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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Performance => Exhaust => Topic started by: 86 C-10 305 Guy on May 25, 2020, 02:22:40 PM
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1986 Chevy C-10 Scottsdale 305 V8 Single Cab, Automatic w/overdrive.
Does anyone have a step by step (preferably with pictures) process on removing the emissions from my truck to mainly cleanup under the hood?
Recently got the truck and started trying to work on it (amateur) took the Quadrajet carb out and swapped it with an Edelbrock 1906, since the Quadrajet wasn’t working anymore. New open air filter as well. I’m just trying to hook everything up correctly. Thank you in advance.
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The first thing to do is take plenty of pictures and inventory everything you take off. You'll want to retain all of the parts for the next owner or for resale. Leave the vapor canister and hook it up. Pretty much everything else is up for removal
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Is there a step by step process? I’m definitely an amateur when it comes to cars. That’s why I got this one to learn and fix up.
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Well I hate to say just start ripping everything out when there is no plan in place. Are you upgrading parts, because if you are just removing the components that are there, the truck becomes more molested and loses resale value? If you are doing performance upgrades and not butchering up the harness and components along the way essentially everything can be deleted. Are you changing the intake manifold?
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Should I change it? After doing some checks in think the head gasket is blown.
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Do you know what this is or what this does? It’s between the distributor and the carburetor. With the red and blue caps.
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That is for full manifold vacuum.
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That switch on the firewall is for your lock up torque converter. It needs vacuum.
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That switch on the firewall is for your lock up torque converter. It needs vacuum.
Where does the lock up torque converter connect to? To the carburetor?
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That is for full manifold vacuum.
Do I need full manifold vacuum?
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That switch on the firewall is for your lock up torque converter. It needs vacuum.
Where does the lock up torque converter connect to? To the carburetor?
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I would consult the vacuum line diagram on your core support if you still have one. None of my trucks have that switch because of different transmissions than yours
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That switch is the tip-in vacuum switch. The TCC switch is closer to the booster
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That switch is the tip-in vacuum switch. The TCC switch is closer to the booster
My bad, I thought differently. Thanks for the education
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They look similar and are easy to mix up. The tip-in switch is closer to the distributor while the low vacuum switch is closer to the trans harness.
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How hard would it be to replace the head gasket?
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Looks like the smoke in the tail pipe stopped but I do see some bubbling in the radiator. And some steam coming form the radiator cap area after I turn the truck off. Is it a blown head gasket? If anyone in the Fort Belvoir area would like to come help me out I’d gladly repay you with good food and beer hahaha
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Get a block tester kit
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Check your oil level. If you have a blown head gasket water would most likely (not always) get into your oil pan and increase the oil level with radiator fluid. The steam in your radiator was probably from the loss of water and over heating. If you run your engine, water in your oil could wash out (ruin) your piston rings and you could lock up your engine.
Don't be afraid to get a maintenance manual and get your hands dirty. May seem difficult to do something you have never done. We were all in your place at one time. If possible, get a friend to help you out. However, many times you will find it is not that difficult and you will get satisfaction. If you have questions get on the forum and ask. You may have to buy some tools, if lacking. However, over time they will pay for themselves. You can also look up u tube videos to get ideas, if you do - watch more than one, since some are better than others. Best wishes!
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Check your oil level. If you have a blown head gasket water would most likely (not always) get into your oil pan and increase the oil level with radiator fluid. The steam in your radiator was probably from the loss of water and over heating. If you run your engine, water in your oil could wash out (ruin) your piston rings and you could lock up your engine.
We had a Ram Van w/340 v8 that had water in the oil.
Before swapping out with new long block, I TRIED TO BLOW IT UP by max revving...
No-go, only created taffy that I spent hours digging out of the pan and valve covers ::)
i know it's unrelated but seemed funny!
So look 86, before you do anything like heavy lifting, do some tests:
VZ advised a block test. That is a store bought kit that tests your radiator water to see if there are excessive hydrocarbons (gasoline particulates) in your water. If it tests positive, you may have a blown head gasket.
A secondary test would be of Compression. There is a tolerable difference between cylinders, but if it exceed that, you may have blown head gasket.
While you have your plugs out, (number them with a sharpy so you know what hole they cam out of) look for signs on them.
Welcome to the world of square bodies, THEY RULE!!
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Just did the combustion leak test and had no color change, pretty sure I did it correctly. The white smoke stopped coming out of the tailpipes also.
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Next I guess will be the compression test. Anyone know what this is and if it’s ok for all of them to be plugged off? With the blue caps
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Looks like it’s right above the thermostat housing
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The first thing to do is take plenty of pictures and inventory everything you take off. You'll want to retain all of the parts for the next owner or for resale. Leave the vapor canister and hook it up. Pretty much everything else is up for removal
The only other vac lines are to your brake booster, vacuum advance, and transmission modulator. (I don't know if you have a TH350C, if you do, I don't know how they're controlled. Suspect D/C)
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If you are talking vacuum hoses needed, which obviously all vacuum hoses are not for emissions, you need to retain:
Vacuum brake booster hose, vacuum advance hose, trans vacuum modulator hose as JP pointed out, HVAC controls & reservoir, PCV & Canister vent.
As far as capping everything, you aren't exactly making anything clean up the look under the hood. To eliminate would be to remove the items and run new vacuum lines where needed.
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Knew I forgot something... ::)
86 you can remove those emission items and plug them.
A little well placed painting and your desired 'cleaned up' gets done!
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Update: truck is running pretty good. Drove it 90 miles at 60mph and the oil pressure stayed at about 45, Temp bounced between 195 and 200. Now the only issue I’m having is the passenger side headlight works but not the driver side. I tried changing the headlight and still have the same problem.
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bd would say: "look for a grounding problem" ::)
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The thermostatic valve that is screwed into the top of the thermostat housing is used to control the hot air valve in the stock air cleaner. You don't have a stock air cleaner, so that is why it isn't hooked up to anything.
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Use an incandescent test light clipped to a clean, verified ground to validate 12 volts to the headlamp. Probe the ground terminal in the headlamp connector, too. Low and high beam should illuminate the test light full brightness, selectively, whereas probing the ground wire at the headlamp should never illuminate the test light. Once you've verified power and ground, clean the connections with some WD-40 and re-test.
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Use an incandescent test light clipped to a clean, verified ground to validate 12 volts to the headlamp. Probe the ground terminal in the headlamp connector, too. Low and high beam should illuminate the test light full brightness, selectively, whereas probing the ground wire at the headlamp should never illuminate the test light. Once you've verified power and ground, clean the connections with some WD-40 and re-test.
Thanks I’ll give that a try!!!!!
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So giving it a test drive yesterday this happened. Should I just change the whole rear axle assembly or just that axle? If so what rear axle assembly can fit in a 1986 Chevy C10? Would want to do something a little newer and a little stronger.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200614/4bdf914443501a7a164555bf00c8b74f.jpg)
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You should determine what the cause of failure was before replacing anything. It appears is that something may have been assembled incorrectly.
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While driving I started hearing like a knocking, then the tire and rim shot off. I had driven it less then 300 miles since I got it. It looked like one of the screws that holds the lug nuts broke off?
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your axle is plenty strong enough to carry your rig.
I think only one lug nut was on, and it got loose and broke.
look at the other studs for wear/rounding near the axle plate.
if the threads are worn down, that happened just before the wheel came off.
replace the stud, fix the brake parts, and tighten the lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs or what the manufacturer recommends.
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So what ever happened dude?