Steering Rebuild Kit

[Jon87V20]

I want to go through and replace all the worn out steering components in my '87 Suburban V20. I'm going to buy a new steering gear box locally, but does anyone have any ideas on where I can find a good kit to replace the rest that would come with most if not all of what I need? What all should I replace while I'm in there? I'm assuming tie-rods and ball-joints? Are the ball-joints really difficult to do? I'm not even sure what some of the other components in there are even called.

From what I can tell, most of the play is in the gearbox (and the rag-joint, but I already replaced that). It's possible the rest of it is okay, but I won't know for sure until I change out the gearbox... I tested the ball-joints with a prybar and there didn't seem to be any movement in those. Should I just change that stuff out anyway?

[VileZambonie]

If it ain't broke ....

You need to check the front end thoroughly, replace what needs to be replaced. Do a dry park check of the front end, check the box mounting area, frame issues, worn components, axle movement etc. Jack the front axle, check the ball joints, bearings and linkage again. Familiarize yourself with all of the parts.

[75gmck25]

I replaced the ball joints and tie rods on my '75 K25 a few months ago, and also replaced the rag joint and adjusted the steering box play.  Its a lot better than before, but the old box still has some play after I followed the recommended adjustment procedure. 

Ball joint replacement itself is not that hard, but there are a lot of pieces that have to come off, and a lot of steps before you get to the ball joints. Since you have to remove the front hubs, its also a good time to check bearings and replace any worn brake parts.  There is an inner seal on the brake hub, and a couple of seals where the spindle meets the axle.  All of them should be replaced if you want to do a complete job.

I borrowed the ball joint tool from Advance Auto Parts, and it all came apart without any issues.  I also had to buy this special tool for the upper ball joint https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRDEG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.  There is a bushing threaded into the hub, and then the ball joint fits into that bushing.  The tool is used to remove and replace the bushing.  If your camber was way off you can use an eccentric bushing that allows you to adjust the camber of the hub.  You will also need a tie rod separator, and may need some larger sockets than you normally use.  I think I needed up to a 1 1/8" socket and box end wrench.

I bought most of the parts from Rock Auto, since they were quite a bit cheaper than anyone local.  As part of the upgrade I also installed 4 new Rancho shocks, and a new front stabilizer shock. Everything is much better, but I think I need a new steering box to complete the job.   The box rebuild kits are just replacement seals, so they don't fix the free play issues.

Bruce

[Jon87V20]

Ok. Thanks for the great info! That's really helpful. Glad to know about the extra tools as I need to get this done quickly. This truck is my daily driver on Monday and Tuesday making it imperative that I'm prepared to finish it over the weekend, hopefully without getting stuck.

Did you have any issues removing the rear shocks? I tried to remove the rear shocks a while back and had to give up because I couldn't break the nuts loose on the top where they attach to the frame. I was putting a wrench on the nut in the frame and tried using a breaker bar and was afraid it might break something. No matter how hard I was pulling on it, it wouldn't budge even after some PB Blaster soaked it for a while. The wrench even came flying out of there once. Unfortunately, I don't have access to an impact wrench at the moment. I may need to pick one up.

[75gmck25]

The shock mount was definitely tight, but it came off without anything breaking.

I bought the $99 Ryobi 1/2" drive, 18 volt impact wrench with charger and battery at Home Depot, and it really works well for removing lug nuts and breaking things loose on the suspension.   I don't see that item listed online, but the store had lots of stock a couple of months ago.  They have better impact wrenches by Milwaukee, but they are well over $200 (maybe $250) by the time you get a battery and charger.
 
I had to run the impact wrench so long to break that shock bolt loose that my neighbor even joked about the noise level. He is building an addition on his house, so he is always using some tool or machine that is really loud.

Bruce

[Jon87V20]

$100 sounds like a good deal for that. I'll probably get one of those then. Thanks again, Bruce!