Need fuse box for 84 c10 but can't find one

[84C10.Miranda]

Hey everyone.  After checking everything in the electrical system in my truck trying to figure out why it won't start we found the problem.  I'm not sure why we didn't start there but we didn't.  The fuse box is 100% melted, and I do mean melted to the point there is thick gue coming from it.  Problem I'm facing now is finding one to replace it.  The truck is an 84 C10 5.0L V8.  I need the entire fuse box replaced.  Anyone have any ideas where to get one that doesn't cost a fortune???  Also, does it have to be from an 84 truck or is there a year range that will work on it?  I've looked on Rock Auto, Ecklers, Classic truck parts, and year 1 and I can't find it.  I'm going to check with some junk yards tomorrow but if my luck continues like this I won't find one at them.  Hope someone can help.

[bd]

The connector you pictured and its mating firewall (bulkhead) socket are part of the engine compartment and cab wiring harness and are not available separately.

But more importantly, that 'thick goo' is factory antioxidant injected into the connector to prevent corrosion.  Is the connector physically melted, or is the 'goo' misleading you?  When bulkhead connectors melt the terminals typically migrate in the connector, twist and imbed in the plastic and are held tight and rigid.  With the connector unplugged from the bulkhead, wash away the antioxidant with some spray carb cleaner and inspect the terminals and connector closely.  If you can slightly jiggle the wires and see the terminals move in the connector, nothing is melted.  After cleaning and making sure all the terminals are properly seated, reassemble the bulkhead and retest the starting problem.

Is the "no start" a cranking issue?

[84C10.Miranda]

I'm glad I posted a pic then.  I will try what you said about cleaning it and checking if its movable or not.  Do I need to clean both sides or just the one that comes off?  Also, to the cranking question.  It tries to crank, tries to turn over but will not start.  Battery and battery cables are brand new.  There is no power to the dash except for the pull button for the headlights working, everything else won't do anything.  We even tried using an extra wire from the red on the battery to the solenoid, it kept trying to crank but simply wont.  If using the key it won't do anything at all.  That's why we figured its something with the fuse box since there's no power.  The key not doing anything I guess could be an ignition switch. 

[rich weyand]

Check your grounds!

[bd]

Clean both halves of the connector, but be careful that the 'goo' isn't washed down onto the carpet, because it won't wash completely out.

Here's a relevant post from another thread...

The square bodies use multiple primary grounds, all of which are important and need to function correctly:  battery-to-engine (2-gauge or the same gauge as battery-to-starter), battery-to-passenger side frame (10-gauge), battery-to-radiator support (10- or 12-gauge), engine-to-driver side frame (10-gauge), back of passenger side cylinder head-to-firewall (usually a 5/16" braided, uninsulated flat cable, although a 10-gauge insulated cable will substitute nicely), rear lamp harness-to-frame (16-gauge). 

Under the circumstances you've described, all of the major grounds mentioned should be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled with some antioxidant.  If any grounds are missing, add them!  If there are any star washers used in the ground connections, discard them!

Don't just peer at the grounds!  Rather, disassemble each one and clean the metal with some sandpaper, so the metal appears bright.  You can find antioxidant in the electrical section of your local hardware store.

When confronted with grounding issues, even your test light or voltmeter can mislead you into thinking you have power delivery problems, because the test light and meter use the same ground paths as the vehicle wiring.

I'm still not clear on the complaint.  When you say, "it tries to turn over but will not start," does the engine struggle to turn over as in labored cranking, or does it crank as it should, but just won't fire off?

In conclusion, avoid the routine of throwing parts at the symptoms, or your vehicle will become a frustrating conveyor belt of resources with hit-and-miss benefit to show for it (aka, $$$).

[skinu]

yep after your ground check ,take neg off of battery post and put a 12v test light between the cable and post ,if it lights you have a short,pull fuse one at a time and if it goes out you've just isolated the prob,if it stays on then do it again with the key on,battery's do short out also and alt's do over charge. on my 84 I used a 86 fuse box and also used a 78 fuse box on a 85 k20, also just helped a friend who's loom was rubbing on steering rod and seen wires touch exhaust pipes, you'll get it here and some people on this site will walk you thru it by the hand after all its been a classic for 4 years now, luck to you