73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Wheels & Tires => Topic started by: Doppleganger on August 15, 2018, 01:25:26 PM
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Picked up a set of new Outlaw's.....was told AR is discontinuing them so the price's are cheap ATM. I noticed that of course the original steel rims are thinner than the alloys. With the steelies, there's a good 1" of stud to use. With the alloys, its about 3/4".
Stupid question of the day: is this enough thread to hold that wheel on good? Every vehicle I ever had either came with an alloy or didn't...and I never switched from one to the other.
Was hoping someone else had run these on their K20 so they could tell me a good lug length and what length of center sleeve to order for the lockouts.
Thanks for any help fellas.
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imo as long as you can see a thread on the stud when the lug is torqued down then thats good even if it sits flush it should be ok but i would like to see at least a thread
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maybe i should clarify that. thats if you are using a reg lug nut thats open. i would have to measure a reg lug nut to see what it is, but you should be able to go to the parts store and buy longer lug nuts if you have to
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The K20 we bought has alloys and there are several threads through the nuts, its been decades ago since I actually did any of my own tire work. To busy for many decades and now that my health forced me into retirement I can only do light duty work before it gets out of hand. But you used to be able to get longer studs, knock the short ones out of the hubs and draw the new ones in. Because my dad and brothers were mechanics we had a lot of presses and pullers. We had a small puller that we took screw draw rod or whatever you want to call it, I start to tell you how to the puller but is so unlikely that you would have for all I know my father made it he did that a lot. I changed a lot of broken one on the race cars, I knocked the old one out then use a socket that's large enough that the stud fits through the socket and deep enough that shank of the stud doesn't come through then but a washer over the stud and tighten down until stud is pulled all the way into the hub.
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Thanks fellas. If I were to use an open lug, I'd have about 1 to 1 1/2 threads sticking out. I'm using 1.75" Mcgard's - think I'll be ok.
There's notations on some rims that a longer stud is needed......nothing on these. They've been around so long I would imagine someone would have said something if it was an issue. I only set the rim on the front and back to check they cleared everything ok. I pushed them back against the hub when I measured but they weren't drawn down tight either.
Thanks again!
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another thing just to make sure they fit safely is if you can fit a reg hex lug nut on there and see how many threads you have showing then once it checks out replace it with the lug that you have now. or even leave one lug off while youre tightening it down and measure how much usable stud you have showing
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Depends on how the rim is made
Some aluminum rims use a special long neck lug nut to reach down inside the rim
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Thought I should reply to this with a (forgotten) update........
(https://i.ibb.co/qBzFB9r/P1020937x.jpg)
They fit real nice. 8)