Author Topic: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?  (Read 31852 times)

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2009, 11:05:59 PM »
So I bought the one from the local vendor. It was on Ebay but I won it for $228.50 USD. It's an older OEM Eaton and fully rebuilt with new bearings and steel clutches, not the carbon ones. But that's not so bad. It's a heck of a lot better than the non-functioning Gov-lok I have. New Eatons from them are $599 CDN  :o I get it put in on the 8th :)
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline team39763

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #16 on: June 27, 2009, 09:21:25 AM »
Sounds like a good deal.  I wonder if you could upgrade to carbon clutches later?

Online Captkaos

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2009, 01:55:25 PM »
Yes you can get the better clutches later.  You can pretty much get everything for these now.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2009, 01:27:56 PM »
Yeah, they said it would be $120 for the rebuild kit and an hour's labor. Sounds good to me! I'll do that if and when I need to. Woohoo! Come Wednesday, no more 1-tire fire!
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline The dream

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #19 on: July 08, 2009, 12:02:34 PM »
good luck... you must be working on your truck right now.  ;D
Never give up.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #20 on: July 08, 2009, 09:49:04 PM »
Well, 'I' wasn't, but 'they' were   lol   Picked it up today. $850-ish in parts and labor quote turned into $1200 after tax, $230 in new axle bearings, diff bearings and a u-joint.  :-\  Ah well, at least everything in there is fresh now. I still have that pulsating vibe I feel through the floor and not the wheel. They said the axles looked good though so I dunno. Guy suggested maybe pinion angle. I haven't really had a chance to test out my new posi as it was wet out and I had my daughter with me and wife following me, but come Friday, it's track day :)

lol Dude who road tested my truck said it was scary to drive and I really need to be careful. Too powerful he says. My truck ain't all that powerful but I guess on the wet roads, it gets a little squirrely.

Oh yeah, so the Gov-lok was totally pooched. It was seized enough that they had to torch it out. He showed me stripped and broken teeth and a broken cross pin that prevented the unit from doing anything except just spinning around in the diff. Then he just tossed it in the trash can and said "that's what we do with these"  lol
« Last Edit: July 08, 2009, 10:03:49 PM by SUX2BU99 »
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #21 on: July 11, 2009, 06:40:57 PM »
Ugh  >:(

Drove my truck to the store today with my daughter. Got straight on an even nice road and ran it up through 1st and 2nd. Back off the gas and WHHHHRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.   :o   So on throttle I get lots of noise and howl with the occasional scraping sound that comes in and out. Not sure what this could be now. I know of a guy who had his diff serviced some years back and he went on a long road trip up here to Canada. On his way back from Whistler, lots of noise starting coming from the diff. Turns out the shop didn't fill his diff with fluid! Sound didn't start right away though.

I have no idea what this issue is. I'm worried the shop that did the work is going to give me flak and try to weasle out of fixing it for no cost.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #22 on: July 12, 2009, 07:42:46 AM »
Check the fluid level and see if they filled it. Sounds like you have some hacks. Fins a driveline specialty shop.
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Offline fitz

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #23 on: July 12, 2009, 08:34:52 AM »
Check the fluid level and see if they filled it. Sounds like you have some hacks. Fins a driveline specialty shop.

I just bought an Eaton posi unit and it came with a bottle of Ford Motorsport Posi Additive. I noticed you bought a rebuilt posi unit off ebay, did it come with the additive?
I had mine installed with new Yukon gears and Timken bearings. It's as quiet as can be, you would never know it was modified until you jump on it and see the smoke from the 35"s.
I hate to be the one to say it but I think you have some other issues going on as far as the install goes. I would do something about it quick before you start chewing up some expensive parts.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2009, 12:30:54 PM by fitz »

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #24 on: July 12, 2009, 10:48:10 AM »
Thanks guys. I DID go to a specialty differential shop. It's called "Rear Ends Only". They've been around doing just diffs for almost 25 years. I'm stunned this has happened. What's the best way to check it, except by dumping all the fluid out? Open up the fill plug and see if the fluid is up to the leve of where the plug is?

I don't know why, but I just have this sinking feeling they are going to try and weasle out of fixing anything because they think I abused it somehow. I did tell them before I bought the unit that I drag race my truck occasionally and how fast my truck is. They said the unit should be fine for my application and didn't express any concern whatsoever about it not being strong enough. Maybe something just failed, which happens sometimes but that shouldn't cost me a dime. THEY rebuilt the unit in their own shop, THEY installed it (with their own fluids they recommended) and I also bucked up for new axle and diff bearings. Nothing really can be blamed on anything old or not something they provided. They told me the ring and pinion looked good and so did the axles.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #25 on: July 14, 2009, 01:28:50 AM »
So I phoned today and the guy I dealt with when I got the work done was surprised obviously to hear that this happened. He said to bring it in right away. I live 60 miles or so away so it's not exactly down the street and they won't pay for a tow. I explained I don't want to burn up my ring and pinion bringing it down there since I won't be paying for that to be fixed. He said to just take it slow and easy but to get it somehow to there shop. Blah. That's one reason I guess on why a person should shop locally!

I asked him if I should check the fluid and he said sure, and check to see if the fluid is black or has shavings in it my dipping my finger in thru the fill plug. I pulled the plug and fluid immediately came out so I know it's full and it wasn't discolored at all. No shavings that I could tell by dipping my finger in thru the hole but it's rather small too. We'll see what happens when I get it down there. It's gonna be a loooooong drive doing about 35-40 MPH on the backroads.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #26 on: July 14, 2009, 04:53:27 AM »
Are the u-joints ok? U-joint straps tight? Did you get under there and wiggle things around?
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Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #27 on: July 14, 2009, 10:27:20 AM »
I did and it all seemed tight. I tried moving the driveshaft up and down at the rear u-joint (which was replaced) and it was tight. I put it in neutral and turned a tire and the other moved in the same direction and no strange sounds but then the noises are quiet until about 35 MPH anyway.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline The dream

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #28 on: July 14, 2009, 11:51:01 AM »
It sounds like a nightmare.  :o
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Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?
« Reply #29 on: July 14, 2009, 06:23:20 PM »
Yeah it's going to really suck getting it there but they had their hands on everything in there, so I can't really see how anything other than what they did, touched or replaced would be to blame, so therefore at their cost.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.