Author Topic: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.  (Read 32114 times)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #15 on: January 22, 2018, 09:15:56 PM »
Thanks BD.
What is my meter positive probe and the I+ wire?

As per the photos of inside the cap of my distributor Which one is considered inside?
I was confused while talking to my neighbor as to what is considered the cap as well.
He described it as the whole top part that comes off when removing the 4 screws that keep it in place; is this correct?

Are either of the photos I attached a proper photo showing the inside of my distributor cap or should I be looking elsewhere?

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #16 on: January 22, 2018, 10:09:15 PM »
The positive probe is the red meter lead.

I+ is Ignition Positive (or 12 volts, only when the ignition is switched on)

The top image shows the coil with its plastic dust cover removed.

In the lower image, you removed the distributor cap to snap a picture of the rotor.  Now, flip the distributor cap upside down and take a clear closeup pic of the underside of the cap.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #17 on: January 23, 2018, 04:01:32 PM »
Thanks BD.

I attached photos with notes this time around.

In short it seems like my power feed cable is garbage and should be replaced with a new 12gauge wire straight from ckt 3 in the bulkhead connector to the
distributor as you mentioned in one of our previous conversations. What do you think?

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #18 on: January 23, 2018, 04:06:17 PM »
(Please forgive the horrible grammar in my photoshop notes)

Also, I forgot to add a picture of the inside of my distributor cap.
It looks fairly clean, but I noticed there are markings on each metal contact after years of use.

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #19 on: January 23, 2018, 05:02:35 PM »


^^^^ There is the cause of the no spark condition.  Run a temporary jumper lead from battery positive to the BAT terminal in the distributor cap.  Chances are it will start, or at least produce a secondary spark.  After the engine starts, you will need to disconnect the temporary jumper to kill the engine.




^^^^ The light gray ash deposits on the spark plug wire terminals protruding inside the cap are normal and no cause for concern.  However, it appears the carbon button in the center of the cap is eroded away.  That carbon button is the contactor brush that transfers voltage to the rotor.  Before you're done with the repair you should replace the distributor cap and rotor...




^^^^ The white oxide that is coating the spark plug wire tower of the distributor cap is a result of ozone erosion due to minor arcing between the aluminum terminal of the tower and the wire.  Replace the spark plug wires too with a good quality set.  Smear a film of dielectric compound on the terminals before snapping the new wires down onto the towers.  You should smear a sparing amount inside of the spark plug boots as well to ease future removal of the wires.  Otherwise, the boots can stubbornly adhere to the porcelain of the plugs.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #20 on: January 23, 2018, 05:46:03 PM »
Thank you!

So the problem with it receiving power is the power feed.
I don't have an appropriate jumper lead at the moment, what if I were to cut out the wire and replace ckt 3 straight to the distributor with a new 12guage wire?

Do you think this would allow me to start the engine?

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #21 on: January 23, 2018, 07:04:10 PM »


Remember this ^^^^ ?  Follow the red ignition feed all the way back to the firewall bulkhead connector and probe the wire there.  Will the test light illuminate?  If it does then replace the complete wire between the distributor and bulkhead using 12-gauge stranded copper wire with SXL, GXL or GPT insulation (pink preferred, red will work).
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #22 on: January 23, 2018, 08:09:30 PM »
Perfect. I did exactly that.
Back then I took the split apart as the yellow wire splitting off no longer had a connection at the starter.

I was able to start the truck just now by cutting out the two poor connections and adding a temporary connection between the 12gauge wire from the distributor and the resistor wire coming from ckt 3 at the bulkhead.

Now that we know what the problem is and having it temporarily resolved, I'll replace what you mentioned.

First, I need to clean my bulk head connector to be able to remove the connection without damaging anything.
It's currently full of dirt and grime as the previous photo shows.
I picked up a can of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner for this.

I'll certainly pick up new new cables, a distributor cap and rotor.

Starting with the distributor cap, is there anything to look out for to ensure I buy the same one that fits? A model number of sorts?
« Last Edit: January 23, 2018, 08:12:36 PM by Spool »

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #23 on: January 24, 2018, 04:09:13 PM »
ACDelco D336X distributor cap and D448X rotor, or equivalent.  Don't skimp on the spark plug wires either.  A good set will provide longlasting service and not separate from the metal terminal ends during subsequent removal.

Make sure you pay attention to the order that parts are removed when swapping the old ignition coil to the new cap.  The distributor cap will come with a new carbon button and silicone gasket.  The order of assembly is to insert the new carbon button into the center hole of the cap from above, then the gasket, then the coil.  Don't neglect to transfer the coil ground strap into the new cap.

QD probably won't remove the dry, dark brown antioxidant caked into the bulkhead connector.  You will need some carburetor cleaner or engine starting fluid for that purpose.  Be sure to repack the terminal cavity with antioxidant paste during reassembly to reject the intrusion of moisture and dust.  Solder the terminals to the wire ends after you crimp them to minimize gradual oxidation and ensure consistent electrical connections.  The primary lead feeding the distributor should be dedicated solely to that purpose and not be used to power any other appliance.  Use the proper plastic connector that will engage and lock into the distributor cap so that it doesn't shake or pull loose while driving.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #24 on: January 24, 2018, 04:32:11 PM »
Thank you, BD.

Out of my own curiosity, do you happen to know what Delco Remy is?
Is it a side-brand of sorts of ACDelco?

What are you thoughts on this?
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pro-66945bkc/overview/

It's a $50 price difference, but do you think it would be a good investment to replace a few other parts (wires/vacuum) on the distributor cap while I'm at at?

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #25 on: January 24, 2018, 05:19:02 PM »
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ACDelco

http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/history.htm

http://www.delcoremy.com/

As to the link you posted for the Proform kit at Summit Racing, I do not recommend that route for you.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #26 on: January 24, 2018, 05:54:45 PM »
Thanks BD.
I should have researched that on my own before asking, but I do appreciate the links; I'll read them this evening.

As always, thank you again for everything.

(I may have a few questions about the bulk head connector soon. Out of respect to the forum, would you prefer that in a new topic thread?)

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #27 on: January 24, 2018, 07:32:52 PM »
As long as the topic is related to this "no start/no spark" issue, continue it here.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Spool

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #28 on: January 24, 2018, 08:16:55 PM »
I didn't expect Amazon to have such items available, but they offer the cap and rotor with delivery tomorrow which is excellent.

In regards to cables, would this suffice or rather, are they a good choice?
I would prefer quality that doesn't break the bank. What would you recommend?
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-618W-Original-Equipment-Spark/dp/B000BYD3EK/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=C20%20Pickup%7C1999&Year=1973%7C1973&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Offline bd

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Re: Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.
« Reply #29 on: January 24, 2018, 09:29:05 PM »
The 618W is manufactured for Corvettes.

Do the exhaust manifolds route above or below the spark plugs?  Does your engine use an individual heat shield wrapping around each spark plug or an open tin roof heat shield for each pair of plugs?  Both factors will have an impact on which plug wires the engine can use.  Post a pic showing one side of the engine and how the existing plug wires are routed.  ACDelco 9608N, I believe routes over the top of the valve covers in applications for which the exhaust manifolds route below the spark plugs.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)