received my patch panels...Have some questions.

[mrh70]

I received my floor patchs, inner rockers, outer rockers and foot well patchs. I've read the other post about patches and some questions were answered but I still have a few.

The first pic shows the inner rocker and floor patch panel. At first I though the floor section overlapped the inner rocker but now I think the floor section has the inner rocker built in?? If so, would it be best to weld the floor section w/the inner rocker  in first then cut the full inner rocker to butt weld to the inner rock of the floor section?

Also area where the inner rocker and foot well meets the cab floor support brace was rusted really bad so I am having trouble figuring how they over lap. does the inner rocker weld to the cab support brace then the foot well section goes on over the inner rocker?

I think I have the order planned correctly but please correct if I wrong.

1. hang door and check gaps (jack up A piller if needed and pull cab corner toward the front of the truck if needed)
2. finish cutting out floor area and foot well
3. tack floor panel
4. tack foot well
5. tack inner rocker
6. tack outer rocker while adjusting for gap and alignment with bottom of door
7. if everything lines up, remove outer rocker and weld other panels in place
8. align outer rocker up again and burn in.

Thanks

[frogman68]

I will let the experts answer most of it but the one thing you skipped that jumps out at me is you need to screw everything together first (self tapping screws) than check gaps . When welding (again no expert) do little stretches than check gaps (to be sure nothing moved and it gives time for the metal to cool to prevent warping)

[jaredts]

The floor and inner rockers I used were not like yours, but you do have part of the inner rocker on your floor panel.  The inner rocker goes against the floor support sandwiched between the support and footwell.  I screwed my footwell in and then slid the inner rocker between the two while I was marking/fitting/cutting.  As to your planned steps, I think you've got a few mistakes:
1)  jack up/support the pillar now--don't start fitting parts with that sagging.
2)  Don't tack any of the parts in while fitting.  Screw them in and move them around until you're satisfied with all parts--then weld them in.
3)  I don't think you'll pull the cab corner toward the front.  If anything you'll have to spread the door opening near the bottom.  I can't tell you whether to use the floor's inner rocker piece or cut that off and just use all of the replacement inner rocker panel, but obviously one needs cut off.  I would go with the panel that fits behind the floor support and matches up best in that area.  I had different style panels than you do, but my replacement inner rocker was too short to reach all the way across the floor support and I had to butt weld an extension to it.  Your style floor would have taken care of that for me.  You don't mention replacing the cab floor support.  Surely yours isn't still good is it?

[Blazin]

Correct on self tapping screws for every thing. I would trim the inner rocker part off the floor pan since you have it allready with the inner rocker. You will want to drill holes for your plug welds before you screw them together, but after you have them fitting well and know where abouts to put the holes.

[mrh70]

thanks guys. I've started screwing everything together first. definitely much of trial and error here. I've restored chevelles in the past but never got into the amount of metal work I'm dealing with the old 82 Chevy. one issue I'm trying to fix also is a poor door gap on passenger side. It was bad before I started cutting out rust and looks like it came from the factory that way. I have good 3/16 to 1/4 inch gaps from the fender side of the door across the top and down to the body line where it opens up to 5/16 just below the body line down to 7/16 at the rocker.

Jaredts- believe it not the cab floor support is in excellent shape with just minor surface rust on the top flange where the floor welded to it. when I first saw them I thought they were galvanized because they held up so well. I'm not sure if it makes a difference but my truck floor rusted from the inside out meaning the truck sit up for about 5 yrs with one window half way down due it coming off the tracks and the truck had a rubber floor mat. so easy for water to get in and soak up in the jute backing but hard to evaporate due to the rubber mat.

[Blazin]

I have had to use body clamps and a pull ram to close a door gap up in the past. I have had them 3/4" wider than the other side.