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You want you quench to be about 0.040" for steel connecting rods. You can push it a little tighter on engines that don't push over 6,000 RPM to something as little as 0.032" quench. If you have aluminum connecting rods, they stretch more than steel connecting rods and now you are looking at an ideal quench of around 0.050" - 0.065" quench. It isn't uncommon to see old engines that had a much larger measurement than this. Current engine theory shows that having a smaller quench area is much better for overall efficiency and reduces significantly the amount of un-burnt gases. Old school theory used larger quench to reduce compression and slow the burn rate to reduce detonation, but that proved to be counter-productive.No problem with 10.1:1 compression, it all just depends on what cam you are running and what octane of fuel you plan to run. Check you piston to valve clearances!
With your LT4 Hot Cam and your engine specs, you might be okay with 87 octane, but could be on the edge of detonation. Your dynamic compression is right at about 8.0:1 if your intake valve closes at 65° ABDC. Advertised valve events on GM cams can be hard to find. Your aluminum heads allow you to bump up the compression ratio a little more due to the increased heat rejection.Be prepared to either run higher octane fuel than regular 87 or play with the timing, possibly retarding the camshaft a few degrees, or running thicker head gaskets. Those thin shim gaskets can sometimes be tricky to keep from coolant leaks. Make sure you re-torque the head bolts after you break it in.
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I'll run higher octane if I need to.As for the shim head gaskets, those are the same as I used on the first engine I ever rebuilt: a 283 in a '57 Chevy wagon in 1969. To us, rebuilding consisted of reaming the ridge, honing cylinders,de-carboning ring grooves, and reassembling with new rings,bearings and gaskets. We had no telescoping gauges, micrometers or calipers, dial indicators, etc. Just a beam torque wrench and a bunch of energy..............