quick 4" lift question

[mpeche923]

Hi  kind of a new guy around here  but not to trucks.....    my 87 SWB currently sits on a 2.5" lift that needs replacing.    I don't use it as a DD, but i want to put in a 4" lift instead....

I did all the research and i don't have a lot of money to spend so I am probably going to go with the Rough Country lift w/blocks.   I know I should get rear springs...  but $$$ is a bit tight 

My question is this.....  I have seen that for 35 bucks they sell a sway bar drop kit...   I don't see anyone here talk about it...  do you have to get it or is it just a waste of 35 bucks..

thanks in advance

Mike

[JRConnieK10]

Mike, I don't think you need it for a 4" but you do need to change the steering arm.

JR.

[mpeche923]

JR

Thanks for the info.   and Yes the kit I am looking at comes with the new steering arm.   Any tricks to doing this kit at all....   I have complete confidence in myself that I can do it but just wanted to find out if there was anything i should be aware of....

Well besides soaking all the bolts with some penetrating lube like a week before I start 

Hey do you have any large pictures of your truck...  i really like it... love the hight   i think LWB trucks look so much more tough then the SWB   but i took what i could find at the time 

Mike

[VileZambonie]

With the 4" lift you'll need longer shocks, the steering arm, u-bolts, springs, drop the brake lines down, and i usually drop the crossmember an inch. You'll have to adjust your drag link too to get your steering wheel position correct also. This is the tie rod assembly that connects the steering arm to the pitman arm. Soaking everything down with penetrating oil is a good idea. Make sure you take before and after pics. Good luck.

[mpeche923]

Vile,

Thanks for all the additional info....  Yeah the kit comes with the following:

Front leaf springs, steering arm, brake line relocation brackets, u-bolts, polyurethane bushings, 4 RC Hydro 8000 series shocks, and an option of rear 4" blocks or rear leaf springs.

I am going with blocks for a bit of a cost savings...  I have had trucks for years and had no issues with blocks.....   but i know rear springs would be the best choice....

Also talk more to me about this drag link thing...  I know what it is and what it does     but please detail for me why it needs to be longer....    and for a 4" lift i can still use the stock one correct??

Thanks in advance
Mike

[VileZambonie]

The drag link connects the pitman arm to the steeering arm. On these trucks it runs longitudinally which is why people switch over to crossover (runs transverely L to R). The problem arises when the axle is tilted and you are trying to turn. If you aren't doing any serious offroading don't worry about it. As far as it's angle, as long as you aren't going more than 4" you won't need a drop drag link or pitman arm. The steering arm will suffice. The adjustment will not affect your toe setting only your steering wheel position which will be off once you lift it. Provided your total oe setting is correct in the front of the truck you won't even need an alignment just adjust the drag link until the steering wheel is straight when you're rollin down the road.

[mpeche923]

Vile,

Thanks ago for the info  OK i see what your saying now...   but another question.....   I currently have about a 2.5" lift in the truck.....   the tires show NO wear and they about 10,000 miles on them but my steering wheel is off a bit  could it be that when the list was initally put in the drag link was never adjusted???   like i said the truck does not wear tires at all and they are 33  12.50  15  BFG's   

which side of the link gets adjusted... the pitman or the sterring side    or both   

sorry for all the questions but you guys are VERY knowledgable...     I know i can do this install myself  but you always like to know some secrets from the pros as well   hahaha

Mike

[VileZambonie]

All you have to do is loosen the pinch bolts on the drag link sleeve. Rotate it a few turns and test drive it. Keep turning it one way or another until the wheel is dead nuts. Once you're happy just tighten the pinch bolts. It's that easy.

[mpeche923]

Vile,

Thanks for all the awesome input....  This is my first attempt at doing a straight front axle lift...    in my past I have done  a lift on an IFS NISSAN  1989  beleive it or not it ran 35's   no rubbing  4" susp. lift 3" body lift

then i moved up to an  dare i say  F150  had a 4" rancho kit and a 3" body lift  also ran 35's   

So i guess this truck should be the easiest... hahaha   but I am a little bit worried about getting all the old rusted stuff off...

And the drag link seems like an easy thing to do.....    I just got out of the truck....  when traveling straight down the road  instead of having my hand at 12 for it to be straight my hand is at about 11    but like i said no wear of tires  just wheel off 

Thanks again
Mike 

[VileZambonie]

No problem. If you don't have access to a torch setup pick up a MAP torch that will surely help with those frozen bolts, nuts and sleeves.

[dunedigger]

Hi  kind of a new guy around here  but not to trucks.....    my 87 SWB currently sits on a 2.5" lift that needs replacing.    I don't use it as a DD, but i want to put in a 4" lift instead....

I did all the research and i don't have a lot of money to spend so I am probably going to go with the Rough Country lift w/blocks.   I know I should get rear springs...  but $$$ is a bit tight 

My question is this.....  I have seen that for 35 bucks they sell a sway bar drop kit...   I don't see anyone here talk about it...  do you have to get it or is it just a waste of 35 bucks..

thanks in advance

Mike

On that sway bar drop kit, I have one on my truck and in my opinion it is well worht the money.  I tried this lift without it once and just doesn't work right.  My buddy made his own out of solid blocks of steel.  I think they make a big difference in my truck but it is off road a lot and was a bit of a stretch to hook up the sway bar even with them installed.