bed wood project

[gwcrim]

I just started on my bed wood replacement project.  The bed is sitting on jack stands and the wood is all removed.  I've started this thread for questions I may have, beginning with:

All of the bed strips will be replaced with SS pieces, including the angle strips.  I'll be bolting the angles to the bed sides, not welding.  I've got many implements of destruction.  What have you all used to grind out the welds on the original angles? 

Any pointers and suggestions are welcome.

[roundhouse]

If it’s the little spot welds
You can buy drill bits made for drilling out spot welds

I left the angles so I’m not much help there
I wanted a wood that holds up outdoors  so We used cedar

And ran it thru a table saw to cut the grooves where the trim strips go

Oak looks nice when stained and cleared but the clear coat will come off if you park your truck outside

[roundhouse]

The new wood being put to good use

[gwcrim]

I'm not much of a woodworker so I bought pre-cut white oak boards.  I'm all about low maintenance so my plan is to treat it with used motor oil.  The wood that was in there was what my dad put in about 25 years ago.  He wasn't much of a woodworker either.  It was pine, I believe.  Knowing him, he treated it with linseed oil.

[roundhouse]

I'm not much of a woodworker so I bought pre-cut white oak boards.  I'm all about low maintenance so my plan is to treat it with used motor oil.  The wood that was in there was what my dad put in about 25 years ago.  He wasn't much of a woodworker either.  It was pine, I believe.  Knowing him, he treated it with linseed oil.

Most of ours is treated with deer blood , and motor oil and 90 weight that has leaked from engines, transmissions and axles that have been hauled in the bed

[gwcrim]

So the spot weld drill bit was the hot ticket.  Thanks to roundhouse for the tip.

I'm now prepping the bed sides (under the angle) and they're quite rusty.  Solid, but very rusty.  I'm thinking wire wheel and then Rustoleum.  Maybe scuff them up to bare, shiny metal first?  Would there be something better than Rustoleum?

Today I dabbed a little used oil on the white oak.  It didn't really change the color at all.  I may consider some dark stain, but maybe not.....

[roundhouse]

Be careful with the wire wheel

Wear glasses AND a full face shield

Those wires WILL come off

[gwcrim]

If I recall, I've read that you can mount the bed to the frame without using the 1/2 carriage bolts through the wood floor.  You just bolt the cross sills directly to the frame.

Anyone have experience with that?

[JohnnyPopper]

About the rust: is it heavy flaking type? Or more surface?

I recently learned of a acid based formula that is a 'metal pre clean' that dissolves rust and other gunk.

Flitz Metal Pre Clean. Grangier has it along with others.

I cannot believe the elbow grease this could have saved me for YEARS!!!

I applied it to a really rusty bumper with green sludge. A few moments and some agitation with a brush and she was SHINY. 

[gwcrim]

The rust is pretty deeply pitted in places.  Nothing has eaten through, thankfully.  I have a 3M rust stripper disc that I've tested and it's done a great job.  It can't get the rust down in the pits though.  I'll look at the Flitz.  Thanks.

[roundhouse]

If I recall, I've read that you can mount the bed to the frame without using the 1/2 carriage bolts through the wood floor.  You just bolt the cross sills directly to the frame.

Anyone have experience with that?

I put the carriage bolts under the wood

I hollowed out the wood a little bit with a Dremel and tack welded the carriage bolts to the sills

It makes it harder to remove the bed later since you have to raise it up before you can slide it back

[gwcrim]

Next situation:  The lip at the front of the bed on which the wood rests is not in great condition.  It's there, pretty solid but the holes are deformed and/or broken.  I have a piece of 20 gauge steel, 1 inch wide that I'd like to use to reinforce the lip.  The plan is to cut it to the width of the bed and drill holes to match the lip.  I don't want to weld anything.

Should I put the steel on top of the lip or underneath?

[JohnnyPopper]

On top will change the elevation higher. Probably not noticeably.

Under will just serve to support existing lip, which won't hurt to do.

[gwcrim]

20 gauge is only 0.03, so it would probably not harm if it was on top, especially because I'm doing the angle strips on the bed sides as well.  I have this thought in my mind that on top would provide better support over all.  I dunno.....

The angle strips are another issue.  As they'll be bolted on, I'm not sure how to determine their height.  Just rest them on top of the wood and drill holes?

[JohnnyPopper]

You mean the side angle strips?

I've seen guys drill them out and reinstall, but don't know why that would be necessary.

I'll have my own trial by fire when replace mine, but it looks like take those slats out last and install them first.

Won't they slide in sideways? Maybe I need to look at my short bed again...