1988 suburban with cummins 4bta and ford zf5-s42

[wildcatjason]

I just complete the rear transmission mounts. I decided I wanted to get some of the shake of it so I used these hydraulic mounts out of a late 80s, early 90s taurus.

[Edahall]

I just complete the rear transmission mounts. I decided I wanted to get some of the shake of it so I used these hydraulic mounts out of a late 80s, early 90s taurus.

That looks nice.  It'll be interesting to hear back on how well it works.

[wildcatjason]

Thanks man..I just bought a zf5 clutch line for the slave. I found a hydraulic connector on www.mcmastercarr.com that is good for 4000 psi with no flaring or soldering necessary, so I am going to connect some brake line to my wilwood master cylinder. I have to put in that chevy sensor, make some sheetmetal for the hole in the floor that I cut for the tranny, hook up the grid heater, finish connecting the starter, get a shifter from my dad he's making at work, and get the  driveshaft modified. It's coming along.

[wildcatjason]

Yes, I bet the sensors have different resistance values which is throwing your gauge off.  However, there are option here.
1.  Use a reducer so you can run a chevy sensor
2.  Hook a resistor so that resistance matches to a Chevy sensor
4.  Put a different face on the temperature gauge

But first off, find the resistance of the sensor when the engine is cold (say 70 degrees) and after the engine is fully warmed up.

Regarding mufflers, here's the muffler you want.  This muffler is free flowing and quiet and I don't think you'll find a better price for it.  If you're running a 3" exhaust, use a reducer to get the size down.

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/oid/78183/erm/productDetail.do

I wanted to thank you. I have working gauges that to your suggestion regarding using the chevy gauges to the chevy dash. I should have a working driveshaft by the end of the day, but my injection pump started leaking yesterday and now I have to have it overhauled. Looks like I'm dropping 400 bucks to have it overhauled. It does get up to 210 it you let if idle for a long time (about 30 min)in warm weather (75 degrees) without the fan. Oil pressure is running around 40psi.  Thank you again for the suggestion.

[Edahall]

I wanted to thank you. I have working gauges that to your suggestion regarding using the chevy gauges to the chevy dash. I should have a working driveshaft by the end of the day, but my injection pump started leaking yesterday and now I have to have it overhauled. Looks like I'm dropping 400 bucks to have it overhauled. It does get up to 210 it you let if idle for a long time (about 30 min)in warm weather (75 degrees) without the fan. Oil pressure is running around 40psi.  Thank you again for the suggestion.

You're welcome.  Regarding the leaking injection pump, make sure you're adding some type of lubricant to your fuel.  This Ultra Low Sulfur junk that we are having to pay a surcharge for is not friendly to these older injection systems.  I've heard of people adding motor oil or transmission oil but I'm using 2-cycle oil since it's made to burn. 

[wildcatjason]

edahall, you may or may not remember when you hooked up your coolant gauge, but I checked the resistance of my wiring leading to the gauge and found a green wire going to it. I hooked this up and ran even though my previous sensor had two wires (yellow and black) which led to the computer for which I removed. The green wire actually went to the coolant fan temp switch from what I read on the wiring schematic. (I had a mechanical fan but that is what haynes says) I know my gauge is still wrong with this one wire chevy sensor I bought. My yellow and black wire are gone because I took out the computer wiring harness. I can find how the computer led to the gauges. The rest is intact. I have my old sensor with the two wires and I know my gauge is off. It will go to 220, but my electric fan with a 190 on, 175 off sensor has been on 3 times since I've driven it. Any help I appreciate I'd like to have an accurate factory gauge. THANKS!

[Edahall]

I can't exactly remember but I'll take a look and report back what I've got.

[wildcatjason]

I just want to make sure it's accurate. My truck is going clear to 220 at idle and it doesn't make sense that the front of the engine is 30 degrees cooler then the back because the 190 on fan is in the top front before the thermostat. Think of changing the thermostat.

[Edahall]

I checked mine and I'm just running the single green wire just like your setup to the temperature sensor.  Have you checked the resistance of the temperature sensor when the engine is fully warmed up?  You want to compare that value to what the gauge reports to you.

Also, I'll measure the resistance of my sensor at running temperature and we can compare.

[wildcatjason]

Well I apprecitate it, but it was the thermostat. I have gone over 200, but one time since I replaced it. It was a new thermostat that I replaced. I hate when new parts are bad!!

[Edahall]

Well I apprecitate it, but it was the thermostat. I have gone over 200, but one time since I replaced it. It was a new thermostat that I replaced. I hate when new parts are bad!!

Good to hear that a good thermostat corrected the issue.  What was the situation where it went over 200?  The only time the temperature rises on mine is if I'm pulling something too heavy.

[wildcatjason]

I have no idea. I was just driving and looked down saw that it was at 210. It never did it again. I haven't towed with it at all. I will worry if it does it more frequently. I am excited to see what kinda gas mileage I am going to get. I have been through half tank so far and have 250-300 miles on it. That is a lot of city driving. This is a far cry from what it was doing. The vibrations aren't bad, but it is a noisy thing. I need to work on calming down the cab. I think if I can sound proof just the forward part of the floorboards and under the hood it would make a world of difference. There is a lot noise coming from the shifter boot and transmission hump. Even adding a lubricant to the fuel tank calmed down the engine.

[Edahall]

I have no idea. I was just driving and looked down saw that it was at 210. It never did it again. I haven't towed with it at all. I will worry if it does it more frequently. I am excited to see what kinda gas mileage I am going to get. I have been through half tank so far and have 250-300 miles on it. That is a lot of city driving. This is a far cry from what it was doing. The vibrations aren't bad, but it is a noisy thing. I need to work on calming down the cab. I think if I can sound proof just the forward part of the floorboards and under the hood it would make a world of difference. There is a lot noise coming from the shifter boot and transmission hump. Even adding a lubricant to the fuel tank calmed down the engine.

The elevated temperature may have been due to a trapped bubble in the system that needed some time to purge out.

You'll need to add some type of mass loaded barrier to tame the noise down.  There are a number of ways to accomplish this some a lot less costly than others.

[wildcatjason]

I've been searching it online. I have a few inexpensive ideas. Kinda leaning towards dirt cheap.

[wildcatjason]

Figured I'd show off a little gas mileage action. This picture is from my iphone. All city miles mind you. There was a 2mpg improvement with tires and alignment.