Author Topic: Floor board fix  (Read 2449 times)

Offline MY1978

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Floor board fix
« on: August 25, 2018, 07:22:54 AM »
Hello, new here and in need of some help.  My beloved 1978 Chevy (which i have owned since the day it was born) had a heater core leak - unknown to me until we started the restoration of the interior.  When the carpet was pulled, thanks to the padding underneath that soaked up the water/coolant mix, the floor board on the passenger side is rusted but still solid.  I would like suggestions on restoring this.  I plan on using a wire brush on a drill, and hand wire brush, to get the loose rust off and then use a rust remover.  I would like suggestions on where to go from there - convertors and/or encapsulators.  I have not won the lottery (otherwise would just ship it to a restoration shop) and doing this myself a little as a time and obviously want to get this completed before installing the new heater core.  I know that taking to a body shop is the best way to go, but trying to find a shop in my area that wants to do restoration work versus collision work is an issue. 

Please help. 

Thanks






Online Rapid Roy

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2018, 07:55:48 AM »
Welcome.
1974 Cheyenne 10 LWB STOCK 350 W HEI /TH350/AC/4 BBL Quadrajet
Mopar by Birth
Chevy by Choice

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2018, 11:49:16 AM »
Just use a brush on rust converter and then paint it.
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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline Henry

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2018, 11:57:00 AM »
Hi My1978:
Since it appears your truck is a carpeted model, the color of the floorboard and firewall repairs are probably not important to you since you will not see the repairs, so your final paint color is not an issue. I would suggest you use the Eastwood rust converter and encapsulation products after you have cleaned as much rust off the surfaces as you can. I think I saw a rust hole or two on your firewall so you would need to fill these with body putty as well. You need to makes sure you get all that seam sealer off where rust comes up to it because the rust is probably under the seam sealer as well. If the final color of black is ok with you, the Eastwood guys sell a chassis black as a final topcoat on their encapsulation product. I would check the condition of the outside of the floorboard as well...treat it if rusted as well. If your truck is a C-20/30, you probably have the "double wall" floorboard and it will be hard to get to the top floorboard surface to treat it from the outside. If you keep the heater/windshield/firewall from leaking water, this repair should last for another 5-10 years depending on your climate.
Regards,
Henry

Offline Henry

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2018, 12:00:32 PM »
Hi My1978:
BTW....nice looking truck!...I like the paint color scheme.
Regards,
Henry

Offline MY1978

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2018, 06:09:07 PM »
Hello Henry -

Thank you so much for your reply and I appreciate your passing along information.  Since writing the post, I have worked on the rust on the floor board with a drill outfitted with a stripper wheel.  Some areas are down to bare metal but for the most part it looks better than it did.  My heart sunk when I saw all that rust and actually wondered if it was going to be worth it to continue.  Up under the dash at the firewall area, I was not able to use the the wheel.  My fiance is going to media blast it and then we are going to use fiberglass resin and mat to seal up the bad spots.  YEP!!!  I'm a female  :o  and this is my project and he is helping me where necessary. 

I really do appreciate your suggestion about Eastwood.  I actually have ordered the internal frame coating to get behind the fire wall to hopefully encapsulate any rust there and since I have, and will have, some bare metal showing will be using the black rust encapsulator.  And yes, you are right who cares about the color when it is up under the dash and covered by carpet.  I have a shed full of   boxes with cab interior restoration parts just waiting to be installed and I CAN'T WAIT!!!  But, unfortunately, I have to get past this rust issue, get padding and carpet back in place and seats reinstalled.  Also need to pull the dash and check the speaker and get a new radio.   ::) 

I have been using   a lot for parts.  I check prices between   and Classic Industries and order from there.  If you have any other companies that you would suggest, I would be interested in knowing about them.

Anyway, thanks again for the informative response and compliment on my truck.  That is the original color scheme and the white wagon wheels are original also.  It was custom built in 1978 with Blazer buckets and console and sports a 4-bolt 350/V-8, 4-barrel Rochester (original - rebuilt) and a 4-11 rear end w/limited slip.  She has been a good one, and I have let her down  :( .  So here is my chance to make it up to her.

Thanks again.


Offline Henry

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2018, 11:26:34 AM »
Hi MY1978:
Well, the good thing is that there seems to be more restoration parts available for these 1970s trucks now than there was in the 1990s and early 2000s. My go to parts suppliers for unique parts are:
Classic Industries
Brothers
Golden State Parts
Cheyenne Pick-Up Parts
YearOne
The Paddock
Classic Parts
Phillips Muscle Car Parts(NOS and used parts)
Eckler's Camaro(sometimes they have oddball parts that were also used on trucks)
-there are others...just google and sift through the pages.
Good Luck,
Henry

Offline bd

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Re: Floor board fix
« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2018, 07:00:29 PM »
That's quite a list, Henry.  However, the ONLY one that supports this site and forum is the 73-87ChevyTrucks.com store.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2018, 07:03:03 PM by bd »
Rich
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In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)