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Qman
Today at 08:34:43 PM by Qman
Views: 15 | Comments: 0

I just finished putting a nv3500 trans(mg5 code) from, i think a 99 silverado 2wd 4.3 into my 86 c10 longbed with a 350sb the other day and i thought id make this thread for anybody who has the New Process a833 trans and wants something a bit more recent...and a bit more decent to shift. Also not quite the gear gap. I didnt realize how easy it would be until i started this little project. So i will make a list(this is can only confirm for the same year c10 single cab longbed that comes factory with a small block and the a33 transmission.BUT may work similar on other models with the same trans)

What you can reuse:
Same bolt pattern on the bellhousing so no adapter needed
Same flywheel is compatible.
Same clutch disc, even, if you want.
-Driveshaft-i was pleasantly surprised to find out that the GM 833(aka NP440) and this particular nv3500 measure less than a half inch different from both bellhousing-tailshaft and bellhousing to center of yoke u-joint measurements. This meant just switch over the output shaft yoke and i could reuse my three piece shaft.
-Clutch hydro line(mostly)
-i am using the same clutch master cylinder, right or wrong. Not sure if its exactly the correct size diameter but it seems to work fine.
-Poly transmission mount

Parts/modifications needed:
-custom crossmemeber(the nv3500 mount is way back on the tailshaft so its not even close to the stock crossmember.)it is very important when making to new crossmember to make sire that the output of the trans hangs at exactly the same height relative to the frame so that your driveshaft angles dont get too thrown out of whack.
-pressure plate. Its got different style spring fingers for the internal slave style throwout bearing
A hole will need to be cut in the floor since the new shifter is a center-top mount.

I will figure out how to post pictures somewhere tomorrow and post up links
Spool
June 20, 2018, 09:18:18 PM by Spool
Views: 67 | Comments: 2

Hey all.
73' C20 here.

Been a bit crazy this spring with work and school, yet it's finally time to repair my coolant system.

I have:
-a leak near the thermostat.
-a leak from what I'd imagine to be my heater-core; you can see it's wet sometimes if you pull the rug up.
-swollen hoses through-out that are in-need of replacement with some fresh good looking ones.
(It would also be wise to finally purchase a coolant reservoir as well.)

With all of this, I began researching online as to the parts and process as to not just start this thread cold before asking for help.
But I would like to ask what everybody thinks about flushing the system before taking on this job?

This video about flushing your coolant system seems to be straight-forward and informative: https://youtu.be/s--5ft5YiHg
It's a 20 minute video, so here is list of the steps:

0. He pours a Coolant Flush and Cleaner into his system 100miles before he's ready to begin flushing.
1. Releases radiator petcock to drain existing coolant.
2. Removes the thermostat temporarily and reattaches upper radiator hose and petcock.
3. Fills system with distilled water and an additional Coolant Flush and Cleaner.
4. Runs the truck for 10 minutes with the heat on.
5. Allows it to cool and then drains the system again.
(Repeat to clean: observing the color of the water when you pull the petcock.)

My idea is I can do steps 1 thru 5 to clean the system before replacing my thermostat/gasket, hoses and heatercore.

Any pros or cons to this method?
Thanks guys!

(Attached are some pictures of the current condition.)
June 20, 2018, 01:00:52 PM by devildogmech | Views: 76 | Comments: 2

Ok,

79' C-10. 350/350 combo. The motor was burning oil and the valve seals were non-existent. I used the rope trick and the lever tool, and put new umbrella seals on the valves. Put it all back together and it's running real rough. Idles very poorly and wants to die when given any throttle at all.

So, It ran well (except for fouling plugs) before the seals were put in... I'm thinking I might have tightened the rocker arms too much? Maybe they aren't allowing the valves to close all the way?

I used the EOIC method to adjust the valves.
-I started on cylinder #1. I rotated the engine by hand till the #1 exhaust valve started to open.
-I then tightened the Intake valve till the rocker arm stopped having any play in it. I then went 1/4 turn more.
-I rotated the engine until the Intake Valve Opened and just began to close.
- I then tightened the exhaust valve till the rocker arm stopped having any play and then again 1/4 turn more.
- Then moved to Cylinder #3 and just worked my way down the motor.

Did I F' this up?

FYI, I did double check the timing, New plugs, new wires......
June 20, 2018, 11:32:20 AM by Cheyenne1010 | Views: 73 | Comments: 3

What's up guys,I got 1973 chevy C10 long bed.When I'm driving straight the brake pedal is firm and brakes response is quick.when I make a left or right turn and press the brake pedal it'll go to the floor,then I'll pump the brake pedal once and it'll be firm again.a friend told me to get the pedal firm and remove brake master cylinder cover and turn the steering wheel left or right,I turned right and I seen a little brake fluid stream shoot up from reservoir then I pressed on the brake pedal and it went to the floor,samething happend when I turned left.everything that has to do with the brakes have been replaced with new parts and new front brake rotors with new inner and outer bearings.now if I do the samething with the truck Jack up it doesn't do it,I turn left and right then press the brake pedal and it's firm,I put the truck back down,turn the steering wheel pedal goes to the floor.i know there's something pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper but I just don't know what it is.any help is welcomed.have a nice day guys.
Stewart G Griffin
June 20, 2018, 02:33:09 AM by Stewart G Griffin
Views: 120 | Comments: 5

Has anyone privately sold a newer, more expensive (let's say $5000 and above) car?

Not necessarily talking about trade-in, although if you did that please discuss as well.

1) Were you actually able to sell it?

2) How did it go?
Pages: [1]

* Recent Posts

Re: issues with cooling system by Irish_Alley
[Today at 08:58:35 PM]


Re: issues with cooling system by VileZambonie
[Today at 08:47:56 PM]


86 C10 lwb 833 to nv3500 by Qman
[Today at 08:34:43 PM]


Re: issues with cooling system by Irish_Alley
[Today at 08:01:21 PM]


Re: issues with cooling system by VileZambonie
[Today at 07:56:38 PM]

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