Recent Posts

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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc
« Last post by Mike81K10 on Today at 03:06:48 PM »
Well, will start putting my new engine together soon. Has anyone ran the Rochester Carburetor on a performance 383 stroker? Just wondering if I need a 750 as is recommended. Also was wondering if I need or should get an aluminum water pump. I have a cast iron one that is not all that old and it was a performance pump (higher volume) than normal.

Here is a few pics! I have to figure out what size push rods I need and am waiting on some ARP bolts to come in.
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Hi, Great, I will pull it in and check those items. Thanks Guys
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: New distributor, now starts hard. 89 7.4 TBI
« Last post by Chevygold on Today at 12:05:46 PM »
Check that you have 12v at the BAT terminal on the distributor in the start and run positions.
Graham
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: New distributor, now starts hard. 89 7.4 TBI
« Last post by Shifty on Today at 09:21:28 AM »
First, check the firing order.  Second, make sure the distributor is tightened down.  Third, (and the most likely) is the timing is off a few degrees. 
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: No vac dizzy
« Last post by Chevygold on Today at 05:03:58 AM »
Ran the following tests on the existing unit and everything tested good pick up was 500 ohms and infinity to ground on both wires, BAT to TAC gave 0.5 ohms and infinity to ground so coil looks good so while I'm waiting for the MSD I'm putting it all back as was just in case I need to move the truck. Will check everything over on the MSD when I get it, all I'm waiting for now is a set of plugs and a selection of plug sockets to deal with the awkward one!
Graham
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Engine/Drivetrain / New distributor, now starts hard. 89 7.4 TBI
« Last post by 8d9SquareCrew on Today at 12:03:06 AM »
I recently had a local shop do a tune-up. They replaced the distributor while they were there. Now it will crank and crank and only starts the moment key is turned to run position. It's like no spark while cranking. It seems I should be able to unplug the connector at the distributor and test for cranking voltage, and run voltage. But I don't know which plugs are supposed to have 12 volts. It always started very quickly before this. Thanks in advance for any light anyone can shed on this.
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: No vac dizzy
« Last post by VileZambonie on April 15, 2024, 04:06:16 PM »
Make sure you ohm the pickup coil before replacing the module.
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: No vac dizzy
« Last post by VileZambonie on April 15, 2024, 04:04:52 PM »
The HEI/EST is used on models with Computer Command Control (C-3) or Electronic Fuel Injection systems. The system utilizes a distributor similar to the unit used with conventional HEI systems that has been modified to allow spark advance to be controlled by the fuel control system Electronic Control Module (ECM). Modifications to the distributor include a revised ignition module, with additional terminals to receive signals from the ECM, and the elimination of the conventional centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms. In addition, some models use a Hall effect switch mounted above the pickup coil in the distributor to provide a reference pulse to the ECM. The ignition coil on HEI/EST systems is mounted either integral with the distributor, Fig. 1, or remotely mounted, Fig. 2, depending upon engine and application.
Primary current switching in the HEI/EST system is performed by the ignition module based on reference pulses from the pickup coil as in conventional HEI systems. However, all spark timing changes in the HEI/EST system are performed electronically by the Electronic Control Module (ECM). The ECM monitors information from various engine and vehicle sensors, determines the correct spark timing and signals the distributor to change timing as necessary. An EST bypass circuit is incorporated into the ignition module to allow ignition in case of ECM failure and to allow base timing adjustment.
On some HEI-EST systems, Electronic Spark Control (ESC) is used to retard ignition timing when detonation occurs. The ESC system consists of a knock sensor, distributor module and controller. The knock sensor is an accelerometer or magneto-strictive device, mounted on the engine block. It detects the presence and intensity of detonation by vibration characteristics of the engine. The sensor's output is an electrical signal which is sent to the controller. The controller is a hard-wired signal processor and amplifier which operates from 6 to 16 volts. The ESC controller processes the sensor signal into a command signal to the distributor to adjust spark timing. This is a continuous process monitoring and controlling detonation.
When detonation is detected the spark advance command is delayed, providing the level of retard required. The spark is retarded for 20 seconds, then the spark control returns to EST. The amount of retard is determined by the controller based on the severity of detonation. A failure of the sensor would allow no retard, while controller failure would be indicated by no ignition, no retard or full retard.
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: No vac dizzy
« Last post by Chevygold on April 15, 2024, 02:54:38 PM »
So I won this MSD 8362 Distributor Street Fire on fleabay for £89 needs the ICM replaced which I happen to have so figers crossed it all goes according to plan, I could do with a stroke of good luck for a change, got a set of plugs on order as I broke 2 getting them out, the joys of headers!
Will update once it's all back together.
Graham
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Diesel Engine Discussion / Re: 84 k30 Project
« Last post by KamperBob on April 14, 2024, 08:08:15 PM »
More updates:

#3 dash progress is inching forward. The gauge cluster is mostly working now. New speedometer expected this week. Fan blows but vibrates so inspect/clean soon. Meanwhile, ducts sourced and reconstructed. Vacuum controls still need attention to select vents. AC will stay disconnected until that service makes my list. It's still cool in SoCal high desert so no hurry. Yet.

#5 wheels also progressing. I decided against 33" 16.5x12.5 wheels. Too big. Not enough front clearance. Got some deep dish Dodge rims that center nicely after 1.5" bolt on spacers. New stock size LT235/85-16 tires on order.

#6 issue is steering. Slop probably from blown boot on main link from the pitman arm. Hopefully tear into that this week.

It's exciting to see the old truck has good bones. Moreover, how serviceable it is, especially by an amateur mechanic.

PS- sorry; non diesel engine issues off topic for this channel...
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