove the dents and creases in the door-but I am at the limit of my body skills, and I still have a few stubborn dents and creases(it looked like they took a 2 ft x 2 ft steel box and ran it into the door). So ultimately I will have to break down and skim coat the door In Filler.
I am also working on finishing up steering, have to see if I can't fabricate my own brace for the steering box, or if I have to break the bank and buy the kit.
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playing with some paint-Dark Jade Semi-metallic. it was getting dark-so pics aren't great, nor could I get a good view of the color, on my down to the barn to look at it in the sun and get some more work done. this is the same as Mack Green, just with metallic flakes-my dad had some left over on a job at work, so rather then throw out an almost full quart he brought it home.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/weare%20and%20truck%20paint%20021_zpskue9fd22.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/weare%20and%20truck%20paint%20021_zpskue9fd22.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/weare%20and%20truck%20paint%20023_zpss5hyvvdr.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/weare%20and%20truck%20paint%20023_zpss5hyvvdr.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/weare%20and%20truck%20paint%20020_zpsbqet50dl.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/weare%20and%20truck%20paint%20020_zpsbqet50dl.jpg.html)
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And 2 in the sun, different angles-the previous pictures were taken at dusk and the paint was still tacky. Paint is dry now(not fully cured-needs 24 hours, but it is hard and dry)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/00172d5db38bd9b73bedb56f4529fcde.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/bc8461d0ea5c440768e094a5c1db155f.jpg)
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Nice color, I like it.
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Nice color, I like it.
Thanks, still undecided on if I like the metallic, think I'm gonna get an aerosol can made up in GM Dark/Woodland Green, and spray half the tailgate, so I can see them side by side, and then I'll decide.
Painted the firewall, it will get a second coat later to make sure I got full coverage. I just brushed it on, as it is a low visual area- I don't plan on running a clear window in the hood to show off the engine bay. There was also no rust, so after scraping and wire wheeling most of the tar off, I sanded with 80 grit. I'm thinking maybe I'll do the whole engine bay black-so underside of hood and back of fenders; would make it easier to paint them if I do that; and it will save me some money.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/109470f2fcfbfd8e0c8ef0dbd26d72f1.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/4d5ffbac7658c32ee1d40af4d00435eb.jpg)
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I painted my entire engine compartment and under side of hood all with semi gloss black engine enamel the first time I had the engine out.
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Nice color, I like it.
Thanks, still undecided on if I like the metallic, think I'm gonna get an aerosol can made up in GM Dark/Woodland Green, and spray half the tailgate, so I can see them side by side, and then I'll decide.
Painted the firewall, it will get a second coat later to make sure I got full coverage. I just brushed it on, as it is a low visual area- I don't plan on running a clear window in the hood to show off the engine bay. There was also no rust, so after scraping and wire wheeling most of the tar off, I sanded with 80 grit. I'm thinking maybe I'll do the whole engine bay black-so underside of hood and back of fenders; would make it easier to paint them if I do that; and it will save me some money.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/109470f2fcfbfd8e0c8ef0dbd26d72f1.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/4d5ffbac7658c32ee1d40af4d00435eb.jpg)
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I like the metallic green. Gives it a dressed up look you dont get with the plain Jane color.
Sent from my SM-P605V using Tapatalk
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Been a week or so, but here is a picture of 1985 GM Woodland green(it is slightly darker, more of a brown hue to it then earlier or later Woodland greens). This is really just for show, I think the Dark Jade metallic is the color I will end up using.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20001_zpsfjn9m33s.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20001_zpsfjn9m33s.jpg.html)
I also got the drivers gas tank brackets painted up, with 2 new straps(also painted, as they come uncoated) I used some stainless nuts and bolts to hold them on, although the heads are a little high, they were better then actual hex heads, but may still require some grinding so they don't wear a hole in the gas tank. I am using bicycle tire tubes as an anti squeak pad, as that was one of the recommended materials instead of the tar paper/material strips normally used.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20003_zps8rmokf83.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20003_zps8rmokf83.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20005_zpsl1swgbiq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20005_zpsl1swgbiq.jpg.html)
and some of the gas tank, a before paint, but after some scraping/sanding/wire wheeling,
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20004_zps7wngwwb3.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20004_zps7wngwwb3.jpg.html)
And an after shot of a half painted tank, the other half(bottom) will get sprayed tomorrow, I need the top to dry a bit more, and this is also because I had no good way to hold it to paint it all at once. I am using VHT Silver, I'll see how much better this holds up against the Krylon I used on the other side(which I was not an overly huge fan of the way it came out.)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20008_zpsclzjfeog.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20008_zpsclzjfeog.jpg.html)
and finally two pics of a beige/light tan/cream painted dash-pad against the Dark Jade metallic-which I think is the color I will use, after walking by the gate for a week, the metallic has sort of grown on me, although I may see if they can mix it with slightly less flake.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20007_zpsvbnhsxce.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20007_zpsvbnhsxce.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20006_zpsilpp20ah.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20and%20paint%20006_zpsilpp20ah.jpg.html)
more later, still lots to do.
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Dark jade metallic for sure. If it was me, I'd go for either a darker cream color or a light shade of tan brown. In the pic, the dash pad looks too much like white and not much like cream to me. Just my opinion tho.
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Dark jade metallic for sure. If it was me, I'd go for either a darker cream color or a light shade of tan brown. In the pic, the dash pad looks too much like white and not much like cream to me. Just my opinion tho.
Funny you say that it looks white, because it looks like a bright yellow, almost like a John Deere on my computer.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
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That's weird.
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I lied about the yellow...not really, but it turns out the cable went bad for the monitor, didn't notice it until later, when it went completely and everything was yellow.
anyways, it is I believe a Dupont brand aerosal paint? NO it was Dupli-color, I remember now, it was a desert tan, definitely lighter in color then the cap(I even sprayed over a chocolate brown, dark saddle color dash.) I do like it with the trim, but am not sure with the green---color matching is not my forte.
got the bottom of the gas tank painted, working on how to route the wiring on the frame, I would like to get the rear light and fuel transfer switch harness hooked up before the cab gets put on.
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Body Work.....don't think I need to say anything else. And as such only have one pic, hopefully more before full prime and paint.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160905/cb94faa120f693bb45b22abb83f5d4e0.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160905/b6e2fb70c0d001a8d09277e2d2720a92.jpg)
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About 18 hours this weekend and I got the door done and some of the fenders, also stripped the passenger door one dent smack dab in the middle along the body line.
Tomorrow I will primer the door, and see if I need to get some high build as well, I blocked that door for a while still looks like it has a few low spots, I'm not looking for perfection, the truck will be a daily, but getting the majority of dents smoothed out.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/f9113e9fea37cf2740a7165b0accd8ed.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/92deadceaf4f03c55170b0fbb803d2a8.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/2159866db5526f773cdb9af3697a4338.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/73abada0eed5ff678491d388e4bf145c.jpg)
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Stared at it the last few days, was sick most of last week so got nothing done. Trying to do something productive I pulled the rubber from the body mounts out of the cups, I now only have what appears to be 4 usable cups and washers, and 3 bolts. The bolts are easy to get but I need to find some of the lower washers, these are proving to be harder to find then the upper cups.
Any ideas on where to find them besides the unmentionable?
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Slow work on body panels. Also working on steering box brace, and cleaning up the better body mount cups. Using rust oleum rust dissolver-leftover from another project, supposed to be reusable; and so far is working pretty well.
Got a side by side, they looked identical before the dip in the solution for about 2 hrs. Have a much heavier rusted cup I am leaving in overnight, if it too long I will know, and I can just order another cup, as I know I need 2 more.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/99e461bae2c8a09be5dab01114ff23cd.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/a0edcbd42918d7c7adbd6a133acb901d.jpg)
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And more Body work, getting there, the CUCV door and Fender were the worst, and although I pulled a majority of the dents, the few stubborn ones were also in the worse location, still need to fill a little more in some areas.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20body%20work%20001_zps2kmowhrt.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20body%20work%20001_zps2kmowhrt.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20body%20work%20002_zpsnqvrqu3q.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20body%20work%20002_zpsnqvrqu3q.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20body%20work%20003_zpserlrxysm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20body%20work%20003_zpserlrxysm.jpg.html)
painted the oil cooler, need to get some lines for it. truthfully it doesn't look that much different, only a few small areas were starting to oxidize or rust.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20body%20work%20004_zpsmtuqdcdp.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20body%20work%20004_zpsmtuqdcdp.jpg.html)
and two body mounts ready for the cab, all four are done, only put 2 together for a picture. I do need 2 more cups and 2 washers for the radiator support, they were beyond help.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20body%20work%20005_zpsqshqgri9.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20body%20work%20005_zpsqshqgri9.jpg.html)
and finally what I need to do to the bumper. it looks like it was for a 90's chevy, 36 wide VS. the 34 of our trucks. so I took the old bumper and grabbed the brackets, and now all I need to do is cut off the current brackets and install the other ones.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20body%20work%20006_zpspp4c4icl.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20body%20work%20006_zpspp4c4icl.jpg.html)
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Little more sanding, and filling...and so on and so forth.
And while I wait for the filler to dry enough for sanding/filing I do other small projects.
Tonight I managed to get a plate made up and mounted to the bezel to house my tachometer, and EGT gauge. I eventually plan to do a fuel pressure gauge too, as loss of fuel pressure could mean several things, but most importantly having proper fuel pressure reduces wear on the injection pump.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20002_zpsco97hjio.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20002_zpsco97hjio.jpg.html)
The black rectangle needs to be cut out, and then my Auber EGT gauge can go there. The panel itself is held to the bezel by three screws, I cut the cubby off so the gauges would fit.
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It keeps looking better. We had to replace all the body mount cups on Bedazzled. I'm looking forward to seeing the gauges mounted.
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EGT gauge in, and pulled the frame out into the sun. Hoping to have exhaust welded and cab sitting on frame by Sunday night, I plan to do all the body work while it's on the frame, plus it'll be nice to not have to worry about scratching the paint dropping the cab on after the fact.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160923/189cd17269e205a1280fedcd7fd920cd.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160923/501cc61ed8d90394bcab31eff0e1e589.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It all looks nice, it really does. BUT, your tach is upside-down.
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Yeah, noticed the tach was upside down later, but I only threw it back on for the picture.
Exhaust is all tacked up, need 1 more hanger, maybe 2, and 2 clamps-I'm going to leave the muffler removable, AND when I pull the exhaust to fully weld I will be installing a V-Band clamp on the down pipe for easier removal later if needed. I don't really want to have to remove the exhaust in the near future, but you never know.
Couple before, and then a couple tacked, it was threatening to rain so I had to hurry up near the end to get it covered again.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20006_zpsn8rgpxzy.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20006_zpsn8rgpxzy.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20007_zpswz5nd9sd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20007_zpswz5nd9sd.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20008_zpsovkzec97.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20008_zpsovkzec97.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20009_zpslt5bwqdm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20009_zpslt5bwqdm.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20011_zpsmnwjkwcd.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20011_zpsmnwjkwcd.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20012_zpsazdrlhlg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20012_zpsazdrlhlg.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20013_zpsbvlzidqq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20013_zpsbvlzidqq.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20014_zps9hs85uys.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20014_zps9hs85uys.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20exhaust%20010_zpssvp3fvha.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20exhaust%20010_zpssvp3fvha.jpg.html)
That's all for now.
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Got it. What size pipe are you using and what muffler? I like that your using a flex pipe, those are good to help reduce vibration and allow flexing as needed. It looks good.
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Thanks.
3" to the muffler, then 3.5" the rest of the way. Muffler is a dynomax, 17224 ultra-flow welded round.
Definitely figured the flex was required, everything fit nice, but definitely wanted to reduce the risk of cracks forming in the down pipe, it really should be a part of every exhaust system, it's a lot of weight hanging out there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yes it is. Cool cool. It looked to me like 3 or 4 inch but I wasn't sure. I wish I had put a diesel in my truck, spark plugs are over rated lol.
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got a little more done, finally pulled the old tie-rods, and cleaned and painted the long connecting tube, and got a new steering dampener in, the old one left a nice huge puddle of oil on the floor of the garage one day-just seemingly random, it weren't doing nothing but sitting on the shelf...and apparently didn't take a picture of that.
also crossover is all done, 3 inch clearance to driveshaft, hopefully that is enough, if not I'll lift the truck with some zero-rates or new springs, I don't think I can wrap that crossover any other way to get across. And I put the V-band clamp in, tomorrow morning I'll finish welding up the rest of the exhaust, no one had any exhaust hangers left in stock(the ones like I have, much better then the simple rubber hangers you get at Autozone and such) so Monday I can put in 2 more, also need to order some band clamps, getting the good ones that have an offset that work on slip fit joints, rather then the ones that work better on butt joints.
The pipe is 3" OD, just barely touches the crossover, but enough to hold it there for a picture.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20diesel%20002_zpssnoervfq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20diesel%20002_zpssnoervfq.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20diesel%20003_zpsowwfky4m.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20diesel%20003_zpsowwfky4m.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20diesel%20004_zpslyq7fu12.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20diesel%20004_zpslyq7fu12.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20diesel%20005_zpsy5ky5nq2.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20diesel%20005_zpsy5ky5nq2.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20diesel%20007_zpsasynvgo3.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20diesel%20007_zpsasynvgo3.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20diesel%20006_zpstf01vatb.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20diesel%20006_zpstf01vatb.jpg.html)
And again, forgot to get a pic of the crossover on the truck. Not that it really looks any different, it was just sand-blasted and painted with VHT high temp.
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The Cab is ON!! Everything fit with no issues, which was nice, little planning can go a long way. Amost thought I had to move the fuel pump, but once we bolted the cab down, there was plenty of clearance.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20003_zpsiuirjcqh.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20003_zpsiuirjcqh.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20002_zpsp3vtty7m.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20002_zpsp3vtty7m.jpg.html)
the down-pipe is Tight, but it does clear, I may need to bend the heat shield just a tab to get some more clearance.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20004_zpsp191dea9.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20004_zpsp191dea9.jpg.html)
Fuel lines are close on drivers, but have plenty past the lip, so may just need another clamp to pull then closer to the motor.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20truck%20006_zpsptooxysn.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20truck%20006_zpsptooxysn.jpg.html)
also welded some more of the exhaust, ran out of gas, need to figure out how to get it filled during the week, I also got 1 crossover line for the drivers tank done, I need to get a section of 3/8" line to finish up, I got a length of 1/4" and 5/16" on Saturday, forgetting I had 5/16" and needed 3/8"
It's finally starting to look like a truck again!
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Little updates, still doing body work, and while waiting for filler to dry, and on colder nights when I don't want to turn on heat, or have a lot of time, I've been doing other odds and ends.
I got one rear shock support done, using that as a template I can now do the other side. I have also been working on the steering box brace, got that all done, a little cleanup on the edges, then some paint that will be done. And I painted the core support, once it dries for a day, and I finish up the box brace; it will go on the truck.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Steering%20Box%20Brace%202_zpsghcme0on.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Steering%20Box%20Brace%202_zpsghcme0on.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Steering%20Box%20Brace%201_zpsiosplogn.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Steering%20Box%20Brace%201_zpsiosplogn.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Core%20Support_zpsbrxi8lis.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Core%20Support_zpsbrxi8lis.jpg.html)
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Looking great!
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Thanks!
Little more done, the area under the cab window is taking a bit of filler because it was pretty wavy, the front of the bed had hit it pretty good, and I could only pull it so well.
Core support is in place, steering brace is painted and installed, working on cleaning up and painting the headlight buckets.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/ad02e1094f6bb41488ee88fdedae919c.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/081c888d1c52685fc4b4377c405c1c3f.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/073256fb0b21b8ed1b10096c47662559.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/8e3f00bcfb6f2a4be1e7873e96edf3ff.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Body work is done, or rather done enough, not going for perfection, some of the smaller dents will be staying.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161022/e777ff9b3b1e2ae09a4ea2f768b776cc.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161022/6a1a09275f7e8a48cd4a22e6d95eb5ce.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161022/9f98faf56edd35446fea66569ae7332b.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Does Momma know you used her tablecloth? ;D
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Does Momma know you used her tablecloth? ;D
She's gonna be pissed haha.
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Does Momma know you used her tablecloth? ;D
She's gonna be pissed haha.
She gave it to me as a drop cloth; the mice had got to it at some point, so she had been using it as a cover for plants in the frost season.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Does Momma know you used her tablecloth? ;D
She's gonna be pissed haha.
She gave it to me as a drop cloth; the mice had got to it at some point, so she had been using it as a cover for plants in the frost season.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Then it's fair game! Lol
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I have been slowly sanding, prepping for primer and paint, still a few sanding scratches here and there I need to try and remove, the drivers fender and door are the worst, that CARC paint is bad enough to strip, trying to get it smoother for paint is even worse. I may just end up calling it good on those two, and hope by giving the first coat of primer a "fuzz top"(it's what my dad called it when you lay it on dry, then let it set a couple minutes before putting the first coat on) it is supposed to help hide some scratches and other imperfections in the base.
Now I was all lined up to paint this weekend at my dads work, but I guess someone tore apart a truck and now can't get parts?, so unless Friday goes good, I may not be able to paint till next weekend. But I got the paint, single stage metallic, I guess it's actually a Ford green....but I do know the Mack trucks used it in the late 40's and early 50's. My brother also got inner fenders through his work, $60 a side, really only needed drivers, but may use both, and I'll give my brother the good inner fender I had.
Anyways here is a paint pic, so ready to spray and get the truck done, but a little patient can go a long way.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/b59cd650a4cd0d99e7041714a539c38e.jpg)
Guess I need to start thinking about getting weather stripping too...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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...well got it to the paint booth, all masked off, staging setup for fenders...put on the primer.
That is where things took a turn, almost ALL of the panels have some sort or run or drip. So either my gun wasn't set up right, although it did seem fine, pattern was good. shop temp was around 65. the cab isn't as bad as everything else, and that was done first. So...don't know, going to look at it tomorrow and figure out a game plan.
I was originally set up to do prime, then straight to paint; obviously I can't let the runs go, so I pretty much have to start at square one, and sand, do another layer of prime, hopefully just a really thin layer to cover any spots I may have sanded through. That also means trying to figure out where I went wrong, if it was gun or user. I will admit this is the first time I have used this type of primer, Nason epoxy/sealer, bunch of locals and the paint stores recommended the epoxy as a one coat, then topcoat kind of primer, great for going over bare metal, fill and sanded OEM finishes.
I will post pictures later, been too long of a day.
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some pics from yesterday, loaded up early, then to the shop, and setup, masking, primer by 6, then realized the primer was running.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20165_zpsf9fm1hkv.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20165_zpsf9fm1hkv.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20173_zpstzjrnvc2.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20173_zpstzjrnvc2.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20181_zpswq9blk8b.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20181_zpswq9blk8b.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20182_zpstxwrureq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20182_zpstxwrureq.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20185_zpsevyaoiu8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20185_zpsevyaoiu8.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20187_zpsbd1rerpx.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20187_zpsbd1rerpx.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20190_zpsst070lcj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/harrison%20and%20levy%20truck%20paint%20190_zpsst070lcj.jpg.html)
And then today, focused on the cab, and interior, little of the hood, got paint on inside, looks good, couple light areas, and a couple runs, but everything will be hidden in those areas, so that is fine.
Seam Sealer on the patches.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20interior%20paint%20001_zpsjvm2lmln.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20interior%20paint%20001_zpsjvm2lmln.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20interior%20paint%20002_zps0ovirxgm.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20interior%20paint%20002_zps0ovirxgm.jpg.html)
Flash on camera is playing, it looks a little more even then it looks in the picture.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20interior%20paint%20005_zpsinvgjn4d.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20interior%20paint%20005_zpsinvgjn4d.jpg.html)
This one is more true to the color.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20interior%20paint%20006_zpslrrw2qsn.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20interior%20paint%20006_zpslrrw2qsn.jpg.html)
and this one is much darker
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20interior%20paint%20007_zpscidvjohq.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20interior%20paint%20007_zpscidvjohq.jpg.html)
and the back of one fender, just to use up the paint, otherwise I would have done both inside of the fenders.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/cab%20interior%20paint%20008_zpsi2hzffdx.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/cab%20interior%20paint%20008_zpsi2hzffdx.jpg.html)
Tomorrow evening I will continue sanding and working on the doors and fenders, then another coat of primer-most likely Tuesday, Wednesday paint.(I think the fluid was too high for the speed I was moving, plus it may have been a little cold, due to the way the shop is set up.)
Oh, fun little tidbit from yesterday...well not fun, but I had to remove the fenders on the trailer to load the truck; because I didn't have the blocking to go over the fenders, because the truck is 1 inch wider-rim to rim, not edge of tire, which is more. I think I borrowed the bosses trailer when I initially picked it up. that trailer is 4 inches wider between the fenders, but has less mounting points to strap.
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Well, round 2, primer is on, two small sags on the fenders, gonna fix them tomorrow morning, then paint. Fluid needed to be turned way down on the gun.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/e9cc5f85a7b2f3174f3db5c014109182.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/69b8c6cbe9da42c3d73e43dceb088d57.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/46326bd883a7174247eeba42c12383aa.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/865f2f144169f75c8d8c760ee2103d1e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/6004ac20d026832a70c643d6bc640757.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well, case in point, that primer is really thin, had to turn up the gun to spray the paint. Fixed the two small runs on the fenders, then tacked and cleaned for paint. Two light coats, followed by a wet coat. Had several issues, one was the staging, just got in the way a few times, so one fender has some runs. then a small spot on the cab by rear of door jam-most likely an overlap of paint when spraying the jamb. same with the passenger door, positive I messed up cause I hit the frame of the truck as I was spraying, the last door...was probably rushing, I just overlapped too much and was too close...this wasn't really my first time painting, but it was my first time doing a whole vehicle. I knew it the second I was almost done with the last door It was gonna be bad, probably got a little too excited I was pretty much done. So here are some pics, need to decide how to fix everything, fender shouldn't be too bad, but the doors are another story.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20004_zpsv2cj0van.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20004_zpsv2cj0van.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20002_zpsg7pzeeuw.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20002_zpsg7pzeeuw.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20003_zpsb2xcnrlj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20003_zpsb2xcnrlj.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20001_zpsqt5bhxbl.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20001_zpsqt5bhxbl.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20005_zpsv2c8hg89.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20005_zpsv2c8hg89.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20006_zpse1jsa96a.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20006_zpse1jsa96a.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/gmc%20paint%20007_zpsmlleieil.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/gmc%20paint%20007_zpsmlleieil.jpg.html)
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Loaded truck up and brought it home, fenders and doors really just need a good scuff and a couple extra coats of paint, maybe by next weekend.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/b53ff2d96df056712dedd1a515f486fc.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/bae846ceb8cea94c9e27d4a061da36fc.jpg)
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Wet sand the whole thing and shoot it again
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Probably should, really thought about it. BUT ultimately the decision was to just redo the doors and fenders, money being the biggest factor, and time.
I have been waiting for my Cherokee transmission to just go, but luckily so far it hasn't, only uses a quart of atf every 3000 miles...front and rear seals, fluid is always slightly dark-last time I did a filter change it didn't look too bad, very little clutch material, and it hasn't slipped yet, but I can't put more then 500 more lbs in it before it gushes atf from the front seal(which has been replaced twice) it's turning into a rusted out money pit, and without a lot of work and money will probably be hard to pass the next inspection. Hence this truck which was given a budget of $6,000. I have to go over that now because of the radiator, the 4 core it came with turned out bad, too many leaks, plus because of engine, the inlet and outlet are too small.
There's actually a few more things that will bring me over budget too, like all new gaskets, but overall I've kept very close to budget and with the next few months I need to save as much money as I can for bills, given I don't know how much snow we'll get, or rather how many snow storms. I do have a second job lined up, but I still need to make sure I keep plenty in reserve, just in case.
I think I'm good to say I haven't done a lot of things I regret doing(or not), I feel that no matter my decision on this paint, everything will be good, I already know the bed is going to be a little off on color as well because I won't have that ready for paint till spring. And this truck is going to end up a daily driver, I know full well it's not going to end up looking like it just rolled off the assembly line, even color, no dents running perfect, I expect there will be a few little issues here and there once it's "done". And that I can live with. I've driven enough beater cars to know this one will be steps ahead, and should give me 15 years before I think about going through it again.
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Started putting interior in, starting with some sound deadening, and heat barrier. I'm using Thermo-Tec products, they have some good reviews, and I took advantage of some of their deals this holiday, some buy some get some free things. so hopefully I end up with a decent amount left over for some other projects.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0615_zpsd4aybwme.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0615_zpsd4aybwme.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0613_zpsdvriiqrb.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0613_zpsdvriiqrb.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0611_zps45quv5gi.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0611_zps45quv5gi.jpg.html)
Pedal assembly(I need to drill two holes in the fire-wall for the clutch support rods) and steering column will be going in soon, along with the heater diverter and box, with a new heater core. Already started putting in some wiring. More later, Happy Holidays.
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pedals in, clutch slave in, starting to put wiring back in-apparently the only thing I never took proper pictures of.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0623_zpssf75fcm0.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0623_zpssf75fcm0.jpg.html)
and I need a new heater resistor-I tried searching, couldn't find a source-any links or ideas? one of the pins is broke on the back side, so it just sits there.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0625_zpsmasue6ew.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0625_zpsmasue6ew.jpg.html)
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Standard Motor Products RU64 = Three terminal base model blower resistor. Without AC.
Standard Motor Products RU630 = Four terminal blower resistor. With AC.
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Got most of the wiring in, still need to hook up engine side wiring, but 90% of interior is in, still need to finish up door jamb and under dash light, plus steering column plugs.
I painted the dash and cover, I was hoping to install cover before trim, but because the trim needs to be installed first, dash has to come back off. I only slipped the cover on for a quick peek-Doesn't fit as well as I remember.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0652_zpszowi5uwo.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0652_zpszowi5uwo.jpg.html)
(Yes, the cover has a couple cracks, I plan on saving up for a new dash later)
I took a pic from drivers side first, then went and placed the trim in place temporarily.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/IMG_0651_zpsbrvlh1ku.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/IMG_0651_zpsbrvlh1ku.jpg.html)
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(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20Diesel%20Variuos%20Final%20stages%20015_zpsg3orj8bp.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20Diesel%20Variuos%20Final%20stages%20015_zpsg3orj8bp.jpg.html)
I going to take some more pics and upload them tomorrow.
More done, almost all interior wiring is done, I need to fix the under dash light, wires are chafed through in one spot. My thanks to bd for the part number for the ATO/ATC fuse box terminal kit, that is a nice kit for adding into the IGN, ACC, LPS, and BAT terminals of the fuse box; American AutoWire 500429.
The engine bay side is almost done, I have a relay and Oil pressure sender safety switch almost all wired up for the fuel pump, I need to put a ring terminal on one wire that goes to starter, and then finally one wire that goes to the interior that runs a Fail indicator-pretty much if the pump stops receiving power, the lamp lights up. I also wired in a bypass switch to help prime the system without cranking or oil pressure. I also need to finish some grounds, specifically one for the Glow controller, then add a couple for engine to frame/cab/and others.
Things I still need to do are battery cables-I have all new cables and ends, brake lines from master to Proportion valve, and one crossover line for the drivers fuel tank. Then the truck should pretty much be ready to start and drive around.
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I love that color
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I love that color
Thanks!
Here's some of the updated wiring pics, 3 things for the cab-glow and water in fuel lamps need to be wired in, and still need to fix the under dash light and get those wires routed right. Engine side, need to add the reverse light adapter from transmission to firewall, ground for Glow Plug relay, route fuel level sender wire to rear. I will be updating the battery cable ends later, I'm just using some universal ends for now-didn't find any ends I liked local, so I will be ordering online.
I have a junction power 12v+ source, a 150amp bus bar for grounds with a cover(I am ordering a cover for the positive junction), a rocker switch over-ride for fuel pump(priming system after fuel filter changes), fuel pump and fuel pump fail indicator relays. running 8awg wire to battery for alternator, ordering 12awg fusible link for that. 10awg and 14awg fusible link for the power junction block-that may change to 8awg wire and 12awg fusible link. Using #2awg for battery cables.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Engine%20Bay%20pic%201_zpsh8rbyxcj.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Engine%20Bay%20pic%201_zpsh8rbyxcj.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Dash%20Cluster%20Wiring_zpsm9zibdq8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Dash%20Cluster%20Wiring_zpsm9zibdq8.jpg.html)
I see I forgot to plug in one of the plugs to the fuse box-but that kit helped clean it up and the wires stick better then a male spade.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/Fuse%20Box_zps0ldks7dy.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/Fuse%20Box_zps0ldks7dy.jpg.html)
I added a relay and light so I can see if the fuel pump lost power, thought it would be a handy indicator to see if the fuel pump stops working.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/EGT%20Tach%20Fuel%20pump%20fail%20light_zpscnq8ysga.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/EGT%20Tach%20Fuel%20pump%20fail%20light_zpscnq8ysga.jpg.html)
More later.
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Been a while since I updated this thread-so here are a few things I have done.
Worked on making my own air cleaner housing, I will be using the stock filter for a 1997 6.5 Diesel, and it will allow me to pull cooler air from the front like stock. Basic body is 8" air ducting, with beads rolled in with my bead roller(made the body extremely rigid) 3" to 3.5" turbo to air cleaner, 4" from housing to stock attachment on core support. I do still need to make a mount to mate it to the fender.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170228/3458d2da0f443c6101d654946a43d904.jpg)
Painted transfer Skid Plate and Front Diff Cover, drained and replaced front diff fluid.
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20Truck%20starting%20008_zpsmzost0b8.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20Truck%20starting%20008_zpsmzost0b8.jpg.html)
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag279/454levy/GMC%20Truck%20starting%20007_zpsnmihyxlg.jpg) (http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/454levy/media/GMC%20Truck%20starting%20007_zpsnmihyxlg.jpg.html)
Started the engine a couple times, this was the last time- determined the pump was too far retarded, based on the large clouds of unburnt diesel and shaking engine.
https://youtu.be/6oTbA_9lp6k
And I "fixed" the tach as well, it has a bunch of dip switches on the rear, and well apparently having it on a 4 cylinder ignition coil doesn't work. I have it on the right settings now although it does still read a little high-this should be fixed by playing with the potentiometer on the side per the instructions.
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Finishing up cab interior, putting down a butyl layer, Thermo-Tec brand, followed by a generic 1/8" closed cell foam with aluminum foil side. This second layer will provide a little extra sound and heat protection, but the main thing is to provide a soft layer between the vinyl mat and the butyl layer, which will help dampen sounds even further. I am also putting down 2 square sections of a fiberglass mat on the passenger floor board and over the tunnel for heat.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/a25b06eb7a0d7b69a74c35800bbb2fe2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/f4a3e27f6035b6831724e94632a74fb5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/961198f82e811c3809fbe93d6370d85f.jpg)
I need to order more material to finish up, I knew when I put in the initial order I might need another roll to completely do everything I planned.
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My brother has/had a 6.2 powered truck, we took out the engine for him, I stole some wiring, and pulled out my spliced interior wiring for the glow light and Water in Fuel lamps, it also got me the Low coolant sensor light, and the corresponding light cover for the gauge cluster(previously said Choke). I drilled out the hole for the bulkhead connector, engine bay side of the harness now has 2 splices, because I am still using the 6.5 WIF sender and made my own Glow Harness.
I will steal a few more things from the truck-including axles, 3/4 front-GM 10 bolt, 8 lug. 1 ton C&C dually rear end, 4.10 gears. I may sell the rear axle and change gearing to 3.73, getting a full float 14 bolt SRW set up from a 3/4 ton to match the re-gear. All of this is for down the road though.
I ordered a Vinyl floor kit, and some other miscellaneous things. Got the gray vinyl floor, beige didn't match the rest of the interior, and didn't really want Black; blue was definitely not even an option to consider. I am using the original Blue seat belts, will go with Tan or gray belts later down the road.
I am waiting on some better weather to repaint the doors and fenders. I should have enough paint after that to do the exterior of the bed and tail gate.
I just realized I never linked video of me starting the engine. I will do that now...
https://youtu.be/6oTbA_9lp6k
Took a couple tries, had the pump too far retarded, timing chain stretch possibly accounting for that, will need to fine tune. Also the Tach, had the dip switches set for a 6 cylinder distributor-no wonder it never worked right. Still need to fine tune with the potentiometer on the side, idle is about 750rpm(tach shows 850), need to drop that to about 600(manual trans idle I believe was supposed to be around 625, 700 for automatic.)
Warmer Weather approaches, along with longer workdays...Win/Lose scenario I guess-the Cherokee needs a lot of work if I even want to think about getting it to pass inspection. I have till the end of MAY...
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Few things, put in the vinyl floor, started making a cover for the bench seat.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/6e2d5efebf2bcda0064e79bd998c91f6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/910b1e98fb97e6d4fc9e824482f0a0cc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/d6c785bfa8ee049a3b7d4a97bc3fe33e.jpg)
Added top-stitching,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/a7dc1cf5617920ca8e9399a330a2daa5.jpg)
More to come later in the week.
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Finished cover, looks alright, few minor things that could have been done better. But for about $45 total, and 4 hrs time, I think it went pretty good. I may add a pocket to the rear of the seat for small storage later.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/16f38990fb4c254f0b01f622bc6f58d8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/ed94c8f349fa37dcb39eda8cd62b2459.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/cab91ad1b1a6e3fea173d9f4ac1618da.jpg)
And a small issue with the driver side seat mount-it's broken, and I tried hammering out the stop pin, but no luck, I thought about welding it as it sits, but am afraid of it not being a lasting repair(like more then 6 months) Is the only option to replace? Or have I just not hammered hard enough on the stop pin?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/ac996b347ae5a6f1f8ca330010a83357.jpg)
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So I pulled apart the seat track adjuster and rail, you do need to drill out the rivets-and when putting together you either need to sacrifice a socket or get creative to hold a bolt and thread a nut on.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/195b3d7acd95f6e90ff69dc4ac861ece.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/2f32cd66f5ae8f87b7b100d50cd4652c.jpg)
Welds don't look pretty, but they hold pretty good, held it in the vise and leaned and pulled it pretty good, didn't seem to flex.
Here it is back on the seat-some white grease and it acts pretty good and smooth sliding
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/ce002915c380029817619e85d341fe3f.jpg)
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The seat is in, 4x4 shifter is back in, need to get a new trim plate for around boot, and a shift boot for my transmission.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/a535a336c91ad85ad673185a268fd810.jpg)
I need to pull the full size kick panels from my parts truck-I'm leaving a sizable edge on the vinyl, and the full size kick panels will hid that edge-If I don't like the look I can trim back the edge later. I also need to get the dash pad back in and figure out a radio. I'm thinking about experimenting with one of the enclosures and mounting it top side of the dash-just need to make sure the enclosure doesn't have predrilled holes in the rear for wires.
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Re-sanded the fenders and doors, hoping for some time this week to re-paint. Once the fenders are on I can mount the batteries, and I should be able to drive it around. I do want to try re-bleeding the brakes too, the pedal feels soft, no sign of fluid loss though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170409/28da0a7ee41d2e5836f3758d4fc988f5.jpg)
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What did you send it with a wiz wheel? You need to block it before you shoot it
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I did block it, maybe its just paint dust from after I wiped it down quick? I wet-sanded with 600 per the paint recommendation, that pic really makes it look bad though, I'll look at them again tomorrow, maybe I'll go over them one more time.
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Time is flying away...work is full bore, no easing into it, 56 hours Monday to Friday. Saturday I didn't do much, had everything all set up to paint outside, but the wind was whipping around, so that was a no go, ended up tearing apart my Honda Big Red instead-gonna paint the frame up quick, fix a few things, and do some detailing.
Anyways, today wasn't bad, no threat of rain and the wind was better then yesterday-I elected to clean out the garage and sweep the floor, and mop it, then ran air through it to get all the dust out. Put my fenders and doors up best I could. I'm only respraying one side, don't have enough paint, or time to have re done the whole truck. If it ends up being a twenty footer that's fine for now, it'll be covered in dirt soon enough.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170417/2e977aa89266883b0aad644c158fc457.jpg)
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Quick update for the past two weeks. Got inner and outer fenders mounted, battery trays in and hood almost lined up-lost my body shim notes, so have to redo that.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170501/791e82b379c15146a15cb36f8587ffd1.jpg)
Redoing vent window seals, tore apart passenger side first, threw on some fresh paint. Didn't take a before of passenger side, but looked pretty much identical to drivers side.
Drivers side
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170501/ca2c53758592298f58aa3f3b2fec4754.jpg)
Passenger side after paint
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170501/1ec7c4b82ea7aaa36a2da4b8aa430a46.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170501/c023d9b339ea1f5696d7326199fef9ec.jpg)
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Having nice functional non-leaking vent windows is well worth the time and aggravation of rebuilding them.
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Having nice functional non-leaking vent windows is well worth the time and aggravation of rebuilding them.
Agreed, I am having trouble trying to find the grommet/gaskets for the latch mechanism though, I have the locking latch, but every place I looked says the grommets are for the non-locking latches. Would those still work?
One of those grommets was so deteriorated you could actually grab the outside cover and turn it enough to unlatch the window-definitely something that needs to be fixed.
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Do you need the plastic bushings or the rubber gasket?
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You can buy a new latch kit which comes with everything. That's the way I do it.
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You can buy a new latch kit which comes with everything. That's the way I do it.
It may come to that, I was hoping to reuse the latches
Do you need the plastic bushings or the rubber gasket?
I'm guessing both, I just tore into the drivers side-it was opposite the passenger, the plastic bushing was to the outside, where-as the passenger had that bushing to the inside. I was originally thinking of cutting a bicycle tire tube for the gasket, but I don't know what to do about the plastic bushing now. I have a couple more vent Windows I will take apart to see how they are assembled, but the gasket and bushings on those are definitely hurting, you can see chunks missing.
Edit: rubber gasket on the outside for the other passenger vent I have, meaning the drivers must have been assembled wrong-makes more sense to have the gasket to the outside.
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Little update, only rebuilt one vent window, minus latch, tore apart drivers and painted.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170517/684c35ba72079c2817484fa1bdd96968.jpg)
Got new batteries, was running engine, started ticking and smoking-lost the tip on one of the injectors, they were pop tested ok earlier, little low on pressure but general spray was ok. So getting 8 rebuilt ones.
Was planning on mounting doors-but rereading my threads, it doesn't look like I test fit the drivers side before paint??!! Could have sworn I had it all together-I definitely had a body shim sheet. Anyways, drivers door hinges need to move back, as the door contacts the front fender now-so I can't close it. Will have to check passenger later-but that side was previously on the truck before with no issue, and I am positive I test fit that side.
But the truck does move under its power, moved it over a bay, injectors should be back by Friday so I can get those changed out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170517/50a42d4f040104b0afc1cbd71af36d8c.jpg)
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You definitely want to fit the doors before installing the fenders. I would remove the fenders, get the doors dead nuts and then put the fenders on.
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You definitely want to fit the doors before installing the fenders. I would remove the fenders, get the doors dead nuts and then put the fenders on.
Yeah, I figured that, no way to get to cab adjustment bolts with fenders on.
So I'm doing one side at a time, starting with drivers, and I have a little problem-I can't seem to get the door to sit high enough-body line is about 3/16 low, and I have like about 1/2" gap at the top, I can stick my fingers in the gap.
I'm not trying to worry about the other gaps until I figure this out-I originally set the rear gap and lined the front up with the front pillar-when I noticed the gap at the top.
I loosens the door bolts and lifted door as high as it would go, retighten. Then I loosened the cab bolts and tried moving them up-and I end up with the half inch gap.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/010a2027ca123f964e6b1c63c9fac2e7.jpg)
Edit: reading the my post after posting-I think I know what I did wrong, by tightening the bolts on the door hinges I think I ended up limiting the adjustment on the cab side. I'll try again tomorrow .
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Here's a post where we just talked about this http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34757.0;topicseen
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Here's a post where we just talked about this http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34757.0;topicseen
Thanks, I had the striker in place, but I felt it was hindering me, but I'll try again tomorrow when it doesn't feel like it's 100 degrees
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Door and fender on-also found my shim sheet, but it was for the original doors and fenders-I have original GM fender and door on the drivers side-both came from a CUCV, I believe the top leading edge of the door is a little tweaked-it's really the only place I can't align good-any adjustment in that area affects someplace else.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170520/e900a3caf7b20e76cd277c35ed40779a.jpg)
More later.
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Passenger side is pretty close, I had to replace the top hinge pin, did both because I was there although the bottom had very minor movement-but more then drivers side.
I may tweak the alignment a little more-but I got it in a good spot right now-if anything I just need to pull the top outward a hair-this door is aftermarket and not completely perfect; some of the curves are a little off from the cab itself.
No pic of door on, but this was what was left of the top and bottom bushing of the top hinge-there was some sliver of material in the top hole-but it was mainly just the flange-absolutely no flange on the bottom-surprisingly the holes mic'd out ok-so new bushings went in without the need to go oversize. (A ball joint press works pretty good to press in the new pin without hammering on the hinge.)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170521/5d7de35355278ebd3bde919f52a761c4.jpg)
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Passenger side done(yes the rocker is a little out of whack-I had debated fixing it-but that was extra money I didn't have at the time.) The door doesn't hit there but it is close.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170521/30e0c104e78307964aedda74352a6eb7.jpg)
I am currently replacing all the injectors, it should be ready to drive around later this afternoon and I can get a quick video going.
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Been a while, still having engine issues, looking to be timing related-guy who rebuilt the injection pump wanted to test it to make sure nothing failed internally. Should hear back this week on that.
Painted underside of bed-have to flip to do rest of it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170626/2f4d1133de9f82dfead9c1a16ccd03f1.jpg)
Rear shocks installed with braces-nothing too fancy, but more support then stock.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170626/704cb005149f09999c309b135b216777.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170626/e00cc706a5b43e91e826b1c5e2df4217.jpg)
Fronts to be installed later, need/want new bolts.
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Good progress
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Been awhile, have to figure out pictures due to photo bucket, might try from phone using Tap-a-Talk.
But here is a quick video, ran it around, had a little issue with the front brakes not releasing, but only happened twice early, hasn't happened since. essentially the engine was way out of time, and the timing chain had loads of slack(surprisingly still in spec according to GM service manuals)
also going to do a wood bed to get it on the road, while giving me more time to actually work on the bed-I would really like to find OEM bedsides that won't cost me a half months pay.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rlvdz6keJQ
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Wood bed 90% completed, one board left to cut to width, a little sanding with belt sander to smooth some ends, and a couple more screws down the middle. Then mounting some lights.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/e6b5741375be349c5e88990ecac918c1.jpg)
I can add to the bed later, like side boards and such, but this will make it legal to get it on the road. I will add a set of mudflaps before really using the truck on road as well, front and back of rear tires.
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Getting closer, needs front bumper, rear window for inspection, grille and interior finished for aesthetics, hoping for middle of week registration, gives me 10 days before I need inspection, hopefully driving it around doesn't show any flaws, everything is like or is brand new.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/0c1a90f3f53f0487ea0f8ddde80480af.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/39ab83970368a6052166e935ca56e256.jpg)
Scored a radio delete plate! Free! I don't want to cut dash (although PO did cut center around one of the AC vent holes), I plan on doing an underdash box to mount radio. Then as funds allow, something like a retrosound stereo.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/d5d1c1c066b0f8f79641d948c0bd0d15.jpg)
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I have run the truck out of fuel for the first time...my own fault, the gas gauge hasn't been reading right, and while trying to diagnose, I switched tanks...forgetting to switch back. So after Finishing exhaust(needs hangers bent and welded.) Front Bumper, Rear Window Install and registration, that is my first to fix project. Wouldn't be the first time I have needed to drive a truck with a faulty fuel gauge.
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Well that's motivation to get it all working right again. Faulty gas gauge happened to me a few weeks ago. I drove to and from work and the gauge still read 5/8 so I stopped at the gas station and it took 18 gallons lol so that was a close call. Mine was the gauge at fault.
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Got another faulty gauge, temp gauge will peg out, I wonder if it is a mismatched gauge and sender? I have a couple extra gauges, some top out at 240, some at 260, and one at 280. I didn't have a temp probe, but I could hold the upper radiator hose for a long time, radiator was a little cooler (so I know that's working.) But made the trip to work good, clutch will need a little work(air in line maybe), and I was informed my park lights are brighter then my brake lights.
Pre trip photo
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/9bbca9e1dd550c839a1fcd80195425e5.jpg)
Also need another wiper arm, as the retaining clip was missing on one of the arms,
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So the temperature gauge goes from 100(cold) to 260(hot) within 5 minutes of idling and driving. Actual temp after a 10 minute cool down was 140ish(depending on location of IR gun), starting up temperature dropped slightly on IR, then slowly started rising never ran it long, got to maybe 155F-measurement taken on coolant crossover tube drivers head. Meanwhile gauge pegged at 260 within first few seconds of restarting.
as I understand, removing sender wire and grounding it should NOT peg the gauge to hot, if it does the sender is bad?
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For 1979 - 1990 vintage temperature gauges, the lowest (cold) line of the gauge corresponds to 1,365 ohms of sender resistance, the center line of the gauge corresponds to 96 ohms, and the highest (hot) line corresponds to 55 ohms. In other words, disconnecting the gauge from its sender will deflect the gauge needle fully CCW, below "cold," whereas grounding the sender wire will cause full scale CW deflection, past the maximum "hot" line.
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For 1979 - 1990 vintage temperature gauges, the lowest (cold) line of the gauge corresponds to 1,365 ohms of sender resistance, the center line of the gauge corresponds to 96 ohms, and the highest (hot) line corresponds to 55 ohms. In other words, disconnecting the gauge from its sender will deflect the gauge needle fully CCW, below "cold," whereas grounding the sender wire will cause full scale CW deflection, past the maximum "hot" line.
Would disconnecting bring it to about 9 o-clock, or just under the "cold" line? Grounding did peg needle to about 3 o-clock, but disconnecting only brought it under the "cold" line.
In other news, fixed my wiring for brake lights and park lights. They now work as they should, had the wiring crossed.
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Sounds about right. If you want to test the gauge, substitute a 56-ohm 1/2-watt resistor for the sender; the gauge should read mid-scale. But it sounds like it has a faulty or incorrect sender.
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I'll see if I have a resister and test. In the meantime do you have a part number for the sender? My gauge reads from 100 to 260. Searching is yielding me several numbers with no clear idea about which gauge it goes to.
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A 47, and 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resisters in series, only brought the gauge to the second tick mark, 1/4 gauge reading.
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...do you have a part number for the sender?
For an '85 K10 with 6.2C/J and gauges: OEM P/N-25037346 (ACDelco #213-80 (https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-80-Original-Equipment-Temperature/dp/B000C9L7DI)).
A 47, and 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resisters in series, only brought the gauge to the second tick mark, 1/4 gauge reading.
That was a typo. I meant to type 96 ohms; 56 ohms should deflect the needle to "hot." Check and clean the connections between the slewing resistor on the back of the gauge and the gauge terminals. Otherwise replace the gauge.
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Replaced gauge, seems to work now, will go for a drive and verify.
While I had cluster out (again) I decided to pull fuel gauge to see if I could get it to function off the truck (pulling wires, and grounding/de-grounding did nothing) I noticed a missing spring clip, and found a portion of it along the bottom of the cluster-i found the rest of it under my floor mat. Fuel gauge appears to work now, at least it goes up to about where it should.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170812/2d306aca11754394e0c85fa5ee095a9a.jpg)
I had removed and burnished all spring clips and the circuit board before installing on truck- also made sure spring clips were tight. Apparently that clip was on the verge of failing and I failed to notice. I rechecked a few others, they all appear to be fine.
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Temp gauge still not working right, I put in a gauge I know came from a Diesel truck, reads 240 as high. This makes me feel like there is an issue with the wiring someplace. BUT I will test with a resister to see what the gauge reads. I really should just order the right parts and make my own tester, so I can test spare gauges and throw out any that don't "work"
the New temp sender was a standard TS76, which does correspond to the OEM part number supplied.
And Thanks bd for being so helpful. Also to VileZambonie and the many others who have lent their wisdom.
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Try WT359P sending unit
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A 47, and 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resisters in series, only brought the gauge to the second tick mark, 1/4 gauge reading.
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I screwed up here, been so long in reading resister values, I had to look them up to make sure I was grabbing the right ones, still read wrong, it was a 47 and a 100ohm resister that brought Original(100 to 260) to a 1/4 gauge reading. This was attaching the resisters in series to the spade plug in engine bay and grounding out.
On the newer gauge, two 47 ohm resisters brought the gauge to a 3/4 reading, but the 100 and 47 ohm resisters brought the gauge reading to 1/2 way. Trying to find the parts to make a gauge tester, via bd's informative post on functional test on gauges.
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Not sure, seemed like a good idea in the vast space of my mind, I think I'll try something a little different on the other side. I plan on running a steel trap door over it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170813/9ee8ded9f1ad4d9b29473297b401c76c.jpg)
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How about mounting it parallel with the floor and use a flush mount cover
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85700?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6uTViNnU1QIVgSOBCh2POwt_EAQYASABEgI-HvD_BwE
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That's great idea, albeit mimic the design in 12-ga marine stainless and mortise the surrounding wood with a router for a flush fit.
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How about mounting it parallel with the floor and use a flush mount cover
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85700?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6uTViNnU1QIVgSOBCh2POwt_EAQYASABEgI-HvD_BwE
Whatever I do is going to require a new/different neck and/or hose. So not a bad idea, just need to think out drivers side a little better. Plus, because I am putting side boards on, I want to be able to fill without having to remove sideboards or anything I might be carrying.
My attempt was one of those times where you want to think before cutting...sort of like the measure twice cut once.
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Try WT359P sending unit
Picked one up today, installed it, seems to have done the trick, it doesn't peg out, although it does read high, at 170/180° on my IR thermometer, it reads 200-210° on the gauge. Now when I did the resister test(probably slightly inaccurate my method) did show my gauge would read high (94 ohms showed 3/4 (210°), the previous gauge read at 1/4 (140ish?) with a 147ohm resister, so I would have to think the original gauge is/was a better match for this sender.
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Edit: further testing on gauges will be done before swapping, still working on locating the pieces to make a tester, I want to be able to bench test, so a self powered 12v unit would be key here.
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Keep in mind the test BD mentioned is used to provide baseline functionality tests. It does not factor in the dynamic results of your system, i.e. resistance in the circuit, voltage drops, intermittent connections etc. If you have the functionality now there is no point in furthering those tests.
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Keep in mind the test BD mentioned is used to provide baseline functionality tests. It does not factor in the dynamic results of your system, i.e. resistance in the circuit, voltage drops, intermittent connections etc. If you have the functionality now there is no point in furthering those tests.
Right, but if using the same resister gets a slightly different reading on different gauges, then I could find a gauge that could read closer to actual, or would that theory not apply? I do understand that these gauges weren't the most accurate.
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Let me put it like this, you have a 12V battery, some wires, a resistor with a fixed value, a connection to ground that you made...get the idea? Is that the circuit that really connects to your gauge? Dynamic values are not at play and if you start focusing on the "test" values you may easily overlook your culprit in any situation including this one. End result, wasted time, wasted money. BD's test is designed to give you a quick point in the right direction, not a calibration instruction. Hope that makes sense.
In other words, factor in your battery, your charging system your negative circuit resistance at any given point, sensor connection, coolant temperature, sender accuracy, electrolysis, corrosion, loose connections, more than one faulty connection or component, etc. etc...
BD tell me if I'm misreading what you were getting at
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I think I see what you are saying, that even though I have one gauge, I knew what it read in truck at a certain point in that dynamic time with a certain resistance, that even if I test and compare that gauge out of the truck to another using the same resistance value, dynamics may cause a difference in the truck.
So the short of the story is basically I won't be able to see if a gauge is more accurate without installing in the truck.
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Well, lol, everybody is correct within the frame of their perspective. The methods described in Functional Tests of Factory GM Electric Gauges (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=25339.msg211241#msg211241) are essentially a "Pass, Fail" approach. I think, everyone agrees that, "Factory gauges are not precision instruments." That is one of the reasons that numeric values were deleted from the gauge faces in later production and replaced with "COLD - HOT" for coolant temperature and "LOW - HIGH" for oil pressure. The values provided in the test procedure are the baseline standard that was used by the factory for gauge calibration. But, with production variances few gauges will actually fall "exactly" inline with those values. Still, the values are the baseline and suitable to validate gauges for continued service. Most gauges are surprisingly close - probably within 5 - 7% as a guess from personal observation.
So, whether the gauges are tested on the bench with "perfect circuits" or in the vehicle with "actual, dynamic circuits," the tests are valid, with a caveat. When testing in-vehicle by substituting a known fixed resistance for the sender (which is the primary application of the procedure), if a gauge does not adhere to the parameters of the test, one must then validate all connections, I+, ground, etc, before condemning the gauge. This includes verifying that the substitute sender (the resistance used for the test) is properly grounded, as well, which is an easy variable to falsely assume and overlook. The advantage to testing in-vehicle is that if the gauge does adhere to the parameters of the test, the connecting components of the circuit can be assumed to be correct and therefore serviceable, leaving the sender and its B- connection to battery as the only untested variables.
Effectively, as with any test procedure, one has to understand what (s)he is measuring and comparing, which includes a thorough understanding of the complete circuit under test.
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Well, after driving around a few days, there are a few things I need to address, my hydro-boost unit has starting leaking from all points, including into cab now, luckily it has only dripped onto the cheap rubber mat I have under the pedals. My exhaust turbo down-pipe is hitting the heat shield on the cab- all my cab mounts, engine mounts and exhaust hangers are tight, and I know I had room before; so not sure what happened there. And NEED the correct gas tank fillers for diesel, I can't even find a universal spout that would fit the 1-3/4" rubber neck from the tank, plus no clue if any of the aftermarket fillers would work on diesel pumps.
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One door panel on, still need to order a rubber bumper stop for passenger window. And the plastic push clips.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170817/462cd5d144815a4f5dc186a4b6be9add.jpg)
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i know its not going to look the best but your fuel cap will cover the fuel hole most the time. but disconnect the fuel filler from the fuel tank hose, take a hole saw bit and cut the hole bigger. if you go big enough you can fit the semi pump nozzle in there and fill up fairly fast
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i know its not going to look the best but your fuel cap will cover the fuel hole most the time. but disconnect the fuel filler from the fuel tank hose, take a hole saw bit and cut the hole bigger. if you go big enough you can fit the semi pump nozzle in there and fill up fairly fast
I was doing some reading, looks like a lot of early dodge and ford gas to diesel conversions were done the same way.
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i took an air punch to mine. meant to find a hole saw but never got around to it. when i do my bed swap im going to do it so i pull up to the big rig spots and fill up both sides at once
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Well to add to the list of things to fix-reverse and park lights are miswired to use with the oem trailer plug adapter-extremely minor.
Not so minor was some guy informing me that my brake lights were not working, simple fix, and luckily I had a spare at home, but brake light switch failed-ordering one tomorrow to have as a spare. Decides to go through all lights again...stupid hazards weren't working, again another simple fix, spare flasher relay "fixed it", so going to get another electronic flasher; especially since the replacement seems like it might be failing (flashes fast, slow, with the "click" no "click", etc.)
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Better on the drivers side, at least I should be able to fill up without removing bedside or anything in the bed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/f9aec3545f3af3b99626d360e7f56a32.jpg)
Also believe I have a short in fuel sender wire on drivers side, sometimes it indicates fuel level (I assume close to) or 3 o-clock position, plus I need a new switch for fuel tank switch over-keeps falling apart and falling behind the dash. It feels tight and tugging on it it won't come apart, but pushing the button, and once just randomly, falls apart.
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The fuel gauge sweeping to 3:00 o'clock is due to an open in the signal lead connecting the sender to the gauge. The senders connect to the dash gauge through the tank selector valve, bypassing the dash switch entirely.
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The fuel gauge sweeping to 3:00 o'clock is due to an open in the signal lead connecting the sender to the gauge. The senders connect to the dash gauge through the tank selector valve, bypassing the dash switch entirely.
Oh, so it's likely just a bad wire internal and isn't grounded out somewhere? I thought I read that the fuel gage would read past full if the sender wire was grounded out. I scotch-brited the connector with no luck earlier, is there an aftermarket source for that wire, or would I be better off taking the ends and splicing in a new length of wire? I guess that assumes the connectors themselves are fine, which they might not be...so I guess I'll ignore splicing for the time being. And now that I've written all that, one last test I should do before condemning the wire is put a resistor in line between sender wire and ground, just to make sure it's not that the sender itself has gone bad.
And I realize the inside switch has nothing to do with it, as that is just a momentary switch. It's just a little annoyance that it keeps falling apart whenever I want to switch tanks (3rd time so far.)
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And also finally got some front mudflaps on, should help a little with the dirt and rocks.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170826/05c2818ec745136a5cbf2c26f987cd6b.jpg)
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Oh, so it's likely just a bad wire internal and isn't grounded out somewhere? I thought I read that the fuel gage would read past full if the sender wire was grounded out. I scotch-brited the connector with no luck earlier, is there an aftermarket source for that wire, or would I be better off taking the ends and splicing in a new length of wire? I guess that assumes the connectors themselves are fine, which they might not be...so I guess I'll ignore splicing for the time being. And now that I've written all that, one last test I should do before condemning the wire is put a resistor in line between sender wire and ground, just to make sure it's not that the sender itself has gone bad.
While the gauge is acting up, ground the fuel gauge lead where it connects to the sender. If the gauge drops to empty, the fault is ether in the sender or the sender ground connection.
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Well, driving around more I noticed the fuel gauge stopped pegging out, so out of curiosity I put in a few gallons, and the gauge started doing it again. I think the float is coming off the meter thing that sends the signal to the gauge, plus it seems to read high, as there should only be 15-16 gallons now(I figure I used at least 2 gallons, and I only put in 3 more, the first time I filled the tank I only put in 15 gallons and this is the first time using it.)
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Cucv brush guard mounted, kind of like the superflat black, was trying to find more semigloss, but this worked out well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170830/7fb4237646c9a92d8c3f2a6e94676093.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170830/b6133c00e21a82e6c2a4033d0de5089f.jpg)
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Looks good. No grille emblem?
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It's on the to get list, this is the plain Jane $30 grille, with no provision for the emblem. It's what came with the truck, I haven't been fortunate enough to find a grille in good enough shape to use.
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Other door panel on, need to find the door handle trim, dash cover on...not great, but better then before; something I plan on changing out down the road.
Proportion valve woes- got a new valve, all lines leaking, tightening did nothing, remove valve- flares are messed up on lines and valves-no clue if my flares were at fault, or if the valve was machined wrong, there was some evidence on the old valve that the lines might have been badly flared, however they did not leak.
I live across from a dead end road with nothing on it, so before I take a truck or car on the actual road I do a quick acceleration and "panic" brake, several times. Then inspect for leaks. So I know the flares were sealing well before...
Forgot to add pic.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170904/7081eb05104b908e65bd8a022db1071a.jpg)
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Actually been a while posting in this thread. I ended up getting stainless brake lines from Inline Tube, several months back, everything had been going fine, doing a little detailing here and there, when out of the blue driving to work...2 or 3 weeks ago... developed a severe vibration, and before I could find a safe place to pull off the highway, lost my rear driveshaft, this caused a dented and slightly bent driveahaft, rear yoke was messed up, slip yoke ear broke off, and broke the tail housing on the transfer case...
At this time I deemed it wise to reseal the transfercase (like new inside!) It was dripping a little from the case halves and front seal-that yoke was grooved bad-my parts transfer case had a good one though, and a good tailhousing. New speedo gear-yellow 40 tooth. New front diff yoke-this was on the to do list, the retaining ears were slightly worn allowing the u joint to slide. New yoke requires u-bolts, so temporary delay there right now.
My new driveshaft was made with 1350 u-joints, and a new yoke for the rear. Only $600. Should have made it 1/2" longer, but it has satisfactory engagement, about 1.5" from bottoming out as it sits.
It still isn't real clear what caused the driveshaft to go, but all evidence points to the rear going first. Either broke or lost a cap is the best quess. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171215/be6dda13a8cb17425be7b62a9045880f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171215/9fa4189238dce1465a4dfd0a5a11c1d6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171215/83bba3f9b37d3439ee2686ebb5f5e381.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171215/39366dfcdd30316219d2c45011914aa9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171215/dec79ef03a6e06378cb50381baa7f4b2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171215/a7444a44a025acdcc07521255cea2985.jpg)
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Scored GMC cab trim off of craigslist. $50 got me all three pieces, all straight and true, GMC emblems showing fading, and some minor oxidation on the trim itself. One corner piece has some minor edge paint-scrapes off with a fingernail.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180210/0ac42c00a527da0199438eb3ad891dcf.jpg)
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Those will clean up good. I'd chemically strip them and repaint them.
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Those will clean up good. I'd chemically strip them and repaint them.
I was reading up on this, seem quite a few people completely strip, and just use an automotive clear, then paint the emblems, and a final clear coat. Is there a more preferred way to go about this?
I wasn't originally going to do any trim on the truck, but decided I liked the cab trim, and so I set a price, and if I found good trim I would get it.
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I just chem dipped these ones to strip them of the factory paint. You wouldn't put clear on until you are done painting them but that's not even necessary if you are just painting the square.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1jvkoVI5iAXJp9Do5ZnDGx9EFqq1I2stb)
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I just chem dipped these ones to strip them of the factory paint. You wouldn't put clear on until you are done painting them but that's not even necessary if you are just painting the square.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1jvkoVI5iAXJp9Do5ZnDGx9EFqq1I2stb)
I have been inspecting them further, and while they are in very nice shape, there is some signs of the hard anodized surface starting to oxidize. I am holding off on doing anything with these until the warm weather appears, at which point I can decide on the best route to take.
In other news, a transmission swap will likely take place within the next 3 or 4 months as well. I will pull and inspect everything internal, it is missing a PTO cover, and the front main shafts bearing cover, but everything inside looks pretty good. They sell a pto cooler kit. I may decide to put that on instead of a regular cover, if just to help a little bit with cooling and oil capacity.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180311/81a7b87b619fef7233a96d20a53beb65.jpg)
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Well upon pulling the transmission apart, I realized it was a whole lot worse then I could see through the PTO hole.
I think the guy used sand and dirty motor oil from a blown engine to rebuild it. The syncros all looked new, but the bearings were showing scratches and signs of wear, there was brass shaving over 1st, reverse and fifth gears. So a full rebuild kit and I now have a good useable transmission. I kid you not, I pressure washed and scrubbed that case 10+ times, and I was still wiping sand away....pathetic. Here it is almost all wrapped up. I drilled new holes and tapped to mount an sm465 bellhousing. Seen it done, and one guy even had it in front of a doubler 205/203 combo. Just need to properly clean the top cover. Then I can start prepping for install....
I'm also showing my home-made tool for the fifth nut, and one of the spots I needed to do minor clearancing on the bellhousing. Two bolt holes needed minor clearancing to clear the flange and to fit a thin wall socket.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/e417eea205eabb2893816a6940e13fd5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/b6efdb0acc1a2a75b93ec7fa288d3532.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/d6167733f78d013513c5d7b6c6ecd8e3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/7c21ff9c7a86e2c6513f87964ec116fd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180328/ab92e4bebca22220597be506d2fa6576.jpg)
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Kaiser,
Awesome job man! I just purchased a K10 and am still wrenching on it. Thanks for taking the time to document your work. Would you mind if I asked you a question from time to time if I run into trouble?
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5 speed in, makes the highway runs better, plus I've been thinking of regearing for better towing, so it will definitely help then.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/efb82d02278f8234ea163402659dd300.jpg)
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