Would a reasonable guy do this?

[Combat Veteran]

But then what BD? Do I have the crack welded? Can it possibly leak after three times of redoing the intake manifold? Twice with the original intake and twice now with a new Edelbrock? How incompetent can a shop be with 30 years experience?

[VileZambonie]

Shops don't have experience, but if someone working there had 30 years experience they would know that you do not use end seals. With today's technology it's easier than ever to find those types of leaks. Dye tracer and a UV light or inspection camera should be able to pinpoint it very quickly. I'd get someone more competent to look at it.

[bd]

I concur with Vile.  The point is that a crack in that area of the block is so unusual as to raise suspicions.  Speaking as a professional, I would not be able to assure someone in good conscience that the block is cracked unless I could positively verify it by direct visual inspection (naked eye or fluorescent dye and UV light), liquid dye penetrant inspection (e.g., Zxglo) or magnetic particle inspection (e.g., Magnaflux).  If a crack exists, they should have little trouble pointing directly at it and showing you, so that no doubt remains.

[Combat Veteran]

OK, Lets assume they show it to me, what's my next step, Rub JB weld all over it? Can they actually weld the block? Will it be worth the effort?

[bd]

You are supposing that the block is cracked.  We suspect that it isn't.  If, in fact, it is, they should be able to verify it positively and precisely and point directly to it.

But just for a moment let's say the block isn't cracked and someone could provide a suitable and inexpensive remedy, why replace the engine?  Unless you just like the idea of a new motor and cost isn't hugely important.  There's nothing wrong with that if that's your decision.  To answer your question, if the block is cracked, even though many cracks are repairable, I would start shopping. 

Under the existing circumstances I believe the prudent approach is to determine whether they are providing a correct diagnosis to you, so you can make a completely informed decision that isn't unnecessarily expensive.  And, if it does turn out to be a cracked block, so be it.  I for one would like to see it.  Post a pic.

[Combat Veteran]

BD, Thanks. I checked on another shop, and explained everything that has transpired. He said he would go over and take a look, since the two shop owners are friendly with each other. He said he might have a solution, more to follow on that. I wish I could get a good enough picture of it, since I can't see it myself, my eyes are just not that good and where it is, is just not that accessible. Believe me when I tell you, I really don't want to replace the motor, I love the way the truck drives as is. Unfortunately I brought the truck in for a small leak and now it is practically undriveable due to the amount of oil it leaks. I am afraid the mechanic used an air tool to clean the surfaces on the block & heads and screwed the angles or something to that effect to create this situation. Hopefully the next shop I take it to has a better solution, not sure what that could be, than replacing the motor.

[Jerr-conn]

Cv-- you said the two shops are friends. I don't think they would want to step on each other's toes,
And ruin their friendship. so, If it were me , I would find a 3rd shop. The

[Combat Veteran]

Good news. This morning they called and said no more leak. Everyone on youtube, local shops & here said to throw away the end seals, but in the end that is what stopped the leak, after the 4th time of trying with RTV. Anyway it reminds me of the scene in Day's of Thunder when the crew chief put on "match tires", this guy put on "Match End Seals". Hope it lasts. Thanks for all your input through this very aggravating month.

[bd]

Glad to hear the leak is resolved.

[VileZambonie]

When doing an intake gasket set on and sbc or bbc, the first thing you do is throw away the end seals. Use the Right Stuff® RTV instead. On both ends of the block, take a center punch and make a trail of divots across the surface. This creates peaks and valleys which provide a positive lock on the sealing surface. Run a bead of the RTV across both surfaces and slightly overlapping the intake gaskets. Since it is an adhesive sealant it will also help hold the gaskets in place. You can make alignment dowels if you'd like and lower the intake into position. Use Permatex teflon sealant on the bolts and evenly torque all bolts in sequence in progressive steps. Typically this takes about 5 go arounds to achieve the final torque value. After driving for a few miles, re-torque. Use quality fasteners and follow this method for a leak free end result.

[Combat Veteran]

Vile, They used RTV three times on two manifolds and that did not work. They took the throw away end seals and put them in and what do you know, no more leak. What can I tell you.

[VileZambonie]

Well that tells you that it is in fact a workmanship issue. Did they lay the correct bead and use the correct RTV the first time? End seals will leak again, right from GM:

"Coat front and rear ridges of cylinder case with a 3/16 inch bead of RTV sealant. Extend bead 1/2 inch up each cylinder head to retain side gaskets"

What happened to the crack they told you it had? A seal doesn't fix the crack, so you can see why we have been saying the issue lies with the installer. Nevertheless, we are all happy for you that you no longer have the leak or need to unnecessarily replace your engine.