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the brake light should illuminate when you first turn the key "on" or if you ground out the wire that connects to the P valve
Which mc are you running? Going back through this thread like 6 times. 'againmobile' . You said you changed the mc. If the mc bore is too small, you'll get a soft pedal and grabby brakes. (you say it locks up sometime) If the mc bore is too big, you'll get a hard pedal and less caliper pressure.
Have you verified that the rear shoes are properly sized to the drums?
Hi Ronno6:Another basic to check:1. Recheck to make sure you did not install the combo valve backwards...on my truck it is possible to install it backwards...if this is possible on yours, the manufacturer should have made some "in" and "out" indications on the ports.What is the status of your vacuum power brake unit?... has it been replaced or is it still the original one before the problems started? For my old truck, there were at least 4 different vacuum units available and I am wondering if maybe there is an incompatibility of your vacuum unit and the new master cylinder...or maybe the master cylinder push rod that goes between the two is not adjusted correctly, if it is adjustable. Some have an adjustable crown nut at the end of the rod. There are other things that can go wrong with the internal valving and seals of the vacuum unit to cause either hard pedal or soft pedal feel.Regards,Henry
curious but did you do any work to the brake shoes? have you verified everything is installed right and the primary shoes (front) is actually the smaller shoe?
Brakes are hard as rocks without vacuum boost, but, when engine is running, the pedal goes way down, far past the stopping point when engine is off.
I just cannot understand why I cannot get my rear brakes to quit locking up under normal braking loads.