73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks > Engine/Drivetrain

357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

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Mike81K10:
I am building a new engine. I disassembled my engine and took my Block, Rods, and pistons into a shop to be cleaned and inspected. Afterwards, I will get my new cast steel crank, rods, and pistons balanced at another shop.

Should I buy new heads or keep my OEM?
My heads are OEM (882), low miles on a rebuild 194 intake. I am thinking about buying a new set of cast steel heads with an intake valve of 2.020; exhaust valve 1.600. If I do go with the new heads, would it make much of a difference in HP and Torque.  Summit Racing™ Cast Iron Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy; Cylinder Head, Cast Iron, Assembled, 72cc Chamber, 165cc Intake Runner, Chevy, 302, 327, 350, 400.

The cam I plan to use is: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits CL12-235-2; Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 254/262, Lift .447/.462. Details of cam below.
Basic Operating RPM Range:
1,000-5,200
Camshaft Use:
Street/Strip
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
210
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
218
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
210 int./218 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
254
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
262
Advertised Duration:
254 int./262 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.447 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.462 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.447 int./0.462 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
111

VileZambonie:
Drop those 882 heads in the ocean. All of your power is lost in those boat anchors. Spend the money and be happy. Also that cam is not a big power maker either, you may want to consider something with a little more bite.

Captkaos:
882 heads are 76cc Chamber, 151cc intake vs the Summit 72cc Chamber, 165cc Intake Runner.  with the SAME pistons, compression will go up slightly and intake volume will increase, different pistons, different story.
With a cam targeting 5200rpm, IMO it would be a waste of money, not because they are bad or the cam is bad but because it appears that you are targeting low end power.

With that said what is your intended purpose of the build?  How are you expecting it to run/sound?  What is the trucks intended purpose?
what kind of pistons are you getting?  What is your target compression ratio?  what intake?  What trans? what gearing?  This needs to put together as a complete package IMO.

Mike81K10:
I have .40 over flat top TRW 10-1 compression pistons. I was planning to continue using my Qjet Rochester Carb that is new. I have not bought the heads yet, would a set of aluminum heads be better? I have OEM rods that I planned to get balanced with my new crank if they check out good.

I want a dependable driver with better HP and Torque with a better response. Would like to be able to carry loads and tow/pull when needed.

I once build a 350 for a MonteCarlo (car was stolen and never found) I owned and is had a little thump to it. A racing engine shop in Florida did all my machine work and helped me with it. Cannot recall the cam I used but the car was very fast and had awesome response and I had a 750 Double pumper on it. They machine shop also did custom head work, port, polish, bored the heads to 2.020 intake, worked the valve seats, 3 angle valve work, heavy springs, and etc. Pic of my 77 Monte Carlo is attached and my formerly owned 76 Bronco (I wish I had kept).

For my truck, it does not have to be as radical at my MonteCarlo was.

I plan to buy a set of:
1) Hedman 304 Stainless Steel Headers 62093 - Headers, Long Tube, 304 Stainless Steel, Black Ceramic Coated, Chevy, GMC, Pair
2) COMP Cams Magnum Roller Tip Rocker Arms 1412-16 - Rocker Arms, Stud Mount, Roller Tip, Chromoly Steel, 1.52 Ratio, Fits 3/8 in. Stud, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 16 (for the Cast 2.020 Heads I planned to buy, unless I go with something else, like aluminum heads.
3) Also need to purchase new push rods

Mike81K10:
My block and rods should be done by Wednesday of next week and then I need to get the rotating assembly balanced.

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