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« Last post by kopeck on May 07, 2024, 07:09:46 PM »
I cleaned and lubed the top cable, and it made things better, but the bottom one was really making a racket. I may try it, though, since it really won't cost anything. It also looks like no one local has one that will fit so I'll need to order, so it could save me some time.
K
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« Last post by Captkaos on May 07, 2024, 12:19:46 PM »
Definitely have to pull the starter to get to the solenoid.
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« Last post by bd on May 07, 2024, 08:52:55 AM »
If the only issue is noise, have you considered removing the cables from the housings to clean and lubricate them? You'll need needle nose pliers, a clean disposable cloth rag, a can of aerosol carburetor cleaner, and lightweight lithium grease. It might be cheaper than replacing the cables if you already possess most of the materials. Otherwise, a one-piece cable of the appropriate length is a good solution. Look for a cable having the same type of termination at the speedometer head as the original. Some factory cables terminated in a molded square-shank nylon key that engaged the speedometer. Many aftermarket cables are missing the nylon termination and can introduce a bouncy speedometer needle due to poor fit, so beware.
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« Last post by kopeck on May 07, 2024, 07:15:27 AM »
It sounds like I just need to find a one-piece that is the same length or a bit longer than what I already have, and I don't lose sleep over it.
K
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 06, 2024, 08:00:54 PM »
Thanks for clarifying why!
I have never used aluminum heads before nor guide plates. My prior engines were Gen I flat tappet cam engines with iron heads. I am learning some new things with this engine build that I did not know prior. My prior build was easier to deal with and this one is becoming much more expensive.
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« Last post by Mr Diesel on May 06, 2024, 07:46:15 PM »
I have never figured out the rhyme or reason with the two pieces speedometer cables, but based on my experience with these trucks and other GM products from the same time frame I am of the opinion that they were originally designed for GM products that split the cable at the cruise control box. Later GM cruise control product design made the two piece obsolete but it seems they kept using the two piece for some time anyway, presumably to deplete existing stock. Seems like all the common aftermarket cables are just one piece, unless you need a two piece for old cruise control.
I also could be wrong about all that and am all ears if someone knows different.
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Yes because you have guide plates.
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« Last post by kopeck on May 06, 2024, 04:21:54 PM »
No cruse on this guy, good old Custom Deluxe. My Grandfather didn't believe in features.  I only find one option for upper/lower in my year. K
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 06, 2024, 04:12:40 PM »
Guess I must have looked at the wrong ones. Thanks!
AFR and Scorpion informed me that I have to use after market hardened 5/16", chromemolly, heat treated, thick walled push rods for my engine.
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