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Projects Posts (NOT VEHICLES) / Re: Brass Bow Tie
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on July 26, 2024, 09:48:15 PM »
That is AWESOME!   That is real hot rodding stuff.   Making what you want when you cannot find it it!   Very NICE!
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General Discussion / Re: 55 mph on highways ?
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on July 26, 2024, 09:31:37 PM »
Wow Kenny, I'm glad that you're ok enough to post that!  Did the rager get charged?

It was several years ago.   I didn't even get a bump on myself...  old truck was heavy and I was holding the brakes as hard a i could.   he didn't move it much was why he left so much of his car behind.   Guy had no tag at all.  cops said likely a stolen car.   Rager got away.   I'm totally okay with that because it didn't step up to the next level.   any time things do step up to the next level I'm okay with it when only vehicles got damage.  I've wondered what happened tho to the other drivers that were involved in the pileup.  It was Sunday and there were several mini vans in there.   I hope they are OK.   
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General Discussion / Re: 55 mph on highways ?
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on July 26, 2024, 09:28:02 PM »
☝️ That's what I was worried about, I was almost fully on the shoulder and the Tacoma had maybe 100 yards before a head on collision before he whipped into my lane!

One of my biggest issues right now is a driveline vibration. I can't run faster than 60 or it feels like the truck will shake apart. I already had the rear drive line completely gone through. And while it helped my pinion angle is off because of 2.5" lift springs I just installed.

I'm going to abstain from highway driving until I get the issues fixed so I can run 70 smoothly. Maybe that way I won't end up with someone up my rear bumper like happened with you.

You have no obligation to run 70 or even 60 or even 50 on any road anywhere in this country.   That being said, do what makes you most comfortable.
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Hey all,

It's been a while since I've posted anything. I've made a little progress on this truck but its still pretty rough.

In the last two years I've replaced the power steering pump, the carburetor, the gas tank, the radiator, and the king pins. Now it doesn't have water in the gas tank.. doesn't leak radiator fluid, and the steering doesn't bind up!

Last week I took the sander off and took her for a short drive (maybe 10 miles). The suspension is in rough shape. The front has a bit of give but the back has nothing. Also, front and rear shocks are new.
Does anyone have thoughts on:
1) this suspension is shot
2) how to achieve some degree of ride quality and support a one ton load capacity (I've got a sander), its probably 1000lb empty

On topic #1 I'm thinking that the main spring is too flat and that its real bad... since I'm riding on the helper springs with no load... I'd think that there should be some real load at least 1000lb if not more before the helper springs are into play.

On topic #2 I'm specifically wondering if it would be reasonable to replace the springs and eliminate the  helper springs and replace them with timbren springs or something like that. I realize there are a lot of options, there are places that could recrown the springs, there are airbags and different helper spings in addition to different spring packs...

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Jesse
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Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension / Re: Front Crossmember Question
« Last post by MY1978 on July 26, 2024, 02:47:07 PM »
Okay,

First I want to thank everyone for their thoughts and suggestions.  As I stated, removing the one rivet, making sure the bumper bracket bolts were tight (some needed some tweeking) and making sure the steering box bolts were tight and the issues is considerably  less than it was - like down to millimeters.

I sometimes feel that when I would roll up to an inspection station, due to the age of my truck, they WANT to find something wrong.  How could anything this old not have something wrong with it.  Makes them money if I decide to have them fix it.  Point in case, last year I had the truck inspected and they told me I needed new wiper blades.  Okay, but I used them before I left home to wash away dust and they seemed fine.  So I told them to replace them.  Then, I was told my passenger lower ball joint was bad.  I told them how could that be as they were replaced with the past couple of years.  Shrug of the shoulders and they slapped that rejection sticker happily on the windshield and I left.  Lucky for me, I keep receipts and yes, they had been replaced just about 2 years ago and they were Moog ball joints.  I called the shop that installed them and they said bring it in and they would check it out.  Turns out, it wasn't bad, it just needed some more grease in the fitting and voila - fixed.  I had it inspected there and it passed.  Fast forward to this year, and about 200 miles later, and was told I had a frame crack yet tightening up some bolts and replacing a rivet solved the problem.  I know that this can be an issue with these trucks and I will continue to monitor it.

So, I have come up with a solution - I am getting "Antique" tags.  In Virginia I can get Antique tags with personalization.   I like my tag (NOT4SL) and a lot of people like it.  The only restrictions are that it cannot be my sole mode of transportation/daily driver and I cannot go over 250 miles away from my home.  Neither is a problem.  The best part......No inspections.  Now does that mean I will not take it for courtesy inspections - nope.  I just will not have to be haunted by a possible "rejection" sticker for whatever reason.  I still want it to be a safe drive. 

I feel comfortable with this decision.  I have owned this truck since she rolled off the assembly line, she was special ordered and built for ME, she has never left me stranded and I do not feel she ever will. There are times when I think she drove ME home safely due to too much indulgence - young, dumb and stupid - I know I am not the only one here that has done that.  I have taken excellent care of her, and she has taken care of me.  One day we will part ways.  It will be a sad day when that happens, but all good things must come to an end.

And YES, it is a SHE, why else would the name be Ol' Holly.   My mom's car was Betsy.   ;D

Thanks again for all the help.
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Members Rides / Re: 84 Jimmy Build
« Last post by 1981lt1 on July 26, 2024, 02:42:35 PM »
Progress has been slow but i'm moving forward.  The roof is proving to be much more challenging to fit but it's coming along.  Since it's just me, I have to be careful moving it around on the car and taking it off and on so many times as I don't want to bend it or warp it.  As of today, I'm committed to its placement.  Once I start the body work, I'll weld some rod and tighten up the gaps for the door opening.









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Members Rides / Re: 84 Jimmy Build
« Last post by VileZambonie on July 25, 2024, 08:31:55 PM »
Tighten up that windshield area first as fitting that glass is critical. You can cut and shrink the area behind it to tighten it up into the door area.
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Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension / Re: Front Crossmember Question
« Last post by VileZambonie on July 25, 2024, 08:24:30 PM »
Let's be clear on a few things.. A shop charging accordingly is not "ripping you off". Paying for services is expensive and the mechanics of this era are either dead, retired or entering the last 20 years of their working lives. The others working on classics are charging appropriately and rightfully so. A shop declining repairs did you good as this is not their line of work and they know better than to go down a rabbit hole having you upset at outcomes. I believe you can fix these issues relatively inexpensively by yourself or finding other enthusiasts in your area. There is no need to spend thousands to fix the steering box frame issue if you even still have one. You have help and advice here to help you so don't make any rash decisions.
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Electrical / Re: Original ground to new headlight connection
« Last post by bd on July 25, 2024, 12:20:23 PM »
Connect all of the ground wires (including the ground from the headlamp) directly to the original attachment point on the radiator support.

This ^^^^^ is electrically identical to the original configuration.  The factory had two black wires crimped to the headlamp ground terminal strictly for assembly line convenience; one less wire to screw down using a ring terminal.  As long as the connections are clean and tight, all is good.
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Electrical / Re: Original ground to new headlight connection
« Last post by Chanman09 on July 25, 2024, 11:38:22 AM »
another pic
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