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« Last post by Mr Diesel on April 16, 2024, 07:00:12 PM »
I like the pics. Very clean
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« Last post by VileZambonie on April 16, 2024, 05:45:55 PM »
Why didn't you take it back to the shop and explain the issue? Sounds like they didn't properly time it.
NOTE: Timing specifications are listed on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label under the hood. Always follow the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label procedures first before using the following procedure.
PROCEDURE:
Set timing under the following conditions:
^ Normal operating temperature.
^ Air cleaner installed.
^ A/C "OFF".
^ Transmission in neutral.
^ Disconnect SET TIMING connector (tan/black wire) located in harness close to distributor. DO NOT disconnect 4 wire connector at distributor.
^ Connect timing light and adjust as necessary by loosening hold down bolt and rotating distributor.
Refer to specifications:
Engine 7.4L (454 cid) VIN N .................... Base Timing 4~ BTDC (Manual Trans).
Engine 7.4L (454 cid) VIN N .................... Base Timing 4~ BTDC (Auto Trans).
^ Tighten hold down and recheck the timing.
^ Stop the engine and connect SET TIMING connector.
^ Clear ECM trouble code by disconnecting ECM power source.
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« Last post by Shifty on April 16, 2024, 04:15:40 PM »
Cast iron performance pump would be fine IMHO, probably better-no chance of galling, just added weight.
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on April 16, 2024, 03:06:48 PM »
Well, will start putting my new engine together soon. Has anyone ran the Rochester Carburetor on a performance 383 stroker? Just wondering if I need a 750 as is recommended. Also was wondering if I need or should get an aluminum water pump. I have a cast iron one that is not all that old and it was a performance pump (higher volume) than normal.
Here is a few pics! I have to figure out what size push rods I need and am waiting on some ARP bolts to come in.
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Hi, Great, I will pull it in and check those items. Thanks Guys
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« Last post by Chevygold on April 16, 2024, 12:05:46 PM »
Check that you have 12v at the BAT terminal on the distributor in the start and run positions.
Graham
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« Last post by Shifty on April 16, 2024, 09:21:28 AM »
First, check the firing order. Second, make sure the distributor is tightened down. Third, (and the most likely) is the timing is off a few degrees.
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« Last post by Chevygold on April 16, 2024, 05:03:58 AM »
Ran the following tests on the existing unit and everything tested good pick up was 500 ohms and infinity to ground on both wires, BAT to TAC gave 0.5 ohms and infinity to ground so coil looks good so while I'm waiting for the MSD I'm putting it all back as was just in case I need to move the truck. Will check everything over on the MSD when I get it, all I'm waiting for now is a set of plugs and a selection of plug sockets to deal with the awkward one!
Graham
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I recently had a local shop do a tune-up. They replaced the distributor while they were there. Now it will crank and crank and only starts the moment key is turned to run position. It's like no spark while cranking. It seems I should be able to unplug the connector at the distributor and test for cranking voltage, and run voltage. But I don't know which plugs are supposed to have 12 volts. It always started very quickly before this. Thanks in advance for any light anyone can shed on this.
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« Last post by VileZambonie on April 15, 2024, 04:06:16 PM »
Make sure you ohm the pickup coil before replacing the module.
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