Author Topic: Need help with how to route my trans line, with motor/trans already installed  (Read 3526 times)

Offline 74k20

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1st off - this is NOT a show truck, so YES there are detail error in the engine bay.  I'll work on them over time.  '74 k20, sb400/th350/np203

Ok so I could use some help here.  Due to delays on the various build aspects, I had to try and make as much progress as I could, with what I had.  Basically I installed the motor, while the trans was being worked over.  Installed the trans separately. Now hoping to get my t-case this week, and HOPING to fire up this weekend.

So I removed my old motor trans as a unit, then removed the factory trans lines while out of the truck.  I installed the motor 1st this time, and installed the trans a week or so later, now I want to install my trans lines in the factory route.  I’ve got my old lines and new straight lines ready to bend.  BUT HOW do I snake the lines next to my fuel pump, under my motor-mount, hooked to the oil pan, and around the starter, in factory routing?  I already removed the header, could remove the fuel pump and/or starter, but HOW do I lift up and remove the motor mounts, and still “hopefully” be able to snake the line in?

Or am I stuck now with going flexible braided lines?  YEP I messed up the install order.

Offline bake74

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     Wow, that is a tight squeeze by the look of the pic.  You might not want to hear this, but if it was me I would pull the motor and get them in the right spot with the right connections.  But I am a little butt headed when it comes to details sometimes.   :P
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline 74k20

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That's where I'm on the fence.  If I just "go-for-it" and stop wasting time "trying" to figure it out, I would be done.  Bet I could just leave the rear trans mounts loose, and raise the motor up as high as possible.  Thus giving me room to remove the motor mount also.  I could leave a lot of the engine bay stuff hooked up such as wires, and only remove minimal stuff needed.  then snake the new line in and do it properly.

Anyone else got any ideas?  Can I bend only some bends, enough get loaded, then bend the rest once in the spot?

Or I spend MORE money (already WAY over budget), and go the flex braided lines which will still take time and hassle due to finding a good route.

Offline HAULIN IT

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I have to say it's been a while since I looked at the "factory correct" location of the trans. lines on our trucks. I do seem to remember them having a few "un-needed" bends. One thing that comes to mind...the motor mount bracket & crossmember un-bolt fairly easily. I would think about holding up the Right side of the engine (chain to the front header bolt or similar. block of wood/jack under oil pan would likely work, but wouldn't be my first plan) & then unbolt the through-bolt on the mount & the 6-8 holding the bracket on the frame...you might need to drop the crossmember out also. Install the lines & re-install the mount/bracket?? Good Luck...hope this works for you, Lorne 
 

Offline Captkaos

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I was able to snake lines into my 85 K5 for the Diesel setup, but it was NOT easy.  I got it in there though..  This was with the drivetrain still in, but the Diesel swaps sides...

Offline 74k20

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I ended up trying to bend my own lines and really messed it up (1st time bending and using a cheap bender).  So I just ordered a set off Summit that showed it worked.  It was a slightly different bend then what came out of the truck, but it actually snaked under and WORKED - YIPPY.

Offline fitz

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Glad to hear it worked. Did you get your transfer case in yet?

Offline 74k20

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Things have been going rather BAD since this post.  I tried not to continue and start a drama post.  BUT YEP I got it all installed (new motor, fresh trans/t-case, new drivelines, new exhaust, serviced front/rear diffs ect ect ect.  The NICE new mild built sb400 fired right up and sounded awesome.  BUT upon driving it had a SERIOUS detonation knock that I couldn't seem to get out.  I tried everything timing wise carb ect that I could during the 1 WEEK of testing/debugging.  Well upon my last trip down the road, from my final de-bugging attempt.  It totally catastrophically blew up.  Enough white smoke out the tail pipe the fire dept showed up along the highway.  Dents in oil pan, chunks rattling around, bits of metal out header (upon pulling motor).  I mean BAD....

Towed it home and grabbed a crate motor I had on my work bench.  Got it running/driving again for now, but the motor went back to the motor builder shop for evaluation of WHY this happened.  Only thing I can come up with, was the 230psi compression I tested the morning of the blow up was due to seriously wrong compression ration and/or cam timing gears wrong.

Motor sounded AWESOME but with a huge lack in power and the detonation I couldn't get out.  YEP I had a bad day, and wife is NOT happy about all the money that went by/by, especially when I had a motor on the shelf the whole time I could have used.  Now to wait the results from the builder and to figure out if anything can be salvaged.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2014, 03:30:07 PM by 74k20 »

Offline bake74

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     That sucks, keep us informed as to what happened.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom