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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Fuel Systems and Drivability => Topic started by: Deathscythe on May 23, 2018, 10:36:07 PM
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I have an 86 GMC Sierra and will be taking on replacing at least one leaking fuel tank and possibly the sending unit as well. My questions are these; when removing and installing the tank, does the scrape guard have to be removed to remove and install the tank? It seems like it would be much easier to remove them together then disassemble once removed. Also, what can be used for replacing the strap insulation when installing the tank? Before installing the tank, to insure that theres as much longetivity to the tank as possible, is there any internal or external coatings or paint that can be applied without affecting any coating that may be on the tank from the manufacturer? It seems like a good self etching primer and decent coat of paint on the outside could be beneficial.
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the scrape guard should be removed and once you do remove it leave it off. they trap dirt and water and will rust your mounting brackets if theyre not already rusted up
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also when removing the tank dust shield there is a pretty difficult fastener to take off in between it and the body of the truck.(the outside part of the dust shield, not the inside towards the center of the truck (those are easy)....ask me how i know lol
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The strap insulation is the same a roofing felt. When you order a kit from an aftermarket supplier you just get strips of like 15-lb roofing felt. The old original stuff was more like tar paper. I have done both the aftermarket kit and also used my own roofing felt. I felt like the roofing felt that I had was heavier weight and better, but if you don't have a roll lying around or know someone that has some, it is probably better to just buy the kit.
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I cut up a mud flap off a dump truck. If I had to do it again I would try and find something a little thinner
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I cut up a mud flap off a dump truck. If I had to do it again I would try and find something a little thinner
I used a tire tube I sliced up, think it was for a big truck, material was fairly thick, definitely thicker than a small car tire or bicycle.
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That would probably be perfect
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Also on certain years the nuts that hold the bracket to the frame are welded on so you don't need to get a wrench between the tank and frame. On my 91 they weren't welded on so I did well them on also
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Hi Deathscythe:
As far as rust prevention, I expect your replacement tank is galvanized on the outside which should be a durable coating as long as you are not in a area of the country where it snows a lot and you have salt and chemicals added to the roads for de-icing. If you are, then a simple coat of primer and paint would help increase the life of the tank. I would not use a self-etching primer (also dont rough up the surface) as this may defeat the galvanization of the tank. Also, if you paint, be sure not to paint areas of the tank that may need electrical continuity such as the sender attachment area and the filler necks.
Regards,
Henry
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I live in Wichita Kansas, not much salt used here just sand and antifreeze liquid. I plan on ordering my tanks from IBM, I'll check to see if they're galvanized or not when I order. I'll probably order a new kit as well and hopefully the brackets will be intact and I won't have to replace those as well.