73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Instrumentation => Topic started by: A robs 23 on December 22, 2019, 12:00:09 AM
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1986 Chevrolet K20 - 350sbc - TH400
I am rebuilding my gauge cluster. Switching from the dummy lights to the electrical gauges.
I have the proper oil pressure sending unit. It takes a spade clip. The old sending unit had a clip with three wires. One of those wires connects the oil sending unit to the coolant temp sensor.
How do I rewire this to work?
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191222/b4ddae7178301aefa80a31bd881b6b72.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191222/08a1870b54dd8fc8597308291289c5a8.jpg)
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You have pictured an oil pressure switch, for the choke heater and dash light. For the gauges you need the oil pressure sending unit and signal wire. Refer to the diagrams and pinouts.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=31456.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30115.0
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My new sending unit
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191224/522ea84251a22c3b29f8a99b601781c3.jpg)
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I used my multimeter and found out that the orange-white wire on my old plug is the wire that traces back to my wiring harness under my dash. The green wire runs to the coolant temp sensor. What would the middle blue wire be for?
Am I correct to terminate a spade end onto my orange white wire and connect to my new sending unit?
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Did you pay any attention to VileZambonie's post? That three-wire connector in the image you posted is part of the factory electric choke circuit. What you presently perceive as an "orange-white" wire was pink-white before age, heat and oil intervened. The "green" wire began life as light blue. The dark blue has faired a little better and at least hints at its original color. The pink/white wire represents ignition power from the CHOKE fuse. The dark blue wire connects to the instrument cluster CHOKE light. The light blue wire should connect to the electric choke heater on the passenger side of the carburetor (assuming it remains intact), not the coolant temperature sender. You can verify all of this using a test light.
The factory wire color for the oil pressure sender/switch is (or was) tan and connected as a solitary wire to the oil pressure switch. Look for it dangling in the general area surrounding the engine oil filter.
The answer to your original question, "How do I rewire this to work?" is actually illustrated on page 10 in the 1986 Factory Wiring Manual (http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Wiring/ST_352_86_1986_Chevrolet_GMC_Light_Truc_Wiring_Manual_CK_10_30_Only.pdf#page=10). If you need assistance interpreting the wiring diagrams, let us know.
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Bd.
I am converting to gauges. I have my oil pressure sending unit as well, but did not think you all needed to see a picture of it in my hand.
Thank you for the detailed information after the fact.
I purchased the tach conversion kit and am trying to find the gauge feeder wire that will work with my wiring harness/printed circuit.
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I have gotten my new oil pressure sending unit installed with the appropriate plug attached.
I compared my “dummy light” printed circuit wiring harness to the pinout diagram that was graciously provided.
The pictures posted is my current pinout. I have not changed anything.
Question:
My current pinout does not seem to match the pinout diagram provided. Why would this be? Aftermarket harness?
IE. In position 16, I have a yellow wire. The pinout shows I should have pink/white.
“Page 10” of that manual definitely confuses me. Is that the manual that I need to use instead?
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The 1986 non-guage IP harness connector is boxed in red (image). The connector is illustrated from the pin side (business end that engages the cluster). Look closely. The existing connector that you imaged matches exactly the schematic. Assuming the new PCB configuration you have matches the factory "with gauges" cluster for 1986, repin according to the alternate (with gauges) IP harness connector illustrated on the schematic. Otherwise, you will have to map out the new PCB and repin accordingly. Take your time and be patient.
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Thank you very much!
I will take my first attempt at a repin and make sure to label every wire prior to disassembly.
This forum is EXTREMELY helpful.
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Use a terminal tool like this to depress the locking tab on the back of the terminals and remove them from the connector without damage...
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31989.0;attach=31767)
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Thanks!
I found some success with a tiny little flat head screwdriver. Small small.
Now I need to study and learn how to read those circuit diagrams.
Ill report back when the wiring is done!
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I have spent time going over the wiring diagram.
1. Circuit 39 (pink/black) and circuit 150(black) need to be “spliced”.
Does this mean I need the terminal ends and crimp tool?
Circuit 39 leads to a carb fuel solenoid. Do I need to splice this now that I have a manual choke?
I recently converted to a manual choke on my fresh 350sbc rebuild. Switched from electric edelbrock to a manual 600cfm holley.
I have included pictures of how I plan on changing my pin configuration. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/af2d295c983e388c0ddbb816a928a41d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/bac670624ef0b8fc34b3c42ec223acde.jpg)
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I have spent time going over the wiring diagram.
Circuit 39 (pink/black) and circuit 150 (black) need to be “spliced”.
Does this mean I need the terminal ends and crimp tool?
Circuit 39 leads to a carb fuel solenoid. Do I need to splice this now that I have a manual choke?
I recently converted to a manual choke on my fresh 350sbc rebuild. Switched from electric edelbrock to a manual 600cfm holley.
"Splice" means to permanently connect two or more conductors together at a common point. There are various methods of splicing wires. Generally, I use suitably sized, non-insulated, brazed barrel, butt or parallel splices that are firmly crimped using an appropriate dimple broach tool, soldered with 60/40 rosin core, and then weather-sealed with marine grade heat shrink.
There are many crimpers available for purchase at a broad range of prices, some limited to specific applications. Don't skimp on the crimp! A good pair of wire crimpers are a pleasure to use. With the exception of production-grade crimpers that are grossly overpriced, you get what you pay for as far as the precision of broach and durability of the tool are concerned. High rigidity of the crimper frame is important to achieve predictable, high-quality repeatability over the life of the tool.
Open barrel terminals are best crimped using "D" broach dies. Non-insulated, brazed barrel terminals fare better with dimple broach dies. Insulated terminals are best crimped using flat broach dies.
To be clear, ckt 39 (pnk/blk) is ignition feed; ckt 150 (blk) is ground. The two should never be spliced together! Any circuits that won't be used, now or in the future, can be deleted.
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The factory w/gauges IP connector has one additional pnk/blk (ckt 39) and one additional blk (ckt 150) wires than the w/o gauges IP connector. If your question concerns the addition of these two circuits then you have the option of cutting an existing pnk/blk and resplicing two-into-one (image); similarly with the black ground. Alternatives are to run completely new 18-gauge wires from the IP connector directly to a fuse box ignition tap and the cabin sheet metal ground OR install 6" long jumpers between one of the existing IP connector pnk/blk (39) wires and one of the existing blk (150) wires to the new pin locations using all new IP connector terminals.
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Thanks!
I have rearranged my wires. Am I correct in identifying that I am now going to no longer use circuit 25 and 50 (brown)?
Additionally, the wiring diagram shows a line running from circuit 30 (pink) to circuit 30(pink) on the w/ gauge pinout.
Do I need to splice and add another pink terminal to my pinout, or does this mean something other than splicing?
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Circuit 50 (I+ only in the "run" position of the ignition switch) should be reconnected to circuit 25 (I+ exciter circuit for the internal regulator in the alternator) through a 1N4002 - 1N4007 silicon diode, completely bypassing the cluster. The diode's cathode will point toward ckt 25 (image). Without this modification, the alternator will not recharge the battery. Adding the diode replaces one of the necessary functions of the red no-charge indicator light eliminated from the idiot light cluster. CAUTION - connecting ckts 25 & 50 directly together w/o the diode will melt the 18-gauge wiring and lead to an electrical fire!
Circuit 30 is the signal lead from the fuel tank sender to the dash gauge. I believe that two ckt 30 connections to the cluster are redundant to compensate for multiple PCB configurations. Inspect the cluster PCB to determine which foil path runs to the fuel gauge and pin the single ckt 30 wire accordingly.
Edit: added image
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I am learning a ton!
I have tried to figure out which diode to use, based on the range of diodes you provided.
Is this information found somewhere? Or is this something I can figure out with my multimeter?
How can I educate myself on learning which diode to use?
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Google 1N400x diode. The 1N400x series listed are 1-amp diodes. The only difference between them is their inverse voltage tolerance with 1N4002 being 100 volts and 1N4007 being 1,000 volts. Use any in the series. If you have to buy a pack, purchase 1N4007.
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In lieu of a diode, you can substitute a ~20 Ω, 3-watt resistor.
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I was able to purchase a small package of the diodes for under $2.
I just installed my new coolant temp sender for my gauges. I chose to use the intake manifold location as I would have has to unbolt my headers and power steering pump to remove the old 1/3 switch.
I plan on tackling the electrical in the next few days. I purchased all the required tools to solder that you mentioned.
I grabbed too small heat shrink tubing though. A closer look at your picture with the diode, I realized the structural integrity of the two wires locating inside the heat shrink was pretty critical.
I will post pics of progress soon.
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I have almost finished my install.
When I initially plugged in my new cluster with gauges, my oil pressure gauge climbed to max and now it wont come down. I unplugged the plug from the oil pressure sending unit, still no change.
My tachometer is also not working. It sits at 500RPM at all times. With and without ignition.
I verified I am plugged into the distributor.
I verified I have 12V ignition.
I verified I have a proper ground.
At one point I played with the ground while at idle and it seemed to jump to 1200RPM but did not change with actual RPM.
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Assuming the new PCB configuration you have matches the factory "with gauges" cluster for 1986, repin according to the alternate (with gauges) IP harness connector illustrated on the schematic. Otherwise, you will have to map out the new PCB and repin accordingly.
Why did you remove the images of the PCBs and the repinned IP connector? Repost them.
Did you map out the new PCB and compare it to the circuits on the wiring diagram or just repin the connector?
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Old PC
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/bd8fbb9a2bffd14d2998380927857f8e.jpg)
Tach conversion PC
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/d056c9e2b2aba4006e9a193e5247a6a8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/caa3e7628c713d8318e6022f725bb1e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/847c40f3d961720513454081fab79d98.jpg)
I felt my post was disorganized. I wanted to make my post a bit more organized to read.
I removed and labeled all wires and repinned based on the schematic you guys provided.
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When I initially plugged in my new cluster with gauges, my oil pressure gauge climbed to max and now it wont come down. I unplugged the plug from the oil pressure sending unit, still no change.
My tachometer is also not working. It sits at 500RPM at all times. With and without ignition.
I verified I am plugged into the distributor.
I verified I have 12V ignition.
I verified I have a proper ground.
At one point I played with the ground while at idle and it seemed to jump to 1200RPM but did not change with actual RPM.
Ground the oil pressure gauge sender wire. Does the gauge drop to zero?
To which distributor terminal is the tach signal wire connected? Probe the signal wire at the back of the tach head using an incandescent test light. Does the test light brighten with increasing engine RPM?
I removed and labeled all wires and repinned based on the schematic you guys provided.
After mapping out the new PCB against the IP cluster connector using your posted images, it seems to be correctly pinned. However, the voltmeter should have only two of its pins connected: one to ground, one to I+. It appears to have two pins grounded.
Did you figure out why the left turn indicator was always illuminated?
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/03be9929764c41e98cca26c0333dcff0.jpg)
I will attempt your suggestions tomorrow!
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Tach wire for gauge is connected to tach side of distributor.
Checked distributor with multimeter, it reads voltage and increases with rpm increase.
Grounded oil pressure gauge cable. The gauge remains pinned full.
Would you mind clarifying your point on the voltmeter having two grounds? Did I pin incorrectly?
I believe the harness was not fully plugged in. I no longer have the left turn signal issue.
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Tach wire for gauge is connected to tach side of distributor.
Checked distributor with multimeter, it reads voltage and increases with rpm increase.
Grounded oil pressure gauge cable. The gauge remains pinned full.
Would you mind clarifying your point on the voltmeter having two grounds? Did I pin incorrectly?
Recheck the tach signal at the tach head.
An oil pressure gauge pinned past maximum implies an open in the sender wire. Use a short jumper and momentarily ground the signal wire pin on the back of the oil gauge. With the ignition ON does the gauge drop to zero?
The IP connector is pinned correctly, but you've installed one too many clips to the back of the voltmeter. Remove the clip circled in red in the attached image.
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Is that a manual choke handle? I haven't seen one since my old '57 Apache! Thanks for the memory...
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Haha yeah I switched to a manual choke for my 350 rebuild. I prefer it for canadian winters over the electric.
Are there any suggested methods to secure the PC once I remove that clip, other than duct tape.
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The adjacent clip is so close the PCB won't go anywhere. Besides, the adhesive on tape might chemically react with the plastic and copper foils of the PCB. I would let it be.
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When i ground the oil pressure gauge, the needle returns to low.
**I am going to ensure my oil pressure sending unit wire is the same wire running from plug to pinout. If it is, I will use my multimeter and see if I have an open circuit.
I have a tach signal at the tach. I have 12v ignition at the tach. I also have proper ground. Is it possibly a dead tachometer?
**I am going to re terminate my ground that I created and add solder. I wonder if my ground is the issue.
I removed the second ground from the voltmeter, I no longer have intermittent failure with my voltmeter! Thank you!
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I confirmed I have proper ground. I made a new terminal end. Still no tach.
I also discovered that crkt 32(tan) in position 5 of my pinout, is not the same wire that runs to my oil pressure sending unit plug. I checked from the plug to the wire harness terminal, no continuity.
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If you have an incandescent test light, clip it to B+ then probe the ground wire that connects to the tach head. The test light should illuminate normally bright. If it does, the ground connection is sound. Once you're satisfied that all the external circuit connections have been verified, you should suspect a faulty tach head.
In itself, 'no continuity' doesn't necessarily mean you connected the wrong circuit to the oil gauge. It simply may be open. You need to perform additional tests for verification. Use the factory wiring diagram to ID where the oil pressure gauge wire passes through the firewall bulkhead connector. Check for continuity between the bulkhead connector and the gauge. Then check for continuity between the bulkhead connector and the sender.
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Replacement tachometer on the way.
I will verify bulkhead wiring in the next few days.
Using my multimeter, I connected to the oil pressure sending unit wire and touched the negative terminal to ground. This did not show any continuity either. This is why I am suspecting incorrect wiring.
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Using my multimeter, I connected to the oil pressure sending unit wire and touched the negative terminal to ground. This did not show any continuity either.
Still not conclusive since an open in the correct wiring would show zero continuity.
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I believe I found the problem. The red circled pin(male/female) is from my crkt31 (tan). (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200121/8298552bcc2a687cfeadfc4e97111f8d.jpg)
1. What can I do to repin this?
2. Does this look like grease and dirt, or electric burn? (**UPDATE: I have since read a post about a guy who pulled all the pins and cleaned, I will likely attempt this. I am assuming this is the substance that gets more viscous over time)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200121/9270503c1c4594f40dc15a00533e864b.jpg)
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Flitz Metal Pre-clean followed by small brush and lots of water to rinse the gunk away.
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Unless you know for an absolute fact that Flitz is non-caustic, avoid using it on electrical terminals! I hesitate that Flitz Pre-Clean may be acidic, which could impose long-term damage.
The black "tar" is factory applied antioxidant-sealer. It's a good thing. It protects the connections from oxidation. Don't remove it. If it's too late and the product has already been cleaned away, replenish it using Truck-Lite NYK-77 (preferred), NOALOX, Ox-Gard or similar antioxidant compound.
It looks like the female terminal was simply dislodged and pushed out of the cabin side of the bulkhead connector. That or someone relocated/removed it. Separate the fuse box from the bulkhead connector (2 screws and two clips) and look for the dislodged wire sandwiched between the two. You may need to slightly bend the locking tang on the back of the terminal then reinsert it into the connector and reassemble everything.
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Using my multimeter, and the wiring diagram you provided, I have discovered that there are two crkt31 locations on my bulkhead. I just need to switch, from “old” to “new” as shown on my picture posted. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200122/4a01ff9fe640e6014f20cb620543f4cb.jpg)
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I swapped the terminal end on my bulkhead to the previously posted location. I now have continuity in crkt 31 from my wiring harness pinout #5 to my oil pressure sending unit plug!
Thank you for the help and guidance!
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There are some pieces missing from our conversation. LOL
Look at the circuit diagram again. There is only one bulkhead cavity used for ckt 31. The cavity you marked as "new" is the cavity for ckt 931, which should be the dark blue wire that originally ran to the choke OPS pictured near the beginning of this thread (second post). From the factory, ckt 31 is tan from the OP gauge all the way out to the gauge sender.
In real time, what color wire did you connect to the new gauge sender? Are you trying to repurpose the three-wire choke OPS connector to mate with the new single terminal sender? The OP gauge sender uses a Packard 56 single wire connector and terminal (images).
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The wire I used to connect to my oil pressure sending unit is tan. Circled below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200122/f4bf78e0d76341292978b244c5dc086d.jpg)
When I checked for continuity of my tan wire, pinout 5, it was located in the position of 931 on my bulkhead. Also, a tan wire.
I swapped the terminal end from 931 into 31 location, which was empty, and reconnected the bulkhead.
I then had continuity from pinout 5 to my oil pressure sending unit plug. Previously circled in red.
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Got it. Someone in the past got creative. Thanks for the clarification.
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It appears so haha
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My oil pressure gauge appears to read “H”, which is in the “60” position of the alternative gauge, with numbers.
When I increase RPM above idle, the needle goes slightly beyond “H”.
The oil pressure gauge is brand new. The sending unit is used, off an old 350.
When I turn the key off, the needle stays pinned. Once I recycle the key to 12V on, just prior to ignition, the gauge drops back down to zero.
Should I add an inline resistor to fine tune my gauge needle position?
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Three diagnostic steps to take:
- Use a mechanical test gauge to measure the engine oil pressure and acquire an actual number.
- Use whatever means necessary to inspect the 9/16" hex base nut of the sender for a two-digit number. This is the sender calibration in PSI. It should be 60.
- Procure a 30-Ohm, 1/2-watt resistor (or substitute a ~1,000 Ohm potentiometer, adjusted to 30 Ohms using your multimeter). Disconnect the sender wire from the sender. Insert the resistor between the sender wire and a shiny clean ground point. Switch the ignition ON and read the OP gauge. It should sweep to center scale. Does it?
The gauge needle hanging at any given position with the ignition OFF is irrelevant since there is no spring to return the needle to zero.
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I have ordered a resistor and it is set to arrive on Thursday of next week.
I ran my truck to warm up the oil and see if the gauge would come down at all. It did not.
During the engine warm up, I have discovered my temp gauge also does not work.
Leading from my coolant temperate sending unit plug, I have a dark green wire running to my firewall - it runs to location 931 on the bulkhead(male). Instead of the crkt 35 position as it should, based on the wiring diagram provided.
Inside my cab, I have my dark green wire on my pinout @ position #9. I have traced this to the the appropriate crkt 35 position on the bulkhead(female).
It appears that crkt 35 has been switched at some point, on the bulkhead(male) in the engine bay.
I went to switch the terminal again, inside the cab, and simply place the dark green wire in the crkt 931 position to provide continuity from the plug, to position #9 on the pinout. I discovered that there are TWO dark green wires running to that terminal.
Will this cause any issues, If I move this terminal, to match the bulkhead feeder wire under the hood? I am not sure why there are TWO dark green wires.
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I have a dark green wire running to my firewall crkt 35 - it runs to location 931 on the bulkhead(male).
^^^^ This comment is unintelligible.
Inside my cab, I have my dark green wire on my pinout @ position #9. I have traced this to the appropriate crkt 35 position on the bulkhead(female).
I went to switch the terminal again, inside the cab, and simply place the dark green wire in the crkt 931 position to provide continuity from the plug, to position #9 on the pinout.
Why not route the wires through the bulkhead so they match the factory diagram? It will make the current project, not to mention future diagnoses, so much easier.
It appears that crkt 35 has been switched at some point, on the bulkhead(male) in the engine bay.
I discovered that there are TWO dark green wires running to that terminal.
I think it is likely that age, heat and chemicals have altered the "apparent" colors of the original wiring. Ckt 931 from the factory was dark blue. Still, anything is possible. Trace the wires conclusively and match them as necessary.
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I updated my post, to hopefully make more sense.
Why would there be TWO dark green wires on the female side of the bulkhead, crkt 35? Did crkt931 have two dark blue wires?
I was hoping to not have to repin the male side of the bulkhead, as it has the anti corrosive compound.
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Why would there be TWO dark green wires on the female side of the bulkhead, crkt 35?
I misinterpreted your prior question. The wiring diagram is your friend. Look at it. Study it. On vehicles having idiot lights instead of gauges (the "BASE" configuration such as your truck before the conversion), the second green wire runs to the ignition switch where it grounds through the switch in the crank position. This supplemental circuit illuminates the red overtemp warning lamp during engine crank for a "warning lamp test." The supplemental wire is unnecessary when gauges are used. Hence, it can be severed at the bulkhead connector and/or removed from the ignition switch connector and taped up when converting to gauges.
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Ok that makes sense! Thank you.
I am still very ignorant with the diagram. But I have learned quite a bit since you guys have started to help me utilize them. I saw the “base” one the diagram but was unsure what it meant.
Now I know.
Thanks again.
Will report back when I have made more progress now.
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Understandable. The "base" note as printed on the diagram is more of an anomaly, meaning that it is not in common usage. It is encountered only occasionally. If you have specific questions about how to read a diagram, don't be bashful about asking.
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I procured a 30ohm 1/2watt resistor.
With the resistor,the needle sweeps back down to half.
Should I now wire this inline permanently?
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The resistor just verified proper gauge function. It is for test purposes only. Do not install it permanently! Sounds like you have a faulty oil pressure sensor.
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Aw come on bd, let him leave it permanent before we get to five pages!!!
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Is it straining your attention span? ;D
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Touche my friend, touche!!
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I ended up putting the double green crkt35(under dash), in the 931(under hood)position to provide continuity from coolant temp sensor to pinout. I left the second green wire, connected from the bulkhead that illuminates the test light.
I replaced my oil pressure sending unit with a slightly larger, 60psi calibrated sending unit.
Voltmeter, oil pressure and coolant temp gauges all work properly now!!
I now have to troubleshoot my fuel gauge, but will do so in a different post if required. I see there is a lot of info on this, so I will do my best to work through old posts first.
When my new tach [faulty from factory]comes in, I will post a final picture.
Thanks for everyones time!
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Thank for hanging in there and giving positive feedback!
BTW, that is one CLEAN motor and surroundings! What does the rest of your girl look like?
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Thanks! Here are a couple recent pictures.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200210/5eb1677857effdd3f08826d3e4a885e6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200210/ba747c9498e4683a1035af65f33e7544.jpg)
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Nice rig!
I see you suffer from UFS too...
Ugly Firewall Syndrome...Ugghhh