floorboard replacement ( more questions)

[rolson1039]

do you weld the new ones in spot weld and  use adhesieve on them too  or  screw and spot weld or what?
My  body supports are gone too  do i put them in  first welded  then do the floor boards  or what?
will an electric welder do? and what kind? do i need to take the  cab off the frame for all this?
is there any other hints or tips i need to know?  im reasonably handy and  will be trying this myself
thanks in advance for any help

[DixieOffroad87]

on our camaro we put in a new floorboard on the passenger side we riveted the new one in and then used bondo and fiberglass to fill in  

[smiley]

When doing my floors on my 1980 I replaced the body mounts also.  I stick welded the mounts in first and then taked the replacement panel on afterwards.  Once the tack welds were about 2 inches apart I purchased a heavy duty seam sealer covered all the edges.  Make sure the metal underneath your door where the body mount welds to is not rusted.  I had to fabricate a new peice for mine. If you can I would just cut out the rusted areas and replace those parts instead of cutting your whole floor up so you have some orginal metal to align the new panel with.  Plus you still have the suport needed.

[rolson1039]

ok ill give your way a try although in spots i dont have much to cut away as its all rotted  the entire left side  rocker panel and innre rocker is gone  and the  body mounts are half gone...  this truck is going to be a real project lol
the right side  is only suffering from a real bad  damage to the cab support and a softball size hole int he floorboard as well as the outer rocker

[Blazin]

When I rebuild a cab the first thing I do is strip the doors, inner, and outer fenders off. If the gap between the door and fender is bigger at the bottom than at the top then the cab has probably sunk on the frame. If it has then jack it up to line up that gap even, then temp. support it. Next I cut out all the rust no matter how much. If you think that you are taking support out don't worry you can replace it. The next thing I do is sand blast with a pressure blaster, all the repair area to get rid of any surface rust and it is easier to strip paint, old body filler etc. off this way than to grind, grinding will work if you don't have access to a blaster. Then I temp. place the floor support, floor pan in place. These parts seldom fit perfect, you will have to trim them or cut them smaller. If you don't need a section cut it off. having two layers of metal will only attract rust. I cut the pan to over lap between 1/2" to an 1" you might have to bend it a little too. If you can buy a pan with most of the inner rocker stamped in that would be best. You can buy the inner rocker or make it to continue where the floor pan one leaves off. once the floor fits you can mark the floor suport if it needs to be cut and mark where it will land so it can be welded at the correct hight. You might need to make a small patch to weld the outer end of the suport to. once the suport is in place I screw with self tappers the floor pan in place I start where it fits best and work my way around and make it fit tight against the old floor. Then I weld it in, you have to use judgment and eye ball the area where the outer rocker welds on. Next is the inner rocker if it needs it this will also cover some of the common rust that runs along the side of the seat area where the gasket sits. I temp. place the inner and the outer at the same time. I use screws to do this then I bolt on my new door make shure it lines up good down the back and across the top. Then I adjust the rocker to line up good up and down and in and out. I drill 1/4 holes along the pich weld area so I can spot weld the inner and outer together. I usually trim the cab corner and make if fit good at this point too. You can check you fit just by holding it up in place for now. the same goes for these don't use any more of of the replacement peice than you need. Once the rocker fits I remove the door shell and weld the rocker on. Then get the cab corner srewed in place if you need the inner cab corner get it fit as well. The cab cornners are made to lay over the back edge of the rocker. Drill some holes in the door jamb edge and the pinch weld edge of the corner so you can spot weld that edge no need to solid weld it and if you do its a pain to grind in the corner leave your bottom spot up enough so the grinding wheel fits in there. I also don't weld the bottom pinch weld area where the corner and the rocker meet if you look at a factory joint you can see it, it is not welded just seam sealed. Spot weld the bottom edge and solid weld the top and face joint. Then you do your body work. Bolt on you new panels and you rust free. Sorry so long but if you are going to do something do it right.    

[81chevy]

I am wondering where you guys purchased your cab floor supports(the full unit with the bends for the seat mount).
Every where i look In Winnipeg dosen't have any and can't get any from anywhere. thx

[rolson1039]

wow Blazin that is one detailed way of doin it and im gonna try your way. I appreciate this  thanks.
Im going to get my floorboards and supports and even the mounts through this board store i assume they are good ?

[Blazin]

81 not shure, have never seen them to buy. I just make my own out of angle iron. P.S. rolson, before I screw the floor down I lay it in place and mark the floor suport that runs back towards the tank and the floor/rocker suport that runs from the cab mount out to the inner rocker. Then I drill 1/4 or so holes in the floor pan so that when it is in place you spot weld the floor down to them. Good luck.