Emissions control device

[Deathscythe]

I'm still not 100% done figuring out exactly everything I need to do to make sure everything will work when I'm done.
As far as I can tell so far, is I'll basically pull the EGR, get a block off for it, pull the heat riser valve, get a spacer for it, remove the thermostat housing and replace with an older model one without the vacuum ports, pull the air pump and lines, replace the bolt holes with something that matches the thread and pitch of the line bolts.
Once all that is done, I'll run constant vacuum from the intake manifold to the brake booster and transmission, one from the PCV port on the carb to the PCV, one line from the distributor port to the vacuum advance and figure lines for the vacuum reservoir, hvac and charcoal canister. Then cap whatever is still open on the charcoal canister.

Sound about right?

[Henry]

Hi DS:
PCV: just make sure you still keep a vent on the pass side valve cover for the PCV system if you dont run it back to the air cleaner with a hose.

Evap cannister: as time passed, these cans got more sophisticated in their designs in that there was a valve introduced into the can that timed when venting occured. Early cans just had 2 hoses (one from tanks and one to carb or intake) and later cans like I am sure you have had many more hoses and maybe even a electric solenoid. I am sorry but I am unfamiliar how yours works...but I am sure that if you disable it, just make sure the hose from your tanks stays vented to atmosphere. You probably have a vent line from the float bowl of the carb  to the cannister as well and I dont think this line needs to be vented to atmosphere...it can be plugged at carb...I think the Q-jet carb has other vents for the float bowl.

Other than that, the rest of your mods sound ok to me.

Regards,
Henry

[Deathscythe]

I have been reading up on Qjet carbs and associated lines, I will probably be replacing the lines instead of getting rid of them, just for peace of mind.
The spacer for the heat riser is easy to find online but pretty pricey for what it is, I'll probably just pull the old one, pull the guts and just weld any holes shut and put it back in. That'll save me around $60.

[Henry]

Hi DS:
Evap cannister: I misspoke about how the can functions...there is a timed "purge" and not a timed "venting" (purge is usually at a certain engine temp). The can always allows fuel tank venting. Yeah, it is conservative to leave it in there for now...it doesnt hurt anything, even when it does not function right. The evap cans do not rob performance or hurt fuel economy. They have a replaceable filter in the bottom and other than that there is little to go wrong except for the hoses degrading.
Regards,
Henry

[DnSherrill]

sounds like we're at similar places Deathscythe; I'm attempting to resolve oil leaks, going to a Z28 aluminum IM, and cleaning up needless emissions hoses.
here's my diagram from under the hood- 1986 C10 305ci.
My ESC has not caused problems in the past, so I'm leaving it for now as well as my original distributor (5 pin ignition module) previously there was no vac assistance connected to the distributor, but I plan to connect that. 

[DnSherrill]

The spacer for the heat riser is easy to find online but pretty pricey for what it is, I'll probably just pull the old one, pull the guts and just weld any holes shut and put it back in. That'll save me around $60.

why does the heat riser need to be altered?

thx

[Deathscythe]

The spacer for the heat riser is easy to find online but pretty pricey for what it is, I'll probably just pull the old one, pull the guts and just weld any holes shut and put it back in. That'll save me around $60.

why does the heat riser need to be altered?

thx

The heat riser diaphragm is controlled by vacuum switches and lines that have been removed. In order to keep it from being in the closed position I removed the diaphragm and wired it to the open position.
In an effort to simplify everything and remove any potential problem in the future I will be removing the valve completely. Instead if buying a spacer, I will just take the valve out and weld the hole shut where the shaft goes into the valve and will reinstall it.