Hello all -
Newbie here. Both to builds and to the site.
I run a '76 K20 with a 6" Superlift kit and some simple dress-up components right now - valve covers, intake filter, new lighting here and there, etc. It is the Factory 400 SBC with TH400 Trans, 14-bolt rear, 35s, I'm sure you know all the rest. What was a classic Indiana farm truck is now just a big trail rig for me, but being a first project I've got a LOT to learn. The Superlift kit will eventually be replaced with a 4-link and some coil overs, so I am just trying to get the underside of the rig as clean/ready as possible for when I can do that.
(Yes those are false bead locks which will change at some point. It was a quicker lead time than w/o the false bead locks, funnily enough).
It is still the factory, tired ole' 400 SBC with 146k miles on it. She'll be rebuilt sometime soon, as long as everything goes to plan. Right now it is just open headers - will be interesting for the Woodward Dream Cruise. For the exhaust, nothing is concrete other than the tubing being 2.5". I'm thinking just true duals (mufflers TBD...ideas?) to make it drivable at 6 AM for work, but I do plan on putting an x-pipe in the mix before the engine is rebuilt.
The thought was to try and keep the exhaust in between the frame rails, on either side of the transmission as much as I possibly can. The issue I am running into is the factory shift linkage is right in the way of this, and after looking at some much needed conversion kits I wasn't quite sure what would be the best course of action (It got stuck in drive the other day 😶 pulled up this thing immediately:
https://www. competitor.com/1973-87-chevy-gmc/cc-1973-86-transmission-shift-linkage-kit)
1. Do I keep on the current path of hiding the exhaust up in the truck, or just route it below the frame all the way back like factory? It is a good 6-8" in clearance, but I cannot find a Stainless 2.5" Header back kit for a 76 K20 anywhere (Which is where I got the idea to hide the exhaust up in the frame in the first place. Doing it custom? make it full custom). I could very well be looking in the wrong places, but it also sounds a little more fun to do the exhaust myself.
2. I plan on doing some sort of finish on the exhaust, not sure if I go with Cerakote or what just yet. Would it be good to do some extra shielding around the Transmission, which would also protect brake/fuel lines secured within in the Frame?
Many of the people I've talked to are just like "you do you". I don't have the build knowledge for that just yet. I certainly don't mind spending a full day working on one part of the vehicle, only because I prefer the performance of something tinkered with and done right than the patchwork needed 1 or 2 years down the road. I just don't have the knowledge of heat dissipation, air flow, etc. - especially with the 400. I'm not even sure how much the rebuild would affect all this. I'm sure the trail damage will give me a lot of new build info & improvements.
Images attached here, let me know if you have any questions. Tips and tricks for absolutely anything with these rigs is very thoroughly appreciated.
Sorry, that is a lot of words. Enjoy the weekend.
- 76ChvK20
1976 Chevrolet K20, Bonanza Edition - "Fireball"
400 SBC, TH400, 14-Bolt Rear, factory full-time 4x4.