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BD,is the air handler where you located your relays too, like Frotoside? Finding space under the dash for mounting the relays is a real problem in my truck.On edit, I think I'll put my relays on the L/H side under the hood opener cable.(Excuse the rusty panel-I have just removed all of my interior trim for a re-color job).
This is what I purchased. Exactly what was pictured in the previous posthttp://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=27076.0;attach=24185;image
Quote from: jpatters13 on April 11, 2014, 07:50:42 PMI am in the middle of implementing this wiring configuration. I have only one question. Am I reading the diagram correct that terminals 87A and 85 on all four relays are grounded?Correct. But, there is a caveat: Are the relays you're using surge clamped with a diode internally connected between terminals 85 and 86?
I am in the middle of implementing this wiring configuration. I have only one question. Am I reading the diagram correct that terminals 87A and 85 on all four relays are grounded?
The most straightforward modification would be to leave all of the factory wiring as is and just reroute the motor wires from the switches to the control terminals of the relays. Then the relays would power the motors via a single, dedicated 30-amp breaker and 10-gauge wire pairs. That would entail stuffing four additional wires through each doorjamb conduit to/from the relays mounted under the dash - two near each door. Thoughts?
Quote from: bd on February 21, 2016, 11:24:54 PMThe most straightforward modification would be to leave all of the factory wiring as is and just reroute the motor wires from the switches to the control terminals of the relays. Then the relays would power the motors via a single, dedicated 30-amp breaker and 10-gauge wire pairs. That would entail stuffing four additional wires through each doorjamb conduit to/from the relays mounted under the dash - two near each door. Thoughts?I don't see why that wouldn't work. Sounds like the smartest and easiest thing to do.
This is exactly what I did since the passenger switch received power from the drivers switch. The only issue is that there has to be a diode in both passenger relays but only on the wires coming from the driver's side switch. Otherwise there will be feed back and blow the fuse.
I'll wait untill a clear and correct redesign is presented, when that is available, I will do the window relay upgrade for my truck according to the new diagram. Until then, the stock setup is still working just fine.