Gen V 454 into 88 V20 burb

[MuddiGGEr25]

find out what the factory fuel pump for the engine was it may be able to be put in a squarebody tbi sending unit, if not there are a few gm pumps that fit that sending unit so you should be able to find an oem pump that will work for you

Factory fuel pump was 50GPH, @ 32PSI regulated, and 51PSI dead head pressure. I have been looking at a few but it seems no matter what one i pick im gonna be spending $100-$130

the first one here is a little overkill for stock but would give me a little wiggle room for this fall when i swap the cam: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/159001/10002/-1

45PSI deadhead, but max flow of 67GPH @ 43.5PSI, but the internal regulator will knock that down to 32PSI anyway and send the rest back to the tank.

Another one i was looking at was: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFP0/E16020.oap

45GPH max flow and 45PSi max, but i think that would be borderline starving the engine if i ever needed WOT


I would prefer an inline pump as i am reusing the deisel 32Gal tank after rinsing it with sanisol at a buddies shop. I see no issues other than i will need to make the dash board and fuel door say "Gasoline"

[MuddiGGEr25]

Quick update, i have pretty much decided on the jegs fuel pump i posted before, a little more than needed but i would rather have a bit of return to the tank than not have enough fuel to get up a TN mountain.

I also just wiped off a sticker on the 4L80E that says Remanufactured GM Goodwrench Service replacement, or something like that, so thats reassuring atleast

I will be yanking the 6.2L out friday night after work/early Sat morning and start this swap, but i will be driving the K5 in the meantime (see new thread over there) so i can take a little more time to get er done.

But we are moving to TN because my back and knees are failing me again, and i already know im gonna be out for 2-3 months physical therapy, etc before i can jump back into FT work again, so were taking the park model down there and gonna atleast enjoy the summer so i gotta make sure i do this right the first time

EDIt: i also found the "plate" with the code: 15BSP, and Serial of 04-265      00101330

[MuddiGGEr25]

Another update: drained the fluids last night, and been workin on it all morning, stopped for lunch at 230, all that is left i think is 2 bell housing bolts on each side and the trans/tcase should roll out with the jack, then the 2 motor mounts and cut the exhaust off, then the engine should swing on up and out

[MuddiGGEr25]

its all out and sold, been working on degreasing the top of the axle and other areas from the oil leaks -.- next friday ordering the fuel pump, and maybe tomorrow setting the engine in and bolting up the trans.   Not too sure about my connections for FP to engine, i know my garden hose with proper hose barbs and a good compression clamp can handle 60PSI of pressure at 2-4GPM, so i think the same should handle the fuel requirements for the TBI @ 40PSI and 45GPH (.75 GPM MAX) 

Need to find out what my options are for shifting PRND32L, i think im just going to be SOL on the L gear because i dont really think im gonna have time to put the 4spd column into the truck before we have to leave in 5 weeks

[MuddiGGEr25]

Ok so anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1995 harness??? or a link to one? ive been reading that the late 94 and 95' model year were an oddball out or black sheep of the family. I have the entire harness including sensors and everything up to the connector on the the firewall going inside, the fuse/relay center for under the hood is still connected,

Im thinking all i need to connect is the lead to the starter, the CEL light, temp, oil guage leads, not sure if there are any others required to make it run


The engine is in the bay and tomorrow i should be able to mount up the trans and maybe even the Tcase before work.  my driveshafts will be about 4" too long/short if i measured correctly, so i will have to deal with that too

[MuddiGGEr25]

I have attached the diagram i found on my autozone account, i will check it later today when the wind dies down or tomorrow on my day off to see if the wires match up. It looks like I need to provide fused power to the PCM pink wires, constant fused power to the orange, and fused power to the , trans feed line, then match up my alternator charge wire and the ignition wire.  im not sure if i can just connect my battery lead to the POS on the underhood distribution center and that will get the power where it needs to go? I know i will still need to splice in my "hot in run/start" to trigger the relays, and run my starter solenoid wire regardless

Ill snap some pics of the progress thus far and post them later

[VileZambonie]

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[VileZambonie]

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[MuddiGGEr25]

thanks for those, ill print them off tomorrow and start looking at my harness/fuseblock

[MuddiGGEr25]

Alright update time, 1/2" OD compression fittings are too big, and 3/8" OD are too small, so i scrapped that idea, and im going to put 3/8" hydraulic hose (only because i have 16ft of it already, JD rated for 3200 PSI) or 3/8" rubber line that came with the other transmission cooler box.  I know it will be a snug fit, but thats ok, and ill double clamp it, and the ID of the aluminum tubing looks to be about 3/8" anyway so there should be any restriction there, then it will just be able to run through the oil cooler in the 4 core radiator.

I will have to use a relay to power the ECM 1 & B because AFAIK the 6.2L harness doesnt have either of those, and probably use the 12v+ that went to the IP to the coil instead, as that should be a fused 12V+ in start/run.

I looked up the PS pump for both the 6.2L in hydroboost and non hydroboost applications as well as the 454 pump in both, and all the output fittings for all configurations was M16-1.5 so my existing hydroboost line should just screw right in, and my return line on the 454 PS pump is already long enough to reach the return on the steering box... best i can remember that was the only 2 lines on my old PS pump anyway

[MuddiGGEr25]

After a little more work on the burb, I realized there is another return up at the brake booster so I will have to T it to those 2 lines.

Also I put together a reducer from some pipe fittings at work. It was free vs 12 to 20 for a reducer here in town. It's not the prettiest but it should work. Only has to hold 14psi max and 200F and we use these at the sugar factory for lines exceeding 70PSI and steam lines well over 300F. So it should work fine.

[MuddiGGEr25]

another update (pictures coming soon i promise) i got the transmision wiring harness run down along the body so tomorrow i can plug in all that, i extended the shift linkage, and as of right now I have P,R,N, OD, and D, which should be all i need really, i cant think of any scenarios where i need to force it into 1st or 2nd, I was able to stop the trailer from 45mph with the truck brakes only on a 3% hill ( i did this on purpose when the road was empty, and used my google app to measure the grade later)

The trailer brakes and my controller work fine, and i know to ease into the hills on the way down ( i know down in TN and even GA that there will be some good ones)



Thursday after i get off work at 8am ( i hate overnights) ill take a nap and work on running the starter wires and the relay to power the ECM circuits.


Also got the shortened driveshaft back last night, its got about 3/4" of play right now into the Tcase, but i am adding 2" blocks to the rear in about 5 months so that will pull it out more. with the 8 factory leaves and my 1500lb 3" overload there is very little suspension movement even with the trailer attached

[MuddiGGEr25]

Ok so i traced the wires to the harness that plugs into the donor firewall (i have the entire plug still) and figured out which wire powers the ECM fuses, so no problem there. But im trying to figure out which wires have the signals for the temp gauge and the oil pressure.


I couldnt figure it out with the diagrams above

[MuddiGGEr25]

I overslept, but i found out that the curve of the 1988 PS line is wrong and im not gonna risk trying to bend a 30yr old line, I looked up part numbers for hydroboost applications on the 1988 and the 1995 3/4 tons and both have M16 on the pump end and M18 on the hydroboost end, so im gonna ask the parts store tomorrow if they have it on hand or can get it tomorrow or atleast by monday.

I did almost consider using a 3/8" compression union but at best those are only rated for 400PSI for 30 seconds for even the expensive ones, and a custom hose would have cost me well into the mid $50's around here (small town everything is overpriced) but it appears i can just use the factory hydroboost line for the 1995 and while the geometry may not be correct at the hydroboost end, it will atleast curve around the frame at the pump end.

Just realized i will need to tie into the brake light wire also for the TCC and probably to get it to shift out of park

[MuddiGGEr25]

Ok so good progress today, not as much as i had hoped but all hoses are now connected except the trans to aux cooler (waiting to pickup a barb nipple), and i will have to T into the coolant hose on the top of the pump, because i filled up the radiator and all the lines filled up and i plugged the disconnected end of the heater hose, and no water was coming out anywhere so it must be plugged but no big deal there.

I found a couple good diagrams for the 6.2l wiring here:  http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans/Wiring/ST_350_89_1989_GM_RV-P_Light_Trucks.pdf

i know its the wrong year but the colors are all matching for my 88.

Next is just wiring in a relay or 2 to handle all the ECM, ENG, and trans fuses for hot in run/start.

I havent figured out where to tap for the oil pressure or the coolant temp yet though