73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: frotosride on February 24, 2015, 07:37:15 PM
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Just picked up a new remote control for the old man in the driveway. This thread will be dedicated to placing an 2003 LQ4 in a 1987 V10 Silverado. I will be picking the engine up on Thursday and will do all I can to document every step, bad idea and 'dam it' moments.
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The newest update. LQ4 from 03 Yukon Denali. From what I understand it has a different tune over factory truck style LQ4's which gives it 25 more HP. We will see. I fully intend on using both saddle tanks and the 700-R4. I will fabricate an bracket and lever for the TV Cable and pray I get it right. First on the list is stripping the harness and making her run. This engine only has 10400 miles so its still a baby! Not sure how far I'm going to go with the rebuild yet but everything will be posted.
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Nice. Yukon Denali's are an all wheel drive SUV with a 6.0L V8. If I were you I would get the transmission to match it. You will have an overall better experience with the matching transmission. Also the computer talks with the transmission also so if you dont use the matching trans, you will have to elinamte those parts in the computer.
If you do use the matching transmission, you will need to make some adjustments for it to fit and make some changes to the drive shaft and some other things.
Overall I think you would be very happy and impressed if you used as much of the factory stuff as you can from the yukon, engine, trans, cooling components, wiring harnesses.
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Looks like spaghetti tonight.. Getting started on the wiring. Before I took the harness off the engine I labeled everything with a liable maker. I have to start pulling pins and making up my mind about the drive by wire..hmmm to drive by wire or not. If it wasn't for the TV cable it would be a no brainer! I'm not scared of the DBW just of burning up the tranny.
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Use the DBW, in the end you will be much happier, besides the vehicle was designed to use an electronic throttle pedal.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_205956_zpsjs4tzuty.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_205956_zpsjs4tzuty.jpg.html)
Starting with the firewall plug to the in cab fuse block. Label each wire by its number and letter designator. If you look real hard you can see letters 'A-F' on the short side and '1-12' on the long side.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_210259_1_zpsbljhkchy.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_210259_1_zpsbljhkchy.jpg.html)
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Once they are labeled, pull the blue lock rail up and lightly push the black wire pin lock out to release the wires from the block. I cannot stress enough how important it is to label everything first. You can disassemble it row by row to help you label each wire.
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Having done this before, I agree. Taking harnesses apart is a giant pain. On the upside, I don't have to do it so I hope your having fun lol.
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So I decided to keep the DBW and weld a lever to actuate the TV cable for the 700-r4. So I bought this should be here at the end of the week!
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Oh man, send 1 my way. My welder just crapped out like 2 weeks ago haha.
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LTZ C20 Deal I will send you one but in return I need you to send me a factory five GTM kit...!
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Finished pulling all the unnecessary wiring from the harness. I haven't taped it back up because I will be bidding as much as I can so rerouting is needed. Welder should be in tomorrow! Im going to go ahead and get all the fuel system ordered and mockup done so hopefully I can weld a run stand and fully test the engine before I start tearing into the truck.
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Nice. You got all this goin and I got a new tool cart today, 1 of them harbor freight red ones. Really nice actually.
By the way, I'm gonna pass on the new welder, 25 grand is a little steep for me at the moment lol.
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looking forward to seeing this. The Denali should have a LQ9 in it BTW...
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looking forward to seeing this. The Denali should have a LQ9 in it BTW...
I said the same thing to the guys I got it from, Justchevytrucks.com, and they swore it was an LQ4..either way its to my advantage so oh well. I'm planning out the fuel system now. Just to make sure Capt, the hardlines are 3/8 and return is 5/16 right. I'd hate to order the wrong hardline adapters.
My plan now is to keep both tanks and just remove the supply lines from the selector valve replacing it with -6 lines and fitting as well as a check valve coming from each pump. All the wiring will stay the same and the selector valve will still route the return line to the appropriate tank. I think I'm going with the ACDelco EP381 unless there's a reason not to. The fuel rail has a regulator so it should be fine since the engine requires 4bar 58psi and the pump puts out 60psi. I don't think I need a regulator.
I do have a question about engine plates. I do not want to move the transmission or cross member in either direction so will a set of plates that mount in the stock location work?
Also does anyone now where I can get the pilot bushing for the flexplate to make up the difference between it and the TQ convertor?
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My LQ4 had "LQ4" cast into the back of the block, just fyi.
Shawn
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Just ordered everything for the fuel system and the engine plate to use the factory clam shell style brackets. I'm going to go ahead and plumb the fuel lines and test them with the TBI to verify if will work and then I wil be one step closer to the swap. Hopefuly the pressure drop wont be to much if any at al for the TBI to function properly. I will likely just do one tank first just to verify.
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you aren't going to run the High pressure pump behind the tbi are you? I wouldn't.
Fuel line sizes are right, If you are running the fuel selector, you will need E85 safe high pressure hose and EFI clamps, you can't adapt a -6 fitting to it. If you are doing that, it will save you some money in fittings.
I would run 2 -6 lines and adapt the 5/16" size up on the engine side of the switch valve.
I know Justchevytrucks.com talked to them a few times.
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you aren't going to run the High pressure pump behind the tbi are you? I wouldn't.
Fuel line sizes are right, If you are running the fuel selector, you will need E85 safe high pressure hose and EFI clamps, you can't adapt a -6 fitting to it. If you are doing that, it will save you some money in fittings.
I would run 2 -6 lines and adapt the 5/16" size up on the engine side of the switch valve.
I know Justchevytrucks.com talked to them a few times.
I'm surely not running the Ep381 behind the TBI..wow that would be a mess. I'm just taking the supply lines from the selector valves and plumbing -6 lines with a check valve for each pump. The factory switch will still control the pumps and sending units. It will also control return to the appropriate tank. I don't trust the selector valve and cannot find any real specs for pressure ratings.
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Wonder what this could be...
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150316_194555_1_zpsekvlco1b.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150316_194555_1_zpsekvlco1b.jpg.html)
A new welder...can't wait to start gluing some metal!!
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That's CLEARLY a factory five GTM kit, not an Eastwood welder haha.
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Can I split the welder topic off. I am interested in seeing your review/results. I have been tempted to buy a TIG/Plasma combo...
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Can I split the welder topic off. I am interested in seeing your review/results. I have been tempted to buy a TIG/Plasma combo...
I fully plan on talking about performance of all the new toys! To start with the initial quality seems OK. Exterior panels do align as I feel they should but that gave me a chance and reason to open her up. Internally it looks like perfection. I fully intend on welding for practice and feeling out my new machine next week. I got some aluminum plates to test the spool as well. If it performs as well as the videos and review I read before buying then I can get over the exterior panels... I really want to get a TIG mostly because I have never used one and like to say "I can and I have"... Im by no means an expert and I have no shielding gas as of now but I have flux core so I will rock with that and post the beads be they good or bad.
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Got all the fuel components from kegs plus Hooker engine plates that mount in the stock location.
First order of business is exploding the harness on the engine so I can shorten and lengthen wires to mount the PCM in the TBI location. Ant some welding for relaxation in between!!
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nice buys!
i love where this is going
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Look at all the goodies!
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One transmission question. the Yukon had a 4l65e so my thoughts are that the torque converters are identical. and with the shim support on the flex plate it will line right up! Nyone know if this is true. If not I will be purchasing a kit from advance adapters. It's only $165.
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If you want wait a while and by that I mean wait until tomorrow, I'll ask the trans guy at work.
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If you want wait a while and by that I mean wait until tomorrow, I'll ask the trans guy at work.
Deal I think I can not spend money for a day...I think!?
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Round 2.. Now that I have removed all the wires and sensors that I don't need it is time to reloom the harness so that I can put the PCM above the glove box. I will be extending some and shortening others. First order of business are injectors! For this I am literally just swapping injector pigtails from one bank to the other. Cylinder 1 will now be cylinder 2, 3will be 4 and so on... Once I pull each pin I will put them back in the C1 Blue connector for its new cylinder. This way I won't have to lengthen every wire when the right bank was longer to begin with..a little swap saves me soldiering time!
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You are asking this in reference to the 700R4 right? Got a picture of the flexplate, the early 6.0L motors had a spacer already IF it had a 80E behind it, later with the 60's it was made the same.
That spacer is less than $50 if you need one.
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Ok so the torque converters are completely different. The 65e has a 300 milimeter converter and the 700 has a 298 milimeter converter. Along with having different input and turbine shafts.
The amount of upgrading you would have to do to the 700 to make it withstand the LQ4 is alot. You would basically have to put all the good stuff from the 65e into the 700, which is pointless. The 65e is a wayyyyy better transmission than the 700 anyway, PLUS your already using the computer to control the engine, as it also controls the 65e.
As Capt said, the 80e has a spacer between the crank shaft and the flexplate, the 65e does not use this spacer.
If you use the 700 behind the LQ4, your going to eat the 700 up pretty quick. It's much better to use the 65e that came behind it in the first place.
Now I know you got that welder to make a bracket for the 700 tv cable but if you use the 65e, then you can use the welder to make or modify and custom fit crossmember to support the transmission.
I have a built up 89 700 behind my 355. It cost me about 2 grand to get it high performance parts and get it built. The next time I upgrade transmissions, I'm gonna use a 80 series 4L or an allison from a diesel.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_180915_1_zpsdremqqs7.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_180915_1_zpsdremqqs7.jpg.html)
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This is the best I can get while its on the stand. Sure looks like a spacer!
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From that mess earlier to this..
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To this.. Almost done then it will be mock up. At this rate I may mount the PCM under the seat!got plenty of length.
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I showed the pics to our trans guy, he said it's hard to tell from those pics, you'll have to take it apart to find out. But being that it's a 65e, there is most likely no spacer. It doesn't really look like there is one there.
Have you decided to use the 65e or not? It would be the smart thing to do I think in this situation.
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Both left and right bank Fuel Injector wiring with the banks switched.
Can I bridge All the pink hot wires on each bank in an effort to clean it up. I plan to only have one wire from each bank using 12-10ga and solder each together and heat during for protection? Any thoughts? Mostly want to know if it will cause any interference with the injectors?
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Have you decided to use the 65e or not? It would be the smart thing to do I think in this situation.
Yes I decided that I'd use a better tranny years ago. Firmly set on a 4l80...problem, my wallet barely allowed me to get an engine. So for now I'm gonna burn what I got and when the 700-r4 quits i will hopefully be in better graces with Uncle Sam and can afford my new to me tranny. Please oh please!!!
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That appears to be a bell shaped flywheel indicating it was in front of a 4L60E. to go in front of a 700R4, you need the spacer in front of that for the torque converter if that is the case.
For the Injectors the pink wires can be bundled together.
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That appears to be a bell shaped flywheel indicating it was in front of a 4L60E. to go in front of a 700R4, you need the spacer in front of that for the torque converter if that is the case.
For the Injectors the pink wires can be bundled together.
I' sure I wil need the spacer so thanks for that. The Vin says 4L65E so you are right. From what I have researched the 4L65 is just beefier version with 5-pinion planetary and better 3-4 clutches. But the Torque convertor will bolt up without gouging out any holes? tats my real concern. I'm surely not comfortable doin that.
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the 4l65e is just a beefier upgraded version of the 4l60e, same bolt pattern etc. I'm using a 4l70e which is just another upgraded version of the 4l60e and 4l65e.
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I cut the leads and spliced all the all time hots of the injectors to a single 12ga wire. I'm also going to turn the injectors in toward the fuel rails to hid as much of the wires as I can. Left bank is complete except trimming down the plastic guides to each injector. Slowly but surely its coming along. Gotta pick up some more 12ga tomorrow and settle on some loom. I really do not want to use the corogated OE style. I like the mesh type loom.
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Looks like you are making good progress. Personally I would just wait and get the better transmission and not use the 700 at all. If your going to have to make the necessary mods to make the 700 work and then later on re-mod stuff to make the 80 work, you might as well just do all the modding ONCE. The engine came with a 65e, they are good transmissions, use it, it's cheaper than an 80. Again this is all personal opinion, I would use the 65e and put an 80 behind something with more punch than an 03 6.0. Something like an 8.1L with a supercharger or some high horse crate engine.
I'm a bit stumped tho as to what your doing with with injector wiring? Swapping pig tails and stuff? Can you explain further?
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I'm a bit stumped tho as to what your doing with with injector wiring? Swapping pig tails and stuff? Can you explain further?
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All I'm doing is giving myself the maximum amount of wire length to mount the PCM in the Cab. The PCM used to mount on the driver side fender. I intend on running it through the factory hole in the fire wall that the TBI ECM runs through. The right bank wires are a lot longer and by simply swapping them to the left I can gain several feet of wiggle room. As far as the soldering is concerned I'm simply cleaning it up a bit. Instead of having 4-16ga pink wires running from each bank I will only have 1-12ga plus PCM control wire from each bank. Hopefully this let's you into my head a little. But be warned its a weird and often Scarry place...but I like it,they know me there!
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Lol mines the same way, lots of cob webs but the spiders always smile and wave.
I get it now, for a second it sounded like the injector firing order was gonna be all backwards and then the motor wouldn't run lol I got it now tho.
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So I don't have any scrap laying around but I have this tranny jig that needed some reenforcement. Now it was first arc welded with a little CH welder someone gave me. That welder has a lot of settings Hi-Low-Off. Oh and out buddy jack was kick in out butts that night. Either way it will hold a 4L60E on a regular engine stand and makes life so much easier.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150326_131820_zpsxz6adghd.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150326_131820_zpsxz6adghd.jpg.html)
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I am not an experienced welder. I have only used a MIG a few times for some exhaust and plug welds to put quarter panel back on the bed of my old dodge. But these were the first burns. Looks like I need to slow the wire speed a bit but heat for the 1/8th plate seemed good. A lot of the second weld looks pitted because I burned through the old weld. Any experienced help would be appreciated. I'm gonna be practicing a lot. And aluminum will be the next test.
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every welder is different and according to this chart wire speed is your problem. if i was welding it i would turn the heat up a little and have a smoother pattern but that me and what works for me might not work for you.
(http://www.spartanmechanics.net/images/weave%20patterns.JPG)
(http://www.countrysidemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/welding_for_anyone-5.jpg)
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So I finnaly have felt good enough to run the fuel injector pins and swap the coil harnesses. Now I have plenty of length to mount the PCM in the cab. I will certainly have to shorten several but that will happen last. Now I will be consolidating grounds and all time hots. Then weld a run stand and pray the weather clears up enough to drop this thing in or at least work on the fuel system. It snowed for the better part of the day today so we will see.
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Going to do some measuring tonight to make sure I got plenty of room before I wrap anymore up with tape. I should be good but I want to prevent any hickups come install time BC I will likely be moving shortly after.
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I may just be over thinking but where is the oil pressure switch that completes the fuel pump circuit on the TBI, once the engine is running? It is separate from the gage sender right? I wanna keep this switch and adapt it to fit on the 6.0 to maintain the fuel system wiring. Thanks in advance...oh and pic would be nice.
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Typically it is above the oil filter.
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Thanks Cap..now I'm a little confused on what the switch actually does. Is it still controlling the fuel pump relay keeping it switched on? The diagrams that I find all suggest it supplies power straight to the pump as a simple pressure switch. But there's only one wire attached to the pressure switch. Is it grounding the relay?
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the relay will supply power to the pump to prime it for the initial stat up for a couple seconds. then the oil pressure switch will take over once the engine starts
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=28815.msg240698#msg240698
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Irish I fully understand it's purpose in the system to all respects except how it does it speaking solely of how it makes a complete circuit to power the pump.
This is what I've come up with. Normal (+) 12vdc is supplied from the dual tank switch and the relay provides a ground. On key on the pump primes for 2 seconds by way of the relay receiving ground from the ECU. Once running the pressure switch completes the circuit by grounding the pump to the block.this is the only thing that makes sense with a single wire pressure switch and a (-) body system..anything that can show me another way would be greatly appreciated. I'm gonna fluke it ASAP just to see.
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(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30539.0;attach=28691;image) (http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Fuel_Emissions/X8736_1987_GMC_Light_Duty_Truck_Fuel_and_Emissions_Including_Driveability.pdf#page=94)
click the picture for the manual if you need to
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(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/PS215/image/2/)
this is the oil pressure switch that is for the fuel pump
it is isolated from ground and is like an oil pressure controlled toggle switch; one terminal "in" and the other terminal "out."
the single terminal ones are for the gauges and light.
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/PS150/image/2/)
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/PS117/image/2/)
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Thank you very much! It makes more sense that way. Glad you picked up on me mixing up the sensor with the switch. Also if I'm not mistaken the one on the lab is in the same location. I may be wrong with that but either way I'm likely going to run both from the same area. Once again thanks.
Temps here are getting and staying in double digits so more progress will come soon.
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no problem, it took me a couple post for it to hit me as to why you mentioned the switch only having one post.
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Yeah and neither of them screw directly into the block. They both have an adapter. It's funny now that I'm asking these questions I remember explaining them to someone else. What gives. Guess my grey hair just hasn't arrived.everything else in here from joint pain to memory loss!
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Harness is ready now I stripped the engine down by removing the FED system. I color coded the bolts and took pics so I don't mix them up.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150406_165321_zps6k5lfdwj.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150406_165321_zps6k5lfdwj.jpg.html)
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I planned on pulling the trigger and start pulling the 350 TBI and make the bike my DR but this happens last night.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150409_110533_zps5jtaywkq.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150409_110533_zps5jtaywkq.jpg.html) hopefully it will clear up and spring will take effect up here soon.
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Harness question? I am trying to figure out if I need the engine run wire from the alternator and if so then what do I do with it. anyone out there have anything for me?
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150504_175301_zps46do9orw.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150504_175301_zps46do9orw.jpg.html)
Peeping one tank for now. I only picked this one because it still has the OE pump from 87 in it. I'm going to set it up and use it beside the run stand that I will hopefully be able to weld up next week. I picked up a job to repair fork seals on a Kawasaki KlR and that will fund the ECM flash and a few other small things.
Anyone out there know the answer to my previous question about the alternator wiring ?
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Nice. Don't know bout the alt wiring, not that good lol.
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Just got this in the mail today. It looks like I'm gonna be in business! The best part is the kick down tab is already on the throttle body... Got new IAC and TPS. They also included caps head screws for sensors, cable bracket, and fuel rail! I like it plus the Allen wrenches are in the bag.
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What no picture? Boo..... lol
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Loops thought I attached these..
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_131130_zpskkoqycoh.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_131130_zpskkoqycoh.jpg.html)(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_130942_zps2b2qs5bq.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_130942_zps2b2qs5bq.jpg.html)
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Sweeeeet.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150524_100646_zpsl70hyf7i.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150524_100646_zpsl70hyf7i.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150524_100655_zpshswnqttg.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150524_100655_zpshswnqttg.jpg.html)
I got the base done for the run stand. I wanted it mobile so I but wheels that were originally ment for a 2000lb tool chest. I'm sure they can handle a full assembled engine. I painted white to protect the welds mostly because the angle iron ig galvanized steel. Next will be mocking the motor over it and making mounts that will fit both engines.
Still haven't figured out what the engine on wire from the alternator is for...oopen to input.
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Nice idea for a run stand. I'm sorry I can't help with the wiring thing. Wish I could.
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So this is going to be the !ounts. I plan on boxing the plates in either on top or in the middle of the mount. I can't seem to find my other mount which aucks but I guess I will just go by a junkyard and pull another one when I get the time. I'm gonna weld the mounts together and possibly to the base tomorrow and or Tuesday.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150531_185607_zpsyu9j4oze.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150531_185607_zpsyu9j4oze.jpg.html)
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That should work.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150601_224210_zpsxkgbirqi.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150601_224210_zpsxkgbirqi.jpg.html)
One mount almost done. This shows why I keep stuff. I just gotta find one more engine side of the old style SBC mount. Plan on fabing up the other one tomorrow.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150601_224227_zpspyjalrgn.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150601_224227_zpspyjalrgn.jpg.html)
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Went to a local Metal salvage yard and found some goodies. A motor mount which is lower than the one I could fins in my shed but that's because this one is from a truck and the other is from a 1995 van. No big deal I will just cut the old one down and drill knew holes. I also picked up a tps and IAC pigtail all for free just a little bit of my time to pull it.(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_134452_zps4bhlzqvz.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_134452_zps4bhlzqvz.jpg.html)
Also got this from someone's trash pile. I plan on using the tank for my prelube tank prior to running the engine on the stand.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_143509_zpscju6ficj.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_143509_zpscju6ficj.jpg.html)
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Nice scores! I'm really enjoying your build!
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_172103_zpsxqgkx85h.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_172103_zpsxqgkx85h.jpg.html)
On the left is a mount from a 90's pickup. On the right is from a 95 express van. So I modifies the one from the van.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_181329_zpsej1mukfh.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_181329_zpsej1mukfh.jpg.html)
And next is first mockup...
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_193038_zpsndpmvdwu.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_193038_zpsndpmvdwu.jpg.html)
I also soldered I'm the IAC and TPS pigtails from the salvage yard. Harness isn't wrapped yet because I'm not making that mistake until I lay it out in the truck. But is should be good to go as soon as I finish the run stand.
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Went out and snatched the other engine mount from the metal yard because the one I cut up wouldn't line up right. I gotta work on my oiling tank and finish the stand this weekend. I'm going to go buy a new sending unit for the driver side tank but I want to get the passenger side unit because the all the tubes are longer.
Does anyone know if it will swap into the driver side tank?
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_191102_zpslrie8re4.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_191102_zpslrie8re4.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_191206_zps09vq3p5y.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_191206_zps09vq3p5y.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_200412_zpsugzvuht7.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_200412_zpsugzvuht7.jpg.html)
Got the run stand done. Just gotta finish the prelube tank, fuel system and I'm gonna use an old cooler for my radiator for now plus it will give me an idea of what the cooling system looks like.
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I'm likely gonna have to add a brace to the control stand and come to think ofnit I should have welded it to the other side so I could mount the PCM to it. Either way I'm gonna make a battery box and likely mount the PCM to that. I hope to fit fuel pressure Gage, temp Gage and oil pressure Gage in the control panel
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coming along nicely dude 8)
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150627_200822.png_zpsdruav4oj.jpeg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150627_200822.png_zpsdruav4oj.jpeg.html)
Every project here has gotten to this point at some time or another...often many times! FUNDING!! Yup this is the new pay check for OLD BLUE. It's a sentra spec v with horable excuses for engine mounts. Out of the 4 I'm going to turn the two on the driver side and passenger side into solid mounts. The current owner had problems getting all the mounts to lign up when he replaced them and worse yet he drove it several thousand miles like that. I have got all the new/old mounts aligned and bolted down except one bolt which he lost two but I had one on hand. Any idea what I should charge for my time? I will likely be replacing the struts on all four corners and adjusting the clutch switch as well.
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Ok so the project car is done and I have finally gotten to spend time on the swap. I got th we whole fuel system mocked up except the passenger fuel tank since it's still in the truck.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150831_215454.png_zps2zgzkgrx.jpeg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150831_215454.png_zps2zgzkgrx.jpeg.html)
I went with -6an line and fittings, hard line to -6 conversions one fuel filter and two fuel check valves. As I said before I will be bypassing the supply lines through the fuel tank selector but retaining the return line functions.
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I also picked up a small set of gauges from summit so let for the run stand. Still need a Tach and duel pressure though.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150906_153207_zpsqdpnsly7.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150906_153207_zpsqdpnsly7.jpg.html)
Finally got some gauges. My control panel is ready. Now I'm just tapping some new plugs to pull oil pressure and coolant temp. Fuel will be easy because the -6 'T' fitting has 1/8 not gauge port. I only have about $65 in the whole panel and hopefully these cheap gauges hold up.
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Nice!
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I rounding up the final parts for the swap and I almost overlooked one important piece!!! Exhaust... I would prefer a header but if there are any factory castings that will work and save me a little coin. Anyone have proven options. I really don't want to heat and bend a $300+ set of headers so that option is out.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150916_181625_zpsi3esofob.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150916_181625_zpsi3esofob.jpg.html)
Pre lube tank is complete. The inside of the tank is cited with an enamel engine paint that I've used on large diesels for a while now and it withstands oil and diesel f el well. I will add a simple filter inline before the oil enters the block.
I disassembled the engine more in preparation for replacing some gaskets and found that my timing cover has a small crack in it so I will be b ying a new one. Does anyone know if a cover for an LS1 will fit without clearance issues. They look the same externally. Summit has one for the 5.7l LS1 for $27. So that's what I will get if it will bolt right up.
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Ohhhh, ahhhh, fancy.
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This won't be my only LS so I wanted it to last. Plus I only have about $12 in it.
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12 dollars, impressive.
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Yup just eh inlet pipe and fill valve. Got it from home depot and used a step down bit since the tank is thin walled and not enough for pipw thread.
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That works
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How about HID's... just in the low beams for now. Got these for free and the we're brans new from a friend so I figured what the heck. A little trimming to the plastic around the bulb and they fit with a perfect seal that came with he kit.
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Ok now your just showing off haha
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150927_214959.png_zpsbsed7f1d.jpeg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150927_214959.png_zpsbsed7f1d.jpeg.html)
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Looks good! Wait till I get those lights I mentioned in my post "Modest not Outrageous Headlight Upgrade". I'll really brighten your day lol, pun intended.
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Well its been a while, a small change in venue, most of the 'honey do' list is. Complete and now its time to make that runstand earn its keep. No that it hasn't already by simply holding the engine for almost a year since I only have a small roll of wire invested in to it. I'm gonna post a few pics of updates that I've accomplished over the last week all in the name of just getting the engine running to see that my wiring paid off before I strip the engine down and replace bearings and gaskets if need be. Bearings are gonna be a definite though.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160206_191600_zpsfbmfg2zk.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160206_191600_zpsfbmfg2zk.jpg.html)
My youngest son and I did a little cleaning and prep. He removed all the could packs and we found the tip to number 1 cylinder broke. It's just the insulator that is broke so hopefully with the wire shroud in it there won't be any scatter to the valve cover.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160208_201811_zpsqqwy7i19.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160208_201811_zpsqqwy7i19.jpg.html)
I just finished modifying the old sending unit to accept -6 an fittings and line. I also got the filler pipe and valve welder to the prelube tank yesterday. I'm going to mock up the fuel system in a bucket to test the crap looking hose clamps that came with the pump. Then exhaust gaskets, prelube and fire up. I will get a video of start up until edited so if there 8s a problem maybe it will help someone else to not make the same mistake.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_140415_zpsfnafnvd7.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_140415_zpsfnafnvd7.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_140517_zpssawnoivk.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_140517_zpssawnoivk.jpg.html) Got fuel system set up. This is the exact system that will run in the truck plus another tank. The 'T' fitting has an 1/8" port for a Guage fitting that's almost worthless. The plug sits so low in the 'T' fitting that it's sure to block flow and if you use a standard fitting it will almost completely block flow soo...
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_181338_zpsxi3isvjw.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_181338_zpsxi3isvjw.jpg.html)
I modified it!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_184436_zpssgueaoss.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_184436_zpssgueaoss.jpg.html)
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Tested the fuel system today. First and second test were fails due the 'T' fitting Guage port.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160210_153209_zpsn8wrje7o.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160210_153209_zpsn8wrje7o.mp4)
Once I figured out that it wasn't the hoses leaking on the 'T' fitting I just took it out and bam...it's good to go!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160210_154944_zpsocigabjh.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160210_154944_zpsocigabjh.mp4)
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Your picks are small and fuzzy.
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cause theyre vids lol
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Or you could call them picture shows...
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picture shows with sound
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Once LTZ figures those out he's gonna love the next one. It should have a lot of sound now that my prelube tank is complete with oil filter and an air filter that has desiccant inside. I also got my Jegs order in less than 48 hours and it was on my door step! Can't beat that!
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Well they aren't playing for some reason. Videos on here usually show up the same size as pics and work. These are real small and really fuzzy and definitely aren't videos. Upload issue?
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When I click on them they open in a separate tab so check your pop-up blocker
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If your using Tapatalk, you have to follow link, not open in gallery
Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
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If your using Tapatalk, you have to follow link, not open in gallery
Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
That fixed it.
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Two best parts of those videos,
1) the butcher knife just chillin out on the gas tank and
2) the voice off camera at the end that says with a small amount of sass, "who are you talking too?". That made me laugh out loud.
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Two best parts of those videos,
1) the butcher knife just chillin out on the gas tank and
2) the voice off camera at the end that says with a small amount of sass, "who are you talking too?". That made me laugh out loud.
Rebuttal:
1) A random butcher knife is an essential tool for any shop!
2) With 4 kids one of them has to be behind on technology and that wasn't sasss... It was inquisitiveness!
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For anyone ( obviously except LTZ) who is interested in the engine...
It ran flawlessly! I had no real issues except two small fuel leaks. One was the metco adapter, and the other was the quage line adapter, both just needed half a grunt more torque Nd all is well. I got videos of perlube and two start ups plus an extra for voltage checks to ensure that alternator is doing its job. I'm get ng to upload them now so maybe sometime tomorrow night I will post them for your entertainment and criticism, whatever need be!
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Two best parts of those videos,
1) the butcher knife just chillin out on the gas tank and
2) the voice off camera at the end that says with a small amount of sass, "who are you talking too?". That made me laugh out loud.
Rebuttal:
1) A random butcher knife is an essential tool for any shop!
2) With 4 kids one of them has to be behind on technology and that wasn't sasss... It was inquisitiveness!
Counter rebuttal:
1) I will admit, among the saw blades, razor blades, pocket knifes, serrated and sharpened, pointy and high speed spinning objects I have in the garage, a butcher knife is not among them.
2) 4 kids! Man you have your hands full! I suspected sass because it had a similar tone that my girlfriend uses when she doesn't know what I'm doing. And that girl can be sassy as heck when she wants to! I do love her tho, she is supportive. I'm sure one day I will be blessed with the joy of fatherhood.
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Get you a big Knife... and good luck with having kids at some point, don't rush it.
Now for what you've all been waiting for.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.mp4)
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After investigating the water pump vapors I realized it wasn't exhaust at all just simply old coolant and water.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_165636_zpsamxiiuts.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_165636_zpsamxiiuts.mp4)
And I got power!!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_172013_zpsz4pjs8zs.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_172013_zpsz4pjs8zs.mp4)
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So far I booked up the voltmeter on the control console and I'm trying to find a radiator to check the rest of the engine before disassembly. Found one on CL from an early 2000 Silverado for $60.
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Get you a big Knife... and good luck with having kids at some point, don't rush it.
Now for what you've all been waiting for.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.mp4)
All you did here was show off that super nice air compressor you have. You didn't even run the "stupid thing". Hahaha
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The videos were good. It runs good. Open manifolds or open headers are extremely loud. Fun for about an hour, then annoying. I was wondering if I would have to say anything but I'm glad you guys moved the gas away from the hot exhaust pipes haha. That and you called yourself a retard haha, that was funny too.
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Get you a big Knife... and good luck with having kids at some point, don't rush it.
Now for what you've all been waiting for.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.mp4)
All you did here was show off that super nice air compressor you have. You didn't even run the "stupid thing". Hahaha
I didn't realize that the whole idea didn't upload. I didn't run the compressor bc it seemed like it would burst in flames if I tried again. 8 did run the engine in this video it just cut off a minuet and a half.
The videos were good. It runs good. Open manifolds or open headers are extremely loud. Fun for about an hour, then annoying. I was wondering if I would have to say anything but I'm glad you guys moved the gas away from the hot exhaust pipes haha. That and you called yourself a retard haha, that was funny too.
I don't know why I left the gas there but at least I caught it b4 I ran 8t anymore. I'm gonna see if I can get the whole video to load for the actual first run..
I got some fittings for my temp Guage and steam port so next is a radiator and more run time before I tear it down.
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A little help...so I ran the engiñe again yesterday and I noticed the cylindes 1-7 left bank are a lot hotter than the right! After just a couple of minutes of running I can hold my hand under the even bank's exhaust for ever but the odd bank is so hot I can only hold it in the exhaust for a few seconds. Any ideas what could cause this?
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Oh I also found out that I forgot to tighten the flex plate well it found me..it was a very unsettling noise!
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OK so I did some troubleshooting for the norm fuel air and spark, compression was good, air was definitely present, pulled #1 plug and it was wet with fuel, so I pulled all the right bank, none of them had any remnants of spark. Checked my green PCM connector and each coil was in the right pin location, ignition hot was just over 12vdc, so I started untaping the harness to find that the ground for the whole right bank wasn't connected to ground... Oh she sounds so much better as an 8 cylinder than a 4 banger dragging 4 dead cylinders!
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Well I should hope it runs a little better hahaha.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160229_192520_zpsauwp8xoj.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160229_192520_zpsauwp8xoj.jpg.html)
103,000 miles and still looking like a slightly dirty baby..
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160229_192530_zpshqoseu9y.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160229_192530_zpshqoseu9y.jpg.html)
Look at that cross hatch!
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Well I should have everything on its way to rebuild the 364 cui's of 'Merica power sometime this week except the harmonic balancer... It's on back order but it is said to ship by the 11th. I can't wait to have this thing fired up on the runstand!!!!
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Slight update as well...(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_120258_zpsyebvsg75.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_120258_zpsyebvsg75.jpg.html)
Engine is stripped and looking good!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111522_zpsu54mtjsa.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111522_zpsu54mtjsa.jpg.html)(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111507_zpszt6bzclo.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111507_zpszt6bzclo.jpg.html)(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111458_zpsnnpt2xgc.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111458_zpsnnpt2xgc.jpg.html)
Bearings all look good. No real issues including con rods. That's a relief!
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Just add a chain fall. ..
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160307_225001_zpsbh72lfn1.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160307_225001_zpsbh72lfn1.jpg.html)
Not the safest but it's what I had to work with. After this we lifted the 5.3 off my buddies flat bed for his jeep project that I got hooked into..I don't really mind though
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First shipment arrived today. Not bad considering I just ordered it at 1030 last night! That's one thing I like about summit. Should have the other two shipment in the next 2 days! Next will be mock up and bearing measurements using old torque to yield bolts as to not make my new ones worthless. Stage two will come and that will include all new hardware.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160315_164838_zps0pfr1ug2.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160315_164838_zps0pfr1ug2.jpg.html)
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e3???
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e3???
I wasn't going to say anything but now that you did. Unless your creating over 800 hp and drag racing, no plug will serve you better for reliability and performance than the AC Delco plugs that are supposed to be in that engine. We have seen to many issues with non factory plugs causing issues on Vortec engines. Those E3's included.
Sorry to burst your bubble but that's just the way it is. Nothing works better than Delco. If the design and engineering of E3's was that great, why isn't GM using a principle in all of their high performance engines like the 650 hp supercharged 6.2L in the ZR1 Corvette's or the 427 in the ZL1 Camaro's or any of the crate engines?
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e3???
I wasn't going to say anything but now that you did. Unless your creating over 800 hp and drag racing, no plug will serve you better for reliability and performance than the AC Delco plugs that are supposed to be in that engine. We have seen to many issues with non factory plugs causing issues on Vortec engines. Those E3's included.
Sorry to burst your bubble but that's just the way it is. Nothing works better than Delco. If the design and engineering of E3's was that great, why isn't GM using a principle in all of their high performance engines like the 650 hp supercharged 6.2L in the ZR1 Corvette's or the 427 in the ZL1 Camaro's or any of the crate engines?
I agree almost 100%. My findings on a dyno show losses from them even with high performance builds. Same with the splitfire junk and all the extra electrode trash on the market. It's just hype to steal your money.
If you are basically stock, use stock plugs. If you are built and making some power, NGK's usually do the best. Either way, don't fall for the weird electrode hype, all it does is shield the spark more and cause more problems. On an engine dyno with E3's, I had to pull 4 degrees of timing and drop 6lbs of boost to avoid predetonation compared to NGK's. Almost a 200hp loss at best, I tried different heat ranges as well. It also kept throwing codes for coil problems.
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My friend put E3's in his 79 GMC, with a mildly modified 350. Kept having miss fire issues. Finally swapped the whole set for Delco set it was done. I've used RapidFire's and had issues also, they are ok in TBI engines, horrible in carburated engines but still not that great any other time. Currently using a set of Delco plugs, don't remember the part number, no issues here.
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i remember selling them at autozone, we would get "rewards" if we sold certain things. they also used secret shoppers, if we didnt offer the products, said the greeting right, didnt offer to put the part on hold or offer the products how they wanted them to be offered we would be reprimanded in the next meeting. if we did everything the way they wanted then we would get a $20 gift card.
one of the lines i used to use while selling splitfire was "it has two electrodes, so that when one gets burnt up the spark would jump to the other. cause electric follows the path of lease resistance" then of course the little pack of spark plug anti seize. we would be rewarded to sell 20/week and who ever sold the most got another reward
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i remember selling them at autozone, we would get "rewards" if we sold certain things. they also used secret shoppers, if we didnt offer the products, said the greeting right, didnt offer to put the part on hold or offer the products how they wanted them to be offered we would be reprimanded in the next meeting. if we did everything the way they wanted then we would get a $20 gift card.
one of the lines i used to use while selling splitfire was "it has two electrodes, so that when one gets burnt up the spark would jump to the other. cause electric follows the path of lease resistance" then of course the little pack of spark plug anti seize. we would be rewarded to sell 20/week and who ever sold the most got another reward
I knew it...
As far as the E3's I've already de used to send them back and get delcos! I know better but I guess I wanted to prove it to myself at first. I'm over that. I was over it when I opened one and looked at it for the first time . I got the rest of the shipment in an I will post pics when I get a chance. Next is a ball hone cleaning and assembly! But before the swap I gotta replace the fork seals on the bike so it can be a daily driver while the aid plow is down.
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It's alright. We all get learned once in a while.
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The 03-06 had LQ9. 02 had the LQ4.
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The 03-06 had LQ9. 02 had the LQ4.
'02 is when the heads went from cast iron to aluminum. The LQ9 and LQ4 were offered in '02 and up specific "high end" vehicles like escalades also SS Silverado and other "Vortex Max" trucks starting in '03.
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The 03-06 had LQ9. 02 had the LQ4.
'02 is when the heads went from cast iron to aluminum. The LQ9 and LQ4 were offered in '02 and up specific "high end" vehicles like escalades also SS Silverado and other "Vortex Max" trucks starting in '03.
Wrong. The 99-00 LQ4 was the only gen3 to ever have iron heads. 01+ are all aluminum-headed.
01-02 Denalis and Escalades had the LQ4
The LQ9 didnt exist until the 03 model year SS, denali, escalade, and 04-06 VHO/VMAX trucks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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It's alright. We all get learned once in a while.
Well they are packed and ready to ship! Unfortunately, so are my pistons as well. As everyone should do, I was inspecting my new parts and noticed a Nick just below the #2 ringland one one piston. Doesn't sound to bad but it put a crown in the ring land and we all knows that won't work.
I'm in the parts cleaning process now and stripping the block. The machine shop wants $130 to hot tank the block.. Looks like I fixed my pressure washer just in time. Also $355 to balance. I may have to bite the bullet on that one!
Anyone in the South East GA or North Florida area know or a reputable machine shop that may rival my current pricing?
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Either way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!
I am glad you can Google though!
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Either way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!
I am glad you can Google though!
No googling necessary here. the LS motors are my first love, and I've never personally seen an LQ4 in an 03 Denali. I have seen exceptions of LQ9's in 2002s with cable throttle bodies, but not the other way around until now. And yes, the pistons and cam are the only difference. Same 317 heads.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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Either way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!
I am glad you can Google though!
No googling necessary here. the LS motors are my first love, and I've never personally seen an LQ4 in an 03 Denali. I have seen exceptions of LQ9's in 2002s with cable throttle bodies, but not the other way around until now.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
This one is originally DBW but I had to switch to connect my TV cable until I get my 4l80e or 6l80e
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FYI, this was my stock longblock LQ4 with a donkey dick cam, FAST 100 intake, and 1 7/8 headers with a X pipe.
https://youtu.be/aI7LONdWc6E
https://youtu.be/jnA9mVUywFI
The cam was really too big for the 9.4:1 compression, but the 4500 stall made up for it. I eventually switched to LS3 heads/intake with a smaller cam.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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Either way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!
I am glad you can Google though!
No googling necessary here. the LS motors are my first love, and I've never personally seen an LQ4 in an 03 Denali. I have seen exceptions of LQ9's in 2002s with cable throttle bodies, but not the other way around until now.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
This one is originally DBW but I had to switch to connect my TV cable until I get my 4l80e or 6l80e
If you can adapt to DBW, it's easier to tune and control torque tip-in(if necessary).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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Oh I know this to be a fact as well but the only way would be to adapt the TV cable to my DBW pedal and that's not a fun project so I decided DBC for now. I still have everything for DBW including the tranny harness still attached, for the future tranny swap. I really wish I could afford the keep the DBW but now everything is running fine with the PCM tune and it's still the original PCM so a few setting changes and I'm back to an 'E' transmission.
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So I went all out and got me a parts washer...well I made one from things I had lying around the garage.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160321_191255_zpsszvvruky.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160321_191255_zpsszvvruky.jpg.html)
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Redneckery at its finest!
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160322_221347_zpslvnlcgpn.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160322_221347_zpslvnlcgpn.jpg.html)
Proof is in the shinny stuff... all I did was pull these out and wipe them down..
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Bores are. Leaned up next will be cleaning the block and swapping pistons then reassembly. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can have the rotating assembly torqued in its final resting place at a very minimum. The hone I used was a little expensive but as we all know good tools produce good results and great tools great results.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232325_zpsm0k1xy9t.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232325_zpsm0k1xy9t.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232416_zpsx1yfn5cg.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232416_zpsx1yfn5cg.jpg.html)
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Despite the differential issue in the other post the 6.0L project isn't on the back burner even though I have made very little progress. I now have access to an ultrasonic sink at work. I knew it was there but didn't know if it worked so I filled it and flipped the breakers and bam! So the heads are locked up at work for cleaning and a small amount of porting, mostly just gasket matching and blending the short sides plus getting rid of that slope in the top of the cathedrals. I will likely lap the valves in as well then put it all in the sink. I need a press!!!!
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It's been a while but I have made progress. The most annoying part of all of it is I have had all the parts to complete the rebuild for a long time just lacking time. But so far I found a great machine shop to swap my pistons, install cam bearings and polish the crank. As of now I got the a complete long block plus paint.
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This was my original color scheme but I don't like it so I changed it up a bit...
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This is what it looks like now. I just uses a "Cast Aluminum" color on the heads plus the coil mounts as well but they are not in the pic. Hopefully I will be firing it up soon. Last things for the swap are Flexplate and exhaust manifolds/headers. I'm going to do the break in on the run stand so if there are any issues I can solve them before dropping it in the truck.
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looks pretty good.
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Runstand TIME!! All I'm really waiting for to start this is modifying my pre-lube tank with a true external oil filter which, I already have minus fittings. I think that cast aluminum paint for the intake was a good idea.
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Nice work!
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
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I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.
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If you want here is how to shave a truck intake
https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
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If you want here is how to shave a truck intake
https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
I've seen a few of these and thought about it but as of now I plan on running all the factory covers since I do have them. It may change later down the road but I doubt it because I do not feel like doing all that work on top of wanting the newer ls3 style heads at some point.
I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.
It was a shot in the dark for me as well. the intake looks a lot shiner than it actually is. I uses a high build sandable primer so most of the actual texture is covered up but in person it truly looks cast aluminum. I'm working on an exhaust for the runstand right now so I can hear the engine and hopefully appease my neighbors and surrounding communities.
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So I pulled all the covers out of the attic last night. I doubt I will be using all three of them if any at all. they just cover up so much and may block any possible problems. We will have to see when the engine is sitting under the hood.
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If you want here is how to shave a truck intake
https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
I've seen a few of these and thought about it but as of now I plan on running all the factory covers since I do have them. It may change later down the road but I doubt it because I do not feel like doing all that work on top of wanting the newer ls3 style heads at some point.
I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.
It was a shot in the dark for me as well. the intake looks a lot shiner than it actually is. I uses a high build sandable primer so most of the actual texture is covered up but in person it truly looks cast aluminum. I'm working on an exhaust for the runstand right now so I can hear the engine and hopefully appease my neighbors and surrounding communities.
lol oh cool.
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So I pulled all the covers out of the attic last night. I doubt I will be using all three of them if any at all. they just cover up so much and may block any possible problems. We will have to see when the engine is sitting under the hood.
which covers do you have?
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I flipped the fuel rail so the lines would be pointing forward on the passenger side to match where I had the old TBI lines
Used an ID plate I scavenged from a old coal power plant to cover up where i shaved off the box on the stock air intake tube
Don't have any pics of the fuel rail flip
You have to use a sawzall and a dremel to remove a few tabs on the intake
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170213/f082f6b1fb2e0ed4fb22a72aa6e147c0.jpg)
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I know it has been some time (a few days) since I last updated this thread. Fortunately, I did finish the engine and I though I posted a video of it running after complete assembly. I read through this thread so I would be as up to date as possible. After starting the engine I realized that I didn't do run-out on the crank. As you may guess, the snout was bent from the PO sending the frame rail and gear box into the balancer. So i got a remaned crank from Summit with appropriate bearings. That started a fire because if you remember I just started out doing a budget built and used torque to yield fasteners all around. I quickly got over that and ARP to the rescue. Studded top and bottom end, decided a new cam should make me feel better about taking it apart again. Enter the Summit SUM-8701 cam 218/227 (278/287) @.050 307/308 lift (.523/.524 1.7 R:R) 112LSA. The engine is and has been back together (for a while) and ran several times on the runstand featured in the earlier part of this thread. With the the wilder cam the PCM isn't happy once the engine gets some head in her but it sounds awesome. I will try and post a video of it running on the stand before and after the bench tune and before I stab it into the truck. Then If I can film at the DYNO I will put that up as well. I'm sure I can because it is surely free advertising! I'm sure this would go quicker if i had any help but in the last two days (working when I can) i have pulled the core support, transfer case, engine and trans. I am not going to try and post every pic I took but I will put up a link as that seems to be the best thing for my threads. It's google drive so don't worry it's a safe link. If you have any questions about what you see let me know.
**I found a way to post pics but can only load 1000 pics as of now unless i pay, which i may do. Until I make up my mind on that I will keep the google photos up to date. also there will be several photos there for my memory purposes and your reference...Enjoy! ;D
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7
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At the current end of the Photo Library you will see a few things. I'm sick and tired of throttle shifting to neutral every 4-6 years. I decided that energy suspension engine and transmission mounts were a must. Also a rebuild kit for the NP208. There's a sway bar kit from them as well but I doubt I will ever put it back on. And finally another intake Manifold. For those that are familiar with it, Trailblazer Super Sport(TBSS) intake from an '09 TBSS that I got from a coworker who swapped an LS7 in the 6.0L hole. I really want to install this because it is already in the garage and has gains over the stock truck intake as well as many high end aftermarket manifolds ( https://youtu.be/6Ejbwy0srmY ), especially for a truck and large tires. I mean look at those torque
curves plateaus. I'm obviously not building this exact engine so gains will not be that high however, if you've seen one LS dyno curve you've seen them all, just raise the the lines higher for displacement and boost. But it will require some thinking. I do not want to go to the filter regulator as with most newer cars and the easy swap method. I am a fuel rail regulated, return system kind of guy for reasons... I will check and see if the truck rails will fit the TBSS manifold. Since i have an extra set of injectors (EV6) I may decap them (for greater flow) and make or buy a harness adapter to keep the original height of the rail. Either way you will also see the 4-bolt to 3-bolt TB adapter from ICT Billet as well as a oil bypass plate with 1/8th npt. Trying the pic thing again, Can anyone see it?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764394038_a8013c5328_m.jpg)
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First thing on the list today is the ORD cross-member. There are 3 holes that have to be drilled and one rivet hole on the passenger rail that has to be enlarged to 7/16. keeping the engine mount plates loose helped to get everything lined up properly. in the pics the mount isn't tightened because it needs to be painted before final install. I used the OE hardware for mock-up so i didn't damage the self locking nuts that came with the kit.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765124271_802fe21b26_c.jpg)
Next was labeling the wiring. Most people hate this part but it's kinda relaxing to me. Plus I have to actually use m,y brain to remember what is what. I know this harness and the LS harness like I should know God's word (something in progress as well).
The only one I got hung up on was actually wrapped up in the harness. I think it was the original Smog pump wiring that I tucked away many years ago.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765124336_69cc6e667b_c.jpg)
Looking at the bulkhead connector it seems like I may have had some resistance issues!? I haven't actually inspected it thoroughly because I was summoned to get in the house.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765239407_f3a13fba76_c.jpg)
I have unwrapped all the needed wiring in the engine bay and disconnected the fuse box bulkhead connector. Next will be unpinning the power supply wires from the bulkhead connector (that power the ECM, sensors and coil), dismounting the ECM, and pulling all wiring through the firewall. I intend on putting the LQ4 PCM in the OEM location and have modified the harness to do so. My harness doesn't meet my quality standards but it is perfectly functional. I may just wrap it and keep it...or I may buy one that looks more awesomer! And just keep this as a run-stand only harness.
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Yesterday was clean up and inspection time. I though my rear main was at least a little leaky. I was wrong! it may seap a very small amount but I know this is all original so being as clean as it is is awesome.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764477193_5b06337888_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765324077_d9c6ec8d0d_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765324057_7e2c066c7a_c.jpg)
So where is all the oil coming from that's coating the top of the transmission, and driverside of the block... A little from the valve cover and oil fill cap. The oil pressure switch piping beside the Distributor has been leaking for years. Funny this same location for leaks has kicked my but on meny GM engines (any LS).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764393788_759ef238ba_c.jpg)
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Time for tool of the day.... My 1/2" drive IR cordless ratchet is always number 1... but Jegs engine dolly is good. It allows you to put the whole engine on the stand, keep it low to the ground and store it in many places. best of all it's only 2 bolts to take it down to 3 small assemblies. The front rail has nuts tacked to it so you can maintain all needed hardware (which is included) when not in use. It even clears the starter!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765323632_55aeae3488_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765208771_648cf9dd79_c.jpg)
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Originally, i thought that I was going to keep some of the OEM harness. If you think about it, there's everything you need for fuel injection. On the other hand, there will be a lot of cutting and splicing into 33+ year old wires and hacking up a perfectly good harness for a system that I intend to use on another vehicle.
I'm not keeping anything except the Key on power to the coil. I had though about using the OE fuel pump relay until i truly thought about it and realized that the relay doesn't see power at all times while the fuel pump is running. I do still like the thought of the oil pressure switch safety circuit. Not sure if I will make a way for something like that to function. So a newer style fuel pump relay will take it's place. Either way I'm going to post a few pics of the harness and the link i posted earlier will have more in-depth pics. Also, I realized that what seemed like burned plastic inside the bulkhead connector was not a resistance issue and wires getting to hot. It is just the 33 year old sealer...!! that's good!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764505903_75a427891a_c.jpg)
Here is the harness unplugged from the ECM and still connected to the Bulkhead connector for the fusebox. To the far left are the ECM connections and VSS connector then the firewall grommet and the rest of the harness.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764505918_6d09ab6636_m.jpg)
Here's what the Bulkhead connector looks like with all the TBI connections removed.
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Last night I managed to get the engine mount plates and the ORD Cross-member cleaned and painted. They look brand new..well the cross-member is..
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764450558_9b353f289c_c.jpg)
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Are you posting pics? If so I do not see them.
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Are you posting pics? If so I do not see them.
Dang.. I don't understand why I cannot get the links to work! When I do the preview it works fine and I see them as well. I'll figure it out somehow thanks Mr. Zambonie.. Oh and I'm liking your conservative choice of cams and LSA! ;)
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Ok, I may have figured it out. Going to try another pic. If this works then I will continue to do it this way. I may just use links because I have everything on google drive now and the pics don't show up in the preview but the hyper-link does. let me know if you have any problems with the links.
What I accomplished yesterday... Since i seem to go fast and never take the time to clean up and then put things up so well I cannot find them again, I fullty assembled the TBI 350 I took out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765239082_0f093cae55_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764393123_10decac690_c.jpg)
Had to figure out how to drain the trans and start inspecting it. To be honest, I have neglected this thing from day one. It has about 50k miles on this ATF and filter. But with that said.. all looks good. No huge chunks of clutch material or metal on the magnet. So what's the plan? Well build it and upgrade as strong as I am willing to afford. Transmissions are my favorite tings to rebuild, especially automatics!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765239027_325afb762c_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765123706_31d35968f2_m.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764392928_94400a26c7_m.jpg)
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Hopefully this works if so someone tell me if they can see this.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764392873_222e5cfc26_c.jpg)
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I see your most recent pic and your crossmember pic above.
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I see your most recent pic and your crossmember pic above.
Awesome...I changed the crossmember to see if it would work as well. thanks for letting me know.
I'm going to try to change every Pic i posted in this thread and maybe a few more. either way I intend to keep the Google photos link active and up to date just incase I run out of Flickr space and do not want to pay for more.
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I am a little torn between building the transmission or buying one. On one hand I really like building auto trans. Down side is it's time consuming. Also The abount of money invested to upgrade the 700r4 is not far from a new TCI rated over 650hp & tq and it comes with a warranty. I think what I will do is make a post of parts cost versus buying one... seeing in front of me may help the decision making process.
But I am not letting that slow progress. Started cleaning the NP208 in preps for cracking it open and rebuilding it. I have no real issues with the transfer case except that it was leaking from the seem, on the other hand it could have been the puke tube/vent. Either way here's some clean up pics. The second one is a little fuzzy.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50768700296_75b439e30a_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50767956688_6b5ca1510d_c.jpg)
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Your making good progress and wish I could build transmissions. Your pics are visible!
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Your making good progress and wish I could build transmissions. Your pics are visible!
Funny thing.... I couldn't until I did... Food for thought!
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Your pics are working now. So what trans are you going to run? If you're going to reseal the transfer case, keep in mind the 27/32 input spline differences. As far as rebuilding automatics, they can be a time and space suck, like me right now, I have to play the waiting game because of parts availability. I'm building a 4L80E and converting it to 4x4. There are many design changes so I had to drill the output shaft for the oiling holes, am stuck waiting for sprags and torrington bearings. Shipping is taking forever right now, and it's eating up real estate while I wait for parts. If you have the time and space, it's a good feeling to build your own but I agree on the cost/time factor with the hard parts upgrades.
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Your pics are working now. So what trans are you going to run? If you're going to reseal the transfer case, keep in mind the 27/32 input spline differences. As far as rebuilding automatics, they can be a time and space suck, like me right now, I have to play the waiting game because of parts availability. I'm building a 4L80E and converting it to 4x4. There are many design changes so I had to drill the output shaft for the oiling holes, am stuck waiting for sprags and torrington bearings. Shipping is taking forever right now, and it's eating up real estate while I wait for parts. If you have the time and space, it's a good feeling to build your own but I agree on the cost/time factor with the hard parts upgrades.
Pics...pain in my but apparently...i just had to host them somewhere different than i usually did.
My ultimate trans for this is a built 6l80E without any of that dang apply piston PWM (easy to mechanically program out). I have two NP205's that would ge a twin stock and a 203 for a doubler as well (these are my free collected parts over the last 2 years). Either way the issue is as always $$. I can feasibly afford to do the trans. The two problems are the other adapters and drive shafts. The last swap I did was an '88 yj. Went from sbc400/350/205 to 5.3l/sm465/205(twin stick). The cost of driveshafts even with the cardan joints we gave them was almost $1500. Between Novak, ORD and advanced adapters any combination you could want is possible these days.
Aside from that i'm not planning on doing anything real serious with this truck because of it's sentimental value to my wife I cannot destroy it. With that being said I cannot justify all that money for a 4 0r 6l80 swap (right now). So I will be sticking with the 700r4. I know this trans had huge potential if built right so that isn't a concern for me. the best part is most of the upgrades are GM supported (4l60/4l60e/4l65e) like 5 pinion planets, 13 vane pump rotor, hardened shafts, etc... Then with Sonnax..Dang son, you can build to the moon. At this point my parts cost is $1236.22, this price is what I conside minor upgrades. I'm not doing any upgraded input/output housings, hardened shafts or gear ration changes.
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First day of running after the bench flash by DOC at EFI Alchemy in Green Cove Springs, FL. It was a great day to get the bike out and so far the engine is running well.
https://youtu.be/-Cy4Zl-Lmeo (https://youtu.be/-Cy4Zl-Lmeo)
I ended the video but left the engine running because it it finally trying to idle. I have started it about 4-5 times and adjusted the idle to get it to this point. One of my main goals is to verify that at least fan 1 that is programmed to blue pin #42 came on and at the right temp. It's not viewed in this video but it worked the way it's supposed to work. So far I had two issues. First was completely my fault. I melted my ground wire a little bit on the exhaust but nothing is completly bare (I don't think so). The second is the vent plug on the rear of the drivers side head. Easy fix...when it's not in the truck! Stay tuned there will be more to come and be gentle on me with this youtube thing. these are my first uploads ever. I did figure out the tach signal. It was (still is) a loose crimp where my resistor does a cheap amplification of the signal so the tach can actually sense it.
https://youtu.be/_BSoEnSo4N8 (https://youtu.be/_BSoEnSo4N8)
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One more for the night... If you can't tell I'm a little excited. So the objectives tonight are:1) not disturb the neighborhood too much (so no rev's). 2) See if the engine will start without throttle input. 3) See if it will idle on it's own without me saving it with throttle...
https://youtu.be/3vNl8IQJR1g (https://youtu.be/3vNl8IQJR1g)
As you can see at least one objective was met. The camera doesn't do the engine and hand fabricated exhaust justice. IT's LOUD!
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Figured it was time to scan for pending and stored codes. Also time to take a look at live data. I thought that I fixed the tach by doing nothing. As we all know or should know that doesn't work and it is evident in the video.
I did fix the leak from the coolant block off plate on the rear of the head. I replaced the aluminum rubber impregnated gasket with an o-ring. This will likely happen to the other 3 because the sealing is much better.
If there is anything anyone wants to see just let me know and I'll record it.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu5GY0wFuQHGAqdqz0w6PSA (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu5GY0wFuQHGAqdqz0w6PSA)
I've modified this several times for anyone who noticed.. I'm trying to figure out how some people embed videos...
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Today I decided to tackle the tach issue. I have seen a lot of people post threads, videos and other randomness about just sticking a resistor in-line to the tach signal. Everyone says use this resistor or that and often times this works well however, the outcome isn't always desirable, ie., shaky or bouncing needle and cut out. Here is a way that will give you get the best resistance value for your tach and for your liking of how it functions. The first video is actually a little bit of a failure on the main objective but it lead to troubleshooting and a problem solved. I also show you how to verify the PCM is sending a tach signal. For that you will need the ability to measure millivolts.
The second video however, is after everything is fixed. I reset for the original video and accomplished what I set out to show everyone. Hopefully this helps someone, somewhere.
https://youtu.be/mWow-fculDQ (https://youtu.be/mWow-fculDQ)
https://youtu.be/xhm1c2unXMg (https://youtu.be/xhm1c2unXMg)
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Prepping the Engine to be taken off the run-stand and this time it will finally sit between the frame rails for the first time. As I look at that pic I realize that I need to do something about that idler pulley.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908411_7582379a3f_c.jpg)
Also prepped the frame rails for the crossmember and engine mount plates. I do plan on doing the rest of the rails but I wanted to get the crossmember in and leave it in so I did enough of the rails to accomplish that. I did all of this Monday and Tuesday night. I really like the way the crossmember fits. Next is mock-up of the engine...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808165933_6c0b063bfa_c.jpg)
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Unexpected but very glad I got a call Friday for all the Sonnax parts I ordered for the 700R4 and they were making a run to my neck of the woods to drop them off...Dropped off the Trans on Friday and Just picked it up today. All in I'm just under $2k including paint. Got better deals on parts through my builder. ;) Looking clean but it needs something..?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808166353_39c6c22d10_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50809023727_1d907e8a71_c.jpg)
That'll do..much better I think.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50809023697_0b0547c726_c.jpg)
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Now for the hardest part of this build. Energysuspension engine mounts. for those not familiar, theses are inserts made of polyurethane. They are a pain and I hope they last because I will not ever do it again.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50809023322_9774a52a16_c.jpg)
Here it what they looked like when I first put the engine in. The inserts expand the metal housings a good bit by design. It is no simple task getting them to lineup and bolt down, especially by yourself! Unfortunately I messed up my paint trying to get them to this point...what a pain!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908041_c3b8faf79f_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908091_9fa9cb708b_c.jpg)
It took some doing and thinking but the first mock-up is well on it's way. I tested the stock manifolds and I have pics if anyone is interested in seeing them. They actually fit rather well. The only contact is the shift rod right at the frame rail. I only mocked them up because the shorty center dump headers I bought years ago for this swap will not work. I have ditched them as an idea because I just bought Schoenfeld Headers 1302LS1 today and v-band clamps. I'm not sure if I should put some flex tubes in or not. I also got a new Griffin radiator and the AN to hard line fittings for the fuel lines up to the rail. I have decided that since I replaced the tank selector and used braided stainless EFI rated hose from tank to OE filter (I'll try and remember to post pics of this), I'm going to test it's rated pressure.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908136_083dd2e418_c.jpg)
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I've been slow on updates mainly because it's wiring time and that's boring to everyone. Unfortunately, my original desire to put the LS PCM in the stock location (above the glovebox) is not happening right now because it will not fit. The heat sinks are just to tall and I'm not cutting them off. I am retaining the wiring in a condition to do it in the future if I ever get the vintage air A/C kit. I am on hold with the wiring because the PCM will now be located on the passenger fender-well and instead of going through blades and cut off wheels I'm getting it cut out with a laser by my neighbor...hopefully today.
Aside from that, I have pulled every pin from the PCM connectors and broke the harness down into individual sensors, injector/coil banks, etc.. and started wrapping them with this loom I got off Amazon. It appears like a woven cloth loom but it's also heat shrink. So far I really like the way it looks plus my heat gun puts out 1800* and it doesn't melt instantly when I try. ;D I will upload pics when I bring my camera device in to upload.
I will also load pics of the exploded NP208 that I started tearing down. There isn't any obvious wear inside the case so that's good. One huge issue (to me, maybe not others) is the replacement bearings in the kit I bought. All of the needle bearings are right as far as will they fit and work. The issue I have are the plastic casings/retainers...! Why in the world does anyone even make those! The worst part of this plastic casing/keeper design is the two main input shaft bearings have 1/2 the amount of bearings inside the bearing case because the other half is replaced by a plastic retainer. I will not put these in my transfer case. So I bought another Kit that I was assured had no plastic casing/retainers. We'll see when it gets here.
The two in the back are the input shaft bearings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836034676_fe774bd437_m.jpg)
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Ok so I stumbled outside and managed to upload some pics. First up is the wiring harness. After unpinning everything I individually placed them on the engine to find out how I wanted to wrap them with loom. After wrapping the individual sections, i once again placed them on the engine to get the final loom on to discover that I cannot put the PCM where I wanted. So I'm patiently waiting my neighbor to tell me he is home... (I see his truck but since he uses the laser for me a lot and for free I'm holding off bugging him).
The beginning of the plan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223797_51d783c777_c.jpg)
The wiring explosion..spaghetti
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836142001_575a1249b5_c.jpg)
Here is the first mock-up with individual runs for injector/coil banks and other sensors. Once I get the PCM and Fusebox mounted I will finalize the looming process. You can barely see the Loom unless you know what to look for, that's what I like!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836273792_0c2e101485_m.jpg)
The LOOM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141991_35d81e819f_c.jpg)
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I really like the Shoenfeld Headers. They fit really well from every aspect. Granted the Drivers side O2 bung isn't going to work but everything else is spot on. I especially like the way they tuck up high and do not lay below the frame rails. The passenger side does have one issue but easily fixed. The fuel lines are rather close to the collector where they bend to connect to the OE flex lines that run up the firewall. When I finish the fuel system I will take care of that plus a heat shield for the rest of the fuel line in the frame rail.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223512_1ff619701d_m.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835414273_abab521988_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223502_b04b56fcda_m.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835431078_c088920d79_c.jpg)
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Last thing for updates and my biggest headache for the last two days... NP208. The tear down went well and nothing major or obviously wrong. The magnet did have a good bit of fine fillings on it from everything getting to know each other very well for 33 years. I haven't checked my annulus ring gear bushing for wear but I do have a lathe and micrometer if I have to replace it. Hoping the new bearings are void of plastic retainers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141911_6c8c359d90_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141961_904633ee27_c.jpg)
Ford case half empty and ready to clean up stress risers (can't help myself) and cleaning.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835414003_bb5cdde37c_c.jpg)
Maganet ain't too bad.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223617_0a46ef70a9_c.jpg)
The gear housing has a few bad threads..probably replace this.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835413978_3919785ba0_c.jpg)
I'm not sure if the minor damage on the driven gear speedo shaft input is deep enough to cause a problem but for $10 it's worth not going back in the case and potentially damaging an oring.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141826_ee20a6e8d3_c.jpg)
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Looking good. Keep at it! I just finally got my 4L80E parts in I've been waiting for. So annoying staring at parts on the bench waiting! Are you going to ceramic coat those headers?
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So annoying staring at parts on the bench waiting! Are you going to ceramic coat those headers?
Amen to that! I'm not sure if I'm going to ceramic coat them or try VHT flame proof paint. I've used it in the past on small engines and had decent results. Honestly, I've never ceramic coated anything and not sure where to go to get it done, if I can do it myself (my Definately go to option) and most importantly cost!
I do know that I will not leave them bare/temporary paint that's already on them. I want them to last. I couldn't care less about what color they end up being.
* update on the transfer case... Well in my frustration and poor lighting I jumped the gun and bought a new kit. Ultimately I lost money because the kits are exactly the same. With that being said I have to correct my earlier statement about plastic bearing retaining cages. They are a kolene steel retainer and they were updated to decrease drag an the potential binding of a full needle bearing race!
Yes I could return one of them but it was my mistake and as a God fearing Christian I cannot justify sending one of them back because of my inability to pay attention. Either way the NP208 is on the back burner because it's the 3rd to last piece of the drive train and wiring is what's on the chopping block for now. I will post pics and update that when I get a chance. Plan on making progress in that area today after I help some friends with their vehicles. One is a Kia that was hit and the other is an '85 short box that hasn't had any real maintenance done to it since the early 90's.
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Updated some photos in the google drive. When I get time I will host them and explain a little more. Didn't get much time today between working on people's stuff and people randomly stopping by.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7)
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Wiring..wiring...wiring, thats been that story for the last few weeks. I could have been done a long time ago if I didn't want to integrate as much as possible into the OE harness. I started as always by exploding the whole harness and slowly putting it in loom piece by piece.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913396482_9e1f713966_c.jpg)
Here is 90% of the harness loomed and mocked up. I still have all the PCM gtounds hanging off the alternator. Making a good ground is crucial and I didn't want to just drill into the frame or firewall. Also you will notice that the PCM isn't in the cab as I mentioned earlier. I found a suitable home for it and kept the harness long enough to put it in the cab if I ever free up room.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913265816_1752bbc68c_c.jpg)
Originally I only planned on using one relay fused relay box however things got out of hand and I ended up with two. The up side to this is all the under hood relays that I used and mounted to random (but functional) places are in a nice and secure location. Inside are (2) separate fan relays controlled by the PCM to turn off and on at different engine temps, A fuel pump relay, high and low beam relays and a few Ignition1 switching power relays. I also attached a fuse to the Tach signal amplifier in the second fused relay box. These relay boxes were relatively inexpensive and they came with all the terminal ends for each relay and ATO fuse giving me many options!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912576568_b3188c89dd_c.jpg)
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I found a source for pakard connectors and repinned my new weatherpak harnesses into the OE fusebox bulkhead fitting. The 3-wire weatherpak pictured below is for Ignition1 (white key-on power) Fuel pump (blue +12vdc) Tach signal (green). the Headlight and fan harnesses are made in the same fashion. For the headlights, they recieve switching power from the OE switch which now has a weatherpak harness to the relay and then from the relay to the lights. I added a few extra Tach signal wires to the bulkhead connection (4k ppm, 129k ppm) as backups. The 4k pulse per mile is for any decent tach I may add later and the 129k is for potential cruise control. Both of these are generated by the PCM as outputs based on the initial programming.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912576513_53a5045377_c.jpg)
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Time to take the engine back out and re-pin the inside of the fuse box as well as route a few more wires like the extra tach signals and starter solenoid switching power. That wire is easy to remember because from 1987 to at least 2003 it's still purple. Also it was time to completely re-pin the PCM... :-[ Took a little time but they all got in the right place. You will also notice my grounding issue solved with a distribution box near where the old fuel pump relay mounted. It is a 3/8" center stud with 12 smaller studs circling it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913265771_dec770e471_c.jpg)
While the engine is out it's time to investigate the rust hole below the fuse box. Aside from the two pics below there is a large hole below the grommet that the vacuum line and OE cruise control harness enters the cab.
drivers floor board
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913396427_08a59145de_m.jpg)
Drivers Kick panel
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912576463_588f5567db_c.jpg)
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I stripped most of the drivers side firewall down to make an attemp at salvaging what metal I can and patching the rust. I will likely be using pieces from the K20 to fill these gaps. Then came time to put the engine back in so I did. Took me just under 6 minuets and I took it right back out to do this...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913265731_e8a3d8ba4c_c.jpg)
I figured if I am only putting the engine in to make sure if fires and my wiring was good to go, why not put everything in I needed to do the exhaust as well. I bolted the transfer case back together (completely empty) and bolted it to the trans with the new trans mount from energy suspension.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913396337_bcdb231266_c.jpg)
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IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Below is a link to the video of the first start-up of the LQ4 in the chassis. It wasn't the first attempt however. First I had a booboo with wiring 12vdc switching power to the fuel pump relay when I knew that the PCM supplied this (unlike the fans #1 , it supplies ground). So i fixed that but still no priming. Checking for voltage drop led me to the bulkhead connector that has the black tar sealant on the contacts and then to the single wire connector that leads into the selector switch. Thankfully that was it and everything went well!
It started with open headers, no water and no alternator so I didn't run it for long. To be completely honest, the first time it fired up you hear it turn right back off and I said 'it scared me' well.... it scared me when it roared to life and I immediately turned the key off!! laugh if you must... I know I did
https://youtu.be/5dII3BJv8Mw (https://youtu.be/5dII3BJv8Mw)
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Next up will hopefully be exhaust, I have enough to do a true dual 3" and maybe a balance tube in there somewhere. Also I really want electric cutouts. The cutouts may go in at a later point and I will post pics of all my current exhaust components when I get them off the shelves and out of the boxes. I'm so freaking excited to finally be getting this done. I'm not completely set on true duals simply because of how close the passenger side will be to the transfer case and fuel lines. If I do go that route I will just make longer heat shields for the inside of the frame rails.
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Use a dual exhaust crossmember for added clearance. PS the Delphi weather pack and metri-pack kits are a must have.
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Use a dual exhaust crossmember for added clearance. PS the Delphi weather pack and metri-pack kits are a must have.
If this were a 2wd I could see using the dual exhaust crossmember. I cannot see the benefit in this application only less room to run more pipe. You know of one that will work with this and keep my passenger pipe above the frame rail?
Two things that drive me crazy are crappy connectors and open power supply buses like on a Polaris ATV. Weather pack are affordable especially when you consider the potential loss of major electronics...
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Don't discount Deutsch, either, or the Amphenol compatibles/equivalents.
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Don't discount Deutsch, either, or the Amphenol compatibles/equivalents.
True, I for one do not like re pinning amphenols but they are sturdy and seal in some very harsh environments. The Deutsche are the same style as the Computer harness and are very nice I haven't ordered any for my projects for some reason....
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It's been a while since I've been able to do anything,so I needed some motivation. Waiting on some 45* bends to hopefully finish out the exhaust.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/X7shSG2ATV2x7zfX8
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Exhaust is almost complete! H-pipe is done, mufflers aren't welded yet and I haven't made turn downs but it does sound good. I still have a little bit of work to do but hopefully it'll be done soon.
https://youtu.be/_Bi758HTkJY
When/iGotta put the gears back in the transfer case, hook up the trans kick down cablefit the radiator, put the core support back in, put torque converter in. And tidy up the wiring
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I noticed you have the transmission crossmember with the exhaust holes and you ran your exhaust above them. Is there a reason you did not run the pipes under the support through the holes. I am asking because I want a true duel exhaust system and I have a straight transmission crossmember. However, I bought one from a salvage yard like the one you have on your truck thinking I needed it for the duel exhaust, maybe I don't need to use it if I can run the exhaust above it.
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The only reason I went above the cross member is for looks. There's not a single place where you can see the exhaust without getting under the truck. I wanted to keep it high and clean. Plus if I ever take it off road to some sketchy stuff, it won't get knocked off. Originally, the driver's side was the only one designed for exhaust clearance. I figured if I could get 3" around the transfer case on the passenger side it was ment to be.
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Well, as with all projects time and money rule!
This one has mostly been time. So far I have rebuilt the transfer case. Including making a annulus bearing remover using the lathe and turning down a outer front wheel bearing race.
Engine and trans are back out for rust repair (this begins the snowball effect). Steering/Brake booster brace is removed.
Vintage air kit has fully arrived.
I'll post pics of everything when I figure out how to do it with my phone because I don't use any computers.
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Thanks for the updates Frost! 8)
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Fully rebuilt NP208. I haven't decided if I am going to paint it yet. If I do it will be the same blue as the engine and trans.
Let me know if ya'll think I should paint before final install.
I broke down and got out the old laptop...surprised it even works.
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Started rust repair. First it was time to clean up the firewall and check out the damages. I started with scrapers and razor blades to get off as much as possible or at least thin it out where I could. For the really thick spots a wire wheel on a grinder got it manageable. Then acetone and a greenie got it ready for a real inspection.
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For a while I debated on fixing the drivers side from the inside but I broke down and removed the steering/brake master cylinder firewall brace. From here it was a a very quick reminder that trying to do multiple compound shapes in one piece of metal isn't a good or easy idea. So I did the first repair in 3 pieces.
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Continuing on, I already knew that there was a good rust spot in the lower part of the cowl. I filled it in with some good weld years ago, the JB type. The cleaning revealed another hole in the cowl above the blower fan. After cutting that section out and seeing how much rust was nesting in the seam sealer, I decided to take it further and removed the entire lower pinch weld of the cowl on the passenger side to reveal...you guessed it, more rust.
The likely scenario will be removing it all the way across repairing the cowl and the firewall behind it as needed.
The last pic is the firewall behind the cowl cleaned up with a wire wheel on a grinder. Which reveals more holes...YAY :-[
I'm not sure if I will be cutting these out or just welding up the holes and dressing them down. This is mostly due to time... the first three patch panels I fabricated (just using simple hand tools, took several hours) factor into this equation.
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I have no idea how long ago I ordered this but the Vintage Air Kit finally arrived. I have seen these kits in trucks and cars before. It looks real nice and surely a huge upgrade. The only concern I have is the condenser appears a good bit smaller than the OEM. Either way I'm a good way from installing or even mocking it up. I will research for now and make a decision later. What I do know about the kit is that I do not like the firewall plate. At first, just seeing it online, I thought maybe it wont look that bad....wrong. No worries I do not plan on using it (at least on the outside) for now, nor do I have plans to route the hoses in the recommended locations. When I get to that point I'll let everyone in on my idea.
The pics for the compressor were thankfully though of before I took the engine and trans back out for rust repair. I do like the way the ICT Billet compressor brackets look and hold the compressor. I did run into the problem of having to find a new place for the PCM. This isn't really a big issue since my original plans were to put it in the cab and the new AC system should give me room. However, I am contemplating a more superior fuel management system and TERMINATE ( ;)) the OE system.
Current decision... to remove cab or not.
Pros:
1) Its hurricane season here in southeast Ga
2)The garage, though not cooled, is still more comfortable
3) I already have new body mounts so they are coming off anyway
4) More environment control for welding and painting.
Cons:
1) Taking the cab off
2) Bigger snowball, i.e. cab corners get mighty tempting!
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IF you pull it apart STAY focused to get it back together! It is easy to be distracted when you just have piles of parts laying around.. I am guilty of this...
Nice progress BTW!
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Oh boy don't I know that. It's another con I didn't list. The refer and new piles are getting big. I had to buy a project shelf. Its hard when I don't have some order.
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That's one of biggest fears, since my health isn't the greatest, getting it all apart, and being physically (or psychologically) unable to put it back together.
Stay focused, and bring that baby back to life!
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It is easy to be distracted when you just have piles of parts laying around.. I am guilty of this...
Who isn't? ;D
As all of you noted, parts piles can grow in disarray to the point of being disruptive to progress, eventually making a project unconfrontable if only because of the sheer number of things to be done. And then there is the, "I'm sure I bought one of those! Where is it?" Staying focused and making steady progress as materials arrive in a planned and organized sequence is crucial to avoiding project anxiety and enjoying completion while one is still interested and able. If you have a spouse... Well... Let's just say a lot of time can be consumed explaining the delays....
So, take it from yet another who is guilty. ::)
I agree. Nice progress! Keep on truckin'. ;)
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Due to a lot of family things I've been real slow in making progress. I'm at the point where I'm likely going to patch the last part of the cowl, slap the drive train back in and drive to help motivate me.
I have fixed the firewall below the fuse box bulkhead connection. Also the few spots I found behind the cowl. There's still some grinding to dress down the welds and a few spot welds left.
The pic between the heater core penetrations and blower fan explains a lot about the water in the passenger floorboard and passenger kick panel rot. Didn't know that was there .
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Sent from my motorola one 5G UW using Tapatalk
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Tool of the day for this project. The Blair spot weld cutter. At first glance my thoughts were, " idk if I wanna drill a hole all the way through each spot weld". Well after braking 4-5 double sided harbor freight spot weld cutters I said what the heck, might as well try.
The tool is amazing...the angle of cutter on the centering bit needs good pressure to cut and since it is spring loaded theses no straight through holes! I added a link for those in need
In the pic you can see my floorboard watering hole a lot better. And where the metal was to thin for my Miller Matic 211 to glue holes back together.
Blair 11096 Cutter Set, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5HK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/e6cc52840c5c2008568a2fe5136253c5.jpg)
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I've been tossing the idea around about the tacky plate that came with the Vintage Air kit. I really don't like it. I was planning on going through the old blower fan hole with all 4 lines(a/c, heater hose supply and return). The plan is to fabricate a plate, drill holes and insert grommets. Any thoughts?
The plate would cover the whole outline. All old holes will be filled with patch panels. The only exception will be the huge hole for the a/c evaporator. I'm thinking a two piece panel that's removal for easy access to the back side of the air box. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211105/5b29e22c7889132b47a6e13e2d33f34f.jpg)
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I had to do about the same rust repair on my firewall and just completed the Vintage Air Gen IV installation with the exception of some of the wiring. I used their cover plate on my firewall after I painted it to match and installed it to the installation instructions. Had to do some work to the radiator support for better line routing.
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I remember seeing yours and it looks good. It just bigs me to no end that all those holes are just chilling back there. I truly appreciate all the old things these trucks have/had buy the ac/heater box has never been one of them.
Hiding all these holes and drilling new ones seems criminal to me. I truly get the point of making a retrofit item that anyone can install.
To me it reminds me of old 90 "kit cars" where you get a can, glue some pieces to it and call it something it ain't.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211105/b68ad2c08bf2e3ee8148403e6cfbec53.jpg)
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The A/C Firewall panel actually uses most of the old holes with the exception of a few. But it could probably be improved. Did you paint your transfer case or leave it bare. I like it bare, but would also look good painted. Either way would be good. Your truck is looking good.
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I do realize that it's not a lot of holes but when you take into account the holes that won't be used it's a lot in 18gage sheet metal. I just don't like the though of putting a cover over the water lines and evaporator holes just to make more. I may change my mind but it's not likely. It's not like I'll ever go back to OEM air box.
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If I had thought about installing the after market A/C system prior to my firewall sheet metal work, I would have put the Vintage Air Firewall cover plate on and then from the inside of the cab mark the firewall holes on the cover plate, cut out the patch panels, and then butt welded them in. Then weld the holes not needed up. It would have been better I think. So it's a good idea what you have and should look good.
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Yeah, that's a lot of backtracking to do anything about it now. I've settled on filling the holes for sure. Im going to make a template of all the holes fro my son's truck since I'm sure it only has heat. Haven't decided on if I'm going to cut the evaporator flange out or just patch it as is. Taking it out will give me the perfect for for my son's truck using my old air box.
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Looks good. Fwiw, we cut out the firewall, welded in the plate from old air aftermarket ac.
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Got a pic of that? Or link to it?
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Hi here's the initial fit and after he was done.
Mark(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211118/02b7c8ebf9e1a8901a9098672e4dea04.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211118/e4bfca494e2d34ba7ebe5032457896b6.jpg)
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Good work and nice results.
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Looks good!
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I'll have to weigh that idea with my original of just patching holes. I do like it and initially considered it.
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I haven't made any progress on the truck but I did add to the parts pile.
Holley Terminator X Fuel Injection system is now on the shelf and awaiting it's debut...not sure when that time will come. ::)
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Finally made progress. Had to open this up a little more to repair the splash guard in side the box. I was just going to leave it but the risk of water splashing everywhere in the box isn't worth it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/d11b594bfce1c7f5f523b8aaf86f34d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/22da3509d248663d63af71a6e27574db.jpg)
Next is cowl repair. I decided not to recreate the seam between the box and cowl.
If there's any tips to give then it will be:
1) Cut out whatever has to go to get rid of bad metal.
2) Reshape your opening to make simple shapes. This makes it easier to fabricate patch panels.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/4625b617b8ee21540970ab3859968a01.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/6322571788a5040ffbb6d86e86e4bc3a.jpg)
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More cowl progress.
Currently, only the air box for the fan is sealed with Seamor's rubberized truck bed coating. It was a hidden test and I like it so the inside of the cowl will be sealed the same way after removing the old seam sealer and some rust converter. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/0333d2361d45e2e5c08a93a510c59bc4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/c407e86e00117e0b44ac282f6ff3b42a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/b7ca56d06c561cbfe837f3a6be08954b.jpg)
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Nice work!
Mark
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So the weather here is normal and cold (for us) and wet. So I worked in the garage. It was time to replace the last thing in the engine that have 103k miles on them. Lifters
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/59f4d6090fd779a3724ecf43975260c3.jpg)
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I guess these next few pics show my decision on the Vintage Air plate that came with the kit. Holes will be! filled.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/63978062727c42f420ec93d0880c1701.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/0f1d4bb8deb43a3fcfa56a09979eb0a5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/60edc54e25b10210a464730eef87376d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/aaf1169bb36ecc2f62e091ed607aea13.jpg)
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Nice progress. Someday I'll learn to weld as good.
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Nice progress. Someday I'll learn to weld as good.
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Let's be careful with the words we choose,"good" let's replace that with acceptable. And for those that do weld I'm an amazing grinder. ;D
However, thank you! I just got motivation back to start working again and it's not easy. I think at this point I'm going to get the firewall good, put the engine in and get some miles on it. Will call them motivational miles. I'm going to need some motivation to want to do any more rust repair on anything at this point.
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Got one more panel mocked up and almost prepped for welding. I left the flange in for some rigidity plus the kit uses it as spacing. Gotta take it slow on this one. Lots of weld, heat and potential for warpage.
*Up for debate is the blower fan hole...not sure it I'm going to make a removable plate or weld a patch in.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220126/8245b8fed45b22803bd8585d329889c8.jpg)
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Use a lid from a large pickle jar............Leave the label! ;D
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That's a 'gettin-by' kinda solution. Something I'd do in the Blazer since it's s toy. Definitely not for my daily. 😆
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Use a lid from a large pickle jar............Leave the label! ;D
Does dill or sweet make a difference? ;D
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Mad good progress today. I'm not sure if I already said this but just in case. I'm working toward just getting the engine, trans, x-case and everything to just drive. I NEED SOME MOTIVATION TO KEEP GOING! :(
Got the brake/steering brace tacked back in. Also to help protect against corrosion I coded the back side of the brace and everything outside of the welding zone with the same Seymour's rubberized truck coating, prior to welding everything.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220219/a386f3aef4da1eec56b0c688e7dac6ed.jpg)
I also got more done on the firewall. Had some grinding to do some more tack welds some more pretty and up to do however, most of that's going to wait. I do plan on putting seam sealer in the cowl to make sure all my work doesn't go down the drain!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220219/3a9124d5385b8fcc262b05345eb662bb.jpg)
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More progress on the firewall. Baby steps as always. I'm finishing up another LS swap for a friend ($$), then I'll be hitting this project hard.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221120/c0ea34ad8538013fdd6414891239c855.jpg)
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Finally got the best help ever! Beginning of the best part of the project. I've been trying to get my wife into helping me for almost 20years!! It finally that time.
FYI, it has already paid off. Not just in our bonding but also in tools! "Is there an easier way to do this", she asks... Then a new tool shows up. Got a hose crimper today.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221120/401c48b3d389dfa022b7d119204ddd40.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221120/d85f6d68a341b6c3b26bcbd7185d24cc.jpg)
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Nice progress, tried to send you some motivating shots, too large, trying again... ;)
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The beadlock crimping tool is worth it if you do any custom stuff, you can buy a nice assortment on eBay with different size pressure hoses, and you get a nice factory look.
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Well as always, it's been a while so update time. Unfortunately I'm not on the road year but definitely getting closer. Getting old sucks last I left y'all I needed to make the TBSS intake look a little better. Ended up in the same cast aluminum color as the other manifold. Added Holley fuel rails and Deatschwerks injectors...
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Engine with Transmission (permanently this time), FEAD, wiring and fuel system. I made a mount for the Terminator that uses the throttle pedal mount. I don't like the factory location of the alternator and power steering pump but I already spent the money so it's likely staying for the time being.
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Core support was ok but since I apparently haven't had this truck off the road long enough, it wasn't good enough. Now it is...
Vintage Air condenser is in and a late 90's radiator are mounted and looking good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/57dea6f4a9088df4986aedec752d2b95.jpg)
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I had planned on using more time I don't have, fixing the original inner fenders...got over that as soon as I saw how cheap they are. I'm not sure if the fenders and inners are on permanently but dang it looks and feels good to be this far along, finally!
Found the quick connect hose barb for the back of the manifold for brakes (not pulling the trigger on hydro boost just yet, still have it but I'm fabed out for now) .
Lastly, the transfer-case is in, as of an hour ago.
Once the drive shafts are in I'll put trans fluid in everything and do the first fire up with the Holley.
From there a few I/O's to be wired, headlight buckets painted, and shift linkages.
*Speaking of shift linkage... Any suggestions for the trans. I really want to use a cable because the shoenfeld long tubes are a little tight on the OEM linkage. What length and adapter plates are the easiest, even off brands are welcome!!! Eyes cheap!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/21de0c8e17946f1c6af387751a11b14a.jpg)
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Gorgeous man!
I'm finally getting back on my '80 C10- Feels Good!
Got you on the 'getting old' part...hard to get up off the creeper ::)
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Got you on the 'getting old' part...hard to get up off the creeper ::)
I only use the creeper to push tools and large parts under the truck! Pro Tip... Don't lay on it, it's a trap!
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Got the radiator hoses figured out. Haven't installed the lower one yet but I will when I take off the fenders again.
Also got the intake routed. Just gotta fab up a mount and a box.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230228/38f1ed9d892080635e98600572d2cd0c.jpg)
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For those who wonder why this takes so long...hers two pics of the reason you won't see any updates for a while.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230328/189d7ab4fdda95524e3046c100f15064.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230328/ab679d0f02f232c95155b0a01af195d2.jpg)
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