1980 4wd light indicator switch

[Spikemike]

Hi, I had read an older thread about the 4wd indicator switch that screws into the top of the transfer case being substituted with a switch from a 1969 camaro cowl induction switch.  I have my dad's 1980 chev scottsdale with 350 and 4wd with locking front hubs and the switch had gone but new replacement switch is almost $200. I ordered the camaro switch online and have it now, but my question for those who have used the camaro switch is how do you modify it to attach properly to the transfer case? My attached photo shows the original switch at top which threads into the top of the transfer case.  The threads on the camaro switch are larger diameter and the retainer clip which came along with the camaro switch has nothing to anchor it to the tranfer case like the bracket in the camaro cowl induction setup.  Does the plastic thread of the camaro need to be recut to the original steel thread size to screw it in properly and can that be done without wrecking it.  I have no experience with this but my dad who passed away recently bought this truck new and to me it is and always will be part of our heritage and i would love to have it working even if it is just a dash light switch.  $200 just seems like alot if you know what i mean.  Thanks for any help.

[JohnnyPopper]

Sorry about your dad, about to lose mine.

Drill out the hole of the bracket to allow the Camaro to fit.

Use two nuts to adjust the throw to the distance of the original.

In other words, the original did not need adjustment, it was designed to be installed and forgotten.

The new one has more thread. You will need to sandwich the bracket between two nuts for the correct position.

Just hope that there is clearance for the rest of the long Camaro switch.

[Spikemike]

Hello JohnnyPopper, thanks so much for the reply.  I took a couple more pictures to clarify my question.   I actually only received the new camaro switch with a retainer ring.  In the first photo, it shows the 2 pieces.  There was no bracket and the second photo shows the view from the cab looking down through the floorboard where the rubber dust boot was removed around the 4wd gear lever which goes down to the transfer case.  I circled the threaded hole on the top of the transfer case where the original switch threads in.  There is nowhere to mount a bracket here unless something were welded and I don't really want to do that.  Is there some type of other clip or cheap mount which would hold the switch in place that I am not aware of maybe?  Or perhaps I misunderstood the type of transfer case where this camaro switch was used in the old thread on this website and is different than the one in my Dad's truck.  Sorry, but I don't have alot of expertise in this area.  I certainly don't want to wreck anything and may end up spending the $200 to just get one that screws in like the original.  My Dad took really good care of this truck and he was a little bit reluctant to spend the $200 for the switch also   but I am determined one way or the other to fix it.  Thanks again for any thoughts and suggestions.

[Mike81K10]

I found a switch like your OEM.

FOUR WHEEL DRIVE INDICATOR LIGHT SWITCH
Part #: 14024304

There may be other places that have them as well.

I noticed some Dodge Ram Trucks have an indicator light switch that looks similar as well and are inexpensive. Do a search on them.

[JohnnyPopper]

I didn't realize that yours screwed into the case. I think mine is on a bracket that engages part of the linkage, ergo my advice to drill it out.

Having said that, I don't think you can adapt the Camaro switch without some serious engineering.

Mike's advice is pry the best course.

Do you still have your old one?

[Spikemike]

Hi, yes, I think my best option is unfortunately the more expensive one.  The old switch which I have still looks in good shape on the outside, but something internally has gone as there is no continuity in the circuit.  I think the steel plunger at the end which engages the switch may be the issue.  I connected the camaro switch to test and it works great, but that switch fix must be for an older transfer case different from my Dads 1980 Scottsdale.  This truck has the heavy duty suspension package with the 350 4 bbl carb so I believe possibly it is designated a K20? Not sure if that made a difference in the type of transmission and transfer case in it?  I'm just sort of learning as I go because my Dad knew all about that and unfortunately isn't able to tell me anymore.  Thanks to all for your suggestions and directing me to a spot which sells the proper replacements!

[JohnnyPopper]

Curious about the spring on the end of the one pictured- does it come off?

The part/pic Mike provided doesn't look long enough to support the spring.

Is the build sheet in your glove box still there? Blue and white with a bunch of data on the build. It has a name I can't recall atm.

It will say what xfer case it came with, assuming there were options.

Finally, the number of lug nuts will indicate if it's 1/2 ton (6) or heavier duty (.

Long shot- you could plunge the shaft rapidly while spraying brake cleaner into the opening. Do both positions with the shaft on top then inverted. Could just be gunked up.

[Spikemike]

Hi, sorry for the late reply... yes the spring slips off.  Apparently the spring is necessary to create the necessary tension inside the transfer where the lever engages?  I did try cleaning it but the brake cleaner sounds like a good idea to try.  The build sheet in the glove box has the code MX1 which when looked up shows, " Transmission Automatic (Merchandising option) ".  So that doesn't seem to clearly identify the specific model of transmission and transfer case but it must be either a TH350 of TH400 I assume and also must assume it has the NP205 transfer case.  I checked out all the other Codes on the sticker and know that it is a Canadian built in Oshawa K20 3/4 ton and my Dad must have ordered a few options like heavy duty front springs and heavy duty power brakes.  We used to ship pigs to market with it on our farm and the snow from the Lake Huron lake-effect flurries used to get alot deeper back then, thus the need for heavy duty 4wd.  For sure now I understand the camaro switch would have worked on an earlier gm truck with different transfer case but not this one.  My goof as I should have looked into it a little more before ordering.  I proceeded to try and order the repro switch from Lectric Ltd. which Mike had suggested but the company that supplied Lectric Ltd. these switches has gone out of business and no one has stock anymore.  My last step involved searching Ebay and I found a fellow in Kansas selling used ones and have ordered his last one for $80 US .  It is guaranteed to work and has been tested so I hope it will function well.  It seems this may be the only way to get one anymore.  I will update once I receive it and install.  Thanks to all for your suggestions and advice!

[JohnnyPopper]

That's much less than 200.00! Good score!

While there are a ton of aftermarket part, I fear little things like this will continue to diminish in availability.

There is a fellow SB lover on this site that has grown her collection to 7! Da noyve!

[Spikemike]

Update:  The switch I received from ebay seller was very similar to the original for the chevy transfer case but when I installed it , the switch open position was reversed from the original.  The seller let me know that this switch was out of a dodge truck similar era and that should work fine for the transfer case but we discovered it didn't.  The seller was great and gave me money back after I shipped it back.  I guess long story short is that I will need to find a working switch from an old transfer case or wait until and aftermarket company decides it might be worth reproducing one.  In the meantime I will have to check with wreckers and old-timers who might have one laying around yet or if anyone out there reading this knows of one for sale please let me know.

[Spikemike]

FYI : anyone interested if facing similar situation... the photo shows on top the original indicator switch out of the 1980 Chev transfer case and the ebay dodge replacement which was so close to working but open switch position reversed,  on the bottom.

[JohnnyPopper]

So here is the functionality of each switch. The OEM closes, the alternate opens the circuit.

If you want,  I can help you create a circuit to  mimic the OEM, using the alternate switch.

I suspect the contacts on the OEM switch are contaminated, So much that a direct intervention is needed.

Using a drill press with a clamping tool, drill a minuscule hole into the mid flat area left of the knurled seal on the switch, and then opposite one on the other side. The press will enable you to drill without damaging anything inside as you control how far down you drill-watch carefully

The knurled switch is the plastic plug that has the contacts inside and spade lugs on the outside. It was knurled into the metal body.

Once you have access, use brake cleaner to flow across the interior body, causing contaminants to flow out of the other side.

Blow out with compressed air and test continuity. If it works, seal with JB weld or equivalent. If it doesn't work take a 5 lb sledge hammer and put it out of it's misery. 

[Spikemike]

Thanks so much for that suggestion, it is worth a try!  The sledgehammer is also a good final suggestion! 

[Captkaos]

could you not reverse the wires to make it work?

[JohnnyPopper]

I think the stock one is N/O normally open and the one he found is N/C.

He could build an outboard relay circuit to make the latter work.