1985 GMC K10 build

[VileZambonie]

Keep in mind the test BD mentioned is used to provide baseline functionality tests. It does not factor in the dynamic results of your system, i.e. resistance in the circuit, voltage drops, intermittent connections etc. If you have the functionality now there is no point in furthering those tests.

[1967KaiserM715]

Keep in mind the test BD mentioned is used to provide baseline functionality tests. It does not factor in the dynamic results of your system, i.e. resistance in the circuit, voltage drops, intermittent connections etc. If you have the functionality now there is no point in furthering those tests.

Right, but if using the same resister gets a slightly different reading on different gauges, then I could find a gauge that could read closer to actual, or would that theory not apply? I do understand that these gauges weren't the most accurate.

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[VileZambonie]

Let me put it like this, you have a 12V battery, some wires, a resistor with a fixed value, a connection to ground that you made...get the idea? Is that the circuit that really connects to your gauge? Dynamic values are not at play and if you start focusing on the "test" values you may easily overlook your culprit in any situation including this one. End result, wasted time, wasted money. BD's test is designed to give you a quick point in the right direction, not a calibration instruction. Hope that makes sense.

In other words, factor in your battery, your charging system your negative circuit resistance at any given point, sensor connection, coolant temperature, sender accuracy, electrolysis, corrosion, loose connections, more than one faulty connection or component, etc. etc...

BD tell me if I'm misreading what you were getting at

[1967KaiserM715]

I think I see what you are saying, that even though I have one gauge, I knew what it read in truck at a certain point in that dynamic time with a certain resistance, that even if I test and compare that gauge out of the truck to another using the same resistance value, dynamics may cause a difference in the truck.

So the short of the story is basically I won't be able to see if a gauge is more accurate without installing in the truck.

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[bd]

Well, lol, everybody is correct within the frame of their perspective.  The methods described in Functional Tests of Factory GM Electric Gauges are essentially a "Pass, Fail" approach.  I think, everyone agrees that, "Factory gauges are not precision instruments."  That is one of the reasons that numeric values were deleted from the gauge faces in later production and replaced with "COLD - HOT" for coolant temperature and "LOW - HIGH" for oil pressure.  The values provided in the test procedure are the baseline standard that was used by the factory for gauge calibration.  But, with production variances few gauges will actually fall "exactly" inline with those values.  Still, the values are the baseline and suitable to validate gauges for continued service.  Most gauges are surprisingly close - probably within 5 - 7% as a guess from personal observation. 

So, whether the gauges are tested on the bench with "perfect circuits" or in the vehicle with "actual, dynamic circuits," the tests are valid, with a caveat.  When testing in-vehicle by substituting a known fixed resistance for the sender (which is the primary application of the procedure), if a gauge does not adhere to the parameters of the test, one must then validate all connections, I+, ground, etc, before condemning the gauge.  This includes verifying that the substitute sender (the resistance used for the test) is properly grounded, as well, which is an easy variable to falsely assume and overlook.  The advantage to testing in-vehicle is that if the gauge does adhere to the parameters of the test, the connecting components of the circuit can be assumed to be correct and therefore serviceable, leaving the sender and its B- connection to battery as the only untested variables. 

Effectively, as with any test procedure, one has to understand what (s)he is measuring and comparing, which includes a thorough understanding of the complete circuit under test.

[1967KaiserM715]

Well, after driving around a few days, there are a few things I need to address, my hydro-boost unit has starting leaking from all points, including into cab now, luckily it has only dripped onto the cheap rubber mat I have under the pedals. My exhaust turbo down-pipe is hitting the heat shield on the cab- all my cab mounts, engine mounts and exhaust hangers are tight, and I know I had room before; so not sure what happened there. And NEED the correct gas tank fillers for diesel, I can't even find a universal spout that would fit the 1-3/4" rubber neck from the tank, plus no clue if any of the aftermarket fillers would work on diesel pumps.

[1967KaiserM715]

One door panel on, still need to order a rubber bumper stop for  passenger window. And the plastic push clips.



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[Irish_Alley]

i know its not going to look the best but your fuel cap will cover the fuel hole most the time. but disconnect the fuel filler from the fuel tank hose, take a hole saw bit and cut the hole bigger. if you go big enough you can fit the semi pump nozzle in there and fill up fairly fast

[1967KaiserM715]

i know its not going to look the best but your fuel cap will cover the fuel hole most the time. but disconnect the fuel filler from the fuel tank hose, take a hole saw bit and cut the hole bigger. if you go big enough you can fit the semi pump nozzle in there and fill up fairly fast

I was doing some reading, looks like a lot of early dodge and ford gas to diesel conversions were done the same way.

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[Irish_Alley]

i took an air punch to mine. meant to find a hole saw but never got around to it. when i do my bed swap im going to do it so i pull up to the big rig spots and fill up both sides at once

[1967KaiserM715]

Well to add to the list of things to fix-reverse and park lights are miswired to use with the oem trailer plug adapter-extremely minor.

Not so minor was some guy informing me that my brake lights were not working, simple fix, and luckily I had a spare at home, but brake light switch failed-ordering one tomorrow to have as a spare. Decides to go through all lights again...stupid hazards weren't working, again another simple fix, spare flasher relay "fixed it", so going to get another electronic flasher; especially since the replacement seems like it might be failing (flashes fast, slow, with the "click" no "click", etc.)

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[1967KaiserM715]

Better on the drivers side, at least I should be able to fill up without removing bedside or anything in the bed.



Also believe I have a short in fuel sender wire on drivers side, sometimes it indicates fuel level (I assume close to) or 3 o-clock position, plus I need a new switch for fuel tank switch over-keeps falling apart and falling behind the dash. It feels tight and tugging on it it won't come apart, but pushing the button, and once just randomly, falls apart.

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[bd]

The fuel gauge sweeping to 3:00 o'clock is due to an open in the signal lead connecting the sender to the gauge.  The senders connect to the dash gauge through the tank selector valve, bypassing the dash switch entirely.

[1967KaiserM715]

The fuel gauge sweeping to 3:00 o'clock is due to an open in the signal lead connecting the sender to the gauge.  The senders connect to the dash gauge through the tank selector valve, bypassing the dash switch entirely.

Oh, so it's likely just a bad wire internal and isn't grounded out somewhere? I thought I read that the fuel gage would read past full if the sender wire was grounded out. I scotch-brited the connector with no luck earlier, is there an aftermarket source for that wire, or would I be better off taking the ends and splicing in a new length of wire? I guess that assumes the connectors themselves are fine, which they might not be...so I guess I'll ignore splicing for the time being. And now that I've written all that, one last test I should do before condemning the wire is put a resistor in line between sender wire and ground, just to make sure it's not that the sender itself has gone bad.

And I realize the inside switch has nothing to do with it, as that is just a momentary switch. It's just a little annoyance that it keeps falling apart whenever I want to switch tanks (3rd time so far.)

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[1967KaiserM715]

And also finally got some front mudflaps on, should help a little with the dirt and rocks.



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