Recent Posts

1

73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks / Re: 75 K20 starter solenoid

« Last post by Captkaos on Today at 12:19:46 PM »

Definitely have to pull the starter to get to the solenoid.

2

Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by bd on Today at 08:52:55 AM »

If the only issue is noise, have you considered removing the cables from the housings to clean and lubricate them?  You'll need needle nose pliers, a clean disposable cloth rag, a can of aerosol carburetor cleaner, and lightweight lithium grease.  It might be cheaper than replacing the cables if you already possess most of the materials.  Otherwise, a one-piece cable of the appropriate length is a good solution.  Look for a cable having the same type of termination at the speedometer head as the original.  Some factory cables terminated in a molded square-shank nylon key that engaged the speedometer.  Many aftermarket cables are missing the nylon termination and can introduce a bouncy speedometer needle due to poor fit, so beware.

3

Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by kopeck on Today at 07:15:27 AM »

It sounds like I just need to find a one-piece that is the same length or a bit longer than what I already have, and I don't lose sleep over it.

K

4

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 06, 2024, 08:00:54 PM »

Thanks for clarifying why!

I have never used aluminum heads before nor guide plates. My prior engines were Gen I flat tappet cam engines with iron heads. I am learning some new things with this engine build that I did not know prior. My prior build was easier to deal with and this one is becoming much more expensive.

5

Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by Mr Diesel on May 06, 2024, 07:46:15 PM »

I have never figured out the rhyme or reason with the two pieces speedometer cables, but based on my experience with these trucks and other GM products from the same time frame I am of the opinion that they were originally designed for GM products that split the cable at the cruise control box. Later GM cruise control product design made the two piece obsolete but it seems they kept using the two piece for some time anyway, presumably to deplete existing stock. Seems like all the common aftermarket  cables are just one piece, unless  you need a two piece for old cruise control.

I also could be wrong about all that and am all ears if someone knows different.

6

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by VileZambonie on May 06, 2024, 05:49:13 PM »

Yes because you have guide plates.

7

Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by kopeck on May 06, 2024, 04:21:54 PM »

No cruse on this guy, good old Custom Deluxe.  My Grandfather didn't believe in features. 

I only find one option for upper/lower in my year. 

K

8

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 06, 2024, 04:12:40 PM »

Guess I must have looked at the wrong ones. Thanks!

AFR and Scorpion informed me that I have to use after market hardened 5/16", chromemolly, heat treated, thick walled push rods for my engine.

9

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by VileZambonie on May 06, 2024, 04:03:43 PM »

I checked out the 1995 Cprice  5.7L engine and the pushrods run just over 7.8 in length

That's not correct: MPR373

Overall Length (in): 7.195 Inch
Overall Length (mm): 183mm
Shaft Diameter (in): 5/16 Inch
Shaft Diameter (mm): 7.92mm
Top Tip Type: Ball
Bottom Tip Type: Ball
Top Tip Diameter (in): 0.312 Inch
Top Tip Diameter (mm): 8mm
Bottom Tip Diameter (in): 0.312 Inch
Bottom Tip Diameter (mm): 8mm
Wall Thickness (in): 0.060 Inch
Wall Thickness (mm): 1.524mm
Oversize (in): 0 Inch
Oversize (mm): 0mm
Material: Steel
Drilled: Yes