My '77 K-30/V3500 Monster Truck Build

[bigandrich22]

oh man your really should leave the old 77 front clip on it..they look so much better then the 80s especially the styles like the 91 you talk about but thats my opinion

[JohnnyCanuck]

oh man your really should leave the old 77 front clip on it..they look so much better then the 80s especially the styles like the 91 you talk about but thats my opinion

x2

[SMiller]

Blue granite is a nice color! Why is the 427 better then the 454? What are you thinking for HP? I have went to 3 indoor truck pulls this winter, sure would like to have one!

Are you going to run any exhaust? I have seen more and more trucks with header mounted mufflers for street classes and the sound is so much better, so much more of a toned sound, also allows you to run more local fairs that wont allow open headers.

[Engineer]

Sorry guys, the 73~80 square front is out.

First off, I can't find any rust free 73~80 front end GM parts. Aftermarket, yes, but no originals. Secondly, there are gobs of 73~80 truck pullers, and tons of 81~87 pullers as well. Where I will be pulling, there are no 89~91 V35 trucks, so mine will be the only one. Lastly, been doing the '77 thing for 25 years now, time for a total change. If I had done a factory resto, then yes, I would keep the 77 front, and white paint, but since my truck stopped being a 1977 Chevy K10 almost from the first day I had it, I don't see a need to develop a sense of nostalgia by keeping it anywhere close to it's old self.

SMiller- I plan on running about 2' of exhaust. Just enough so that any black carbon isn't blown onto my transfer case. I LOVE the sound of a Big Fat Momma Chevy with open headers, at 7,000+ RPM. That, and add the fact that a little extra collector should add enough backpresssure to enhance the engine's torque output. The class I will be pulling in is considered "modified street". Some places allow you to run your exhaust up through the hood. I wont do that. Not for now atleast.

Basically a "modified street" pull truck is limited to a factory style engine block with a factory, unmodified frame, a full cab with sheet metal body panels, DOT tires, and a 1-ton front axle. Anything else is fair game. There are limits on engine cubic inches, and overall weights, and measurements, but as far as a "stock" truck, there isn't much left to compare it to.

Also, the 427 truck block has a .400" taller deck height than a 454. This allows you to run a longer connecting rod than with the shorter 454 block. Since I am limited to 485ci, I have to make power by other means, and RPM is one of them. The longer connecting rod allows for more HP at higher RPM through a more optimal rod ratio.

My 454 (actual 461ci) makes about 550HP. I hope to make 700+ with the 427TD (actual will be 485ci + 1%) build-up.

[hahny115]

What all did you do to your 205? I am in the process of rebuilding my th400 and 205 combo for my pulling truck.

[Engineer]

What all did you do to your 205? I am in the process of rebuilding my th400 and 205 combo for my pulling truck.

I replaced the stock rear output shaft with an HD unit from JB conversions. Same 32 spline as stock, but it has upgraded oil channels. I then bought an upgraded Spicer 1410 yoke for the rear output.

I replaced the stock 30 spline front output shaft also with a 32 spline unit so that I can run my stock 1350 Spicer yoke on the front shaft which replaces the weak stock saginaw CV joint. I believe JB conversions sells the 32 spline front as well, or you can salvage a front output from a Furd or Dogde 205 if you can find one of those.

I also had a retaining collar made to replace the low gear snap ring on the rear output shaft. These have a nasty tendancy to spread the snap ring, and this lets the gear walk backwards, thus destroying the case.

Here is the new rear output shaft with the custom collar installed, and oil feed grooves machined into the collar to allow oil flow to the input/output pilot bearing:



I also installed a set of HD bearing/seal retainers. I bought mine from northwestfab.com. THIS is also a must, because the stockers break with the rearward thrust of the output shaft. YOU WANT these items listed in this picture. Talk to Kris, he is a really cool guy, and easy to deal with. You may even get the 32 spline rear output shaft from him.

The cool thing about this retainer is the extra holes that allow you to mount your u-joint cover loops that most pulling organizations require.



I also inspected all of my bearings, which were new from a previous rebuild, and replaced all of my seals, and gaskets.

Additionally, you will want to take out enough shims from the idler shaft to remove all endplay from the tapered roller bearings, and leave it with some preload on those bearings. I am not going to drive my truck on the street, so a little too much drag on those bearings is not an issue for me. End thrust is, so eliminating all endplay is essential. You may not want to preload too much if you will be driving it on the street. Too much preload will burn up the bearings.

[Andcryr1]

Sweet Build!  Really like the home made sand blaster idea. Going to build me one too. One quick (may sound stupid) question. Did you just use regular beach sand you can get at any home improvement store to fill the tank with?

[Engineer]

Sweet Build!  Really like the home made sand blaster idea. Going to build me one too. One quick (may sound stupid) question. Did you just use regular beach sand you can get at any home improvement store to fill the tank with?

I buy medium, and sometimes fine silica (depending on the job) sand from a local brick, and masonry dealer.

It comes in 75# bags. The silica I buy has been cleaned. Using river, or beach sand has many impurities, namely salt which can get rust started immediately after your sand blast job. I do know of some people that use screened creek sand. I tried it, but gave it up since it was too much trouble.

Also, if you use silica, make sure to wear a respirator. Breathing the dust does irreversible damage to your lungs.

[78 Chevyrado]

This is a very interesting build!  I can't wait to see more, and it all looks top notch man! 

[Andcryr1]

Sweet Build!  Really like the home made sand blaster idea. Going to build me one too. One quick (may sound stupid) question. Did you just use regular beach sand you can get at any home improvement store to fill the tank with?

I buy medium, and sometimes fine silica (depending on the job) sand from a local brick, and masonry dealer.

It comes in 75# bags. The silica I buy has been cleaned. Using river, or beach sand has many impurities, namely salt which can get rust started immediately after your sand blast job. I do know of some people that use screened creek sand. I tried it, but gave it up since it was too much trouble.

Also, if you use silica, make sure to wear a respirator. Breathing the dust does irreversible damage to your lungs.

So what do you do with the sand on the ground after you've shot it through the blaster?

[Engineer]

I just watch the rain carry it away.

I tried to reclaim some of it one time, but as cheap as I buy the sand, it is easier to buy more.

[Engineer]

FINALLY, rollin rollin rollin.......



How about those 2002 HD truck center caps. Sexy huh? 


Got rid of the old 1990s era saw blade wheels, and upgraded to a set made for this century. M/T Classic II knock offs....


Wheel on the left is before the restoration process. Wheel on right is during. The old wheels were 16.5x9.75. The new wheels are 16.5x12. I wasn't sure how I would like having a 12.50" section width tire on a 12" wheel.....Normally something like that looks stupid with it's bulged side walls, but in this case I am loving 'em. The wider width should also help to put more of the tread surface in contact with the track for better traction.

......Hope to set the radiator support on this week, and put the radiator in. I need to sand blast, and paint my front driveshaft, exhaust pipes, and some other misc parts then they can go on. After these things are done I will start the cab. That is going to be a chore.

After the cab is set on, and completed, I want to rebuild the front weight bracket. The front weight bracket will hold the fuel tank, and the battery. At that point the truck should be driveable, then I can finish the rest of the sheet metal.

[dmoffat]

I'm subscribing.  Looks awesome so far, I like that you're going to use a slightly newer body style, everyone uses an older truck.  Change is good.  Good luck.

[big bear]

very cool

[Engineer]

Not much to report, just some minor details that are very labor intensive.

Man, the man hours that I am racking up. It seems even the simplest of details take forever to meet my standards.

New 1350 front shaft with u-bolt style yokes. No more CV joint to risk breaking.

Check out that convoluted red dust bootie....



Got the radiator support painted, and most of the bolt-ons for the radiator support back on. I am going to buy new headlights, and marker lights....even though they will never be hooked up. The old ones are foggy, and I want crystal clear ones. Everything else is new on the '91 V3500 front, the lights should be as well.



Got the radiator back in. The radiator is out of a 1989 K1500 that I used to own. The C/K series radiator fits the R/V radiator support like a charm using mounts from a 1985 C30. LOL! You just have to love Chevrolet engineering. Everything interchanges even over model year, and truck model changes.

The plastic/aluminum 1989 K1500 radiator is from a manual transmission truck, so I don't have the auto tranny cooler in the passenger tank to clutter things up. The 1989 K1500 radiator is much lighter, and only slightly smaller than the OE brass 4-core radiator that came factory in my '77.