73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks > Blazers/Jimmys

I bit the bullet this weekend V20 burb to K5 swap

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fitz:
In my younger days I was grenading 10 bolt rears (3.42 gears) running 33" tires.
As far as removing the engine/trans/transfer case as 1 unit, i don't think so.  I tried it before with a 6.2 diesel, turbo 400, 208 set up and I couldn't get it done. I had the radiator support out then I tried it.

1967KaiserM715:
The whole front end with the lights that the radiator bolts too. I've never tried to remove the whole engine with a transfer case before, only with a tranny, and sometimes it was touch and go to get over the front.


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MuddiGGEr25:

--- Quote from: Captkaos on March 01, 2017, 12:18:10 PM ---30 or 31 will be ok with the 3.42's, anything bigger I would regear.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

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according to the options sheet in the glovebox it came with 31x10.50r15 tires originally, and Cliffy had 3.42 10 bolt axles before i swapped in the 3/4 ton ones and i was running 30x9.50r15 and i was very pleased with the amount of oomph vs weight, 0-60 times were 7-8 seconds steady, only got rid of them bc PO has run the bearing down then used a saver bearing then wore that one out too. IMO 10 bolt axles are a bit on the weak side for a 6,000+lb truck and 7,500 with passengers and gear lol, i would think with the blazer being 2500lbs lighter i might be comfortable with 33's not sure though


--- Quote from: fitz on March 01, 2017, 01:00:31 PM ---In my younger days I was grenading 10 bolt rears (3.42 gears) running 33" tires.

If the 10bolt rear cannot take it, can the front? ive read that the 10bolt front is on par with a dana 44 for strength and uses a regular open diff

As far as removing the engine/trans/transfer case as 1 unit, i don't think so.  I tried it before with a 6.2 diesel, turbo 400, 208 set up and I couldn't get it done. I had the radiator support out then I tried it.

Ive decided to remove the Tcase first so i can inspect/rebuild and reseal the leaky edge, then its just a matter of squeezing the 5.7L/TH350 out of there,  i would think that if i put the front on stands  so as to angle the truck up and off the leaf springs i would gain 10-12" of clearance... thats what i had to on our class C motorhome when i put in the 454..../b]

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--- Quote from: 1967KaiserM715 on March 01, 2017, 04:26:40 PM ---The whole front end with the lights that the radiator bolts too. I've never tried to remove the whole engine with a transfer case before, only with a tranny, and sometimes it was touch and go to get over the front.
Thanks for clearing that up


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New question, kinda.

I have the 14FF rear and corp 10 front i put on Cliffy the donor, they are geared 4.10, but the front ( 8 lug 10 bolt) looks like this:  /---{}---\ and the 10 bolt on the k5 looks like this: |---{}---|, how hard would it be to swap the 4.10 ring and pinion from the 3/4 ton into the 1/2ton 10bolt and maybe swap all the 8 lug stuff over too? I can keep it 6lug and just grab a set of 8lug to 6 lug adapters for the rear, thats totally an option if needed to simplfy the process.

Irish_Alley:
why not replace the ball joints?

MuddiGGEr25:
I was told the axle itself is worn, I get very little play when I jack it up and put a 6ft pry bar under it. it spent 380K under a 3/4 ton 6.2l God knows how much abuse it took

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