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I guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure. Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough power
I will see if I can get some pics Been raining every day Plus the rear main seal on the LS blew Took 8 quarts to get 8 miles home Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: ajdmello on August 10, 2016, 10:05:05 AMI guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure. Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough powerStock hoses will be SAE J30R7 with a MAX working pressure of between 35 & 50 PSI and 250PSI Burst when they were new. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526Replace em with hoses rated for the 60PSI + the LS is expecting. SAE J30R9 hose is rated at 100PSI working and 900PSI Burst. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144On this same subject...If you're using an in-tank pump be sure the hose section that mounts it to the fuel pickup tube is SAE J30R10 Fuel Submersible hose. Most fuel pumps come with the wrong stuff. Use German Fuel Injection hose clamps or Properly sized Constant Tension Band Clamps on your fuel hoses. Worm clamps are not really suited to hoses smaller than 5/8"-3/4".I don't use the cheap worm clamps even on larger hoses. When the hoses outer jacket extrudes through the worm slots in the cheap clamps it releases the original tension and you have a leak. Breezeliner worm clamps have an extended stainless protective tang to keep the hoses away from the worm slots for a couple more quarters but not for smaller than 5/8" - 3/4" hose.The Pollack dual tank valve is only rated at 60PSI or less. It probably will not work for very long at more than that. If you use a frame mount pump you may be able to keep the dual tank valve if the return pressure is low enough.
Quote from: hatzie on August 10, 2016, 01:58:33 PMQuote from: ajdmello on August 10, 2016, 10:05:05 AMI guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure. Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough powerStock hoses will be SAE J30R7 with a MAX working pressure of between 35 & 50 PSI and 250PSI Burst when they were new. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526Replace em with hoses rated for the 60PSI + the LS is expecting. SAE J30R9 hose is rated at 100PSI working and 900PSI Burst. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144On this same subject...If you're using an in-tank pump be sure the hose section that mounts it to the fuel pickup tube is SAE J30R10 Fuel Submersible hose. Most fuel pumps come with the wrong stuff. Use German Fuel Injection hose clamps or Properly sized Constant Tension Band Clamps on your fuel hoses. Worm clamps are not really suited to hoses smaller than 5/8"-3/4".I don't use the cheap worm clamps even on larger hoses. When the hoses outer jacket extrudes through the worm slots in the cheap clamps it releases the original tension and you have a leak. Breezeliner worm clamps have an extended stainless protective tang to keep the hoses away from the worm slots for a couple more quarters but not for smaller than 5/8" - 3/4" hose.The Pollack dual tank valve is only rated at 60PSI or less. It probably will not work for very long at more than that. If you use a frame mount pump you may be able to keep the dual tank valve if the return pressure is low enough.Thats really what i wanted to know! I might just use braided line since i need to probably replace the current factory lines anyways. I dont want to use a external pump i had figured on just using one tank for now i guess maybe down the road i will try to get the other one hooked up. I seen somewhere on here a guy using check balls in his fuel line to hook up both tanks??? Also isn there a better tank valve i could buy that will handle the 60psi?
Now tell me what im missing if the tbi pump is not enough to run the 60psi the motor needs how will it have enough to keep the surge tank full? Another thought instead of doing that what if i take the extra tank and run the tbi pump in that tank and just pipe it in to the other tank with the high flow pump and put it on a toggle as along as you didnt put to much in and over fill it. Wonder if you could wire some sort of switch to stop it when its full.
Wild horses sells em And it looks like it would work for dual tanks I ditched the aux tank on my bronco and on the square body http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Fuel_Filter_AccumulatorSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That not really bad at all i thought it would be a lot more! I still think probably just set up one tank to get her going down the road and maybe later get a second one. Thanks for looking that up! You think 1500 bucks will get my ls in my truck? Not counting the cost of the motor. I know computer and harness will eat up a lot of it thats about 400bucks.