headliner question

[1983stepside]

I would not recommend getting a pre-made box for the sub.  It may not fit and sometimes the airspace is not correct depending on the sub.  I would look into making my own box.

well the sub and box are one unit already installed in the box, so id figure that it would be ok to use

[ME83silverado]

Id say go with putting a flag up there as your headliner. I put the South Carolina state flag in as my headliner, I constantly get compliments and it looks really sweet. Also put the old Georgia flag in a buddies truck and a pirate flag in another buddies truck. Pretty sweet little one of a kind touch I think.

[werewolfx13]

What type of music do you primarily listen to? Whats your budget? Have you fully deadened the interior yet? What headunit do you currently have? Do you want clarity with enough potential volume to damage your hearing, or just stupidly loud volume with little regard to clarity and imaging? I don't believe the kick panels Chris sells are setup for component tweets (yet?), so you'd have to sacrifice some quality and go with coaxials if you don't want to get really involved with tweeter placement and aiming, but unless you're ready to drop $500 on sound deadening if you haven't already, (Cascade is the best, hands down, and very worth the money compared to other products), the difference will be moot. Stay away from best buy and CC, all too often is their "expert" an 18 year old kid who thinks kicker is the best you can buy. Get me some of this info and I'll write up a list of my recommendations and try to get some approximate costs.

[1983stepside]

What type of music do you primarily listen to? Whats your budget? Have you fully deadened the interior yet? What headunit do you currently have? Do you want clarity with enough potential volume to damage your hearing, or just stupidly loud volume with little regard to clarity and imaging? I don't believe the kick panels Chris sells are setup for component tweets (yet?), so you'd have to sacrifice some quality and go with coaxials if you don't want to get really involved with tweeter placement and aiming, but unless you're ready to drop $500 on sound deadening if you haven't already, (Cascade is the best, hands down, and very worth the money compared to other products), the difference will be moot. Stay away from best buy and CC, all too often is their "expert" an 18 year old kid who thinks kicker is the best you can buy. Get me some of this info and I'll write up a list of my recommendations and try to get some approximate costs.

well im looking for good sounding speakers and a 12 inch sub behind the bench seat, with the 6x9 in each cab corner, with the brackets i bought from a fellow member, and with the sound deading im using a product called quick roof, and  before you freak out about it, i have a buddy that used dynomat, and yeah it works great better then  i thought it would, and i also have a buddy that used the product im gonna use and i do not notice a difference in sound deading at all, so thats what im using, only because its alot cheaper, because i dont have alot of money to pile a 3000 dollar stero system in my truck, and with the sub and box combo i found in bestbuy if i went that rought i would deff be putting it in my truck and doing the wireing my self cuz your right there expert is more than likely an 18 year old kid so really i guess what im asking for help on is what type of speakers should i use for both 6x9 and the kick panels, and under the dash pad? and should they be amplfied? or just the sub? and whats the best sub to run for music like rock, country, a little bit of rap here and there, but mostly rock and country, i dont have a head unit picked out yet because i wasnt sure which one would be the best for what im wanting to do any and all info will be apprecated, so you know also im no where near ready to put the interior together in my truck but i like to plan ahaed so when i get to that step im not sitting around like because i dont know where to start thanks

[werewolfx13]

Quick roof, peel and seal, etc are all pretty equivalent to dynamat, but they fall vastly short of cascade. For one of these trucks, I plan on 200-225 sq feet of deadening in the cab. I've used peel n seal in the past, but it gets very soft and smells like asphalt in the summer.

I would leave the speakers out of the dash if you're going to run kick panel speakers. Pick a set of 6.5" coaxials (2 way) or 3 ways for the kick panels, brands to look for in order from best to good are Rainbow, Arc, Focal, Eclipse. With your budget in mind, I'd look to the eclipse, or even Kenwood or pioneer would be suitable. 6x9's, don't put a lot of concern into these, a good set of pioneer or kenwood 6x9's would be fine, try to find 2 way speakers. As far as subs go, avoid cheap. Dynaudio Esotar 1200 Is the best you can buy hands down. Its deep, so if you're still using the bench seat, it may be too big to fit behind the seat, in that case, a shallow mount sub would be sufficient, one of these would fit the bill nicely http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?c=3&tp=111, build a 0.8 cubic foot sealed box. Amplify everything. Tru S44 and S500 are your best bet for amps, they are pricey but worth every penny of their $799 each price tags. If you must buy something cheaper, kicker makes DECENT amps, a 4 channel and a 2 channel for the amp bridged to one channel. (sx600.2). As far as the head unit, nothing but eclipse. The Eclipse CD5030 when it comes out would be suitable. You're looking for 3 sets of preamp outputs, and the cd5030 is the cheaper way to do that. Otherwise, its the CD7200MKII.

[eventhorizon66]

Hey werewolf: have you ever tried Second Skin damplifier pro?  Based on what I've heard, it's vastly superior to Dynamat, at a lower cost.  Not sure how it compares to Cascade.

Also, my current theory is that single cab trucks don't need rear fill at all.  My plan is to simply run front coax's mounted in kick panels and a down-firing sub under the seat.  A very basic, easy to tune, 2.1 system.  It's obvious you have some sort of expertise in the realm of car audio, so what's your take on this?

[1983stepside]

Quick roof, peel and seal, etc are all pretty equivalent to dynamat, but they fall vastly short of cascade. For one of these trucks, I plan on 200-225 sq feet of deadening in the cab. I've used peel n seal in the past, but it gets very soft and smells like asphalt in the summer.

I would leave the speakers out of the dash if you're going to run kick panel speakers. Pick a set of 6.5" coaxials (2 way) or 3 ways for the kick panels, brands to look for in order from best to good are Rainbow, Arc, Focal, Eclipse. With your budget in mind, I'd look to the eclipse, or even Kenwood or pioneer would be suitable. 6x9's, don't put a lot of concern into these, a good set of pioneer or kenwood 6x9's would be fine, try to find 2 way speakers. As far as subs go, avoid cheap. Dynaudio Esotar 1200 Is the best you can buy hands down. Its deep, so if you're still using the bench seat, it may be too big to fit behind the seat, in that case, a shallow mount sub would be sufficient, one of these would fit the bill nicely http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?c=3&tp=111, build a 0.8 cubic foot sealed box. Amplify everything. Tru S44 and S500 are your best bet for amps, they are pricey but worth every penny of their $799 each price tags. If you must buy something cheaper, kicker makes DECENT amps, a 4 channel and a 2 channel for the amp bridged to one channel. (sx600.2). As far as the head unit, nothing but eclipse. The Eclipse CD5030 when it comes out would be suitable. You're looking for 3 sets of preamp outputs, and the cd5030 is the cheaper way to do that. Otherwise, its the CD7200MKII.

wow thanks for that info i will deff have to keep all of what you said in mind when buying my audio supplies, whats the best way to run 2 amps? ive never done that before so not to sure what to do, also my plan was to put the amp under the seat because i didnt want to see it when the seat is flip forward, so with 2 amps, where should i put them so 1.) they look good if they have to be in the open behind the seat and 2.) so they wont get to hot  thanks again

[werewolfx13]

Hey werewolf: have you ever tried Second Skin damplifier pro?  Based on what I've heard, it's vastly superior to Dynamat, at a lower cost.  Not sure how it compares to Cascade.

Also, my current theory is that single cab trucks don't need rear fill at all.  My plan is to simply run front coax's mounted in kick panels and a down-firing sub under the seat.  A very basic, easy to tune, 2.1 system.  It's obvious you have some sort of expertise in the realm of car audio, so what your take on this?

Most of the Second Skin products are decent, but I'm a firm believer in Cascade. I haven't bothered to deaden my truck since its going to need some body work, but when I do, its getting Cascade VB-2HD, at least 2 layers over every practical surface.

Rear fill in these trucks is only needed if you don't do some major dampening. I would use a little anyway, since you can dial it out to being almost nonexistent if it isn't needed.

The down-firing sub idea would be ok if you had enough room under the seat..I doubt you'll have enough room to get a decent sub for the application.


As for amp wiring, run 1/0 cable off the battery to an inline fuse holder, you want it as close as possible to the battery. I'd suggest you drill a new hole and use watertight locking grommets in the firewall. Upgrade your alt to battery connection with a fused cable AT LEAST 4 ga, and battery to frame and battery to body grounds with 1/0 cable. Use a distro block suitable for 1/0 cable behind the seat, split it to twin 4 ga or twin 8 ga leads, depending on your choice of amps. I'd suggest you mount the amps behind the seat on an amp mounting board made from a non conductive material, solid birch is a good choice for the sub box and amp mounting board. Its non-resonant and lighter than MDF.