Clunk when hitting bumps after new wheels and alignment

[juancano]

1986 C10 2WD

Just got a brand spankin' new set of BF Goodrich AT 31.5 x 10 x 15R (It had the same tires before). I had it done at a proper tire place and had the front end aligned. I brought it back about a week later because the truck steering wheel wasn't returning to center that easily after turning (is that tracking?) and the 'crooked' steering wheel I always had was more crooked. They were nice enough to straighten the steering, check their settings on alignment and grease the front end, no charge.

Now I noticed when driving, suddenly I start getting this clunk sound when hitting bumps (live in new england roads are trash); it sounds from the driver side and I feel it under my left foot under the cab. Obviously there's nothing under the cab.

Any ideas what it could be? I may just take it back to the place to check. I mean they just checked all that stuff. Odd.

Thanks

[JohnnyPopper]

Take a look at your shocks. Why didn't you go with 33's? 

[VileZambonie]

It's a C10, why would you put 33"s?

juancano, If the clunking didn't happen until you had your alignment and returnability became an issue as well, I'd suspect an improper alignment. Look at the shims and make sure the shaft is tight on the upper control arms. Have an assistant rock the steering back and forth while you observe the front end.

[VileZambonie]

Also, where in New England are you?

[JohnnyPopper]

DOH! Was thinking of of a K10.

[juancano]

It has stock height and it seemed 33s would be too much? I mean these tires cost a fortune as they are.

I will try and test it to see if there's any play. Thanks for the tip.

I am in Rhode Island, Warwick.

[juancano]

The shaft and all that seems tight. The wheel itself wobbles when I shake it. I removed it, put it back on methodically and still wobbles.

I read on the interweb that if you press on the brakes and the wheel doesn't wobble, it means the wheel bearings need replacing.

So did that test and yes, when the brake is on, the wheel doesn't wobble at all.

Is the interweb correct?

[Mike81K10]

Rest raising/putting the wheels up like on a bump and look around. Are you missing the rubber bumpers? If not then there is something loose. A joint, bushing, or bolts. You need a thorough inspection. Perhaps also put your truck on a lift and go over it all to find what is loose or broken.

You may also want to check your transmission and engine mounts while you're at it.

[juancano]

After some more reading, it doesn't seem the lose bearing an be causing the clunking. A bad/lose bearing creates a humming or weird constant sound. I'll still fix the bearing on the front left wheel.

Tomorrow or soon I will raise it again and re-check, wiggle, shake and see what esle is going on. Thanks!

[JohnnyPopper]

Is the wobble side to side or top and bottom?

The braking stopping the wobble could suggest that your bearing are just loose. In any case, I would take them apart for inspection. Look for pitting on the rollers and scoring on the races. If clean, repack and keep going.

Your first post said you got an alignment right? Being a former alignment mechanic I can't believe they didn't inspect the entire front end before taking your money...

I would ask for my money back.

[juancano]

Yeah, I am surprised. Also, the clunking didn't exist before the alignment. A part of me wants to take it back and have them figure it out, while the other part wants to be all DIY and fix it.

I jacked it up and put a 2x4 with a chunk of wood for leverage and tried to wiggle the whole thing, no clunking. I then took a crowbar and tried prying the different struts and sway bars to check for lose parts. Didn't find anything.

The driver side wheel wiggles side to side a tiny bit, but it also moves if I grab the top and bottom, and that makes a tiny clunk. I checked the passenger side wheel and that one moves side to side the same amount but has zero top to bottom wiggle.

I am going to do the bearing on the driver side, to learn how to do it. I was just going to buy a new one and put it in but it seems there are many types? I was at Rock Auto and was a bit overwhelmed by the choices!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1986,c10+pickup,5.7l+350cid+v8,1031050,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672

Thanks

[JohnnyPopper]

If you have movement you should be able to see it physically. Have a cohort do the movement while you watch.

If the wheel moves without the spindle moving it's the bearing.

If there are loose components you will see the movement in them.

With both tires up, pull the front of the tires toward each other, and then away from each other to test the idler arm. If it moves up and down it needs replacing. That will most likely NOT be the clunking noise.

I would look for youtube videos on bearing work. You will need the correct tools to R&R the races, as in a bronze punch tool.

I would inspect the inner and outer bearings beforehand.

Doing so will give you a chance to see the part number on each that you can cross reference for replacements if needed.

[juancano]

Update; decided to take back to the shop; they drove it around and didn't har any clunking. He checked everything nothing lose. I talked to the tech and he said the front end looks like it was rebuilt in recent years (I've had the truck for 3 years). I've been driving it and the clunking is less. Maybe it's in my head. I am going to check the u-joints that hold the transmission too.

One nice thing is the tech said something was leaking on the right side, probably trans fluid. I checked this weekend and the hose for the auxiliary trans cooler had a crack. Now working on replacing the hose.

[VileZambonie]

I think you need to find another shop to take your truck to.

[JohnnyPopper]

Ditto on a new mechanic.

Especially if he missed what sounded like play in your wheels.