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« Last post by Chanman09 on Today at 07:49:50 AM »
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=37007.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23517.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9072.0
Thank you, Vile. I searched using the searchbar and did not see these. Maybe I mispelled or something. Based on reading your links, I should just see if changing the switch fixes my issue. Would you recommend the same if the truck had sat for many years in the woods? Or go ahead and replace the valve as well? Here's my new gameplan. My driver side tank is new. The passenger side not new, but It's been empty so no bad fuel. I will try to borrow a scope or buy one to look inside and see what it looks like in the passenger gas tank. I will disconnect fuel line into the carb and blow back air. I should get bubbles/sound in the driver side currently. Then, I'll switch and see if the air goes to the other side. That should test my valve out. I'm thinking out loud here, so if anybody has a better way, please let me know. I love this forum. Thanks
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on November 05, 2024, 06:08:09 PM »
I had a C20 the PO had beefed up to one ton rating, pulled a race car. I pulled a 28' toy house loaded, twin axle. No issues. Forget what the pin weight was.
If you're worried about being over the weight ratings you could do a couple of thing: Overload springs, electric brake control of the trailer (assuming it has that feature). Make sure your tires are rated for such a load.
I wouldn't sweat it, beef it up and go have fun!
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« Last post by VileZambonie on November 05, 2024, 04:53:34 PM »
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« Last post by RHWHYNOT on November 05, 2024, 01:41:56 PM »
Does anyone have any words of wisdom about this. I have a 1983, the wood bed weighs nothing. Previous owner put a 350 crate engine in the truck, I added small chamber aluminum heads, and changed the intake, carb, ignition, elec fuel pump and cooling fans, plus headers. My engine makes good power against a 400 trans. I rebuilt the entire rear end with a 4.10 posi, it pulls hard. I am interested in towing 14-15K, with about a 2,650 lb pin weight. Triple axle RV trailer 37' long. Everything about my brakes are new except for the power booster. I am not looking to go cross country but may travel a few hundred miles and then set camp again for a few months. I have confidence in the truck and have read how far some other people have pushed the weight limits of their C30s. This is a long trailer but well balanced, I don't have the hitch for this on the truck yet, so I have not been able to test the safety aspects with this configuration. I think it will be a cool picture to see this old truck hooked up like this. I was hoping a few people have done this and share any pros and cons.
Thanks
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« Last post by Chanman09 on November 05, 2024, 01:12:17 PM »
I have a 1986 C20 Silverado. I have pulled the bed off and am getting the frame cleaned up a little more, taking care of some wiring issues, and will put a new fuel selector valve to replace the original one that does not work.
I started looking online at the usual places, auto parts stores, ebay, etc.
There looks to be 2 choices for the 6 port selector valve.
There is a 'universal' valve for around 50-80 dollars, and there is a AC/delco for 120-200 dollars.
They look the same online, they seem to have the same electrical female input.
I don't want to rewire anything. I want to plug it in and go.
what is y'alls experience? Any advice to follow?
Thank you all!
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« Last post by bd on November 05, 2024, 12:55:09 PM »
First, see... 86 K10 lighting issuesIf you still have a problem... The '85 front side marker lamps do 'blink' with the turn/hazard lights, as do the '91 front side markers. The light and dark blue wires of the front side marker lamps should connect to the light and dark blue wires of the left & right front turn signal lamp circuits, respectively. The brown wires of the front side marker lamps should connect to the brown wires of the front park lamps circuit. The front side markers DO NOT ground directly to body sheet metal. Rather, they ground through the filaments of their "paired" left and right front park/turn lamps, respectively. Check to see if the side marker lamps were grounded directly to the fender or radiator support sheet metal and correct the wiring, accordingly. FYI - Filament type bulbs are indifferent to the direction (polarity) of the current flowing through their filaments. They illuminate similarly whether the filament is connected +- or -+. If the front side markers are populated with polarized LED bulbs (current flows in only one direction), the lamps will not function correctly because current flow through the side marker filaments reverses polarity depending on the logic state of the connected wiring. In other words, switched battery power supplies either or both leads of each side marker lamp depending on whether the running lamps and/or turn/hazard lamps are energized. The blue or brown side marker lamp lead NOT connected to a powered circuit finds ground through the unpowered park or turn filament of its 'paired' lamp. The reason this works without imparting a glow to the 'paired' lamp is because the electrical resistance of a 194 side marker lamp filament is much greater (the current threshold is much lower) than the resistance (current threshold) of its paired 1157 park/turn lamp filaments. That is to say, the current needed to illuminate a 194 filament is negligible compared to the current needed to illuminate the 1157 filaments. So the 194 bulb can ground through the filaments of the 1157 bulb without illuminating the 1157 bulb. Did this make sense or did I leave you confused?
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« Last post by recoil on November 04, 2024, 04:45:57 PM »
I'm 90% sure my 85 would blink the side marker lights when I was signalling a turn. After a front end conversion to a 91, they don't blink anymore. Could anyone point me in the right direction for wiring? The shop is too far away so I'd rather attempt to correct it myself.
Thanks, Steve
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on November 04, 2024, 02:51:48 PM »
Nice work! Congrats for sticking with it.
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on November 04, 2024, 02:47:47 PM »
I'll bet the vibration goes away when it's fitted correctly
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« Last post by bd on November 04, 2024, 09:27:38 AM »
If the u-joint is correct, it shouldn't be too tall....Either you received the incorrect joint, or you have a needle bearing laying down in the cap.
This ^^^^^.
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