Author Topic: Ball Joints and Brakes  (Read 24488 times)

Offline Shawn0331

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2012, 04:39:55 PM »
Update:

Took the knuckle to Les Schwab for them to try and take off the steering control arm. No way I can get that thing to move. Tried PB Blaster & 3lb hammer. Guy at the shop is trying heat.

Taking time to clean stuff up now while I wait.
1987 Chevy V10 Silverado SWB 5.7 on 33x12.5's
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Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2012, 07:41:48 PM »
I freaking hate those cone washers... I brought mine to a shop, too. Had to torch them and beat them with a sledge.

Any reason why you're separating them? The washers and nuts are NOT re-useable. And they're not cheap either... I wish I just left mine together. I can't remember why I separated them anyways... well live and learn.

1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline Shawn0331

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #17 on: February 18, 2012, 08:13:26 PM »
I freaking hate those cone washers... I brought mine to a shop, too. Had to torch them and beat them with a sledge.

Any reason why you're separating them? The washers and nuts are NOT re-useable. And they're not cheap either... I wish I just left mine together. I can't remember why I separated them anyways... well live and learn.

I couldn't figure out how to press the ball joint back in with it on there. Using a rented ball joint press from O'Reilly.

Now I have another problem...

While putting the nut back on the lower ball joint, the nut doesn't seem to be tightening past finger tight. The ball stud turns with the nut. Help???
1987 Chevy V10 Silverado SWB 5.7 on 33x12.5's
http://www.shawnseeley.com

Offline Shawn0331

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #18 on: February 18, 2012, 09:25:44 PM »
Figured it out.
1987 Chevy V10 Silverado SWB 5.7 on 33x12.5's
http://www.shawnseeley.com

Offline frotosride

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #19 on: February 18, 2012, 11:58:46 PM »
I had to take the steering arm off too but i beat it into submission... Do you have the auto locking hubs  :o as well? Or have you already replaced them with manual hubs?
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
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Offline Shawn0331

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #20 on: February 19, 2012, 01:27:28 AM »
It came with manual Warn hubs when I bought it.
1987 Chevy V10 Silverado SWB 5.7 on 33x12.5's
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Offline beastie_3

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2012, 04:37:28 PM »
Rust is what causes the cones to stick. When you put it back together, put some grease in there and hopefully that will help if you ever have to take the arm off again.

Offline bake74

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #22 on: February 22, 2012, 05:40:24 AM »
I had to take the steering arm off too but i beat it into submission... Do you have the auto locking hubs  :o as well? Or have you already replaced them with manual hubs?

      The last one I ran across that was rusted like that and did not want to come apart, I used a air hammer with a flat blade attached and vibrated it, the cones came out pretty easy after a min. or so.
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Offline frotosride

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #23 on: February 24, 2012, 05:33:24 PM »
Rust is what causes the cones to stick. When you put it back together, put some grease in there and hopefully that will help if you ever have to take the arm off again.

This is exactly what I did just incase i ever get an e-locker and do more upgrades in the near future...
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline frotosride

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #24 on: February 24, 2012, 05:36:46 PM »
I had to take the steering arm off too but i beat it into submission... Do you have the auto locking hubs  :o as well? Or have you already replaced them with manual hubs?

     The last one I ran across that was rusted like that and did not want to come apart, I used a air hammer with a flat blade attached and vibrated it, the cones came out pretty easy after a min. or so.

    I thought seriousely about this andIi use my air hammer a lot but i have noticed that when i resort the the BFAH if usually don't care what gets messed up in the process... I love it for ripping up thin metal and pushing out those stupid metal sleeves around the rubber bushings of the leaf springs.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2012, 05:38:32 PM by frotosride »
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline Engineer

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #25 on: March 11, 2012, 08:33:52 AM »
The front end alignment is something you can do yourself.

The only adjustment is toe-in, and centering the steering wheel.

Caster/camber are not adjustable on the 73~87(91) Chevy 4x4s.

If, after installing new ball joints, you think you have caster/camber issues, then you have bent parts.
2002 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1/ZF6sp RC/LB
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0/4L85E EC/SB
1997 Chevy Blazer 4x4
1994 Chevy K-2500 4x4 C6P 5.7/4L80E
1979 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10
1977 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10 454

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Offline jaredts

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #26 on: March 11, 2012, 09:17:28 AM »
No camber?  What are the shims behind the control arms for?

Offline Engineer

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #27 on: March 11, 2012, 06:10:06 PM »
Jared are you talking 2WD?

I believe the OP's truck is 4x4. (V10)
2002 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1/ZF6sp RC/LB
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0/4L85E EC/SB
1997 Chevy Blazer 4x4
1994 Chevy K-2500 4x4 C6P 5.7/4L80E
1979 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10
1977 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10 454

Dad of an Eagle Scout, and a Life Scout

Offline jaredts

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Re: Ball Joints and Brakes
« Reply #28 on: March 11, 2012, 09:56:14 PM »
Sorry, I missed that.