Author Topic: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice  (Read 3202 times)

Offline pbearly

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85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« on: December 01, 2017, 07:54:42 AM »
New to the site and joined to get some insight on my project.  I've owned the 85 K30 for several years.  It's a great truck we use on the farm, has a plow for our Michigan winters as well as an in-bed dump bed that is handy for many uses.  The truck is in great mechanical shape, runs great, everything works.  It's a 4 speed truck, dana 60 front, 14 bolt rear.  Unfortunately this truck has been in Michigan its entire life and the body is beyond repair.  Also the interior of this truck isn't in great shape but the seat is pretty good.  I recently was down south and found an 83 C20 that I plan to use to solve the body rot issues.  This truck is a 2wd automatic truck with PW/PL AC that works.  This truck is runs pretty good as well, vortec engine (been replaced at some point) with TH400 trans that works.  Interior is pretty well shot due to the heat of the south.  The body paint isn't real bad but will be repainted, the body is solid, no rust and it's straight.

So now I'm trying to figure out what the best way to proceed.  I'm not sure if I should take the body off the 83 and put it on the 85 chassis or if I should take the 4wd parts off the 85 and put them under the 83.  I'm also thinking about if I should use the 4speed or get the TH 400 converted to a 4wd trans and convert the truck to an auto 4x4.  I don't plan to make a show truck out of this project but I do want a decent truck out of this.  I know the interior will need to be redone no matter how I go with this project.  I appreciate your insight

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2017, 08:21:53 AM »
when you say "vortex" so you mean 86-95 tbi vortex or a true vortex 96+?
it will be a lot easier if your 4x4 is tagged if you just do a body swap. it will be a lot easier if physically and time wise if you do a body swap. i would think about using the vortex no matter what year it is over a carbed engine. and i personally prefer manual transmissions over autos but its a lot easier just to worry about pressing the gas and easier if you get stuck in traffic
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Offline pbearly

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2017, 11:37:56 AM »
Yeah, someone put a carburetor on the vortec but it's definitely a vortec engine, I plan to run the numbers to see what year.   I get you on the body swap, only real reason I was considering to swap suspensions is because the 4x4 frame has been rusting in Michigan and the other one still has factory paint on it.

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2017, 11:47:56 AM »
is it rusted real thin? like if you take a hammer to it you can punch through it? if thats the case it kind of brings up other issues as far as how rusty the springs/hangers and cab mounts are. you can make the 2wd a 4wd but i dont think it should be done in the back yard but if you have a shop where you can take your time and maybe fab up a cross member or mounts then it will only take time
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Offline pbearly

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2017, 12:23:43 PM »
The frame will get a thorough inspection before a final decision is made but I don't think it's rusted that bad.  The suspension mounts on the rear are good, I had a broken spring last year and had it all apart to replace the springs.  It does have an in-bed dump box and I mound that thing up all the time with various materials and the frame does just fine.  I'm betting that the frame will be fine unless I find any really thin spots.  The main problem with the truck is the body rot, 32 years or Michigan can be hard on them.  As to the shop, I have the ability to fabricate anything, I have built rock crawlers so doing this project won't be an issue for me.

Offline Engineer

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2017, 02:07:58 PM »
The K30 frame is much heavier in every dimension. The rear springs are narrower on the axle seats.

You will probably find it easier to swap the new body over onto the K30 frame.
2002 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1/ZF6sp RC/LB
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0/4L85E EC/SB
1997 Chevy Blazer 4x4
1994 Chevy K-2500 4x4 C6P 5.7/4L80E
1979 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10
1977 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10 454

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Offline roundhouse

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2017, 05:34:29 AM »
Probably easier to swap the southern body on to the K-30 frame

Up to you how you handle the VIN plate
I've done body swaps like you're considering before and
Used the VIN from the old rusted body since it was already registered
Was a lot of work swapping the whole cab except that corner of the dash ...

You will get a lot of advice and heated opinions on it , everything from no problem , to you're going to jail tomorrow

but a lot depends on how your state inspects the truck , or not . 
In my state , no one inspects or looks at the truck ever , and no title is required on older vehicles, only a bill of sale .

but having  two different VINs on the same truck could be a problem later.

However you do it, just keep it to yourself and don't plaster it all over websites and Facespace etc
 

Offline pbearly

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2017, 05:21:24 AM »
I couldn't agree with you more. 

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2017, 07:13:24 AM »
im one of those that will advise against swapping vins, maybe in my younger years i would say screw it but not now. i've "heard" of people cutting the dashes completely out by popping the window out and removing the seal you will find spot welds every 2" and two bolts on the bottom. this will be a lot of work to drill out each spot weld. but whatever you do dont just cut/grind off the old vin rivets and replace them with regular rivets. they also sell those special rivets for restorations. but nice shinny rivets on a old rusty vin plate look weird
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Offline roundhouse

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Re: 85 K30 / 83 C20 Project advice
« Reply #9 on: December 27, 2017, 07:47:25 PM »
im one of those that will advise against swapping vins, maybe in my younger years i would say screw it but not now. i've "heard" of people cutting the dashes completely out by popping the window out and removing the seal you will find spot welds every 2" and two bolts on the bottom. this will be a lot of work to drill out each spot weld. but whatever you do dont just cut/grind off the old vin rivets and replace them with regular rivets. they also sell those special rivets for restorations. but nice shinny rivets on a old rusty vin plate look weird
I wouldn't swap VINs either
I'd keep the one you have and swap cabs under it

If you remove the rivets from the bottom the top stays old
But no one is going to notice new rivets on a newly painter restored truck

And so if they do ?


You're not hiding a stolen vehicle or attempting to defraud a buyer
  You're using parts from two vehicles to make one good vehicle
  It happens all the time



No difference between swapping a cab and swapping the cargo bed


If you're doing it to defraud someone , that's both illegal and wrong   But you're not and unless you tell someone , no one will ever know

Don't ask, don't tell . Etc etc