Rock light how to wire

[Payton1979Silverado350]

A friend of mine recently bought me rock lights for my truck and I was trying to fine a video or anything saying how theses should be wired. I have a 1979 Silverado 3/4ton K20.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a video or could tell me where on the truck and how I should attach power to the receiver ?
To be more specific I was wondering if I wired it straight to the battery would it kill the battery

[bd]

What is your intended purpose for the lights - trailer hookup, backing, or _____________?  At the very least, they need to be wired through suitably gauged wire and protected by an appropriately rated fuse.

[Payton1979Silverado350]

What is your intended purpose for the lights - trailer hookup, backing, or _____________?  At the very least, they need to be wired through suitably gauged wire and protected by an appropriately rated fuse.

They would be just as a showy thing and I think they would take up the same power as a 3 ft light bar


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[TonimusMaximus]

I had to Google "truck rock lights" to figure out what the heck you were talking about. For their intended purpose of being showy, you'd be fine tapping into any of the accessory spots on the fuse block, running that through a fuse and a toggle, then to your lights.

[VileZambonie]

This is a rock light

[bd]

I nearly spit out my coffee!!  LOL

[VileZambonie]

 

[Payton1979Silverado350]

https://www.cjponyparts.com/oracle-lighting-underbody-rock-light-led-colorshift-bluetooth-8-piece-kit/p/5797333/?year=2015&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI05r85ov71gIVmkwNCh3njAX2EAQYASABEgIJKfD_BwE


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[Payton1979Silverado350]

These are the lights most similar to the ones I bought


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[bd]

The Oracle lamps that you linked are a 75-watt set that will net ~6 amps of current draw, likely protected by a 10- to 15-amp fuse.  Assuming your set uses a distribution hub similar to the Oracle lamp kit, the B+ wire feeding the hub should be 16 gauge minimum, 14 gauge recommended.  You have two options on the lamp control wiring:  1) install a switch possessing a DC current rating of ~200% of the lamp draw for direct control of the lamps, or 2) use a switch controlled 5-pin relay to power the lamps.  Both methods have advantages and disadvantages, but with a <10-amp draw, either approach is suitable. 

Direct switch control requires a switch possessing a DC current rating greater than the fuse that protects the circuit.  The power wire should be 16 to 14 gauge running between the power source, the switch and the lamp hub.  You can source power from one of the power taps in the fuse box (B+, I+ or Accessory) once you decide if you want the ignition switch to impose any control over when the lamps can be energized.  An inline fuse rated for ~150% of the lamp draw must be installed near the power tap.

Although direct switch control is easier and less costly to install, the switch controlled relay, depending on installation, can provide a more direct current path to the load while decreasing the current burden on the control switch and its wire to ~1 amp.  If a relay is installed in the engine compartment, the fused B+ feed wire from the battery positive terminal through the relay to the lamp hub should still be 14 to 16 gauge, but the relay control wire running into the driver operated switch can be reduced to 18 gauge.  As with the direct switch control method described in the preceding paragraph, control power into the switch can be sourced from one of the power taps in the fuse box, but you won't need to install an inline fuse between the fuse box and the switch.