Recent Posts

1

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Missing Cover?

« Last post by Mr Diesel on Today at 07:52:02 AM »

It is a dust cover and goes by other names as well. Every lazy mechanic rips them off and doesn't bother to put it back on, even though it's just a few more bolts. Can't help you sizing options on the internet though. Might try Ebay too.

Edit: Looking at your links above the Classic Industries one probably doesn't fit SM465. The Summit and Amazon links look possible.

2

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Missing Cover?

« Last post by KamperBob on Today at 12:17:03 AM »

Further exam made clear it wraps around the lower half of the bell housing behind the oil pan. I found some leads calling it a bell or clutch housing dust cover. This one indicates match for Saginaw and Muncie transmissions.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/OER-3843943/applications

BUT others like this one say the 3843943 is for earlier model year applications and only 11" clutch.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/truck/parts/3843943.html

According to the GM specs literature I found it's a 12" clutch. Maybe the same cover, maybe not.

This one says: Will NOT work with 11" GM Truck bellhousing.

https://www.amazon.com/3843943-Housing-Flywheel-similar-bellhousin/dp/B074KMFCTL/

3

Engine/Drivetrain / Missing Cover?

« Last post by KamperBob on June 01, 2024, 08:44:47 PM »

I'm restoring an 84 k30 with 6.2 diesel and SM465. Seems like a cover is missing just below the starter. As is road crud has an easy in. I might could fashion something but can anyone help me source the proper replacement part? TIA

4

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Chevygold on June 01, 2024, 01:22:39 PM »

That's what I meant, my distributor was mounted this way and I always struggled with the screw nearest the firewall but after fitting it as I said the 2 back screws are both easily accessible. Just saying.
Graham

5

Transfer Cases and Front Drivelines / Re: NP 203 rear yoke nut

« Last post by berserk on May 31, 2024, 12:27:04 PM »

😂 I tested my old one by hand threading it on and the "locking" portion of the threads showed no resistance. I was able to run the nut snug against the spacer by hand, that shows me it's no good.


I ordered the nut from the eBay ad linked, thanks for the help guys!

6

Transfer Cases and Front Drivelines / Re: NP 203 rear yoke nut

« Last post by JohnnyPopper on May 30, 2024, 10:43:49 PM »

bd never fails to surprise...

Better get it, I have the same Xfer case...

7

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 30, 2024, 07:25:12 PM »

Yep, it is rotated a little further clockwise than because it is loose and the hold down is not on. I'm making sure the ignition wires have enough play when rotating the distributor back and forth for tuning. I will remove it prior to putting the engine in my truck to make it easier and prevent damage.

The distributor cap connector is on the drivers side and #1 is pointed toward that direction @ TDC. Same way it was mounted on my last engine without trouble.

8

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by VileZambonie on May 30, 2024, 05:53:01 PM »

The way his distributor is positioned is correct. If you need to gain access due to firewall interference, loosen the hold down clamp and rotate the distributor. Most of us witness mark the base to the intake after it's dialed in so setting it back is quick.

9

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Chevygold on May 30, 2024, 03:35:09 PM »

I've just fitted the same distributor to my truck and after a lot of research I found that the moulding on the top of the cap with latch at each end should be parallel to the firewall, a small point I know but allows best access to the cap latch screws.
BTW latch refers to the diagnostic adaptor used to monitor the ignition pulses from the coil.

Graham

10

Instrumentation / Re: 77 C10 Custom Deluxe Cluster Removal

« Last post by ehjorten on May 30, 2024, 10:21:26 AM »

This ^^^^^.  If the truck has A/C, remove the driver-side A/C duct that crosses under the steering column.  With the instrument cluster firmly secured in the dash, while kneeling on the floor use your left hand to reach up behind the cluster from below and wrap your fingers around the cable with your thumb pointing toward the speedometer head.  Remove the cable from the speedometer by pushing the spring retaining tab toward the cluster with your left thumb while simultaneously pulling the cable away from the cluster with your left hand.

I did this exact same procedure on my '77 K20 Silverado. Getting it free after 46 years wasn't too bad. Bought a new cable, pulled the cable out of the sleeve and coated it with white lithium grease, but it back in, and transferred the original, aluminum strain relief from at the transfer case to the new cable. I also installed a thermal cover over the sleeve where it crosses over the aftermarket exhaust pipe to prevent it from melting again.