Author Topic: Full body restoration...  (Read 112446 times)

Offline philo_beddoe

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Full body restoration...
« on: April 01, 2016, 10:15:30 PM »
I spoke with the shop teacher at a high tech trade school, he said at least
10k to get my truck to look like this.


Another new classic body shop near me said, 5k just to paint. He also stated you cannot repair rust or corrosion, it must be replaced entirely or will always come back.

I dont mind paying for quality body work, new panels and such, but are there any solutions to painting for less than 5k?

Remember the infamous $50 dollar paint job, what if i sprayed through a sprayer instead of rolling?

Infamous $50 paint job!!
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30802
« Last Edit: April 01, 2016, 10:21:23 PM by philo_beddoe »
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2016, 10:36:47 PM »
10 for that truck vs 40k for a new truck now days. yeah ill take one of our old truck anytime
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Offline LTZ C20

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2016, 10:39:06 PM »
There is no substitute for a quality sprayed paint work. You pay for exactly what you get.
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Offline SomeTexan

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2016, 10:58:35 PM »
How much rust are you dealing with? Most of the cost of a good paint job is prep work and body work, in most cases. Some shops will work with you if you can do some of the work yourself. It's a lot cheaper if all they are doing is giving the primer a final scuff and throwing down paint. If there is 4 hours of welding, 20 hours of sanding, 5 hours of straightening the metal, 5 hours of dissassembly, 5 hours of body filler shaping, and some priming too, well, you pay for it.

5k isn't bad if they are doing it right. Thar would be really high if they aren't jamming it and pulling the bed though.

Are you interested in trying something different? There is a 67-72 near me with a green and white paint job that is actually plasti-dip. You have to be within about ten feet to see that it isn't paint. There is a gloss additive for the plasti-dip, and it worked well on this one. He prepped for paint, then shot this stuff and it still looks great after 4 years. He used Eastwood's product. I'm going to try it on my '90 swb.
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Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2016, 10:45:03 AM »
May want to watch milkcrate82's videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50VOLpF3CBo

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2016, 12:11:05 PM »
Quote
He also stated you cannot repair rust or corrosion, it must be replaced entirely or will always come back

He is right. You can cut the rusted areas out , silicon bronze weld in new e-coat sheet metal, do your body work, good prep and paint and she'll last forever.
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Offline philo_beddoe

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2016, 02:09:05 PM »
How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
Behold, the day of the LORD cometh, and thy spoil shall be divided in the midst of thee.  Zechariah 14:1

Offline K20Detroit

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2016, 03:36:34 PM »
How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
Plasti-dip is a temporary paint job, it peals off easily. I wouldn't do it on anything classic like this, leave it to the ricers.

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2016, 04:09:04 PM »
ive heard it can be hard to peal off. but most times i see it on bumpers or wheels
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Offline zieg85

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2016, 04:17:31 PM »
ive heard it can be hard to peal off. but most times i see it on bumpers or wheels

Very similar technology as Strip-able Booth Coat, white coating for spray booths.  Stays strip-able for up to a year then it is very difficult to remove.  The plasticizers eventually leave, very similar as why dashes get hard and crack...
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Offline SomeTexan

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2016, 04:27:03 PM »
How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
Plasti-dip is a temporary paint job, it peals off easily. I wouldn't do it on anything classic like this, leave it to the ricers.

It's only temporary if you prep it to be temporary. If you prep for paint and scuff the surface, good brands can be very permenant. And I'm sure you would be surprised how many muscle cars are painted with this stuff. Different brands and types, from spray on bed liner type of surface to smooth almost paint like.
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Offline SomeTexan

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2016, 04:30:38 PM »
How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?

Here is Eastwood's site about it. Lots of colors, different additives and different spraying procedures to get different textures.

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/elastiwrap-coatings.html
86 swb c10, LQ4/glide with 80mm turbo

Offline philo_beddoe

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Full body restoration...
« Reply #12 on: April 03, 2016, 01:41:51 PM »
Crazy question here: Has anyone or heard of anyone applying por 15 or chassis saver to the main body panels, like a spray on truck bed coating, non textured? Some high quality spray on truck bed liners come in many colors too. No, i'm not doing that, just asking.
Behold, the day of the LORD cometh, and thy spoil shall be divided in the midst of thee.  Zechariah 14:1

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2016, 07:07:51 PM »
POR15 is garbage and has no place on the exterior body of anything
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Offline Blazin

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Re: Full body restoration...
« Reply #14 on: April 03, 2016, 07:25:27 PM »
POR15, or Chassis Saver is for sand blasted metal, or surface rusted / tightly adhered rusty surfaces.
The roof on my 55 was all surface rust. I sanded it with 80 grit, brush painted it with Chassis Saver, let it flash for about two hours, sprayed it with high build urethane primer. Sanded it, sprayed it with paint. The roof has never rusted since, that was 10 /12 years ago.
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