1987 Silverado 4x4 - Fuel Gauge doesn't read correct? Gauge Resistor Problem?

[Mike Phillips]

1987 Silverado 4x4 - Fuel Gauge doesn't read correct?  Gauge Resistor Problem?


Yesterday I removed the dash pad and then removed the instrument gauge cluster in order remove the speedometer cable so I can install a new speedometer cable.

Right now while the dash is all apart, I'd like to try to fix this issue.

A while back I was working on a fuel leak on the top of the gas tank in another thread.  I added to that thread that the gauge wasn't working.  One of the forum members posted this,

Sounds like a broken resistor on the back of the fuel gauge. 

http://secure.classichq.com/RESISTOR-CONSOLE-FUEL-GAUGE--P816.aspx

Here's a picture of the part Rich linked to.  If I order this part, while my dash is apart is it fairly self-explanatory how to attach this part?



This is new stuff to me.  The gauge didn't work when I bought the truck and I don't know any other issue surrounding the gauge.



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[Mike Phillips]

While I'm at it and I have this thread started, the charge gauge doesn't work either.

[Chuck Step-a-side]

I had the same problem and found that the bulk wire connectors that snap into the instrument circuit board sheet were not aligning to the foil contact on the circuit sheet. I took an eraser to all the copper foil contacts on the instrument and carefully cleaned each foil contact (don't rub too hard and hold each end when rubbing with the eraser or start from the middle and then out to prevent breaking the copper foil). The reconnecting and making sure that the bulk connector and the circuit sheet aligned to the wires on the bulk. This may not be your answer, but it wouldn't hurt to double check.
Do your self a favor while you have the instrument gauge apart, buy some bright aluminum paint and pull off the gauges and paint the plastic housing inside (including the backside of the plastic cover that goes over the gauge). This will brighten the light in your instrument panel. I have replace the cluster lamps with deep purple LED and now it's bright, even in the daylight.

[hatzie]

The bias resistors are mounted directly on the back of the gauge canister.  You won't see em till you remove the gauge from the cluster bucket.

You may have problems with the power and ground splices for the cluster connector.  Multiple Ignition and multiple Ground wires that run to the cluster plug meet in two separate splices about 6-18" back in the harness.  Each continue from their splice as a single wire.  One as a single IGN wire to the Fuse panel and the other as a single GND wire to the Ground buss bar under the dash.
Be sure the several 12V ignition wires and the several ground wires are all making contact at their splices. 

You can use a pencil eraser fairly aggressively on the bow terminals at the cluster plug to remove most corrosion.  I'd wipe on a very thin layer of vaseline or sil-glyde on all of the terminals after cleaning to keep out the oxygen. 
Be extremely careful of the printed circuit side.  Wipe them off with some lemon juice on a soft cloth and then some baking soda and water on another cloth.  Finish up with an isopropyl alcohol wipe down and more vaseline or sil-glyde.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys... I'll check out everything shared and see if I can find the issues and then fix them.

 I have replace the cluster lamps with deep purple LED and now it's bright, even in the daylight.

Where do you get these purple LED lights?  Do they replace the factory bulbs?  As in a direct plug and play?