Is it a factory style tachometer mounted in the instrument cluster or an aftermarket standalone model? Does the tach signal wire have an inline filter installed? Tach heads require three electrical connections to function: 1) 12-volt ignition, 2) ground, and 3) tach signal. Standalone tachs may have a backlight connection to the dash illumination circuit, in addition.
Symptoms suggest that one or more of the tach head electrical connections is/are open. It isn't totally clear from your description whether the only difference between the tach 'not working' and 'working' was disconnecting the existing tach signal wire from the TACH plugin on the side of the distributor cap and then reconnecting it by jumping directly to the yellow coil negative such that you simply bypassed the factory style connector OR if you temporarily relocated the entire tach head under the hood during your test, establishing direct connections using completely different wires. Clarification of the details will provide better insight for assistance.