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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Power Windows & Door Locks => Topic started by: MichaelSnapper on July 22, 2016, 10:44:42 AM
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Hello, I have a 1986 C10 Silverado Edition with power windows and power door locks. The passenger side connectors on the power window switch wires broke off. I purchased a new connector and switch my problem is the power connector came with five gray wires. I found a diagram and followed it to the letter, but it still will not work the windows. I've rearranged the wires in different configurations, can get the window to go up but not down down but not up and so on. I have a pink wire, brown wire, tan wire, blue wire, blue wire with white strip. Looking for any help - suggestions and or diagrams. Thank you very much!
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ill send you a picture tomorrow
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I made a sketch in an attempt to help you, i also included the wiring diagram.
(http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/josh_brooks2/window%20switch.png) (http://s1269.photobucket.com/user/josh_brooks2/media/window%20switch.png.html)
just look at this sketch and wire accordingly, the top left wire (when holding connector in this same fashion) will be tan, the middle top wire will be brown, right top wire will be pink.
bottom left wire will be dark blue, bottom right wire will be dark blue / white
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Hello, Thank you for the help & diagrams. I wired just as you have in pic. I only have drivers side. Can't get passenger side to do anything now. I'll take your diagram out and try again. Thank you!
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Ok,, had blue & blue w/wht switched. Pink & tan switched. Corrected, still nothing. Anyway to hot wire to see if motor will move. It worked before, but leds broke off switch connector, so I bought a new one & switch that's it. Thx again.
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the brown and blue should go to window motor, you can jump power and ground to them to move it. reverse polarity to make it move opposite direction
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have you checked for power and ground at switch?
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Thanks, I'll try your suggestions. I haven't checked for power, for it worked at one point, will check that too. Thx again!
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Ok. Jumped wires - able to make window go up & down. I do not have a meter.
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Still nothing. Just a side note. Passenger window doesn't work from drivers door either. Took door panel off drivers side again, connections seem good, w/of meter?
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Ok, the way I have it wired now. When I switch the pink & tan window will go up but not down, switch and so on...
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The guy who built this truck, did his own thing so I kind of figured this wiring is a little twisted if you know what I mean. Stuff like, I found that the distributor was off by one tooth when I went to do a tune up, plus two different door locks, ect. Thanks for your time & help. Have to trace all the wires. Take care, be safe.
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...Passenger window doesn't work from drivers door either....
If the passenger window doesn't roll in either direction from the driver's door switch, there is an open in either the tan or the dark blue/white wires connecting the left and right door switches.
If the right window rolls in one direction only using the left switch, replace the left door switch.
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The drivers side doesn't move the passenger side. The passenger side moves in one direction. What is an open wire, is it a break in the line? How do I fix? Thank you.
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An "open" is a loss of continuity through a circuit. Open circuits in the window wiring commonly result from wires breaking due to fatigue from flexing where they pass through the flexible rubber conduits between the doors and the door jambs. But, it could also be as simple as a connection problem at the left door switch or the in-line harness connector under the dash.
Begin by determining which wire is causing the problem in case the problem suddenly becomes intermittent. Remove the right door panel to gain access to the door switch connector. Unplug the connector from the right switch. Connect a test light or voltmeter between a verified, bare metal ground and probe the tan wire in the connector. Operate the left door switch for the right window motor in both the up and down directions. In one of the switch directions the tan wire should become hot (12 volts). Repeat the process for the dark blue/white wire. Similarly, in one switch direction the dark blue/white wire should become hot. If either wire never becomes hot, there is a break in that wire somewhere between the left and right door switches. That is the wire that you will need to investigate and/or trace.
Now, remove the left door panel to gain access to the left switch and connector. Inspect for a broken or loose wire or poor connection between the harness plug and the switch. If the cause isn't readily apparent and you need to trace wiring, pay particular attention for an internal break in the offending wire as it passes through the rubber conduits between the jambs and doors. Also check for poor connections through the in-line harness connector behind the dash.
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Looks like I'll be busy for awhile. I don't have a meter. Do you recommend any? Am I for now able to take a jumper wire & run it from door to door, wire to wire (Tan & Blue w/wht stripe) to see if there is a break? Thank you!
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Use an incandescent (analog) test light (http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/circuit-tester/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-multi-tester/69335_0_0/?checkfit=true), they're effective and cheaper. Candidly, if you have time to string wire you have time to figure out, at least, which wire is causing the problem.
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Ok, I took a test light and did as you said. Only wire that would light up/show hot was the Pink.
p.s. I had ignition key to on position.
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Repeat the test at the left door switch (dark blue/white and tan) with the wires connected to the switch. What happens?
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Same thing, except divers window shows hot.
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Same thing, except divers window shows hot.
What do you mean? If you are saying the left window rolls up and down just fine, but the blue/white and tan wires at the left switch never become hot when flipping the switch in either direction, replace the left window switch.
In the meantime, with the left switch plugged in and the right switch unplugged, ignition on, connect your test light between the pink and tan wires and then the pink and blue/white wires at the right window switch connector. If the test light illuminates in both cases, the wires running to the opposite door have continuity.
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The pink & tan light up.
The pink & blue/wht does not light up.
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Still switch?
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The pink & tan light up.
The pink & blue/wht does not light up.
Still switch?
If I'm tracking with you and you were checking at the passenger side window switch connector, there is an open in the blue/white circuit - meaning either in the wire (which includes the in-line connector behind the dash) or the left door switch or both the wire and the switch. To narrow the culprit further, unplug the left door switch and jumper the blue/white wire in the left door to a good ground. Check for continuity using your test light across the pink and blue/white wires in the right door as you did before. If the test light illuminates, replace the switch. If not, start tracing the blue/white wire through the cab, focusing on the in-line connector and where the wires pass through the jambs.
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It lit up, ordering switch now.
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Okay! A smile upon my face. Got new switch, both sides working again. I am so Thankful for ALL your Time, Help & Consideration! Take Care, Be Safe!
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You're welcome!
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p.s. Thx for the education!